The other side of Croatia: ‘a landscape that could out-Tuscany Tuscany’

"But I’ve already had kremšnita in Zagreb," I countered, sensing the impending, good-natured regional rivalry. They were adamant: "They do it better in Samobor." I wasn’t about to get embroiled in a battle of the cream cakes, especially in a region where Croatians, Slovenes, and Austrians all passionately celebrate their own versions of this decadently thick, fat custard slice, topped with crisp puff pastry and a dusting of icing sugar. Each country, and often each town, claims its kremšnita (or kremna rezina, crème schnitte, krémeš) to be the definitive one, a sweet legacy of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The famous Bled kremna rezina in Slovenia, for instance, draws thousands, while Zagreb’s versions are widely enjoyed. But Samobor, it seems, holds a special place in the hearts – and palates – of those in the know. I was more than willing – happy, even – to follow everyone’s suggestions to try kremšnita in Hotel Livadić’s Kavana Livadić, nestled in Samobor’s main King Tomislav Square, a mere half-hour drive west of Zagreb.

The moment of truth arrived, and the kremšnita lived up to the hype – delicately rich, creamy, and with a surprisingly light touch that set it apart. Unlike some heavier variations, Samobor’s interpretation often features a slightly aerated custard and a thinner, crisper top layer of pastry, preventing it from feeling overly dense. It was a revelation, a perfect introduction to a region that felt a world away from the scrubby, limestone Dinaric Alps and the vibrant, boisterous atmosphere of Venetian Dalmatia. I had truly swapped empires, finding myself firmly in Habsburg Croatia, where a distinct elegance and a slower pace of life prevailed.

Samobor, often lauded as Zagreb County’s prettiest town, immediately impressed with its handsome Baroque houses. Painted in inviting pastel shades of buttery yellow, apricot, and pistachio, and adorned with intricate stucco work, these buildings line the narrow King Tomislav Square. The square itself is a hub of gentle activity, its umbrella-shaded cafe terraces filled with Croatians indulging in their morning fix of coffee and convivial chatter. It’s a scene that speaks volumes about the town’s enduring Central European character, where coffee culture and a relaxed social pace are deeply ingrained.

The town’s picturesque setting is further enhanced by the lush green Samobor Hills, which provide a verdant backdrop to the medieval settlement. Winding through the town is the Gradna, a charming waterway that shifts between a river and a stream, its gentle ripples passing under numerous wooden bridges, many adorned with vibrant flowers. One such bridge, leading to the onion-domed Church of Saint Anastasia, hinted at the town’s historical depth and religious heritage. The church, a prominent landmark, showcases architectural elements typical of the region, reflecting centuries of spiritual and artistic influence. Another, featuring a whimsical fairytale-like wooden roof, guided me to one of Samobor’s many inviting green spaces. Here, free red deckchairs, emblazoned with the affectionate slogan "Volim Samobor" ("I love Samobor") in white, offered a relaxed spot to soak in the atmosphere. In front of these, the stately former home of one of Croatia’s foremost 19th-century composers, Ferdo Livadić, now the town’s museum, added to the air of gentle refinement and culture worn lightly. It was easy to visualise Livadić, a key figure in Croatian Romanticism, entertaining his artistic friends, including none other than Franz Liszt, in this august setting. The museum serves as a repository of local history, art, and the life of its celebrated former resident, offering insights into the cultural flourishing of the region during the 19th century.

Beyond the graceful architectural legacy of the Austro-Hungarian monarchy, this rolling green landscape is a haven for outdoor enthusiasts. It is crisscrossed with forested trails, particularly within the Žumberak-Samoborsko Gorje Nature Park, located about 16 miles (26km) west of Samobor. This expansive protected area, characterized by its diverse ecosystems, is a popular escape for weekenders from Zagreb, who come to hike and bike through ancient woods of hornbeam, oak, and beech, discovering bubbling waterfalls along the way. The park’s designation as a nature park ensures the preservation of its unique geological formations, rich biodiversity, and cultural heritage, making it a vital ecological corridor in central Croatia.

Not having time for a full-on multi-day hike, I opted for a more accessible natural experience. I drove to Potočna dolina Slapnica, near the Vranjak waterfalls, where a scramble up a path beside a series of cascades offered a taste of the park’s rugged beauty. Each waterfall seemed more impressive than the last, their roaring waters and lush surroundings providing a refreshing contrast to the tranquil town. This area is a testament to the region’s natural splendor, offering breathtaking vistas and invigorating experiences for visitors.

Closer to Samobor, the dramatic hilltop ruins of Okić Castle rose nearly 500m above sea level. This fortress is considered one of the best-preserved Romanesque fortifications in Croatia, its stone walls bearing witness to centuries of tumultuous history. Okić Castle held immense strategic importance, famously resisting both the Mongol invasions of the 13th century and later attempts by the Ottoman Turks. Its impregnability cemented its legend in Croatian lore. Sadly, during my visit, the castle defeated me when I attempted to hike to the top. Unaware of a newer, easier path, I inadvertently chose one that was little more than a vertical scramble over gnarled tree roots. With a newly healed ankle and no phone signal, I wisely decided it was unwise to continue. But its imposing silhouette against the sky and its rich history have placed it firmly on my list for a future, better-prepared visit.

A much easier and infinitely more delicious path to take was along the Plešivica wine road. Here, more than three dozen wineries are scattered along a heart-shaped route between the picturesque village of Plešivica (10 miles south-west of Samobor) and the town of Jastrebarsko. This harmonious landscape, often compared to Tuscany for its undulating hills and pristine vineyards, truly could out-Tuscany Tuscany. Vineyards cling to steep slopes nestled between forested hills, many producing the sparkling wine for which Plešivica is increasingly renowned. The region’s unique microclimate, characterized by cool nights and warm days, coupled with diverse soil compositions, provides ideal conditions for grape cultivation, particularly for varieties suited to sparkling wine production.

I had the pleasure of meeting Martina and Krešimir Ivančić, proprietors of the Griffin Winery. Their family history is as rich as their wines: their ancestors were granted a noble title and a distinctive coat of arms by the Austrian Empress Maria Theresa in 1759, a testament to their long-standing presence and contribution to the region. The griffin on the family crest, a symbol of strength and vigilance, inspired the name of their winery, which officially came about when a Hungarian count granted them a license to plant a vineyard in 1773. This deep lineage imbues their wines with a sense of history and tradition.

Martina led me to the covered patio of a charming wooden hut nestled above their vineyards, a suitably bucolic setting for a tasting. There, I sampled an elegant and lightly fruity sparkling rosé, made from the red Portugieser grape, a varietal particularly well-suited to the Plešivica terroir. We continued our tasting in the winery’s extremely stylish tasting room, where plates of exquisitely cured meats and local cheeses accompanied glasses of full-bodied Chardonnay, each sip revealing the complexity and craftsmanship of their winemaking.

During the tasting, I was also offered copanjek, a thin savoury pastry pie filled with cheese and greens. "They’re very portable, so workers would take them to the vineyard," Martina explained, highlighting its historical function as a hearty, convenient meal for laborers. This rustic delicacy, with its simple yet satisfying flavors, looked like the winemaker’s version of rudarska greblica, which I had tasted earlier that morning in the village of Rude, about a 10-minute drive west of Samobor. I had liked rudarska greblica so much I had to have two slices.

Rudarska greblica is a truly remarkable specialty. This salty, stuffed pastry, filled with a delightful combination of cheese and walnuts, carrots, or various greens, has a poignant history. It was traditionally made by the wives of Rude’s long-gone miners, providing them with a nourishing and portable meal to take into the mines. The pastry’s humble origins are now celebrated: it’s such an integral part of the region’s cultural and culinary identity that it has its own dedicated festival every July and has been awarded EU Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status. This prestigious designation means that rudarska greblica can only be produced in the Samobor area, using specific traditional methods and ingredients, safeguarding its authenticity and heritage. At Pekarnica Nikl in Rude, I met Jelena and Andrejas Nikl, who proudly hold the distinction of being the only authorized bakers of this much-adored specialty. Jelena acknowledged the significant responsibility that comes with upholding this tradition, especially with the meticulous paperwork and adherence to standards required by the legal protection – but, she affirmed, it was unequivocally worth it to preserve such a vital piece of their local culture.

All around the Samobor Hills, people were holding fast to their heritage, but also infusing it with new life and innovation. The Korak family is one of the most illustrious examples of this dynamic blend, with their Michelin-starred Korak Winery and Restaurant in Plešivica. There’s not a whiff of Michelin stuffiness or pretentiousness here, just the fourth and fifth generations of a family passionately producing superb wine and crafting beautiful food in a serene setting that directly overlooks their vineyards. It’s a true family affair: brother Bernard serves as the visionary chef, having honed his skills with culinary titans like Massimo Bottura of Italy’s Osteria Francescana and Ana Roš of Slovenia’s Hiša Franko; sister Vera masterfully manages the front of house, ensuring a warm and impeccable dining experience; and parents Velimir and Mirjana meticulously tend the vines. Even the siblings’ grandparents remain actively involved, contributing to the restaurant by making traditional cheese and pršut (prosciutto) from their own farm. This multi-generational dedication creates an authentic and deeply personal gastronomic journey for every guest.

Bernard Korak’s culinary philosophy is deeply rooted in local sourcing and seasonality. He grows as much as he can on their estate, and the rest comes from carefully selected local producers, including a farmer whose pigs are fed on scraps from Bernard’s kitchen, closing a sustainable loop. This commitment means that if an ingredient isn’t in season, it simply isn’t on the plate. My visit in June rewarded me with a spectacular five-course tasting menu at €118 – a remarkably reasonable price for a Michelin-starred experience, especially considering the region’s overall lower price points compared to more established gourmet destinations. Among the delicious dishes, a truffle tagliatelle showcased the local bounty, and clams with green beans in a delicate caviar sauce exemplified Bernard’s innovative yet respectful approach to ingredients. Each dish was a testament to his talent, balancing sophisticated techniques with the purity of local produce.

As my journey through Samobor and its surrounding hills drew to a close, I could only imagine what culinary delights autumn would bring. The region will soon be teeming with aromatic autumn truffles and wild mushrooms, offering new inspirations for Bernard Korak and other local chefs. This vibrant period culminates in the annual Wine Days festival in Jastrebarsko, scheduled from September 25-27, where visitors can further explore the rich winemaking traditions of Plešivica. The Samobor Hills, with their unique blend of cultural heritage, breathtaking nature, and an increasingly sophisticated culinary scene rooted in deep tradition, truly welcome the change in season the best way they know how – on the plate, and with a genuine, heartfelt hospitality that makes it a must-visit destination for those seeking an authentic taste of continental Croatia.