‘I never imagined such pleasure could be had from the simple sardine’: readers’ favourite foodie experiences in Europe

The experience was more than just a meal; it was an immersion. I settled onto a simple bench at one of the communal tables, sharing space and conversation with locals who radiated warmth and hospitality. The prevailing sentiment was clear: the true essence of food lay not just in its taste, but in the shared enjoyment. This spirit is the very soul of the Algarve’s famed sardine festival, an annual celebration that transforms Portimão into a hub of gastronomic delight and cultural vibrancy.

The following morning, the town unveiled a spectacle that further deepened my appreciation for this humble fish. A reenactment of fishing boats arriving, laden with the day’s catch as they once did in centuries past, unfolded before a captivated audience. The scene was alive with the rhythmic strumming of guitars, the insistent beat of drums, and the excited cries of seagulls whirling and wailing overhead, hoping for their share of the bounty. This historical tableau segued seamlessly into the broader festivities of the sardine festival, which is one of Portugal’s largest and most anticipated annual events. Typically held in the first week of August, it pays homage to Portimão’s historical role as a leading sardine fishing and canning port. The festival grounds, usually centered around the riverside, come alive with music concerts and traditional dancing that animate the town well into the night. Beyond the sheer joy of grilled sardines, the festival offered an array of culinary explorations. Cooking demonstrations showcased innovative ways to prepare the fish, while various stalls and restaurants presented dishes ranging from comforting sardine-based soups to refreshing sardine salads, adding layers of enjoyment to the experience. It was a revelation; I had never imagined such profound pleasure could be had from the simple sardine, a testament to the Algarve’s ability to turn a regional delicacy into an unforgettable cultural feast.

A family dinner in the Faroe Islands

My wife and I embarked on a journey to the remote and rugged Faroe Islands a few years ago, seeking experiences that delved beyond the typical tourist trails. What we discovered was heimablídni, a concept that proved to be one of the most authentic and enriching ways to truly experience the Faroes. Heimablídni, which translates roughly to "home hospitality," is an initiative that invites visitors into the homes of local Faroese families to share a traditional meal. It’s more than just a dinner; it’s a unique cultural exchange, offering an intimate glimpse into Faroese life and traditions that simply cannot be found in a restaurant setting.

The culinary traditions of the Faroe Islands are shaped by their isolated, windswept environment. With limited arable land, Faroese cuisine has historically relied heavily on the bounty of the surrounding North Atlantic and the hardy sheep that roam its dramatic landscapes. Preservation techniques like fermentation, drying, and smoking are central to their culinary heritage, creating distinct, robust flavors. Our heimablídni hosts served us an array of homecooked dishes, each a testament to the islands’ natural larder. We savored succulent smoked salmon, cured in the host’s own smoker, offering a depth of flavor that spoke of meticulous preparation and quality. This was complemented by tender lamb, likely from sheep that freely graze the islands’ verdant hillsides, imparting a unique, earthy taste. Alongside these proteins, we enjoyed comforting potatoes and other traditional specialties, all prepared with the care and authenticity of generations-old recipes.

Sitting around a family table, sharing stories and laughter, truly made the experience feel deeply personal and authentic. Our hosts were incredibly generous with their time and knowledge, engaging us in fascinating conversations about Faroese life, its challenges, its unique customs, and the strong sense of community that binds these islands together. This intimate setting fostered a genuine connection, allowing us to understand the culture not just through taste, but through personal narrative and shared human experience. Heimablídni stands as a powerful example of how food can serve as a bridge, connecting travelers to the heart and soul of a destination.

A vegan feast in Sicily

As a vegan with an insatiable love for exploring local cuisines, I often approach new destinations with a mix of excitement and trepidation, wondering if my dietary choices will limit my gastronomic adventures. However, Sicily, with its warm, effusive hospitality and a surprisingly high proportion of locals who are lactose intolerant (leading to many naturally dairy-free options), proved to be an ideal foodie getaway, far exceeding my expectations.

Our Sicilian adventure began with an invigorating hike to the summit of Monte Pellegrino, a majestic mountain overlooking Palermo. After ascending in the scorching 35°C heat, we were more than ready for refreshment. Descending into the city, we stumbled upon a small, unassuming street-food shop – serendipitously, the only place open at that particular moment. It was a stroke of luck that led us to a delightful discovery: panelle. These delicious, crispy chickpea-flour fritters, served hot in soft sesame bread, are a quintessential Palermitan street food, tracing their origins back to Arab rule in Sicily. Naturally vegan and incredibly satisfying, they offered the perfect savory crunch. We enjoyed our panelle overlooking the picturesque Palermo harbor, the salty air and vibrant city sounds enhancing every bite.

That evening, our culinary journey continued to Haiku, a vegan restaurant that has garnered a reputation for its inventive approach to traditional Sicilian and Italian cuisine. Haiku specializes in reimagining classic dishes, transforming familiar flavors like carbonara and tiramisu into exquisite plant-based versions without sacrificing authenticity or taste. The ingenuity was astounding, from the rich, creamy texture of the "carbonara" (achieved without eggs or dairy) to the decadent layers of the "tiramisu" (crafted with plant-based creams). Each course was a revelation, so exquisitely prepared and flavorful that we found ourselves continually ordering "just one more," until we were utterly replete, barely able to move. Sicily, often celebrated for its rich, meat and cheese-laden dishes, proved to be a surprising haven for vegan gastronomy, showcasing how ancient culinary traditions and modern innovation can harmoniously coexist to create truly memorable dining experiences.

Strong spirits and small plates in Greece

The vibrant city of Volos, nestled on the Pagasetic Gulf, holds a distinct culinary identity within Greece, largely centered around its famed Tsipouradika. These aren’t just tavernas; they are institutions, social hubs where a unique ritual of food and drink unfolds. The very name Tsipouradika comes from tsipouro, a potent spirit distilled from grape pomace – the stems, skins, and seeds left over from winemaking, akin to Italian grappa. This robust spirit is typically served either plain, showcasing its raw, fiery character, or infused with botanicals and anise, which gives it a cloudiness when water is added. It’s always presented with ice and a glass of water, meant to be sipped slowly.

The magic of the Tsipouradika experience lies in its unique serving tradition: with each glass of tsipouro you order, a different small plate, or meze, arrives at your table. This isn’t a menu-driven affair; it’s a delightful game of culinary pot luck, where the patron’s whim dictates the day’s offerings. The anticipation is part of the charm. One could receive perfectly grilled peppers, their sweetness caramelized and smoky, or perhaps oktapodi xidato, tender sundried octopus marinated in vinegar, a coastal delicacy. A fiery tyrokafteri, a spicy cheese spread, might make an appearance, its creamy heat a perfect counterpoint to the spirit. Or, on another round, delicate flakes of smoked mackerel, rich and savory. The beauty of this system is the constant discovery and variety, encouraging a leisurely pace of eating and drinking that fosters conversation and camaraderie. It’s a truly communal and spontaneous way to dine, where the focus is as much on the shared experience and lively discussion as it is on the delicious bites. Volos’s Tsipouradika culture is a testament to Greek hospitality and the joy of simple, flavorful pairings that elevate a drink into a prolonged, memorable social event.

The perfect snack to pair with Lithuanian beer

In the historic and charming capital of Vilnius, our culinary exploration led us to a revelation: the ultimate food pairing for the city’s fantastic and diverse beer scene. This came in the form of kepta duona, a deceptively simple yet utterly addictive dish of deep-fried rye bread, typically served with garlic and cheese. Lithuania boasts a rich and ancient beer-making tradition, with a thriving craft beer scene that offers everything from traditional farmhouse ales to innovative modern brews. Finding the perfect accompaniment to these often robust and flavorful beers is key to a complete tasting experience, and kepta duona delivers spectacularly.

Every bar, from traditional taverns to trendy pubs in Vilnius, seems to have its own cherished version of kepta duona, a testament to its popularity and cultural significance. While the core elements – rye bread, deep-frying, garlic, and cheese – remain constant, the variations are endless and delightful. Some establishments might serve the bread with raw, pungent garlic rubbed generously over the warm, crispy slices, while others opt for a milder roast garlic, or even a sweet, mellow confit garlic infused in olive oil. The accompanying sauce or topping also varies widely, from a cooling dollop of sour cream to a rich, melted cheese sauce, or simply a generous grating of a hard, salty cheese. The rye bread itself, dense and flavorful, holds up beautifully to the frying, achieving a perfect balance of crispy exterior and chewy interior. This "heavenly snack" is so satisfying, so perfectly seasoned and textured, that it could very easily transition from a mere accompaniment to a standalone main meal, especially when enjoyed alongside several pints of exceptional Lithuanian beer. Kepta duona isn’t just a snack; it’s a cultural cornerstone, embodying the hearty, comforting flavors that define Lithuanian gastronomy and perfectly complementing its beloved brewing heritage.

Vegan delights in the patisseries of Paris

As an unfortunate combination of a dedicated foodie and a committed vegan, my expectations for Parisian patisseries had always been tempered by a pragmatic realism. I was mentally prepared for a weekend in the City of Light earlier this summer, envisioning myself staring longingly into exquisite patisserie windows, admiring the intricate, butter-and-egg-laden masterpieces I couldn’t partake in. However, Paris, ever the city of surprises, had an "unbridled joy" awaiting me, one that utterly shattered my preconceptions about vegan limitations in French cuisine.

This revelation came in the form of Land & Monkeys, an innovative boulangerie/patisserie chain that has been making significant waves across the capital. Unlike traditional French bakeries, Land & Monkeys is entirely plant-based, yet their creations are indistinguishable in quality, flavor, and texture from their conventional counterparts. My journey of vegan discovery began at their Montmartre branch, where I indulged in an outrageously creamy raspberry petit gateaux. This small, artfully crafted cake, with its delicate layers and intensely fruity yet rich cream, defied all expectations of what a vegan dessert could be.

The next day, in the charming Marais district, I sampled another triumph: a croissant aux champignons. This savory pastry, with its unbelievable fluff and flake, perfectly mimicked the buttery lamination of a traditional croissant, while its earthy mushroom filling offered a sophisticated, umami-rich experience. The texture, often the Achilles’ heel of vegan baking, was flawless – crisp on the outside, tender and airy within. As our departure approached, a parting madeleine for the Eurostar journey back was the pièce de résistance. These delicate shell-shaped cakes, with their signature hump and subtle citrus notes, were a perfect embodiment of classic French baking, rendered entirely vegan and utterly delicious. Land & Monkeys stands as a beacon of modern Parisian gastronomy, proving that the city’s legendary culinary artistry can evolve to embrace plant-based principles without compromising on the luxurious indulgence for which French patisserie is renowned. Elinor’s experience highlights the exciting transformation within Parisian food culture, making it an increasingly welcoming destination for discerning vegan palates.

Pasta with pears in Bologna

It was in Bologna, a city proudly proclaiming itself Italy’s undisputed food capital, that I had the distinct pleasure of sampling its most iconic culinary creation: tortellini. Known affectionately as "La Grassa" (The Fat One) for its rich, indulgent cuisine, Bologna is a pilgrimage site for food lovers, celebrated for its fresh egg pasta, robust ragùs, and exceptional cheeses. While wandering through its charming medieval streets, we stumbled across Rosarose Bistrot, a captivating eatery that instantly drew us in with its inviting red-checked cloths adorning tables set directly in the middle of a cobblestone road, creating an idyllic, cinematic dining scene.

My choice for the evening was a dish that, on paper, might raise an eyebrow: tortellini shells generously stuffed with tangy gorgonzola cheese and sweet, caramelized pears. As someone who would typically steer clear of pears in savory dishes, I placed my trust entirely in the hands of this regional delicacy, an act of faith that was richly rewarded. The bold, piquant flavor of the gorgonzola, a renowned Italian blue cheese, blended with astonishing harmony with the unexpected sweetness of the caramelized pears. The combination was a masterclass in contrasting yet complementary flavors, creating a complex and utterly delicious profile that lingered on the palate. To ensure not a single drop of the exquisite sauce went to waste, we eagerly used crescentine, crispy and soft fried bread, a local specialty, to soak up every last morsel. The meal was so memorable, so perfectly encapsulating the spirit of Bolognese culinary artistry, that it was only right to commemorate the experience. Before leaving, I purchased a small tortellini keyring from a nearby gift shop, adorned with various merchandise emblazoned with the beloved pasta shell, a tangible reminder of a truly exceptional and surprising culinary encounter in Italy’s gastronomic heartland.

Catalonia’s ultimate slow-food festival

Last year, my journey through Spain led me to the discovery of what I now consider the ultimate slow-food festival: the Snail Feast of Lleida, known locally as L’Aplec del Caragol. Situated approximately 100 miles west of Barcelona, Lleida, a city in the heart of Catalonia, transforms into a vibrant, bustling hub for one long weekend each May, all in fervent celebration of the tiny mollusc. This festival, which started as a gathering of friends in 1980, has grown into an internationally recognized event, attracting tens of thousands of visitors and cementing its place as a cornerstone of Catalan cultural identity.

The festival grounds burst with energy, offering a continuous program of music, traditional Catalan dancing, spirited cooking competitions, and, of course, endless feasting. Entrance to the festival is free, inviting everyone to partake in the festivities. Visitors can sample an astonishing array of traditional snail dishes prepared in various styles, whether in large communal tents, at local restaurants that fully embrace the spirit of the Aplec, or from impromptu stalls set up in the charming town squares. Catalan cuisine has a long and proud tradition of consuming snails (cargols), often prepared simply, allowing their unique earthy flavor to shine.

My personal highlight was indulging in two generous helpings of snails a la gormanda. This particular preparation, a local favorite, features snails cooked in a rich, aromatic sauce typically made with spicy paprika, fragrant herbs (such as thyme and bay leaf), garlic, and often a touch of tomato. The slow cooking process tenderizes the snails and infuses them with deep, complex flavors that are utterly captivating. The atmosphere was infectious – the air filled with the aroma of wood fires, the sounds of traditional folk music, and the joyous chatter of thousands of people united by a shared love for food and community. The Aplec del Caragol is more than just a food festival; it’s a vibrant testament to Catalonia’s commitment to preserving its culinary heritage and celebrating local produce. Since attending this unforgettable feast, I confess to treading with a newfound gentleness in my own garden, having developed a profound respect for what I discovered are truly delicate and delicious creatures.

Heavenly cakes in Slovenia

Our epic train journey, commencing in Bristol and winding its way through the picturesque landscapes of the Netherlands, Germany, Switzerland, and Italy, brought us to our penultimate, and arguably most enchanting, destination: Lake Bled in Slovenia. While we had been utterly awed by the majestic beauty of the Swiss alpine scenery, Lake Bled, with its iconic island church, medieval castle perched on a cliff, and turquoise waters, somehow managed to take the breathtaking natural beauty up a notch, captivating us instantly.

After a day spent vigorously cycling from the shores of Lake Bled to the equally stunning, albeit quieter, Lake Bohinj and back, our bodies craved a well-deserved reward. This came in the form of the local delicacy, Bled cream cake, or kremšnita. This legendary dessert, which originated at Hotel Park in Bled in the 1950s, is far more than just a cake; it’s a national culinary icon. Each slice is a masterpiece of textures and flavors: a sumptuously smooth, perfectly set vanilla custard, light as air yet rich in taste, encased within the flakiest, lightest mille-feuille pastry, and crowned with a generous layer of freshly whipped cream.

To describe it merely as an "English custard slice" would be a disservice; it is, as I quickly discovered, a million times better. The meticulous layering, the superior quality of the ingredients, and the sheer freshness of each component combine to create a dessert that is both comforting and exquisitely refined. It was an absolutely perfect treat after a day spent soaking in the crisp, invigorating Slovenian mountain air, providing an energy boost and a moment of pure, unadulterated bliss. The Bled cake was so incredibly welcome, so utterly delightful, that it quickly became a cherished holiday habit. A Bled cake a day became our mantra, a sweet ritual we faithfully observed until the inevitable moment we had to reluctantly journey homeward, leaving behind not just a beautiful lake, but also the memory of a truly heavenly dessert.

Winning tip: delicious seafood soup in Spain

Few meals possess the power to etch themselves into memory quite like a proper Asturian sopa de pescado y marisco (seafood soup). Asturias, nestled on Spain’s rugged northern coast, is a region renowned for its wild, dramatic landscapes and, crucially, its exceptional seafood. The Cantabrian Sea provides an abundant larder, and Asturian cuisine celebrates this bounty with hearty, flavorful dishes.

My first encounter with this extraordinary soup came after an exhilarating 10-mile kayaking expedition down the Sella River, a famous route that winds through breathtaking scenery. As a reward in the charming town of Arriondas, I wasn’t presented with a humble bowl of soup, but an entire pan, brimming with liquid gold. This wasn’t just a broth; it was a deeply flavorful elixir, packed to the brim with tender white fish, plump prawns, and sweet, succulent crab claws. Each spoonful was an explosion of oceanic flavors, so extraordinarily rich and profound that it almost brought me to tears of culinary joy. I devoured every last drop, without a moment’s hesitation or regret, willingly skipping the subsequent courses of the meal. This soup wasn’t merely a starter; it was the main event, a complete and utterly satisfying culinary experience in itself.

Years later, while visiting Gijón, another beautiful coastal city in Asturias, history gloriously repeated itself. I sought out the sopa de pescado y marisco again, hoping to rekindle that exquisite memory, and it did not disappoint. Even my husband, a self-proclaimed soup-skeptic, took one taste and declared it the best he had ever encountered. In Asturias, sopa de pescado y marisco transcends the role of a mere starter. It is an obsession in a pot, a culinary testament to the region’s deep connection to the sea, a dish that captures the essence of its coastal bounty and the passion of its people. It’s a rich, heartwarming declaration of Asturian identity, leaving an indelible mark on anyone fortunate enough to experience its profound depths.