Tuscany’s treasured islands: five to explore

Elba: The All-Year-Rounder

As Italy’s third-largest island, trailing only Sicily and Sardinia in size, Elba stands as the undisputed heart of the Tuscan archipelago’s tourism. Boasting a substantial year-round community, it seamlessly blends a rich tapestry of Napoleonic history with dramatic, rugged landscapes, vibrant seaside towns, and an array of exquisite beaches. Its fame is inextricably linked to Napoleon Bonaparte’s brief but impactful 1814 exile, during which he resided at the elegant Palazzina dei Mulini and the more rustic Villa San Martino. These sites, now museums, offer fascinating insights into his nine-month reign, revealing his attempts to modernize the island’s infrastructure and economy. Yet, Elba’s historical roots delve far deeper; its strategic location and abundant iron ore deposits attracted Etruscans and Romans, whose ancient mines and settlements still dot the landscape. Later, in the 16th century, the powerful Medici family fortified Portoferraio with imposing walls and bastions, such as Forte Falcone and Forte Stella, to defend against relentless pirate raids, creating a formidable stronghold that still dominates the harbor today. Inland, medieval hill towns like Marciana and Capoliveri stand proudly on sites continuously occupied since Roman times, offering glimpses into centuries of island life.

Elba’s coastline is a study in geological diversity, catering to every type of beach lover. In the north, near the largest town, Portoferraio, the pristine white-pebble coves of Sansone and Capo Bianco are renowned for their dazzlingly clear, turquoise waters, ideal for snorkeling and quiet contemplation. Moving to the south-west, beneath the towering granite mass of Monte Capanne – the island’s highest peak at 1,019 meters, accessible via a charming bird-cage-style cable car – lie the golden sands of Fetovaia and Cavoli. These popular beaches, with their sheltered bays and vibrant atmospheres, are perfect for families and sun-seekers. For those seeking more active pursuits, Marina di Campo on the south coast is a veritable hub for watersports, offering everything from paddleboarding and kayaking to scuba diving and jet-skiing. Windsurfing and sailing schools flourish in numerous resorts, from the chic bay of Procchio in the north to the expansive shores of Lacona in the south, leveraging the island’s favorable winds and protected coves.

Beyond the beaches, Elba is a hiker’s paradise. The challenging 36-mile (58km) Grande Traversata Elbana (GTE) traverses the entire island from Cavo in the north-east to Pomonte or Patresi on the west coast. This epic trail winds along breathtaking mountain ridges, through fragrant Mediterranean macchia, and past ancient chestnut groves and traditional villages, offering panoramic views of the archipelago and the mainland. Typically completed in three or four days, the GTE is best tackled in the mild temperatures of spring or autumn, when the wildflowers are in bloom or the autumn colors paint the landscape. For less strenuous activity, numerous shorter trails lead to hidden coves, historic lighthouses, and archaeological sites. The island also boasts a burgeoning wine industry, producing distinctive wines like Aleatico Passito, a sweet dessert wine, and offers opportunities for cycling, mountain biking, and even exploring the old iron mines.

Where to eat: In Portoferraio, Ristorante da Gianni is a long-standing favorite, celebrated for its handmade pasta, exquisitely fresh seafood, and traditional Elban cuisine. A must-try is their house specialty: orecchiette with prawns and courgettes, a dish that perfectly encapsulates the island’s flavors. In Marina di Campo, Da Piero offers seafood-focused dishes right on the beach, providing a quintessential Mediterranean dining experience with the sound of waves as your backdrop.
Where to stay: Near Fetovaia, Hotel Montemerlo (doubles from about £88 B&B) offers a relaxed, eco-conscious stay nestled among olive groves, blending comfort with a commitment to sustainability. In Marina di Campo, Hotel Punto Verde (doubles from about £90 B&B) is a charming family-run hotel conveniently located near the beach. On the dramatic west coast, Hotel Gallo Nero (doubles from £79) is another family-run establishment, offering stunning views overlooking the picturesque Capo Sant’Andrea Bay. For those preferring a central, historic setting, Indarsena (doubles from £86 B&B) occupies an elegant 18th-century building in Portoferraio’s historic center, just a 10-minute walk from several beaches.
Getting there: Ferries from Piombino on the Tuscan mainland to Portoferraio are frequent and take approximately an hour. Major operators include Toremar, Moby, and Blu Navy, offering a convenient and scenic journey.

Giglio: The Charming Isle

Just 21 square kilometers in area, Giglio, meaning "lily" in Italian (though its name likely derives from Aegilium, ancient Greek for "goat island"), is a compact yet immensely captivating island. Despite its modest size, it boasts three distinct villages, a scattering of secluded coves, an extensive and varied coastline, and a unique landscape shaped by historic terraced vineyards that cling to its rugged hillsides. The island’s commitment to preserving its peaceful atmosphere is evident in its strict vehicle restrictions during August, with exceptions only for longer stays. This policy, combined with an efficient network of buses and taxis linking the harbor, villages, and beaches, makes a car-free holiday not only feasible but highly enjoyable, allowing visitors to immerse themselves fully in Giglio’s tranquil rhythm.

Giglio’s topography is defined by its granite core, sculpted over millennia into dramatic cliffs and gentle slopes. From the bustling Giglio Porto, the island’s main entry point with its colorful row of houses and ancient Saracen tower, numerous trails invite exploration, leading to hidden coves and rewarding hilltop viewpoints. The true historical heart of the island lies inland at Giglio Castello, a magnificent fortified 12th-century hilltop village. Its labyrinthine medieval lanes, archways, and ancient walls create an enchanting atmosphere, perfect for a leisurely aperitivo or an evening stroll, offering breathtaking views of the sea and surrounding islands, particularly at sunset. The third village, Giglio Campese, on the north-west coast, is famous for its large beach and iconic 16th-century Torre del Campese, a striking silhouette against the setting sun.

Giglio’s beaches, while fewer than Elba’s, each possess a distinct character. Campese, the largest, is characterized by its reddish-gold sand and offers panoramic views of the historic tower and the open sea, making it a popular spot for both sunbathing and water activities. Cannelle, on the east coast, provides a gentler alternative with its pale, fine sand and crystalline, shallow waters, making it ideal for families. Further north, Arenella offers a picturesque blend of golden sand, smooth granite boulders, and exceptionally clear water, making it a favorite for snorkeling enthusiasts eager to explore the vibrant underwater world. Beyond these, numerous smaller coves, often accessible only by boat or challenging footpaths, promise ultimate seclusion and pristine conditions. The island’s indigenous grape, Ansonica, thrives on its terraced vineyards, producing a distinctive dry white wine that is a must-try for any visitor, reflecting Giglio’s deep connection to its land and history.

Where to eat: In Giglio Porto, Ristorante Doria is a renowned seafood restaurant, boasting a delightful sea-view terrace. Their spaghetti alla chitarra with sea urchin and toasted breadcrumbs is a highly recommended house specialty, showcasing fresh, local ingredients. In Campese, Da Zio Meino offers an authentic taste of cucina povera (peasant cooking), serving hearty and traditional dishes such as pancotti di mare (seafood dumplings) and spaghetti alle vongole e alla bottarga (spaghetti with clams and cured mullet roe), embodying the island’s culinary heritage.
Where to stay: Perched on a hillside overlooking Giglio Porto, B&B La Vela (doubles from £87 B&B) is a charming small guesthouse with maritime-themed interiors, offering a cozy and welcoming atmosphere. On a headland above Campese Bay, Le Poste di Simplicio (doubles from £100 B&B) is a family-run B&B that provides sweeping sea views and a tranquil retreat.
Getting there: Toremar or Maregiglio ferries operate regularly from Porto Santo Stefano on the mainland to Giglio Porto, with the journey taking approximately an hour, offering picturesque views as you approach the island.

Capraia: A Wild Hikers’ Paradise

Situated just over 20 miles (33km) north-west of Elba, Capraia stands as one of the Tuscan archipelago’s most remote and untamed islands. Its unique character stems from its volcanic origin, setting it apart geologically from its granite and limestone neighbors. This rugged, wild island, largely car-free with only a handful of roads, is a veritable paradise for hikers and nature enthusiasts. Its interior is best explored on foot, along ancient mule tracks that wind dramatically between towering sea cliffs, lead to secluded coves, and pass by formidable 16th-century Genoese fortifications. While taxi boats offer access to some of the more remote coastal spots and a single bus provides limited transport between the port and the village, the island’s primary mode of exploration remains walking, allowing for an intimate connection with its raw beauty.

Capraia’s landscape is a testament to its volcanic past, characterized by dramatic dark rock formations, deep coves, and a rich, fragrant Mediterranean macchia that covers much of its surface. Highlights for explorers include the striking red rock formations of Cala Rossa, a cove famed for its vivid crimson cliffs that plunge into the deep blue sea, creating a stunning natural spectacle. The formidable Genoese fortress of San Giorgio, perched majestically above the port, stands as a testament to centuries of strategic importance and offers incredible panoramic views. Further along the rugged coastline, the 16th-century Torre dello Zenòbito, another ancient watchtower, provides a sense of the island’s historical defenses against maritime threats. The island was also a penal colony until 1986, a past that paradoxically contributed to its preservation, as much of its territory remained undeveloped. Today, the remnants of the prison complex are integrated into the landscape, adding another layer to its intriguing history.

Given its rugged nature, traditional sandy beaches are a rarity on Capraia. However, swimmers can revel in the crystal-clear waters of Cala San Francesco, a picturesque cove easily accessible from the main village. For those willing to venture further, scenic hikes lead to the tranquil Cala del Ceppo and Cala dello Zurletto, offering rewarding dips in pristine natural pools. Alternatively, taxi boats provide convenient access to Spiaggia della Mortola, one of the few sandy stretches on the island, a welcome respite for beach lovers. Capraia’s marine environment is exceptionally rich and is a designated marine protected area, making it a prime destination for diving and snorkeling, where enthusiasts can explore vibrant underwater ecosystems and fascinating geological formations.

Where to eat: In the charming main village, Il Carabottino offers a truly authentic dining experience. Its fixed menu changes daily, dictated by the morning’s catch brought ashore by local fishers, ensuring unparalleled freshness and seasonality. Il Pigghiolo takes a more contemporary approach, artfully reworking traditional island flavors into innovative dishes such as squid parmigiana and delicate cod croquettes, appealing to a sophisticated palate.
Where to stay: Accommodation on Capraia is limited, enhancing its exclusive appeal. La Mandola Eco Hostel (doubles from £70 room-only) near the port serves as a restorative basecamp for walkers, beachgoers, and divers, offering a sheltered saltwater pool and a commitment to eco-friendly practices. In Capraia village, Il Saracino Boutique Suites (doubles from £130 B&B) provides a small, characterful retreat with stunning sea views, blending historic charm with modern comfort.
Getting there: The ferry from Livorno on the mainland is the primary access point, with Toremar operating services that take approximately 1 hour and 45 minutes, offering scenic views of the Tuscan coast and the open sea.

Pianosa: The Protected Isle

Pianosa, whose name literally means "flat" in Italian, stands in stark contrast to its mountainous neighbors, offering a low-lying, almost lunar landscape that is utterly unique within the archipelago. This island represents the pinnacle of environmental protection within the Tuscan Archipelago National Park, with daily visitor numbers rigorously restricted to safeguard its exceptionally fragile ecosystem and maintain its profoundly tranquil atmosphere. Access is a carefully managed privilege: visitors must either secure a ticket on the limited ferry service or, more commonly, join an authorized guided excursion. This exclusivity ensures that Pianosa remains an untouched sanctuary, where nature reigns supreme.

Pianosa’s history is as compelling as its ecology. From 1858 until 1998, the island served as a high-security penal colony, a past that, ironically, played a crucial role in its environmental preservation by limiting human impact for over a century. The abandoned prison buildings, with their stark architecture, stand as poignant reminders of this era, offering a unique glimpse into a bygone chapter. Even older are the island’s Roman remains, including remarkably preserved early Christian catacombs and the ruins of a grand Roman villa, Villa Agrippa, showcasing its ancient importance. The restored Casa dell’Agronomo and the Museo delle Scienze Geologiche e Archeologiche further explore Pianosa’s rich agricultural, geological, and archaeological heritage, providing valuable context for its unusual history and natural features.

Given its protected status, exploration on Pianosa is highly regulated and predominantly guided. Guided walks lead visitors through the island’s unique flora and fauna, including rare bird species that nest here. Cycling excursions offer a gentle way to traverse its flat terrain, while kayak excursions allow for a silent, respectful exploration of its pristine coastline. To further safeguard the delicate marine ecosystem, swimming is strictly limited to Cala Giovanna, a stunning sandy beach just an easy walk from the small port and the historic village. This restriction helps preserve the rich biodiversity of its surrounding waters, making it an exceptional destination for marine biologists and keen snorkelers who appreciate its protected status. The island’s only inhabited area is a small, picturesque village near the harbor, where the few facilities are managed by the cooperative that helps run the island’s sustainable tourism initiatives.

Where to eat: Da Brunello, located in the small harbor village, holds the unique distinction of being Pianosa’s only cafe and restaurant. It prides itself on a menu focused on exquisitely fresh fish, caught in the surrounding protected waters, and vegetables grown directly on the island, offering a true taste of local bounty.
Where to stay: Reflecting its exclusive nature, Pianosa offers only one accommodation option: Albergo Milena (doubles from £95 half-board). Close to Da Brunello and under the same management, this hotel provides simple yet comfortable rooms within a historic building, offering a rare opportunity for an overnight stay in this unique sanctuary.
Getting there: Authorized excursions from Elba are available with Acquavision, taking a swift 45 minutes. For those seeking a direct route from the mainland, limited Toremar ferry services run from Piombino to Pianosa, with a journey time of approximately three hours, often requiring advance booking due to strict visitor limits.

Giannutri: The Roadless Retreat

While Elba pulsates with the energy of holidaymakers and the buzz of Vespas, Giannutri offers a radical, almost monastic detox from modern life. This tiny, crescent-shaped limestone island, entirely car-free, is a testament to untamed Mediterranean beauty, where scent-heavy macchia slopes dramatically into ink-blue waters. It is the southernmost island of the archipelago and the smallest of the accessible ones, making its minimalist charm all the more profound. With only one restaurant-cafe, which also doubles as a small grocery shop, day-trippers are emphatically advised to bring their own water and lunch, underscoring Giannutri’s commitment to preserving its pristine, undeveloped state.

Giannutri’s allure lies in its unspoiled natural environment and its remarkable archaeological treasures. The island is renowned for its diving and snorkeling opportunities, as much of its coastline forms part of a strictly protected marine reserve, teeming with vibrant marine life and offering exceptional underwater visibility. Most visitors flock to the two main coves for swimming: Cala Spalmatoio, a sheltered natural harbor, and Cala Maestra, where ancient Roman ruins seamlessly merge with the beach. A guided tour of the spectacular Roman villa linked to the powerful Domitii Ahenobarbi family is an absolute must-do. This sprawling villa, dating back to the 1st or 2nd century AD, once boasted elaborate mosaics, thermal baths, and breathtaking sea views, offering a captivating glimpse into the luxurious lives of Rome’s elite. Its well-preserved remnants provide a powerful connection to the island’s ancient past.

The absence of roads defines the Giannutri experience. Exploration is primarily on foot, along narrow paths that wind through the fragrant Mediterranean scrub, leading to panoramic viewpoints and quiet corners. The island’s tranquillity is its greatest asset, providing a haven for those seeking solitude and a deep connection with nature. Beyond swimming and archaeological exploration, the emphasis here is on mindful relaxation, observing the abundant birdlife, and simply soaking in the serene atmosphere of this extraordinary roadless retreat. The limited infrastructure encourages a slower pace, forcing visitors to shed the distractions of the modern world and embrace the island’s inherent simplicity.

Where to eat: La Vela Giannutri is the island’s sole dining option, a vital hub that serves as both restaurant and small grocery. Its menu is dedicated to fresh, local seafood dishes, ranging from delicate tuna tartare to classic spaghetti alle vongole, ensuring a genuine taste of the Mediterranean.
Where to stay: Accommodation on Giannutri is exceptionally limited, further enhancing its sense of exclusivity. The family-run A Casa Diana (doubles from £123 B&B) offers simple yet charming rooms with enchanting sea views, providing an authentic island stay. Beyond this, a scattering of private holiday rentals can be found, but booking well in advance is essential due to high demand and limited availability.
Getting there: Maregiglio operates ferries from Porto Santo Stefano on the mainland, with the journey to Giannutri taking approximately an hour. Additionally, seasonal excursion boats are available, often combining a visit to Giannutri with a trip to its larger neighbor, Giglio, through Maregiglio’s popular mini-cruises in the summer months. These excursions are a fantastic way to experience the unique charm of both islands.