Chef Daniel Humm’s Greek Odyssey: A Spiritual Immersion into the Soul of Sustainable Cuisine

On a crisp March morning last year, the world-renowned chef Daniel Humm, along with key members of his culinary vanguard from New York City’s illustrious three-Michelin-starred Eleven Madison Park, embarked on an extraordinary journey. Trading the bustling streets of Manhattan for the rugged, sun-drenched landscapes of Greece, they piled into a convoy of pickup trucks, destined for the scrubby, ancient mountains of Crete. For two immersive hours, their ascent along winding roads and up steep, rocky hills followed a local goatherd, whose weathered face and knowing eyes were a testament to generations of connection to this land. Their destination: a secluded mitato, a traditional stone hut nestled deep within the mountains, serving as both shelter and operational base for tending his flock.

What unfolded next, Humm recounts, transcended mere observation; it was "like a spiritual experience." The distinguished culinary team participated in the humane, respectful slaughter of one of the animals, a deeply moving ritual that underscored the profound reverence for life inherent in these ancient agricultural traditions. Together, they prepared the meat, transforming it into a communal feast shared with their Cretan hosts. "It was inspiring to watch this process, and the seriousness about it," Humm shared, reflecting on a profound lesson not only in the island’s enduring agricultural customs but also in the fundamental relationship between food, life, and the earth. He articulated a pervasive sentiment he felt throughout his Greek travels: "There is a sense of respect everywhere in Greece—respect for water, the ingredients, the animals, the environment—everything." This experience, far removed from the sterile confines of a modern kitchen, was a visceral encounter with the origins of sustenance, an echo of humanity’s earliest connection to its food source.

Humm and his colleagues were in Greece for a meticulously planned two-week culinary immersion, a journey sparked by a revelation during a previous visit to Athens. It was a lunch at Taverna Oikonomou, a beloved Athenian institution, that served as the catalyst. "We were 80 percent through the meal and we had basically only eaten vegetables," Humm recalls, a moment of profound insight for a chef who, even before Eleven Madison Park’s groundbreaking shift, had long championed sustainable, plant-forward cooking. (Eleven Madison Park famously transitioned to an entirely plant-based menu from June 2021, a bold move that redefined fine dining and cemented Humm’s commitment to environmental stewardship, a commitment that continues to evolve). "I was like, Oh my God, I need to bring my team here."

This epiphany led to a critical collaboration. Humm connected with Vassilis Bakasis, the owner of Taverna Oikonomou, and Manolis Papoutsakis, the visionary chef-owner of Pharaoh, a popular Athenian restaurant celebrated for its extensive natural wine selection and impressive vinyl collection. Together, they curated an itinerary designed to delve into the multifaceted tapestry of Greece’s complex and ancient cuisine. The journey would take Humm and his crew from Papoutsakis’s home island of Crete, steeped in its unique mountain and coastal culinary traditions, to the rugged, smaller Cycladic island of Tínos, known for its unique terroir and resilient agricultural heritage. The expedition would culminate in a deep dive into Athens’s vibrant and evolving food scene. This intensive research trip was more than just a gastronomic adventure; it was an educational pilgrimage intended to profoundly inform their ongoing work at Eleven Madison Park and shape the philosophy behind a new restaurant Humm plans to open later this year in Manhattan’s historic West Village.

The profound impact of the pandemic served as a pivotal moment for Humm, propelling him to leverage his considerable platform to challenge conventional perceptions of how we acquire and consume food. His inquiry extends to the very foundations of our industrialized food systems, scrutinizing the significant environmental footprint of large-scale meat production, and advocating for a reorientation of our eating habits. He envisions a culinary paradigm that deeply reconnects food with its geographical and cultural origins, emphasizing the inherent link between sustenance and the "place" from which it springs. Humm’s advocacy extends beyond the kitchen: he co-founded the food-equity nonprofit Rethink Food, an initiative dedicated to addressing hunger and food waste. In the fall of 2024, his global influence was further recognized with his appointment as a UNESCO Goodwill Ambassador for Food Education. In this prestigious role, Humm focuses on the critical intersection of global foodways, biodiversity preservation, and the intrinsic relationship with the natural world. "When you look at a place like Greece, or wherever there’s such long food traditions, there’s a lot to learn," he asserts, highlighting the invaluable wisdom embedded in centuries of culinary practice.

The expedition last March commenced with an immersion into a facet of Mediterranean culinary culture often unseen by outsiders. "Cretan cuisine is like its own category," Humm emphasizes, a testament to the island’s diverse geography and rich history. While the island boasts a vibrant seafood-focused coastal cooking tradition, built around the abundant small fish like sardines and anchovies that thrive in the Aegean, Crete’s towering central peaks harbor an entirely distinct mountain cuisine. This rugged interior, home to two UNESCO Biosphere Reserves, safeguards specific farming practices, indigenous ingredients, and ancient recipes, preserving a culinary heritage that has evolved in harmony with the challenging landscape.

Humm and his team found their temporary home at Milia Mountain Retreat, an albergo-diffuso-style eco-resort that seamlessly blends into its natural surroundings, offering an authentic glimpse into traditional Cretan life. Here, they engaged in foraging for wild mountain greens, an activity that connects diners directly to the untamed bounty of the land. Their culinary exploration continued at Ntounias, a unique farm and restaurant nestled in the hills above Chania. Ntounias stands as a living museum of Cretan cooking, where the kitchen operates without electricity, relying solely on clay pots heated over a wood fire – a primal, slow-cooking method that imbues every dish with unparalleled depth and flavor, showcasing the island’s dedication to authentic, unhurried preparation.

The journey then led Humm’s team further into the ancient ways of the Aegean, transporting them to Tínos, a Cycladic island approximately 140 miles north of Crete. Here, the unique, boulder-strewn environment has profoundly shaped the local diet and agricultural practices. In many parts of the island, the very possibility of agriculture and winemaking hinges on ancient knowledge passed down through generations. Humm explains the ingenuity: "They had to terrace the landscape to be able to raise animals or grow anything, for the place to even be habitable." These iconic tiered stone walls, known as xerolithies, are not merely picturesque features; they are vital engineering marvels that prevent erosion, mitigate harsh wind damage, and create microclimates conducive to cultivation. They also serve as a tangible link to the farmers and shepherds of millennia past, their presence a silent testament to enduring human ingenuity and resilience. "There are trails around these terraces that have been walked on for millennia," Humm observes, highlighting the unbroken chain of tradition that defines the island.

The group’s guide on Tínos was the esteemed chef Marinos Souranis, with whom they embarked on foraging expeditions, baskets in hand, to gather wild artichokes and succulent rock samphire. Souranis, a fervent advocate for Tínos’s unique bounty, leads workshops and food tours from his celebrated restaurant and guesthouse, Marathia, located on the island’s southern tip. His ever-changing menu is a dynamic reflection of the island’s seasonal offerings. Among his most intriguing culinary experiments is a pioneering project focused on dry-aging fish—an innovative approach that masterfully combines new technology with ancient preservation knowledge. This technique not only reduces food waste, a critical global challenge, but also intensifies the flavor of the fish, creating a richer, more complex profile. For Humm, a particular standout from this endeavor was a cured fish that possessed a remarkable texture and depth, "almost like prosciutto." It exemplified the perfect synergy of tradition, sustainability, and gastronomic excellence.

Humm and his team concluded their profound Greek immersion in Athens, where they experienced a dynamic culinary scene that expertly melds tradition with contemporary innovation. At Papoutsakis’s restaurant, Pharaoh, located in the hip Exarcheia district, the chefs witnessed a modern interpretation of Greek cuisine. Creative and seasonal small plates, such as rich chestnut stew, lamb slow-cooked with golden thistle, and comforting stuffed cabbage rolls bathed in a delicate avgolemono sauce, are all prepared over a live wood fire. This ancient cooking method imparts a distinctive smoky depth and warmth to the dishes. "You feel the Athens energy there," Humm notes, captivated by the restaurant’s vibrant atmosphere and innovative spirit.

Another pivotal lesson Humm gleaned from his time in the bustling capital was the enduring connection to the land and its ancient agricultural methods, a connection that remains palpable even in a metropolis of over 3 million inhabitants. This was nowhere more evident than near the Central Market, where they discovered Diporto, one of Athens’s oldest and most authentic tavernas. Opened in 1887 in the basement of a historic house, Diporto offers no menus, just simple, honest cooking. The focus is predominantly on fresh vegetables, local fish, and whatever ingredients are at their seasonal peak. It’s a culinary philosophy rooted in immediate availability and minimal intervention.

"We had a dish of chickpeas, another of fava beans, and one more of gigante beans," Humm recounts, marveling at the simplicity and purity. "In other cuisines that would have been one dish." Instead, at Diporto, each single ingredient is celebrated in its unadulterated glory, allowed to shine individually. It is food traditions like these, which honor the things we eat with gratitude, respect, and celebration, that Daniel Humm is now dedicated to preserving and promoting. His Greek odyssey reinforced a fundamental truth: "There’s so much knowledge there for a chef—the recipes are only a small part of it." The true essence lies in the deep cultural understanding, the reverence for ingredients, the ethical connection to the source, and the sustainable practices that have nourished communities for centuries. This invaluable knowledge, gleaned from the heart of Greece, will undoubtedly shape the future of Eleven Madison Park and Humm’s upcoming ventures, serving as a powerful testament to the enduring wisdom of ancient foodways in the pursuit of a more conscious and respectful culinary future.

This article appeared in the April 2026 issue of Condé Nast Traveler. Subscribe to the magazine here.