Summer’s Hottest Sip: Discover the Re-Emerging World of Palomino White Wines

Forget the ubiquitous rosé; this summer, a chilled glass of Palomino is poised to become the beverage of choice for discerning drinkers. This oft-misunderstood grape, primarily recognized as the backbone of sherry, is now being celebrated for its exceptional ability to produce vibrant, intensely flavorful, and remarkably thirst-quenching unfortified white wines. When crafted with care, Palomino yields wines that rival the finest white varietals, offering a complex profile that is both refreshing and sophisticated, perfect for even the most scorching summer days.

Palomino is a true sun-worshipper, flourishing in arid, heat-drenched terroirs like the iconic Jerez region of Andalusia, Spain. Even in conditions that would challenge many other grape varieties, Palomino vines consistently deliver large, succulent berries. These berries, when transformed into table wines, exhibit a delightful freshness, a distinct saline character, and a balance of relatively low acidity and alcohol. This profile makes Palomino an ideal candidate for “heatwave drinking,” offering a cooling counterpoint to rising temperatures. The grape’s inherent resilience and ability to thrive under pressure are precisely what make its wines so compelling.

In recent years, a constellation of talented winemakers across Spain, South Africa, and California has been shining a much-deserved spotlight on Palomino. These artisans are championing low-yielding, old-vine plantings, meticulously coaxing out the grape’s potential to create elegant, unfortified wines that showcase its true character. This movement signifies a significant departure from its historical association solely with fortified sherry, revealing a versatile varietal capable of producing wines of remarkable purity and distinction. These winemakers are not just producing wine; they are reviving a heritage and redefining perceptions.

Holism Palomino 2022, Piekenierskloof, South Africa: A Desert Dream Realized

Deep within the rugged, untamed landscape of the Piekenierskloof, approximately two hours north of Cape Town, lies Swartberg Wingerde. This remote, almost mythical vineyard is the passion project of Rudiger Gretschel, a winemaker renowned for his contributions to iconic South African labels such as Chocolate Block, Boekenhootskloof, Cap Krone, and Reyneke. In this wild expanse, shared with baboons and the unique fynbos vegetation, Gretschel has dedicated himself to resurrecting ancient vineyards, the finest of which are bottled under the “Holism” label as single-variety wines.

Gretschel’s connection to this challenging environment is deeply personal. "I grew up in the Namibian desert," he shares, his voice carrying the resonance of his upbringing, "so the wildness of Piekenierskloof just speaks to me. It has always been my dream to own a vineyard here – I like this idea of hardy things thriving in the heat." This philosophy is evident in the Holism Palomino.

The oldest Palomino vines at Swartberg Wingerde date back to 1966 and have never known irrigation. On the day of a recent visit, the deep sands of the vineyard were almost too hot to touch, a testament to the intense solar exposure. However, the persistent cool Atlantic breezes that sweep through the region play a crucial role in preventing the grapes from becoming overripe. "They give the wines lift and lightness," Gretschel explains, "and make it possible to make something quite delicate." This delicate balance is a hallmark of the Holism Palomino 2022.

The wine itself presents an almost sake-like fineness and purity. It is profoundly thirst-quenching, offering a vibrant bouquet of nashi pear, green grape, and delicate white flowers. What further elevates this wine is its exceptionally user-friendly alcohol by volume (ABV) of just 11 percent, making it incredibly approachable and eminently drinkable. Gretschel marvels at the grape’s tenacity: "What else can you stick in the ground, not water for 60 years and get fruit from like this? It’s a miracle." This sentiment underscores the profound respect winemakers like Gretschel have for these ancient, resilient vines.

Suertes del Marqués Vidonia 2023, Tenerife, Spain: Volcanic Terroir and Ancient Roots

Palomino is not only a star in South Africa but also the most widely planted grape variety in Spain’s Canary Islands, where it is known locally as Listán Blanco. Among the archipelago’s volcanic islands, Tenerife stands out for producing some of the most compelling examples of this varietal. The celebrated Suertes del Marqués, a family-owned estate on the island’s northern coast, exemplifies this excellence. Their vineyards, bordered by palm trees, cascade from the foothills of the majestic Mount Teide down towards the shimmering sea.

A unique characteristic of Tenerife’s viticulture is the prevalence of ungrafted vines. Unlike much of mainland Europe, the island was largely spared from the devastating phylloxera epidemic of the 19th century, a pest that decimated vineyards worldwide. This historical immunity means that many of Tenerife’s vines, including those at Suertes del Marqués, are ancient and rooted directly in the island’s rich volcanic soil. This genetic purity holds a special appeal for oenological purists, offering a glimpse into the vine’s unadulterated expression.

The microclimate of Tenerife’s north coast, characterized by cloudy skies and high humidity, combined with the mineral-rich volcanic soils, imparts a distinct tension and minerality to the wines. Subtle smoky notes often complement the fruit profile, creating a complexity that sets them apart from wines grown in sunnier climes. Yet, these wines are far from austere; they boast an abundance of charming fruit flavors, often featuring notes of apple, pear, and white almond, with occasional hints of more hedonistic tropical fruits like pineapple.

Jonatana García Lima, the proprietor and winemaker at Suertes del Marqués, emphasizes his pursuit of "precision and elegance" in his winemaking. The estate’s signature cuvée, Vidonia, undergoes a textural oak influence, though the approach has been refined since 2018 to achieve a lighter touch. During the winery’s 20th-anniversary celebrations, a tasting of 14 vintages of Vidonia revealed the wine’s remarkable aging potential. The 2018, 2021, and 2023 vintages, in particular, stood out, striking a perfect balance between immediate charm and drinkability, and the capacity to develop gracefully over time. This ability to evolve while retaining its core identity is a testament to the quality of the fruit and the skillful winemaking.

Scythian Wine Co, The Scythians White 2023, California, US: A Californian Renaissance

In the dynamic landscape of new-wave Californian wine, the influence of sommeliers turned winemakers is undeniable. Rajat Parr, a respected figure in this movement, has turned his keen palate and deep understanding of terroir towards Palomino with his latest venture, Scythian Wine Co. Co-founded with Abe Schoener of The Scholium Project, this project is dedicated to uncovering and revitalizing "historically significant" old vineyards, primarily in Cucamonga, east of Los Angeles, and Temecula, north of San Diego. These remarkable sites boast vines that are over a century old. While the red grape varieties at these vineyards include classics like Zinfandel, Mission, and Grenache, Palomino is the singular white grape cultivated.

Parr’s passion for this project is palpable, particularly when discussing the Lopez Vineyard, planted in 1912. "For me, it comes back to the Lopez Vineyard, a very special place planted in 1912, dry farmed and never sprayed, where the vines have had over a century to find their own equilibrium with that ground," he states. He believes that Palomino, often overlooked outside of its sherry origins, reveals an extraordinary saline quality and a precision from such venerable sites that is difficult to find elsewhere. "There’s a tension to the fruit, an almost electric salinity, that speaks directly to the age of the vines and the honesty of how they’re farmed," Parr elaborates. His approach to working with this grape is one of profound respect and minimal intervention. "Working with it feels less like winemaking and more like listening; the grape doesn’t ask for much, it just asks you to get out of the way."

The Scythian Wine Co’s approach, including a week of skin contact for their Palomino, imparts a remarkable grip and intensity to the wine. This extended maceration allows for greater extraction of flavor and texture, resulting in a wine that beautifully marries citrus notes with a savory, yeasty character, all brightened by an energizing grapefruit zest. This technique further emphasizes the wine’s unique profile and its departure from conventional white winemaking practices.

For those in the vicinity of California’s Central Coast, the wines of Scythian Wine Co. can be sampled and purchased at Parr’s tasting rooms in Cambria, offering a direct opportunity to experience this exciting new wave of Palomino wines firsthand. This accessibility allows enthusiasts to engage directly with the winemakers and the stories behind these exceptional bottles, fostering a deeper appreciation for the craft and the remarkable grape.

The resurgence of unfortified Palomino wines is a testament to the dedication of visionary winemakers and the inherent quality of this historic grape. From the arid landscapes of South Africa to the volcanic soils of the Canary Islands and the ancient vineyards of California, Palomino is proving its mettle as a varietal capable of producing wines of exceptional character, complexity, and refreshment. As summer unfolds, reaching for a chilled Palomino is not just a choice; it’s an embrace of a wine renaissance.