A Riot of Colour: Celebrating 21 Years of Community-Based Tourism in the Himalayan Foothills

Kathdhara village is a riot of colour as the early evening light turns the clouds the rosy hue of Himalayan salt, painting the sky with an ethereal glow that seems to ripple across the jagged peaks. Below, vibrant red chillies lie sun-drying on woven mats, their fiery pigment contrasting sharply with the cool, cornflower blue of traditional wooden doorways, each a welcoming portal into a home. The scene is further animated by flashes of brilliant fuchsia from a passing sari and the cheerful marigold orange of devotional garlands, all set against a majestic backdrop of verdant terraced fields. Here, cabbages grow in perfect, disciplined rows, meticulously tended, evoking the idyllic charm of a scene plucked directly from a Peter Rabbit book, a testament to generations of harmonious coexistence with nature.

This captivating spectacle unfolds in Kathdhara, a remote hamlet home to a mere 22 families, nestled deep within the Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary in the Kumaon region of Uttarakhand, north-east India. As the twilight deepens, casting long shadows across the layered hills, our guide, Deepak, leads us on a gentle stroll. The crisp mountain air carries the scent of pine and damp earth, mingling with the faint aroma of woodsmoke. The iconic, soaring, snow-capped Panchachuli peaks stand sentinel in the distance, their ancient majesty a constant reminder of the Himalayas’ profound power. Along our path, we are greeted by villagers, their faces etched with the wisdom of the mountains, as they tend to their homes and gardens. Strings of Diwali fairy lights, still twinkling from the recent festival of lights, add an extra, magical sparkle to the scene, reflecting the warmth and festive spirit that permeates these close-knit communities.

My journey here is part of a walking holiday designed to explore the enchanting foothills of the Himalayas and immerse myself in the authentic rhythms of village life. I am travelling with Village Ways, a pioneering organization in India celebrating its 21st anniversary this year, renowned for its commitment to responsible, community-based tourism. The genesis of Village Ways traces back to the vision of Manisha and Himanshu Pande, the enterprising couple who also manage the Khali Estate, a charming heritage hotel within the Binsar reserve. Their profound goal was to create sustainable livelihoods that would counteract the pervasive trend of urban migration, thereby supporting and preserving the traditional rural way of life through low-impact tourism initiatives. Launched in 2005 with a modest circuit of just five villages in the Binsar reserve, where guests would trek between accommodations, Village Ways has since blossomed into a nationwide network, now encompassing over 30 villages across diverse regions of India, from the central plains of Madhya Pradesh to the tropical backwaters of Kerala. This expansion underscores the adaptability and success of their unique model.

"The fundamental idea was to foster a collective spirit within the community, empowering them to collaboratively manage a tourism venture," Manisha Pande explains, her voice reflecting both passion and conviction. "We focused on training local people in every facet of the business, ensuring that everyone, from the cooks to the porters, has a meaningful role to play." This emphasis on local ownership and comprehensive skill development is a cornerstone of the Village Ways philosophy. The innovative model has not only transformed lives at the grassroots level but has also garnered significant attention from the Indian government. "The Village Ways model has truly captured the attention of the government, leading to exciting collaborations on various projects in other states now," Manisha adds, highlighting the potential for widespread replication and policy influence.

Unlike traditional homestays, most of the accommodation offered by Village Ways comprises small, village-built guesthouses, typically sleeping up to eight guests. This design ensures privacy for both guests and villagers while still fostering interaction. A core principle of their responsible tourism approach is equitable distribution of income. Funds generated are fairly and transparently shared among all involved, from the cleaners and caretakers to the guides and porters, with crucial decisions made collectively by democratically elected village tourism committees. Back at the Kathdhara guesthouse, we are fortunate enough to join in the Diwali celebrations, a truly immersive cultural experience. We share homemade sweets, participate in the ancient ritual of lighting traditional oil lamps (diyas), and offer prayers to the goddess Lakshmi at a makeshift shrine adorned with marigolds. Later, we feast on a delicious thali, a platter brimming with local delicacies: spicy yams harvested from the terraced fields, nourishing dal, pungent hemp chutney, and warm, freshly made roti. That night, cocooned by the profound silence of the mountains, disturbed only by the distant murmur of the forest, we sleep soundly, a sense of deep peace settling over us.

The next morning dawns with brilliant blue skies, promising a perfect day for exploration. After a hearty breakfast featuring local Kumaoni fare, we set out on a gentle walk to the neighbouring Gonap village. Our path takes us through the heart of the Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary, an area of 47 square kilometres (18 square miles) established in 1988. The sanctuary’s primary objective is to protect the vital broadleaf oak forests and the rich biodiversity they support. For the indigenous communities residing within its boundaries, the creation of the sanctuary fundamentally altered their relationship with the forest, bringing an end to traditional practices like tree felling and hunting. This regulatory shift, while crucial for conservation, often created economic hardship, tempting many villagers to abandon their ancestral homes for the perceived opportunities of urban centres. Village Ways emerged as a beacon of hope, offering a compelling alternative. Former hunters, once reliant on the forest for sustenance, were retrained as knowledgeable guides, now sharing their profound understanding of the land and its wildlife with curious visitors. This transformation not only provided new livelihoods but also ignited a renewed sense of pride among the villagers as they witnessed outsiders’ genuine interest in their local customs, traditions, and the pristine natural environment.

We hike through pristine forests, a mosaic of towering pine, ancient oak, and vibrant rhododendron trees. While the rhododendrons are particularly spectacular in March or April, when the landscape is painted in vivid hues of red, pink, and white, their presence even now adds a touch of untamed beauty. I am particularly fascinated by the Himalayan oaks, whose vast root networks play a critical ecological role in storing and slowly releasing water, thereby stabilizing the steep mountain slopes and preventing erosion. Our guide, Deepak, points out the bright red flowers of wild turmeric and a myriad of medicinal plants, each with its own story and traditional use. We learn about goat weed, locally believed to possess properties that staunch bleeding, and Indian tobacco, traditionally employed to alleviate toothache, highlighting the deep indigenous knowledge of herbal remedies passed down through generations.

Though often elusive, leopards roam these forests, and we spy their tell-tale footprints and scat, silent testament to their presence. We also discover porcupine quills, a reminder of the sanctuary’s diverse nocturnal inhabitants. However, Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary is perhaps best known for its extraordinary birdlife, boasting over 200 species. We stop frequently as Deepak, with his keen eye and extensive knowledge, points out the majestic crested serpent eagle circling overhead, the tiny, melodious leaf warbler flitting among the branches, the vibrant black-headed jay, and the noisy, colourful parakeets that add a lively soundtrack to the forest.

Gonap itself is a tiny hamlet, even more secluded than Kathdhara, home to just seven families today. Upon our arrival at the village guesthouse, we are welcomed with the warm hospitality typical of the Kumaon region – steaming cups of chai and plates of freshly made, warm pakora. We savour these treats while gazing at the staggering mountain views, observing Eurasian griffon vultures soaring effortlessly on the thermals, majestic symbols of the Himalayan skies. Deepak then leads us to a tiny, ancient temple, its stones weathered by time, past houses whose gardens heave with unusually jumbo lemons and the peculiar, starchy "air potatoes" growing on giant stalks. The air hums with the incessant, rhythmic chirping of cicadas, a quintessential sound of the sub-Himalayan summer.

Notably, no motorable roads connect the five villages that form the core Binsar circuit. Instead, a network of well-maintained footpaths offers relatively easy walking, allowing for unhurried exploration and ample time for rest and contemplation. For those seeking more rigorous adventures, a higher-altitude route in the nearby Saryu and Pindar valleys, close to the remote border with Tibet, offers significantly more challenging hikes and breathtaking vistas. Due to limited time, our journey leads us back to the Khali Estate from Gonap. En route, we make a crucial stop at Zero Point lookout, the highest vantage spot in the reserve at an elevation of 2,500 metres. Here, we are treated to an awe-inspiring 360-degree Himalayan panorama, an uninterrupted sweep of snow-capped peaks. The view is dominated by Nanda Devi, India’s second-highest mountain, its majestic presence commanding profound respect and admiration.

The Khali Estate, our picturesque base, holds a rich history. Built approximately 150 years ago by a distinguished British commissioner, General Sir Henry Ramsay, it exudes an old-world charm. Our accommodation is in quaint stone rondavel cabins, and a communal sitting room with a roaring fire provides a cozy sanctuary against the evening chill. General Ramsay, affectionately known as the "King of Kumaon," is credited with significant contributions to the region during his tenure, including the development of local infrastructure, the founding of a leper colony in Almora (the historical capital), and the crucial regulation of tree felling, which laid early foundations for conservation. Himanshu Pande provides a captivating tour of the estate, allowing us to delve into its storied past, poring over sepia-toned photographs and historical library texts. We learn that the estate also served as a peaceful retreat for the esteemed Nehru family and even hosted Mahatma Gandhi, transforming into an ashram for a period. Surrounded by dense, ancient forest, the estate is utterly peaceful, its tranquility broken only by the distant, haunting sound of barking deer as I drift off to sleep.

For visitors eager to delve deeper into the region’s rich history and the influential characters who shaped it, Village Ways has recently unveiled a compelling new itinerary: "Khali in Kumaon." This comprehensive journey not only includes the immersive Binsar village walks but also incorporates visits to other significant landmarks. It takes in the charming lakeside hill station of Nainital, a popular colonial-era resort town where we had paused during our 270-mile journey from Delhi. Guests will also explore Almora, the vibrant historical capital, and visit a local primary school actively supported by Village Ways, demonstrating the organization’s commitment to education. The itinerary also features the museum dedicated to Jim Corbett, the legendary Anglo-Indian hunter who famously turned conservationist, whose exploits are deeply intertwined with the wildlife of Kumaon. A poignant highlight is the Gandhi trail, leading into the hills to the Anasakti ashram, where visitors can see some of the first looms he established for homespun cotton (Khadi) – a powerful symbol of economic independence and a profound act of resistance against British rule.

Our last day is a vibrant celebration of the present and the future, as a stream of villagers arrives at Khali from communities far and wide to join the anniversary festivities. Other founders of Village Ways – British individuals with backgrounds in international development and tourism – are also present, adding to the sense of shared purpose and accomplishment. The day is filled with inspiring talks, joyous feasting on local delicacies, and lively dancing. I learn more about the Village Ways charitable trust, an essential arm of the organization that extends its impact beyond tourism. The trust actively supports healthcare initiatives in these remote villages, crucially training local women to run mobile clinics, thereby empowering them and improving access to vital medical services. Manisha Pande shares impressive statistics: since its inception, Village Ways has hosted 7,000 guests, directly benefiting an estimated 5,000 people, ranging from local artists showcasing their crafts to taxi drivers providing transport services. Furthermore, 470 villagers are directly involved in decision-making processes as active members of the village tourism committees across six different states, truly embodying the spirit of community ownership.

As I browse the stalls, I purchase locally made scarves and intricate handicrafts, tangible reminders of the region’s artistic heritage. Many young villagers, now confidently working as guides, cooks, or porters, eagerly share their personal stories, highlighting the profoundly positive impact tourism has had on their lives. "Since I joined as a guide three years ago, I’ve learned so much about Binsar and our incredible birds – and my English has really improved," beams 23-year-old Ashirwad Joshi from Dalar village. "I’m very happy to be part of it and share my knowledge with visitors – it makes me proud." His words encapsulate the empowerment and renewed self-esteem that Village Ways fosters.

As we depart the following morning for the long drive to Kathgodam and our onward train journey to Delhi, it is the pervasive feeling of mutual respect and warmth that lingers most profoundly. The challenges facing these remote Himalayan communities are undeniable, from ageing village populations and the ongoing threat of urban migration to the decline in international visitor numbers since the global Covid-19 pandemic. However, the Village Ways mission remains full steam ahead, committed to expanding its ethical ethos to other parts of the country. This distinctive model of tourism – one that genuinely involves local communities as partners, fostering collaboration rather than exploitation – delivers tangible benefits for both the local residents and the discerning travellers seeking authentic experiences. In these increasingly fragmented and divided times, such initiatives, built on principles of sustainability, empowerment, and cultural exchange, are to be celebrated more than ever.

The trip was provided by Village Ways, which creates bespoke itineraries tailored to travellers’ interests. The suggested 10-day Khali in Kumaon itinerary (available until 30 May, and from 15 September to 30 November 2026) costs from £1,315pp, based on a party of four, including transfers, rail travel, accommodation and most meals.