Beyond the Riviera’s Shimmer: An Epic Alpine Odyssey Aboard France’s Train des Merveilles

Nine-thirty on a sunny Tuesday morning, and the platforms at Nice-Ville station are buzzing with an eclectic mix of humanity. Office workers in crisp attire deftly navigate the throngs, nudging past backpackers laden with gear, while holidaymakers clamber onto trains destined for the glittering coastal cities: east to the princely state of Monaco and beyond into Italy, or west towards the chic resorts of Antibes and Cannes. Yet, for my husband and me, the allure of the azure sea momentarily fades as we turn our backs on the famed French Riviera, embarking instead on a journey into the rugged heart of the Alpes-Azur mountains aboard the legendary Train des Merveilles, or "Train of Wonders."

This remarkable railway line, a testament to 19th-century engineering prowess, triumphantly returned to full service last December following an extensive programme of major works that had seen it closed for a year. Its reopening was not just a logistical victory but a symbolic one, restoring a vital artery to the isolated mountain communities it serves. Widely acclaimed as one of Europe’s most spectacular train routes, this two-hour odyssey covers a mere 100 kilometres but achieves an astounding ascent of 1,000 metres. It’s a ribbon of steel that intricately weaves through dramatic landscapes, connecting the vibrant coastal metropolis of Nice with the ancient, medieval town of Tende, nestled deep within the soaring peaks of the Mercantour National Park. This park, a jewel of French natural heritage, boasts a diverse ecosystem and unique geological formations, serving as a pristine wilderness playground for hikers, climbers, and nature enthusiasts.

The engineering marvel that is the Tende railway, originally conceived in 1883 as part of the ambitious Nice-Cuneo-Ventimiglia line, was a monumental undertaking. Its construction spanned decades, battling unforgiving terrain and extreme weather. "The vision was to connect the French Riviera with Piedmont, creating a strategic link through the mountains," explains local historian Jean-Luc Dubois, "but the sheer scale of the challenge was immense, requiring ingenuity that pushed the boundaries of railway technology at the time." Indeed, the line is stitched together by over 100 bridges and viaducts, some soaring dramatically over deep gorges, along with almost as many tunnels and retaining walls. Among its most ingenious features are the helical loop tunnels, designed to gain altitude efficiently by spiralling within the mountains themselves, a breathtaking solution to the steep gradients. These serpentine passages not only offer remarkable engineering insight but also provide passengers with ever-changing perspectives of the unfolding landscape outside their windows.

Within barely 10 minutes of departing Nice, the urban sprawl begins to melt away, yielding to a softer tableau of low hills dotted with charming auburn-roofed villas and copses of ancient chestnut trees. As the ascent truly begins, the reason for the line’s extensive maintenance becomes strikingly clear. The constant battle against erosion, rockfalls, and the sheer forces of nature in this dynamic environment demands perpetual vigilance and significant investment. The journey quickly transforms into a breathtaking ride, the hills gaining height and heft with every kilometre, until a truly grand mountainscape begins to unfold before us. Jagged, grey peaks pierce the sky, their sheer faces dwarfing the valley road below, which appears as little more than a thin, winding ribbon, a stark contrast to the mighty natural formations. The air, even through the train window, feels crisper, the light sharper, marking a distinct transition from the Mediterranean warmth to the invigorating Alpine embrace.

While many passengers choose to ride the Train des Merveilles directly to Tende, using it as a springboard for challenging hikes into the Mercantour’s extensive network of trails, we opted for a more meandering exploration, disembarking first at Sospel. This enchanting medieval town, an hour from Nice but a world apart, is dramatically bisected by the Bévéra River, gracefully spanned by the iconic 13th-century Pont-Vieux. This ancient stone bridge, unique for having a defensive tower at its centre, once served as a crucial toll point on the historic Salt Road, controlling trade between the coast and the high Alps. Our visit coincided with market day, and even in this relatively small mountain town, the square buzzed with vibrant activity. Stalls overflowed with fragrant flowers, seasonal vegetables, immense wheels of local cheese – some aged, some fresh – and artisanal breads with crusty exteriors and soft, aromatic interiors. Strolling through the quiet, winding streets of Sospel felt like stepping back in time. We passed crumbling baroque churches, their ornate facades hinting at past glories, and gothic-style houses whose stone walls whispered centuries of stories. The cultural shift from Nice was palpable; the pace of life here was slower, deeply rooted in tradition, making it astonishing to think we were barely an hour from the bustling metropolis.

The higher we climbed into the mountains, the more pronounced this feeling of historical immersion became. Our next stop, La Brigue, served as a quintessential gateway to the Mercantour National Park. Here, the tangle of medieval streets, paved with cobblestones worn smooth by generations of footsteps, seemed to be just stirring from their winter slumber. The town, while possessing a timeless charm, truly awakens in the warmer months, when it becomes a vibrant hub for the influx of hikers and outdoor enthusiasts drawn to the surrounding peaks. La Brigue’s most compelling claim to fame, however, lies a couple of miles outside the town: the Chapel of Our Lady of Fountains. Named for the seven natural springs that gracefully trickle through the nearby rocks, parts of this sacred edifice date back to the 13th century. Legend has it that local villagers, facing a severe drought, built the chapel as a profound act of gratitude to the Virgin Mary after their fervent prayers for a new water source were miraculously answered.

While the chapel’s exterior facade is unassuming, almost deceptively plain, its interior is nothing short of extraordinary. Its walls and vaulted ceiling are entirely covered in a breathtaking cycle of 15th-century frescoes, the masterful work of Giovanni Canavesio. These vivid, intensely detailed paintings, depicting scenes from the life of Christ, the Passion, and a chilling "Dance of Death," are so remarkably preserved and impactful that the chapel is frequently dubbed the "Sistine Chapel of the Southern Alps." Canavesio, a Piedmontese artist of the late Gothic period, brought a dramatic intensity and narrative power to his work, using rich colours and expressive figures that transport viewers directly into the sacred stories. "The frescoes are a rare and invaluable window into late medieval religious art in the Alps," states Dr. Alistair Finch, an art historian specializing in regional Italian and French art. "Their preservation is miraculous, allowing us to appreciate Canavesio’s skill and the profound spiritual life of these mountain communities." Visiting the chapel is an essential pilgrimage for anyone exploring this region, offering a powerful blend of art, history, and local folklore.

By the time our train finally pulled into Tende, the journey had delivered us to an altitude of 800 metres above sea level. The houses of this ancient town clung tenaciously to the mountainside, an organic extension of the rugged landscape. Around us, nothing but dense, wooded slopes stretched upwards to meet imposing high peaks, and the crisp, clear silence of the Alpine air was a refreshing balm. We navigated the town’s blend of modern main street and clustered, tightly packed medieval houses, making our way up to the evocative ruins of Chateau Lascaris. Perched strategically, the remnants of this once-grand fortress offered sweeping panoramic views that stretched across the valleys to the distant, majestic peaks of the Marguareis massif – the very last mountains before the Italian border. The ascent to the chateau was quite a pull, a vigorous walk rewarded not just by the views but by a well-earned reward: mammoth croque monsieurs at Stella Alpina, a charming establishment that cleverly combines an outdoor equipment shop with a rustic eatery. Around us, hearty-looking individuals in Lycra cycling tops, having conquered mountain passes, were tucking into pints of local lager and generous platters of local cheese and cured meats, their camaraderie filling the air.

Much restored, we ventured into the Musée des Merveilles, a local museum dedicated to the rich heritage of the Roya Valley. Here, through a combination of exhibits and, with the help of our fractured French, we delved into the region’s ancient past. We learned that the area is home to the Vallée des Merveilles, one of Europe’s largest Neolithic and Bronze Age rock-engraving sites. These enigmatic petroglyphs, etched into slate rocks by prehistoric peoples, depict thousands of figures ranging from anthropomorphic symbols and animals to agricultural tools, offering a tantalizing glimpse into the beliefs and daily lives of our distant ancestors. The museum also elucidated Tende’s more recent history, inextricably linked to the fabled Salt Road. This vital mule train route, active from the Middle Ages until the 18th century, connected the salt-producing Ligurian coast with the Piedmontese Alps. Tende, built as the last significant French stop-off along this arduous trade route, served as a crucial waypoint for merchants, pilgrims, and travellers, a strategic position that partly explains why a town of such historical and architectural significance was established in such an isolated, mountainous location. This dual heritage – prehistoric and medieval – makes Tende a fascinating nexus of human history and natural grandeur.

The following morning, we were once again back in Nice, seamlessly transitioning from Alpine isolation to coastal sophistication. From Nice, the regional train network (TER) makes further exploration delightfully easy. A mere 40-minute journey along the coast brought us to Antibes. Here, the sight of gleaming yachts bobbing in Port Vauban, one of Europe’s largest luxury marinas, immediately reminded us of the Riviera’s opulent charm. We strolled along the magnificent 16th-century ramparts, fortifications that once protected the town from invaders, now offering breathtaking views of the Mediterranean. Sitting in the warm sunshine, we watched kitesurfers gracefully whisk across the bay, their colourful sails a vibrant contrast against the deep blue sea. For lunch, we found a delightful restaurant on the bustling Place Nationale, where I savoured a plate of crispy fritto misto – a delicious assortment of lightly fried seafood – while my husband, ever the adventurous eater, enthusiastically tackled a serving of buttery, garlicky snails, a classic French delicacy.

The following day, a quick 10-minute hop eastward brought us to Beaulieu-sur-Mer. This elegant resort town exudes an unmistakable Belle Époque glamour, its streets lined with magnificent villas and grand hotels from a bygone era of aristocratic tourism. We explored its charming avenues, admiring the opulent architecture, before settling down at the Plage de la Petite Afrique. This picturesque beach, fringed with palm trees, provided the perfect spot for a refreshing paddle in the clear waters, followed by a generous pile of mussels, thick with cream and garlic – a quintessential Provençal indulgence that perfectly encapsulated the relaxed luxury of the Côte d’Azur.

Food, inevitably, played a significant part in our time in Nice itself. While the old town, Vieux Nice, can be undeniably touristy, we uncovered two absolute culinary gems. A strong recommendation led us to Acchiardo, a local institution on a quiet side street, where the fourth generation of the Acchiardo family continues to serve up classic Niçoise dishes with an unwavering commitment to tradition. Here, we feasted on hearty specialities like daube Niçoise – a rich, slow-cooked beef stew infused with red wine, vegetables, and herbs – and succulent duck breast with a sweet fig sauce, each dish a testament to the region’s robust culinary heritage. Our second discovery, Les Bar Des Oiseaux, was a delightful stumble-upon. This classic bistro, exuding a vibrant, artistic atmosphere, boasts wood panelling adorned with flawless reproductions of artworks by an astonishing array of masters, from the surrealism of Joan Miró to the abstract forms of Paul Klee and the pop art of Roy Lichtenstein. My bourride, a traditional Provençal fish stew made with white fish, vegetables, and aïoli, was, without exaggeration, one of the most delicious things I have ever tasted, its flavours a perfect symphony of the sea and the sun-drenched land.

And that, truly, is the profound beauty of Nice. It serves not only as a captivating destination in its own right, a city of vibrant markets, elegant promenades, and artistic treasures, but also as an unparalleled gateway to an astonishingly diverse array of worlds, all effortlessly accessible by train. The Train des Merveilles is unarguably the highlight, its extraordinary twists and turns through a landscape that is both grandiose and wild, untouched by the coastal bustle, offering a powerful counterpoint to the sophisticated streets of Nice. But to thoughtfully pack all of these experiences – the ancient mountain towns, the artistic chapels, the prehistoric engravings, and the coastal glamour – into one short trip is to make the very most of this diversely beautiful region. It is, without a doubt, a trip des merveilles indeed, leaving an indelible impression of France’s multifaceted allure.

Traveler’s Guide:
The trip was generously supported by Mama Shelter hotels and the Nice Côte d’Azur tourist board. Doubles at Mama Shelter Nice, a stylish and contemporary base for exploration, start from £114, including breakfast. The Train des Merveilles runs daily from June through September, with the 9:30 AM departure from Nice-Ville offering the added bonus of an onboard guide who provides fascinating commentary on the history, engineering, and natural wonders of the route (check specific dates for guided services). For convenient and economical travel, a regional rail day pass with Ter Zou!, which includes the scenic Train des Merveilles journey, is available for just €20. It’s advisable to book train tickets in advance, especially during peak season, and to wear comfortable shoes for exploring the charming but often hilly towns along the route. Don’t forget a camera – the views are truly unforgettable.