From Riviera Glamour to Alpine Grandeur: A Journey on the Train des Merveilles

On a bright Tuesday morning, the vibrant energy of Nice-Ville station pulsates with the rhythm of Côte d’Azur life. Commuters, laden with briefcases, navigate the bustling platforms alongside international backpackers, while trains depart eastward towards the glittering principality of Monaco and the sun-drenched Italian Riviera, or westward to the chic resorts of Antibes and Cannes. Yet, for a discerning pair of travelers, the allure of the azure coast temporarily fades, replaced by the irresistible call of the rugged interior. Our destination: the Alpes-Azur mountains, accessed via the legendary Train des Merveilles (Train of Wonders), a railway journey that promises a dramatic ascent from Mediterranean charm to untamed alpine beauty.

This remarkable railway line, meticulously restored and brought back into full operation last December after a year-long programme of extensive major works, stands as a testament to audacious engineering and a commitment to preserving an invaluable piece of regional heritage. It is widely celebrated as one of Europe’s most spectacular train routes, a two-hour odyssey that embarks on an impressive 1,000-metre climb over a mere 100 kilometers. The line serves as a vital artery, linking the cosmopolitan vibrancy of Nice with the remote, medieval stronghold of Tende, nestled deep within the dramatic, soaring peaks of the Mercantour National Park. This protected area, renowned for its pristine wilderness, diverse flora and fauna, and ancient rock engravings, forms the majestic backdrop to the train’s relentless upward trajectory.

Barely ten minutes after departing Nice-Ville, the urban sprawl of the city begins its gradual transformation. The concrete and stucco give way to a verdant landscape of low-lying hills, their slopes dotted with quintessential auburn-roofed villas that exude Provençal charm. Groves of ancient chestnut trees, their branches gnarled with age, punctuate the scenery, hinting at the region’s rich agricultural past and the bounty of its seasonal harvests. As the train embarks on its serious ascent, the sheer scale of the engineering challenge undertaken to construct and maintain this line, which first broke ground in 1883, becomes strikingly apparent. More than a century later, the line remains a marvel of human ingenuity, navigating a notoriously difficult mountainous terrain.

The track itself is an intricate tapestry of over 100 bridges and towering viaducts, each an architectural feat designed to span deep ravines and turbulent rivers. Almost as numerous are the tunnels and robust retaining walls, essential for carving a path through solid rock and shoring up the mountainsides against the relentless forces of erosion and gravity. Perhaps the most celebrated features of this engineering marvel are the ingenious helical loop tunnels. These spiraling passages allow the train to gain significant altitude by coiling inwards, tracing a series of bends within the very heart of the mountains, an elegant solution to an otherwise impossible climb. This intricate design not only ensures a continuous upward gradient but also offers passengers mesmerizing, ever-changing perspectives of the landscape as the train emerges from one tunnel only to plunge into another.

The journey quickly evolves into a truly breathtaking ride. The initially gentle hills steadily gain height and heft, their contours becoming sharper, more defined. Gradually, a magnificent mountainscape begins to unfurl before the panoramic windows of the train, revealing a world of raw, untamed beauty. Jagged peaks, often snow-capped even into late spring, pierce the azure sky, their formidable presence dwarfing the winding valley road below, which appears as little more than a thin, delicate ribbon clinging precariously to the mountain’s flank. The air perceptibly cools, and the Mediterranean scent of pine and wild herbs gives way to the crisp, clean aroma of the high Alps.

While many intrepid passengers opt to ride the Train des Merveilles straight to its terminus in Tende, eager to embark on the myriad hiking trails that spiderweb from the town into the Mercantour, our itinerary called for a more leisurely exploration of the valley’s hidden gems. Our first disembarkation point was Sospel, a charming medieval town whose history is deeply intertwined with the ancient trade routes that once crisscrossed these mountains. The town is famously bisected by the Bévéra River, gracefully spanned by the 13th-century Pont-Vieux, a fortified bridge that served as a crucial toll point in centuries past. On the day of our visit, Sospel was alive with the vibrant energy of market day. Despite its modest size, the town square teemed with activity, stalls overflowing with an intoxicating array of local produce: vibrant flowers, fresh vegetables, colossal wheels of artisanal cheese, and a tantalizing selection of freshly baked breads, their crusts golden and fragrant. We ambled through the quiet, cobblestone streets, marveling at the crumbling facades of Baroque churches and the imposing, Gothic-style houses that spoke of a rich and often turbulent history. It was astounding to realize that we were barely an hour’s journey from the bustling metropolis of Nice; Sospel, with its timeless atmosphere and distinct architectural character, felt as though it belonged to an entirely different region of France, a testament to the dramatic geographical and cultural shifts within the Alpes-Maritimes department.

As the train continued its upward journey, the sensation of stepping back in time intensified with each passing kilometer. Our next stop was La Brigue, often referred to as a gateway to the Mercantour National Park. Here, the labyrinthine tangle of medieval streets felt as if they were just beginning to stir from a prolonged winter slumber, a poignant reminder of the region’s seasonal rhythms. La Brigue, like many of its mountain counterparts, truly awakens in the warmer months, transforming into a vibrant hub as hikers, mountaineers, and nature enthusiasts descend upon it. However, La Brigue’s most compelling claim to fame lies a couple of miles outside the town center: the exquisite Chapel of Our Lady of Fountains (Notre-Dame des Fontaines). This sacred site, named for the seven natural springs that gently trickle through the nearby rocks, holds a special place in local folklore. Parts of the church date back to the 13th century, a period when, according to cherished local legend, villagers constructed it as a profound expression of gratitude to the Virgin Mary, whose divine intervention was believed to have answered their fervent prayers for a new, life-sustaining water source for La Brigue. While the chapel’s exterior presents an unassuming, rustic facade, its interior is nothing short of extraordinary. Its walls and ceiling are completely enveloped by a breathtaking cycle of 15th-century frescoes, masterfully executed by the Piedmontese artist Giovanni Canavesio. These vivid, intensely narrative murals depict scenes from the Passion of Christ and the Last Judgment with such dramatic intensity and intricate detail that the church has rightfully earned the moniker "the Sistine Chapel of the Southern Alps," a designation that speaks volumes about its artistic and spiritual significance.

By the time our journey culminated in Tende, the final stop on the Train des Merveilles, we found ourselves approximately 800 meters above sea level. The air was remarkably crisp and clean, and the bustling sounds of the Riviera had been replaced by a profound, clear silence, broken only by the whisper of the wind through the densely wooded slopes that climbed towards the imposing high peaks of the Ligurian Alps. Tende itself is a visually striking town, its ancient houses clinging precariously to the mountainside, a mosaic of stone and terracotta roofs against the dramatic backdrop. We navigated the modern main street, which seamlessly transitions into the clustered, medieval houses of the old town, eventually making our way to the evocative ruins of Château Lascaris. From this elevated vantage point, the panoramic views were nothing short of spectacular, stretching across vast valleys and encompassing the distant, rugged peaks of the Marguareis massif, marking the final mountain barrier before the Italian border. The climb to the château was a rewarding physical exertion, and afterwards, we indulged in a well-deserved culinary reward: mammoth croque monsieurs at Stella Alpina, a delightful establishment that cleverly combines an outdoor equipment shop with a rustic eatery. Around us, hearty-looking cyclists in their bright Lycra gear refueled with pints of local lager and generous platters of regional cheese and cured meats, embodying the active, outdoor spirit of the region.

Much restored by our hearty lunch, we dipped into the Musée des Merveilles (Museum of Wonders). Here, through a combination of exhibits and our fractured French, we gleaned fascinating insights into the region’s ancient past. The area around Tende is home to one of Europe’s largest Neolithic and Bronze Age rock-engraving sites, the Vallée des Merveilles, a vast open-air gallery of prehistoric art etched into the rock faces by early inhabitants. The town’s more recent history, spanning from the Middle Ages to the 18th century, is inextricably linked to the "Salt Road" (Via del Sale), a vital mule train route that connected the Piedmontese Alps with the Ligurian coast. Tende, strategically built as the last major French stop-off along this crucial trade artery, served as a bustling commercial hub. This historical context partly explains why a town of such significant size and historical importance came to be established in such an isolated, mountainous location, thriving on the commerce that passed through its gates.

The following morning, we found ourselves back in the embrace of Nice, ready to explore the contrasting allure of the Côte d’Azur coastline. The seamless efficiency of the regional train network proved to be an unexpected bonus, allowing for effortless exploration. A mere 40-minute journey along the coast transported us to Antibes. Here, we strolled along the picturesque marina, admiring the gleaming yachts that bobbed gently in the turquoise waters, a stark contrast to the rugged beauty of the mountains. We then ascended to the 16th-century ramparts, where we found a sun-drenched spot to watch the exhilarating spectacle of kitesurfers gracefully carving arcs across the bay. Lunch was enjoyed at a charming restaurant on the bustling Place Nationale. I savored a plate of crispy fritto misto, a delightful medley of mixed fried seafood, while strategically trying to ignore my husband’s enthusiastic consumption of buttery, garlicky snails, a classic French delicacy. The very next day, a quick ten-minute hop eastward brought us to Beaulieu-sur-Mer for lunch. This elegant town exudes an unmistakable Belle Époque glamour, its streets lined with magnificent villas and grand hotels that recall a golden age of Riviera tourism. The Plage de la Petite Afrique, with its pristine sands and tranquil waters, provided the perfect setting for a refreshing paddle and a truly exquisite pile of mussels, luxuriantly prepared with cream and garlic.

Food, inevitably, played a significant and memorable role in our time spent in Nice itself. Despite the old town’s well-deserved reputation as a tourist hotspot, we unearthed two absolute culinary gems. A local recommendation led us to Acchiardo, a venerable institution where the fourth generation of the Acchiardo family continues to serve up authentic Niçoise classics. We indulged in dishes such as daube Niçoise, a rich, slow-cooked beef stew infused with red wine, vegetables, and herbs, and succulent duck breast accompanied by a delicate fig sauce – a true taste of Provençal tradition. Our second discovery, Les Bar Des Oiseaux, was a delightful stumble-upon. This quintessential bistro radiated classic charm, its wood-paneled walls adorned with flawless reproductions of artworks by a diverse pantheon of masters, from the surrealism of Joan Miró to the vibrant pop art of Roy Lichtenstein and the abstract expressionism of Paul Klee. Here, my bourride, a traditional Provençal fish stew, stood out as one of the most delicious dishes I have ever had the pleasure of tasting, a perfect symphony of fresh seafood and aromatic saffron-infused broth.

And that, truly, is the profound beauty and enduring appeal of Nice. It is not merely a captivating destination in its own right, a city of vibrant markets, sun-drenched promenades, and artistic heritage, but also an extraordinary gateway to vastly different worlds, all within easy reach by train. The Train des Merveilles stands unarguably as the highlight of this diverse region; those extraordinary twists and turns, the masterful engineering that defies the landscape, the unfolding grandiose scenery – wild, untouched, and utterly distinct from the bustling, sophisticated streets of Nice. To pack such a diverse array of experiences – from the high-altitude tranquility of the Mercantour to the coastal elegance of the Riviera – into one short trip is to truly make the very most of this profoundly beautiful region; a journey des merveilles indeed, leaving an indelible impression of France’s multifaceted allure.

The trip was generously provided by Mama Shelter hotels and the Nice Côte d’Azur tourist board. Doubles at Mama Shelter Nice are available from £114 B&B. The Train des Merveilles runs daily from June to September, with a knowledgeable onboard guide accompanying the 9:30 AM departure, offering insights into the history, engineering, and natural beauty of the route. A regional rail day pass, the Ter Zou!, covering the Train des Merveilles and other regional lines, is priced at a convenient €20, providing excellent value for exploring the Alpes-Maritimes department.