Totally Med: exploring Menton, where the French and Italian rivieras meet

This golden hue extends beyond the town’s facades, permeating its culture, its cuisine, and its annual calendar. Late February and March are affectionately termed "yellow time" by locals, a period when the hillsides erupt with the sunny blooms of daffodils and fragrant mimosa, perfectly mirroring the peak harvest season of the region’s signature citrus. It is also the time when Menton truly shines, hosting the globally renowned Fête du Citron (Lemon Festival), an event that has captivated visitors for 92 iterations. This spectacular two-week festival transforms the town into a fantastical realm, featuring vibrant parades, elaborate floats, and colossal sculptures – this year showcasing a magnificent whale, towering 12-meter-high parrots, and gracefully entwined storks – all meticulously crafted from hundreds of thousands of citrus fruits. While the Menton lemon itself, with its protected geographical indication (IGP) status, remains too precious and rare for such large-scale public display, the festival pragmatically sources its impressive 123 tonnes of oranges and lemons primarily from Spain and Portugal, ensuring the visual spectacle continues unabated.

The heart of Menton’s lemon legacy lies in its exceptional microclimate. Sheltered by the Alpes-Maritimes mountains to the north, which block cold winds, and warmed by the Mediterranean Sea, Menton enjoys remarkably mild, frost-free winters. Coupled with its terraced hillsides, meticulously cultivated over generations, and the sandy, well-draining soil, these conditions create an unparalleled terroir for citrus cultivation. It is within this unique environment that the Menton lemon thrives, developing characteristics that distinguish it from its global counterparts. Mauro Colagreco, the visionary chef behind the world-renowned Mirazur restaurant – a three-Michelin-starred establishment consistently ranked among the world’s best, located just a few steps from the Italian border – is a passionate advocate for this local treasure. Escorting visitors into the sun-drenched hills to meet his dedicated lemon and citrus fruit suppliers, Colagreco articulates the lemon’s unique qualities with a connoisseur’s appreciation. "You can eat the peel of a Menton lemon; it has a thick, sweet rind. You can eat the whole thing; it’s totally organic and very juicy," he explains, highlighting its purity and versatility. He further points out a charming physical attribute: "What’s particular to the Menton lemon is that it has a smile, a small curvy fold at one end," a whimsical detail that makes it instantly recognizable. At Mirazur, Colagreco not only champions the Menton lemon in his exquisite, nature-inspired cuisine but also explores the boundless possibilities of other regional citrus, incorporating the vibrant hues and complex flavors of Star Ruby grapefruits, delicate yuzu confit, and intriguing kumquats into his celebrated dishes. His culinary philosophy, deeply rooted in the local landscape, elevates the Menton lemon from a mere ingredient to a symbol of the region’s agricultural heritage and gastronomic excellence.

The perpetual interplay between French and Italian cultures is perhaps best observed through the lens of local entrepreneurs, particularly those whose businesses bridge the geographical and cultural divide. Luciano Fondrieschi, the proprietor of R Bike Menton, a popular cycling shop strategically positioned on the promenade between the historic old town and the Italian border, offers an insightful perspective on this dynamic. "Menton is a French town with an Italian regard," he asserts, perfectly capturing the nuanced identity. He perceives a palpable, yet friendly, competition between the two nations within the town’s daily life, a rivalry that enriches rather than divides. Fondrieschi, a former successful runner and triathlete in Italy, has created a vibrant hub where French and Italian cycling enthusiasts alike congregate, poring over racks of high-performance shoes, pedals, and bicycles, eagerly seeking his expert advice.

His repair shop is a microcosm of Menton’s cross-border appeal, where languages switch seamlessly, reflecting the town’s fluid linguistic landscape. During a recent visit, a British couple, exhilarated and clad in Lycra, recounted their triumphant 36-mile (58km) round trip to the Italian cycling mecca of Sanremo. They were swiftly followed by an Italian pensioner who had cycled to Dolceacqua, a picturesque village 13 miles away, purely for a pizza lunch, and then a couple from Luxembourg, keen to have a puncture repaired before embarking on their journey to the glamorous Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat. Fondrieschi observes the cultural differences with a knowing smile: "French people really just like speaking in French, but we [Italians] speak with our hands, so can talk to anyone!" This charming anecdote highlights the differing communication styles that coexist here. The in-store cafe further embodies this blend, offering a tempting array of French brioches alongside Italian rústico caprese, aromatic Italian cordials, and the ever-popular French café au lait, creating a culinary experience that is distinctly Mentonese. The proximity to Italy means a constant flow of people, goods, and ideas. Many Mentonese have Italian ancestry, and Italian is widely understood. Similarly, French culture and language seep across the border into Ventimiglia and beyond, fostering a unique Riviera identity that transcends national boundaries.

Beyond the bustling contemporary life, Menton’s historical layers reveal a fascinating international tapestry, memorialized in its very street names. While avenues dedicated to French luminaries like Pasteur, Victor Hugo, and Général de Gaulle are present, they share space with names like avenue Cernuschi and Laurenti, and rues Pietra Scritta, Isola, Urbana, Pieta, and Mattoni, which resonate with Italian heritage. The town also pays homage to its diverse array of illustrious foreign residents and visitors. Square Victoria recalls the British monarch’s sojourn in 1882, drawn by Menton’s reputed healing climate. Avenue Blasco Ibáñez commemorates the Spanish writer who resided in a grand villa here in the 1920s, while avenue Katherine Mansfield honors the New Zealand modernist writer who found solace and inspiration at Villa Isola Bella. Intriguingly, these last two avenues are linked by the rue Webb-Ellis, a tribute to a man whose legacy is etched into the very fabric of sporting history.

William Webb Ellis, the legendary schoolboy credited with inventing rugby when he supposedly picked up the ball during a football match in 1823, later became an Anglican vicar. He moved to Menton in the 1860s, spending his final years in this sun-drenched haven. His grave, a pilgrimage site for rugby enthusiasts worldwide, is located in the serene, hilltop Vieux Château cemetery, a steep but rewarding walk from the old town. From this vantage point, overlooking the azure expanse of the Mediterranean, his resting place is perpetually adorned with offerings of rugby balls and club ties, a poignant tribute to his enduring impact on the sport. Even higher up, in the Trabuquet cemetery, lies the grave of the English illustrator Aubrey Beardsley, who died tragically young at the age of 25. He is interred alongside many other young artists, writers, and aristocrats who flocked to Menton in the late 19th century. At that time, Menton was renowned as a health resort, particularly for those suffering from respiratory ailments, its mild climate and clean air offering a glimmer of hope for a cure or at least a reprieve. These individuals, seeking health or inspiration, found solace and beauty in Menton’s many exquisite botanical gardens, which flourished thanks to the town’s benevolent climate, transforming it into a verdant oasis.

Half a century later, France’s own master of pen and ink, the polymath Jean Cocteau, arrived in Menton, leaving an indelible artistic mark. In 1955, the then-mayor extended an invitation to Cocteau to decorate the interior of the Salle des Mariages, the town hall’s wedding room. Cocteau responded with a captivating mural cycle depicting the myth of Orpheus and Eurydice, infused with local Mentonese elements, including centaurs and a charming portrayal of a Menton wedding. Today, a key is readily available at the town hall, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in Cocteau’s unique vision, a testament to his multifaceted genius in film, poetry, and art.

Just a hundred meters from Cocteau’s artistic legacy lies Allo Robert, a treasure trove of French and Italian bric-à-brac. This warehouse-emporium is a delightful jumble of curiosities, offering a tangible glimpse into the domestic lives of Mentonese couples from a century ago. Amidst the charming clutter, one might discover a vintage light-up Tabac sign, cabinets brimming with 1930s soda siphons, elegant candlesticks, and classic champagne buckets. Italian crockery sits alongside iconic blue chairs from Nice’s promenade, creating a dusty, captivating snapshot of Menton’s early 20th-century past. As the sign outside aptly declares, it is a repository "de curiosités… et tutti quanti" – a world of curiosities and all the rest, inviting visitors to unearth forgotten gems and connect with the town’s rich, layered history.

For those seeking to experience Menton’s unique blend of culture, history, and natural beauty, several options abound. The seafront Hôtel Napoléon offers comfortable accommodation with the added luxury of a solar-heated pool, with doubles starting from €106 (napoleon-menton.com). For a taste of Mauro Colagreco’s culinary expertise in a more casual setting, his restaurant La Pecoranegra provides an exquisite dining experience, serving delectable pizzas, authentic vitello tonnato, and creatively flavoured burrata (pecoranegra.fr). Whether drawn by the allure of its golden lemons, the echoes of its fascinating past, or the vibrant energy of its Franco-Italian present, Menton offers a destination unlike any other, a truly captivating jewel on the French Riviera.