Enriching the Unseen Gem: A Deep Dive into Chiavenna, Italy’s Alpine Sanctuary.

The ancient settlement of Chiavenna, nestled in the heart of Lombardy, near Italy’s border with Switzerland, once held a prestigious position among discerning European travellers. This strategic location, at the convergence of vital Alpine passes, made it a bustling crossroads of commerce and culture for centuries. Its allure was such that in 1860, the renowned novelist George Eliot eloquently captured its essence, writing, "Lovely Chiavenna … mountain peaks, huge boulders, with rippling miniature torrents and lovely young flowers … and grassy heights with rich Spanish chestnuts." Her words painted a vivid picture of a place where rugged natural beauty met lush Mediterranean warmth, a true gateway to Italy’s sunnier climes after the arduous journey across the Alps.

Eliot was far from alone in her admiration for this enchanting town. Chiavenna’s mystique captivated a pantheon of literary giants. Edith Wharton, the Pulitzer-winning American author, was struck by its "fantastically picturesque … an exuberance of rococo," hinting at the town’s architectural charm and vibrant historical layers. For Mary Shelley, the visionary behind "Frankenstein," Chiavenna was nothing short of "paradise … glowing in rich and sunny vegetation," a stark and welcome contrast to the often bleak landscapes of the high Alps she traversed. Even Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, the celebrated German polymath, described his experience as "like a dream," underscoring the town’s almost ethereal quality and its ability to transport visitors to another realm. These glowing endorsements from some of the most influential writers of their time firmly establish Chiavenna’s historical significance as a cultural and natural landmark.

For these pioneering travellers of yesteryear, the gentle, sunlit embrace of Chiavenna signalled their triumphant arrival in Italy. It was the first breath of Mediterranean air, the first sight of chestnut groves after the formidable challenge of crossing the Splügen Pass. This ancient route, one of the earliest and most vital transalpine connections, linked northern Europe to the south, making Chiavenna a critical hub for trade, diplomacy, and cultural exchange. Caravans laden with goods, pilgrims, and adventurers all passed through its gates, contributing to its wealth and cosmopolitan character. However, with the advent of modern transportation and the rise of more accessible routes, particularly the Gotthard Pass, Chiavenna gradually faded from the mainstream tourist map. Today, it remains largely overlooked, with most contemporary tourists bypassing it entirely, heading instead to the better-known glamour of Lake Como, which lies a mere 60 miles (100km) to the south. In doing so, they are inadvertently missing a truly extraordinary experience.

Intrigued by the fervent praise once heaped upon this mysterious town, and captivated by its picture-perfect location at the foot of the snow-flecked Alps, I decided to embark on a personal quest to rediscover Chiavenna’s forgotten charms. My husband and I chose to spend a week immersing ourselves in its quiet beauty. What we found was a destination that far exceeded expectations. Surrounded by thick, ancient chestnut woods, and bisected by the crystal-clear, fast-flowing River Mera, the Valchiavenna (the town’s encompassing valley) unfolds with a series of delightful surprises. From the region’s unique crotti—natural caves used for centuries for storage and socializing—to the opportunity to stay in a B&B housed within the ornate villa once inhabited by the great 18th-century painter Angelica Kauffman, every corner reveals a rich tapestry of history and natural wonder. Beyond the town, the valley boasts dozens of magnificent hiking and cycling trails, winding through a spectacular landscape of thundering waterfalls, glacially sculpted rocks, mossy woodlands, ancient mule tracks, and even abandoned villages, all remarkably devoid of the typical tourist crowds.

Our journey to Chiavenna was an adventure in itself, a testament to the region’s dramatic topography. I travelled from Zurich, taking a scenic train journey to St Moritz, a jewel of the Swiss Engadin. From there, a bus carried me over the spectacular Maloja Pass, a feat of engineering and nature. The descent involved navigating 20 vertiginous hairpin bends, known locally as tornanti, carved precariously from the rock face of the Alps, offering sweeping, breathtaking views of crystalline lakes, towering peaks, and dense forests in every direction. This approximately €20 one-hour bus ride proved to be a cultural itinerary in itself, stopping off at the charming Swiss village of Stampa, the birthplace of the influential artist Alberto Giacometti and home to the Museo Ciäsa Granda, which is dedicated to his life and work. Further along, we paused at Sils Maria village, where the Nietzsche-Haus stands as a museum, commemorating the seven formative summers the philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche spent there in the late 19th century, a period during which he conceived some of his most profound ideas. Meanwhile, my husband opted for a different, equally picturesque route, travelling to Chiavenna by train from Milan, a journey that gracefully skirted the scenic shores of numerous iconic lakes, including the renowned Lake Como, offering a gentle transition from urban bustle to Alpine tranquility.

Our first full day was dedicated to exploring the natural grandeur of the Valchiavenna. We embarked on a rewarding 6-mile hike upriver along the beautiful Via Bregaglia, a significant portion of the larger 24-mile hiking trail that stretches from Soglio in Switzerland all the way to Chiavenna. Our destination was the family-run, Michelin-starred Lanterna Verde, one of the region’s most celebrated restaurants. After a magnificent feast of fresh trout, caught just minutes before from their own pristine lake, we took a convenient bus back to Chiavenna to delve into its historical heart. The town’s old centre, largely rebuilt after a devastating fire in the 15th century that destroyed much of the medieval settlement, is a testament to its enduring spirit and prosperity. An Italian friend aptly described it as "like Verona but without the amphitheatre, crowds and chain stores," a perfect analogy. The labyrinthine network of cobbled alleys, adorned with ornate frescoed buildings and elaborate fountains, speaks volumes about Chiavenna’s past as a wealthy trading town, its beauty preserved and unmarred by modern commercialism.

One of Chiavenna’s most distinctive cultural features is its dozens of crotti. These fascinating natural cellars, formed by ancient rockfalls and embedded in the rocky flanks of the surrounding mountains, are unique to the region. Before the advent of modern refrigeration, the consistent cool temperatures provided by the ‘Soffio’ – a natural subterranean draft of air – made crotti ideal for storing wine, cheese, and cured meats. Beyond their practical utility, they also served as vital social hubs, where locals would gather, share food, and celebrate. Today, several of these historic crotti have been lovingly converted into atmospheric restaurants and bars, offering an authentic taste of local tradition. At Crotto Ubiali and Crotto Ombra, we indulged in two of the town’s signature dishes: sciatt – melt-in-the-mouth buckwheat fritters generously stuffed with local cheese – and gnocchi alla chiavennasca – delicate, bread-based dumplings traditionally served with rich melted butter and crispy fried sage. Later, at Crotto Belvedere, we savored glasses of local wine, particularly Opera, a delicious white from nearby vineyards, notable not just for its taste but also for its artistically labelled bottles featuring the work of a local talent, a subtle nod to the region’s blend of culture and craftsmanship.

Our second day plunged us deeper into the geological wonders of the Valchiavenna. We explored the Parco delle Marmitte dei Giganti, or "giants’ cauldrons," a remarkable geological park that slopes up from the town’s eastern edge. This area is characterized by a mass of mineral-rich green stone, known as pietre verdi, featuring natural craters and potholes, all sculpted over thousands of years by the erosive power of ancient glaciers. From this fascinating geological site, hiking trails fan out tantalizingly in all directions. We chose a 50-minute path leading to Uschione, a truly empty, roadless village of ancient stone houses, complete with a church and cemetery, perched high above the valley and often wreathed in soft wisps of cloud. Once home to as many as four hundred people, today its only permanent inhabitants are long-eared sheep and Mendi, who runs the welcoming Rifugio Uschione (doubles from €160). This rustic yet stylish inn, housed in a former priest’s house, offered us an utterly silent night of perfect, restorative sleep. The next morning, we followed a mossy path upwards to explore more abandoned forest crotti, before turning northwards to bask in panoramic views across the valley and up towards the majestic, soaring peaks of the Rhaetian Alps.

Back in Chiavenna, we indulged in the town’s historical and artistic heritage. We checked into the Palazzo Salis B&B, once the residence of the celebrated 18th-century painter Angelica Kauffman. Here, a lavish frescoed room, complete with antique furniture, a beautifully painted ceiling, and a chequered marble floor, offered a glimpse into aristocratic life, with breakfast served on a charming terrace (doubles from €130). After a delightful interlude for cups of rich cappuccino and a comforting cioccolata calda (a decadent melted dark chocolate with a splash of thick cream) at Sierra Nevada, the town’s quaint roastery, we embarked on a mile-long stroll north to Piuro. Our destination was a tour of the most eye-popping Renaissance villa: Palazzo Vertemate Franchi. This extraordinary edifice stands as the sole surviving building from a catastrophic 1618 landslide that obliterated the entire village of Piuro and tragically claimed the lives of over 1,000 inhabitants. The palazzo, accessible by advance booking and guided tours only, boasts exquisite marquetry, fantastical frescoes that tell ancient stories, and elaborately carved panelling, each detail a testament to the artistic prowess and wealth of its original owners.

Giddy from all these unexpected delights and rich historical encounters, we strolled a further mile to the dramatic Acquafraggia waterfalls. This magnificent double waterfall tumbles an impressive 1,300 metres in a series of powerful cascades, its raw beauty inspiring even the great Leonardo da Vinci, who reportedly described it as "making a beautiful sound and a marvellous spectacle." With our cheeks gently misted by the spray, we embarked on a challenging climb up the ancient mule path, consisting of 2,867 stone steps, leading to the abandoned village of Savogno, where old stone houses cling precariously to the mountainside, seemingly defying gravity and time.

A day later, we ventured higher into the Alps, driving up the challenging 51 tightly twisting hairpin bends that ascend to the Splügen Pass. This exhilarating 40-minute journey saw us climb 1,780 metres, propelling us into an utterly different, much chillier, and more austere landscape. We spent a contented night at the legendary coaching inn, Albergo della Posta (doubles from €130), in the tiny hamlet of Montespluga. Here, time seems to have stood still for 75 years; the 10 bedrooms are cosily panelled in pine, retaining their original furnace stoves, offering a comforting glimpse into a bygone era of Alpine travel.

With Mary Shelley’s evocative words about the pass echoing in our heads – "naked and sublime … dim mists, chilling blasts and driving snow" – we embarked on a three-hour circular path to the Lago di Andossi. We revelled in the landscape’s bleak austerity, a raw beauty characterized by eerily turquoise lakes, luminously green lichen clinging to rocks, and treeless, craggy peaks that touched the sky. This very route also forms the beginning of the 20-mile Valchiavenna cycle path, a testament to the region’s commitment to sustainable tourism, which impressively took third place in the Italian Green Way Cycle Road awards of 2022. Bike hire is readily available from Adam’s Bike Tours, and we enthusiastically vowed to return one day to experience the route on two wheels.

Our final day was spent back in Chiavenna, soaking up its vibrant local life and delving into its remaining historical treasures. We explored the bustling Saturday market, sampled the delights of its three charming gelaterias, and wandered through the towering Parco Paradiso. This unique terraced botanical garden is built on the very site of Chiavenna’s original castle, offering both natural beauty and a historical vantage point. We ambled around the serene, cloistered church of San Lorenzo, admiring its gloriously carved 12th-century font, a masterpiece of medieval artistry. Our historical immersion culminated at Chiavenna’s high-security Museo del Tesoro, or "treasure museum," home to the extraordinary "La Pace." This jaw-dropping, 11th-century bible cover is a testament to unparalleled craftsmanship, featuring the finest goldsmithing and enamelling imaginable, intricately encrusted with emeralds, rubies, and pearls. It serves as yet another powerful reminder of the pivotal role Chiavenna once played in Europe’s rich and complex history.

We concluded our unforgettable trip by indulging in a locally inspired tasting menu at the family-run Villa Giade (which also offers sleekly modern, reasonably priced bedrooms with arguably the best views in town), a perfect way to celebrate our wedding anniversary. Over glasses of exquisite wine made from the local Nebbiolo grape, we pondered Chiavenna’s many hidden charms, its untouched beauty, and its profound sense of history. We wholeheartedly agreed that this quietly captivating corner of Lombardy could very well be the most quietly romantic town we had ever visited, a true hidden gem awaiting rediscovery.

For more information and to plan your own journey into this enchanting valley, visit valchiavenna.com.