‘It’s one huge adventure playground’: readers’ best summer trips in the lakes and mountains of Europe

Alpine Serenity: Haldensee in the Austrian Alps

Nestled at the foot of the picturesque Tannheimer Tal valley, approximately 90 miles southwest of Munich, lies Haldensee, a clear, sparkling cold lake that epitomizes late summer Alpine beauty. While the water, even as summer wanes, proves bracingly cold for all but the most intrepid swimmers, the surrounding landscape beckons to hikers. The Tannheimer Tal, a high-altitude valley in Tyrol, Austria, is renowned for its unspoiled nature and panoramic views, making it a prime destination for outdoor enthusiasts.

A convenient ski lift provides effortless ascent into the Allgäu Alps, part of the Northern Limestone Alps, opening up a network of trails. Here, hikers can immerse themselves in dense, fragrant forests, traversing paths that lead to charming mountain refuges. One such haven is the Bad Kissinger Hütte, a traditional Alpine hut perched at an elevation of 1,788 meters (5,866 feet). More than just a stopover, the hut offers a quintessential Alpine experience. Weary hikers are greeted with refreshing apfelschorle (apple spritzer), a popular thirst-quencher, alongside an array of warming, regional soups, and delectable seasonal bakes. These culinary delights provide the perfect fuel for the journey, embodying the hearty hospitality characteristic of Alpine culture.

The descent from the heights often provides its own unique moments of enchantment. Last year’s visit was made particularly memorable by the gentle, rhythmic tinkling of cattle bells, accompanying the hikers as the cows ambled leisurely along mountain-side springs. This pastoral symphony, set against the backdrop of verdant slopes and dramatic peaks, is a sensory reminder of the harmonious coexistence between nature and traditional Alpine farming, transforming a simple walk into an unforgettable experience. The late summer light casts long shadows, enhancing the dramatic contours of the mountains and painting the sky in hues of gold and amber, creating a truly magical atmosphere.

The Thrill of Lake Garda’s Mountain Tracks, Italy

Further south, the northern reaches of Lake Garda, Italy, present a contrasting, yet equally captivating, mountain experience. Where the towering mountains dramatically plunge into the lake’s azure waters, this region transforms into a vast adventure playground. It’s a magnet for those seeking an adrenaline rush or simply a varied outdoor escape. The diverse landscape supports a plethora of activities: challenging hikes ascend to breathtaking viewpoints, cycling trails cater to all levels, rock climbing routes scale sheer cliffs, and the lake itself is a hub for every imaginable watersport, from windsurfing and sailing to paddleboarding.

Beyond the natural pursuits, the area is rich in history and culture, boasting ancient castles perched precariously on hillsides, hidden waterfalls cascading into crystal-clear pools, and scenic valley cycle paths that wind through charming villages. Among these, the old Strada del Ponale stands out as a particular highlight for both cyclists and walkers. This historic mountain road, originally carved out in the mid-19th century to connect Riva del Garda with the Ledro Valley, is a marvel of engineering and natural beauty. It spectacularly winds through a series of hand-hewn tunnels and clings precariously to the rock face, offering continuously evolving, panoramic views over the shimmering lake below. While challenging in parts, particularly the uphill sections, it’s highly recommended for e-bikers, who can effortlessly conquer the inclines and fully immerse themselves in the scenery.

Midway along this iconic path, the Ponale Alto Belvedere restaurant offers a well-deserved respite. Here, visitors can indulge in hearty Italian pasta dishes, crafted with local ingredients, perfectly complemented by a refreshing local beer or a glass of regional wine. The terrace provides an unparalleled vantage point for soaking in the expansive lake and mountain vistas before embarking on the exhilarating downhill return journey. The combination of historical significance, engineering prowess, and sheer natural beauty makes the Strada del Ponale a truly iconic European mountain track, especially vibrant in the late summer when the weather is ideal for prolonged outdoor activity.

Swiss Bliss: Discovering La Fouly near Mont Blanc

For those who prefer to sidestep the bustling crowds of more famous Alpine resorts like Chamonix, the serene village of La Fouly in southwest Switzerland offers an idyllic alternative. Situated within the Val Ferret, just to the east of the formidable Mont Blanc massif, La Fouly serves as a tranquil yet accessible base for exploring some of Europe’s most spectacular mountain scenery. It is, indeed, a significant hub for a section of the renowned Tour du Mont Blanc, a multi-day circumnavigation of the Mont Blanc range. However, its expansive network of trails ensures that many routes remain gloriously uncrowded, offering moments of profound solitude amidst nature.

Hikers have a wealth of options, ranging from gentle strolls along the valley floor to challenging ascents. A particularly rewarding trek leads to the pristine Lacs de Fenêtre, a series of high-altitude lakes that offer stunning reflections of the surrounding peaks. This pristine wilderness is also a haven for unique Alpine wildlife. Early risers might be fortunate enough to hear the distinctive gurgling calls of rock ptarmigans at first light, while the high-pitched shrieks of marmots often punctuate the peaceful descent back into the valley, adding a wild, untamed dimension to the experience.

For accommodation, Camping des Glaciers in La Fouly provides a truly immersive experience. Nestled by cool, fast-flowing rivers, the campsite allows visitors to fall asleep to the soothing sounds of nature and wake up surrounded by crisp mountain air and unparalleled views. The region, part of the canton of Valais, is known for its dramatic landscapes, charming traditional villages, and rich local culture, providing an authentic Swiss mountain escape that feels both remote and welcoming. Late summer here sees the high meadows still vibrant with alpine flora, while the first hints of autumn begin to dust the highest peaks, creating a tapestry of greens, yellows, and grays.

Meadows and Cowbells: Slovenia’s Logar Valley

Slovenia’s Logar Valley (Logarska Dolina) is a testament to the country’s commitment to preserving its natural heritage, offering a tranquil retreat where the loudest sound is often the gentle chime of a cowbell. Tucked away in the heart of the Kamnik-Savinja Alps, this glacial valley is celebrated for its breathtaking beauty and unspoiled character. A narrow road meanders through expansive, flower-filled meadows, leading visitors deeper into the embrace of the majestic peaks. However, the valley’s true essence is best discovered on foot or by bicycle, allowing for a slower, more intimate connection with its serene landscapes.

Along these paths, visitors encounter numerous small, family-run farms that dot the valley. These farms offer a taste of authentic Slovenian rural life, selling homemade cheese, freshly pressed apple juice, and other local produce directly to passersby. It’s an opportunity to savor the flavors of the region and support sustainable local agriculture. An easy, well-marked trail guides hikers to the magnificent Rinka waterfall, where water plunges an impressive 90 meters (295 feet) down a sheer rock face, creating a refreshing mist and a powerful natural spectacle.

After exploring, the valley’s mountain inns provide perfect spots to linger over a traditional lunch, enjoying the sweeping views of the surrounding Alps. These inns often serve hearty Slovenian dishes, prepared with ingredients sourced from the local farms, offering a true farm-to-table experience. An overnight stay in a family-run guesthouse reveals another layer of the Logar Valley’s charm. As early evening descends and day visitors depart, the valley settles into an almost profound silence, broken only by the chirping of swallows darting overhead and the contented grazing of cattle in the twilight. This profound sense of peace and connection to nature is what makes Logar Valley a truly special late summer destination.

Dragonflies and Lilies: Italy’s Secret Lake, Lago di Monate

In the verdant landscape northwest of Milan, nestled between the more famous and bustling lakes of Maggiore and di Varese, lies the spring-fed Lago di Monate, a true hidden gem of Italy. What sets this lake apart, and contributes to its possibly freshest swimming water in Italy, is a long-standing and rigorously enforced ban on motorboats. This ecological foresight has preserved the lake’s pristine quality and tranquil ambiance, making it a sanctuary for nature lovers and those seeking peaceful recreation.

The calm, clear surface of Lago di Monate is perfect for paddleboarding, a popular activity that allows visitors to glide silently across the water to vast lily beds. In summer, these beds burst into vibrant bloom, transforming parts of the lake into a floating garden, teeming with life. Dragonflies, with their iridescent wings, flit gracefully among the lilies, adding to the enchanting spectacle. The absence of motorboat noise ensures an undisturbed experience, where the sounds of nature prevail.

Along its shores, establishments like Il Coppale in Cadrezzate offer a quintessential lakeside experience without the exorbitant prices often associated with Italy’s larger lakes. Here, a grassy beach, complete with sunbeds and umbrellas, provides a comfortable spot for relaxation and swimming. The evening meal at Il Coppale is a particular highlight, featuring fresh fish caught locally, served on a terrace with panoramic views over the lake and distant Alps. At approximately €25, it offers exceptional value for a delightful dining experience. Lago di Monate truly embodies the serene, untouched beauty that discerning travelers seek, especially in the late summer when the water is still inviting, and the landscape is lush and vibrant.

Alpine Ambience in Bavaria: Ruhpolding and Beyond

For travelers seeking an authentic Alpine experience on a reasonable budget during the autumnal transition, the outdoorsy town of Ruhpolding in Upper Bavaria, Germany, emerges as a compelling choice. This charming destination immediately delivers a quintessential Alpine atmosphere, characterized by its unpretentious ambience and stunning natural surroundings. Ruhpolding is not just a base for hiking but a vibrant hub for outdoor activities, boasting an impressive waterpark for family fun and access to cool, crystalline lakes such as Lödensee and Weitsee.

The region’s hiking trails wind through classical Alpine scenery, leading adventurers to traditional alms – mountain refuges nestled in high meadows. These rustic establishments offer a warm welcome and a taste of local Bavarian hospitality, serving refreshing local milk, regional beers, and generous platters of cured meats and artisanal cheeses. Such stops are integral to the hiking experience, providing not only sustenance but also an authentic cultural immersion into the pastoral traditions of the Bavarian Alps.

A short journey further afield expands the possibilities, with the expansive Chiemsee, Bavaria’s largest lake, offering a day at the "Bavarian Sea." Its vastness and sandy shores provide a unique beach experience against an Alpine backdrop. For those arriving or departing via Munich, a stop in the vibrant state capital is highly recommended. The city offers a blend of historical charm and modern attractions, including the excellent BMW Museum, a portion of which can be enjoyed free of charge, providing an unexpected cultural counterpoint to the mountain adventures. Ruhpolding and its surroundings offer a rich tapestry of experiences, from strenuous hikes to leisurely lakeside days, all steeped in the welcoming embrace of Bavarian Alpine culture.

Cycling the Velosud: The Pyrenees Foothills

For those who desire the majestic scenery of mountains without the arduous task of cycling directly up or down their formidable slopes, the Velosud route in the foothills of the French Pyrenees offers a perfect solution. This carefully curated cycling trip allows for two weeks of leisurely exploration, following well-signposted paths that often run alongside picturesque rivers, ensuring breathtaking mountain views greet riders every day. The route’s design prioritizes comfort and accessibility, primarily utilizing traffic-free paths or very quiet country roads, making it suitable for a wide range of cyclists.

The Velosud meanders through a rich tapestry of landscapes and historical towns. Cyclists can discover charming spa towns like Salies-du-Salat, renowned for its therapeutic waters, or explore the architectural beauty of Foix, with its dramatic château, and the medieval splendor of Mirepoix. These towns offer cultural insights and opportunities for delightful detours. Accommodation along the route typically consists of lovely, low-key yet well-equipped campsites. These often feature refreshing swimming pools – a welcome amenity after a day of cycling – and offer local delights such as an aperitif in the evening and freshly baked croissants for breakfast, adding to the relaxed holiday atmosphere.

This route provides a unique way to experience the grandeur of the Pyrenees, allowing cyclists to appreciate the scale and beauty of the mountains from a comfortable distance. It combines physical activity with cultural immersion, passing through regions rich in history and natural beauty, making it an ideal late summer escape for active travelers who appreciate a more gentle approach to mountain exploration.

A Cross-Border Trek: The Camino Francés

The Camino de Santiago, specifically the Camino Francés, offers one of Europe’s most iconic and deeply rewarding long-distance treks, a journey that intertwines physical challenge with spiritual reflection. Having traversed close to 2,000 kilometers of the Camino, from the majestic Pyrenees to the rugged Galician coast and along the crashing waves of the Atlantic Portuguese coast, one segment stands out for its sheer beauty and intensity: the crossing from the French Pyrenean town of St-Jean-Pied-de-Port to the Spanish village of Roncesvalles.

This initial stretch of the Camino Francés is famously one of the most demanding. It involves a very tough climb over the Pyrenees, ascending from St-Jean-Pied-de-Port (170m) to the high mountain pass of Col de Roncevaux (1,450m). Despite the significant physical effort required, the experience is universally considered well worth it. The early morning mist, a common feature in these mountains, often creates an ethereal atmosphere. As hikers ascend and eventually break through the cloud line, the panoramic views that unfold are truly breathtaking. The world below appears as a sea of clouds, with mountain peaks rising like islands, a sight that often evokes a profound sense of wonder and achievement.

The descent into Roncesvalles marks not only a physical transition but also a symbolic crossing into Spain and deeper into the historical pilgrimage route. This particular segment of the Camino is celebrated not just for its physical demands but for the profound emotional and spiritual impact it has on pilgrims. The solitude of the mountains, the shared camaraderie with fellow travelers, and the awe-inspiring natural beauty combine to create a truly spectacular and unforgettable experience, solidifying its place as a highlight of any European mountain adventure.

Tuscany’s Wild Side: The Alpi Apuane

Often overshadowed by the rolling vineyards and cypress-lined hills of typical Tuscan imagery, the Alpi Apuane represent Tuscany’s wild, untamed side – a raw, jagged cluster of marble peaks that remain surprisingly little-known. These dramatic mountains form a stunning, almost surreal backdrop to the more conventional bucket-and-spade beaches of northern Tuscany and inland from La Spezia, Liguria. Their distinct character and imposing presence offer a stark contrast to the region’s softer landscapes.

The Alpi Apuane are a hiker’s paradise, laced with challenging trails that cater to experienced trekkers. Among these is the multi-day Via Vandelli, a historic 18th-century road carved through the mountains, linking Modena to the Ligurian coast. This route provides a fascinating journey through engineering history and natural beauty. Beyond the grand trails, the valleys of the Apuane shelter quiet, refreshing streams and a scattering of half-forgotten villages, where time seems to have slowed, preserving ancient traditions and a peaceful way of life.

Above the treeline, hikers are rewarded with expansive, breathtaking views that stretch across the rugged mountain ranges, out to the shimmering Tyrrhenian Sea, and encompass the surreal, blindingly white marble quarries. These quarries, from which the world’s most famous marble has been hewn for millennia, are themselves a dramatic testament to human interaction with this formidable landscape. The stark beauty of the mountainsides, sculpted by both nature and industry, creates a truly unique visual experience. The Alpi Apuane offer a compelling invitation to explore a lesser-known, yet incredibly rewarding, facet of Italy’s diverse topography, particularly appealing in the late summer when the air is clear and the trails are inviting.

Winning Tip: The Vosges Mountains by Train

The Vosges mountains in eastern France, distinguished by their forest-covered, rounded peaks known as ballons, offer an accessible and delightful hiking destination, particularly appealing for those who prefer to travel by train. The railway line connecting the picturesque town of Colmar to Metzeral provides excellent access deep into this natural park, allowing hikers to easily reach trailheads without the need for a car.

One of the prime areas for exploration is the Wormsa valley, where well-maintained forest paths gently climb alongside babbling streams. These paths lead to tranquil havens such as the peaceful Lac du Fischboedle, a small, serene lake entirely surrounded by dense trees, offering a perfect spot for quiet contemplation or a picnic. For those seeking a more challenging ascent and panoramic rewards, a climb to Hohneck, the third highest mountain in the Vosges at 1,363 meters (4,472 feet), is highly recommended. From its summit, hikers are treated to sweeping views that, on a clear day, extend all the way to the distant Alps, creating a truly memorable vista.

Beyond the natural beauty, the Vosges region is celebrated for its delicious local cuisine, a delightful fusion of French and German influences. A must-try specialty is tarte flambée, also known as flammekueche, a traditional thin flatbread generously topped with crème fraîche, thinly sliced onions, and crispy bacon. This savory dish, often enjoyed with local wine or beer, is the perfect culinary reward after a day of hiking. The combination of accessible trails, stunning natural scenery, and delectable regional food makes the Vosges mountains an exceptional late summer destination for an immersive and culturally rich outdoor adventure.

These diverse mountain escapes across Europe, each offering its unique blend of natural beauty, cultural encounters, and invigorating activities, prove that late summer is an ideal time to explore the continent’s elevated landscapes. From challenging treks to leisurely cycles, and from refreshing swims to hearty meals in mountain refuges, the opportunities for adventure and rejuvenation are boundless.