Kent is having a champagne moment: ‘English wine has gone from a joke to world-class’

The very existence of Domaine Evremond underscores a dramatic shift in the global wine landscape. For decades, English wine was often dismissed, if not entirely ridiculed. Yet, as drinks writer Henry Jeffreys meticulously chronicles in his insightful 2023 book, Vines in a Cold Climate, the industry has surged "from a joke to world-class in 30 years." Jeffreys’ narrative vividly captures the origins of Domaine Evremond, opening with an evocative scene from May 2017: an unseasonably cold, rainy, and muddy vine-planting ceremony. Amidst the challenging conditions, Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger, a prominent figure from the revered Champagne family and a self-professed Anglophile, regaled attendees with charmingly rambling anecdotes about "English women encountered in his misspent youth," adding a touch of Gallic flair to the nascent English project.

The vineyard itself bears a name steeped in Anglo-French history and hedonism: Charles de Saint-Évremond. An exiled French aristocrat, bon vivant, and intellectual of the 17th century, Saint-Évremond became a symbol of Anglo-French cultural exchange and collaboration. He is credited with introducing champagne to England, a beverage that quickly captivated the court of the party-loving King Charles II, who, in a testament to Saint-Évremond’s charm and influence, appointed him governor of Duck Island in St James’s Park. This historical homage perfectly encapsulates the spirit of Domaine Evremond – a blend of French expertise and English potential, rooted in a shared appreciation for the finer things in life.

Nestled in the picturesque Kentish countryside, Domaine Evremond represents a significant strategic investment by Taittinger. The decision, announced in 2015, marked the first time a major French Champagne house had invested in an English vineyard, sending a powerful signal about the burgeoning reputation and quality of English sparkling wine. The venture is a partnership between Taittinger (through its holding company Société du Louvre) and its UK importer, Hatch Mansfield, reflecting a deep commitment to the project. The initial planting of 35 hectares (86 acres) of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier across a 69-hectare (170-acre) site in Chilham, located just 10 miles from Canterbury, was a bold move, but one based on meticulous research into soil composition and microclimate.

Our tour continues as we stroll past a rugged Land Rover, strategically parked by a windbreak of resilient crab apple trees. Harriet, another member of the vineyard’s welcoming team, opens the vehicle’s back to reveal a meticulously arranged tray of glasses alongside a perfectly chilled bottle of Domaine Evremond’s flagship release, Edition I. Soon, we are sipping the creamy, citrussy fizz, the effervescence dancing on the palate, all while enjoying an unparalleled view of the verdant vines stretching across the undulating landscape. To an uninitiated palate, the wine is simply delicious. However, its quality has been recognized by far more discerning critics. Esteemed wine critic Jancis Robinson, known for her rigorous evaluations, bestowed a "distinguished" 16/20 rating upon Edition I, a testament to its exceptional character. Henry Jeffreys, in his popular Substack, Drinking Culture, lauded its "bright green apple fruit with a reassuring bass note of croissant and Marmite," highlighting the complex interplay of fresh fruit and autolytic richness characteristic of fine traditional method sparkling wines. Perhaps the most significant endorsement came last summer when King Charles III raised a toast to French President Emmanuel Macron with this very wine at a state banquet, an act that undoubtedly elevated its profile on the international stage.

The meticulous cultivation of these vines falls under the expert supervision of Christelle Rinville, Taittinger’s vineyard director. Her regular journeys via Le Shuttle from Champagne to Kent underscore the deep integration of French viticultural knowledge into the English project. Rinville frequently expresses her enthusiasm for the flinty Kentish subsoils, which bear a striking resemblance to the chalky terroir of Champagne, providing ideal conditions for the classic sparkling wine grape varieties. Beneath the surface, the winery boasts another marvel: its 25-meter-deep cellars, ingeniously excavated by one of the very companies that drilled through the chalk to construct the Channel Tunnel. These subterranean chambers, capable of storing 1.5 million bottles, maintain a naturally cool and stable environment, housing the UK’s first purpose-built underground winery – a testament to the scale and ambition of Domaine Evremond.

Above ground, an elegant, umbrella-shaded terrace extends from the chalk-cliff walls of the winery, furnished with long rustic tables adorned with vases of freshly picked wildflowers. Here, visitors can indulge in the vineyard’s exquisite wine (£12.50 a glass, £55 a bottle) from Wednesday to Sunday, with year-round tours and tastings offering a deeper dive into the winemaking process. Sitting under the vast blue skies, surrounded by banks of yarrow, knapweed, vetch, and wild carrot, all seemingly thriving despite the relentless summer sun, the scene feels surprisingly un-English, more akin to a sun-drenched Mediterranean escape.

This Mediterranean feel is no accident, but rather a poignant indicator of a broader global phenomenon: Europe is the world’s fastest-warming continent. While many crops struggle with the changing climate, the unirrigated vines at Domaine Evremond appear to be flourishing, with the harvest often arriving up to three weeks earlier than historical norms. As Henry Jeffreys observes, "Currently the climate in south-east England is similar to that of Champagne in the 1970s." This climatic shift has proved serendipitous for English viticulture. Optimal latitudes for wine production are traditionally considered to be between 30 and 50 degrees north or south of the equator, with Champagne situated at the northerly extreme of this range. Chilham, remarkably, lies at 51 degrees north, a latitude once considered too cold for premium viticulture, but now proving increasingly viable thanks to rising temperatures.

The journey to the vineyard itself is an integral part of the experience, a pleasant half-hour walk through picturesque fields from Chilham village. The village, with its charming cafes, traditional pubs, and a quaint railway station where only the front four carriages fit the short platform, serves as a delightful gateway. Along the path, bearded, butter-yellow cobs of sweetcorn burst from pale green husks, a vibrant reminder of Kent’s agricultural bounty. My return loop to Chilham takes me through Perry Wood, a tranquil expanse of ancient woodland. Just beyond the vines, an old oasthouse, a traditional Kentish kiln for drying hops, peeks through branches laden with rosy Gala apples. The land for Domaine Evremond was acquired in 2015 from the Gaskain family, renowned fruit growers whose managing director, Mark Gaskain, now oversees day-to-day operations in the vineyards, alongside producing an astonishing 70 million apples annually.

Further along the path, an orchard of plums droops under the weight of its rich purple fruit, with crates stacked high in anticipation of the harvest. The hedgerows are a riot of natural abundance: sprawling hops and honey-scented wild clematis tangle with reddening rosehips and sweet, wine-dark blackberries. Sparrows flit among early-ripened hawthorn berries beneath the arching canopies of ancient beech and sweet chestnut trees, ivy-wreathed hedge maples, and squirrel-haunted hazels. Even huge clumps of mistletoe hang precariously from towering poplars, adding to the enchanting, almost magical atmosphere of the English countryside.

Cottage gardens in Chilham are heady with the perfume of late summer roses, fragrant lavender, and aromatic catnip. I wander past wisteria-clad walls, admiring a row of mud-built house martin nests where late fledglings still cheep under half-timbered eaves, while gathering swallows twitter on the wires overhead, preparing for their long migratory journey.

Deputy church warden Lynda Twaite graciously shows me around the flint-walled St Mary’s Church, a building steeped in centuries of history. She points out ancient memorials and a battered old school table, its surface covered in graffiti etched by 18th-century children – a tangible link to generations past. The historic pilgrim route to Canterbury, traversed by countless medieval pilgrims, winds its way through the churchyard, shaded by venerable lime and yew trees. Across the village square, I peer through the imposing gates of creeper-covered Jacobean Chilham Castle. Its magnificent gardens, famously landscaped by the legendary Capability Brown, now proudly incorporate a new vineyard, further integrating wine production into Kent’s aristocratic heritage.

Before settling in for the night at the charming Woolpack Inn, I take an evening stroll by the River Stour. The view is idyllic: the weatherboarded Chilham Mill framed by vibrant willowherb and ripe elderberries. The river sparkles in the fading sunlight, its surface occasionally disturbed by the darting flight of turquoise damselflies hovering among beds of purple loosestrife and delicate waterlilies.

The Woolpack Inn itself is a haven of rustic elegance. Its garden, surprisingly, exudes a distinct Mediterranean feel, thanks to an abundance of vibrant pink hydrangeas, striking agapanthus, and a remarkable 600-year-old olive tree – a testament to the changing climate and horticultural ambition. Inside, the brick-walled bar is a feast for the eyes, featuring a curving window seat, weathered oak beams, and an eclectic mix of prints, plants, and quirky lighting fixtures. Following a multimillion-pound renovation a couple of years ago, the suites and bedrooms upstairs are now individually named after Kentish vineyards, a subtle nod to the region’s burgeoning industry. For those seeking more privacy, the spacious rooms in Rose Cottage, just across the lane, come complete with their own private gardens.

I find a leafy shaded spot in the garden and order the "Woolly cheeseboard," which arrives on a rustic slice of tree trunk. This is less a meal and more a culinary installation: applewood-smoked and creamy goat cheeses are artfully arranged amidst an array of crackers, olives, nuts, dried fruit, chutneys, and tangy homemade pickles. To accompany this feast, I choose a pint of Shepherd Neame’s toffee-appley Master Brew, brewed just down the road in Faversham, a perfect complement to the local cheeses. Alternatively, guests can enjoy glasses of the local cuvée, including Domaine Evremond’s, at cellar door prices, further cementing the inn’s commitment to showcasing Kentish produce.

Domaine Evremond has played a pivotal role in establishing the "Wine Garden of England," a collaborative initiative bringing together several of Kent’s leading vineyards to promote the region as a premier wine tourism destination. Building on this momentum, August 2026 saw the official launch of a new tourism initiative, the "Kentish Wine Way," specifically designed to encourage visitors to explore "England’s largest and most awarded wine region." Kent boasts an impressive 120 commercially active vineyards and accounts for over 25% of Britain’s total vine area. The previous year’s harvest alone yielded more than five million bottles, showcasing the county’s significant contribution to the national wine output. The following day, as the train snakes through wooded hills and past burdened orchards, several vineyards roll past, their rows of ripening grapes glowing in the evening sunlight – a picturesque and tangible symbol of Kent’s flourishing viticultural landscape.

Accommodation for this report was generously provided by the Woolpack Inn (doubles from £140 B&B) and some transport by Southeastern (advance tickets from London St Pancras from £16 each way).

Five More Kent Vineyards to Visit

Beyond Domaine Evremond, Kent offers a rich tapestry of vineyards, each with its unique charm and offerings, collectively solidifying the county’s reputation as the heart of English wine.

Balfour Winery

Situated in Staplehurst, Balfour Winery is a name synonymous with pioneering excellence in English sparkling wine. It famously produced the first English wine to win both a gold medal and a trophy at the prestigious International Wine Challenge for its 2004 Brut Rosé, a landmark achievement that brought significant international attention to the quality potential of English wines. The estate spans across vineyards, orchards, wildflower meadows, and ancient oakwoods, embodying a commitment to biodiversity and sustainable practices. Visitors can pick up a map at the Cellar Door and wander freely, exploring the diverse landscape at their own pace, or opt for a range of bookable experiences, starting from £15 per person for a self-tutored tasting. Balfour also makes accessibility a priority, offering a free shuttle bus from Marden train station Friday to Sunday, a convenient 45-minute journey from both London and Canterbury. Car-free visitors are further incentivized with a 20% discount on year-round tours and tastings, encouraging sustainable tourism.

Biddenden Vineyards

Just five miles from the iconic Sissinghurst Castle Garden, Biddenden Vineyards holds the esteemed title of being the oldest commercial vineyard in Kent. Its history is as charming as it is significant. Drinks journalist Henry Jeffreys recounts that the Barnes family, originally apple growers, ventured into viticulture in 1969 after Joyce Barnes was inspired by a segment on English viticulture on BBC Radio 4’s Woman’s Hour. This pioneering spirit led to the planting of their first vines, laying the groundwork for what would become a cornerstone of the Kentish wine industry. Today, Biddenden continues its legacy, not only producing a diverse range of still and sparkling wines but also offering an array of award-winning ciders and fancy apple juices, a nod to their heritage. Visitor experiences, predominantly running from May to September, include self-guided tours and tasting flights starting from £15. This year, they’ve introduced a new behind-the-scenes production tour and tasting for the colder months (£30), ensuring there’s always something for wine enthusiasts to explore.

Chapel Down

Near the historic market town of Tenterden lies Chapel Down, undeniably England’s largest and most recognizable wine producer. With its wines gracing the shelves of numerous supermarkets and served in Michelin-starred restaurants, Chapel Down has played a crucial role in bringing English wine to the mainstream. The company sources fruit from over 700 acres of vineyards spread across the fertile south-east of England, producing a wide portfolio of sparkling and still wines, as well as a popular range of beers and spirits. Easily accessible with a half-hour taxi ride from Ashford International station, Chapel Down offers a variety of tours and tastings tailored to different interests, including a popular cheese and wine pairing experience for £70, allowing guests to delve into the nuanced world of food and wine synergy.

Simpsons’ Wine Estate

Ruth and Charles Simpson, the dynamic duo behind Simpsons’ Wine Estate, bring a wealth of international experience to Kent. Having successfully established a vineyard in Languedoc, France, in 2002, they turned their expertise to Kent in 2012, recognizing it as "one of the most dynamic wine-producing regions of the world." Their state-of-the-art winery, nestled in the North Downs, is as innovative as their winemaking philosophy. Bookable sessions, including tastings from £25, are conducted on a striking glass-walled mezzanine floor, offering panoramic views of the vineyards. The tasting room is designed for comfort and style, complete with velvet sofas, and for the truly adventurous, an optional helter-skelter slide provides a playful descent after sampling their acclaimed still and sparkling wines. Simpsons’ focus on precision viticulture and modern winemaking techniques has quickly established them as a leading name in the region.

Westwell

Perched on the edge of the scenic Kent Downs, Westwell is a vineyard celebrated for its experimental and natural winemaking approaches. Conveniently close to Charing station and a short walk from the historic Pilgrims’ Way, Westwell offers a unique blend of tradition and innovation. The vineyard is known for its embrace of wild yeasts, small-scale production, and the creation of cloudy, naturally sparkling Pet Nats (Pétillant Naturel), which appeal to those seeking authentic and unconventional wines. Beyond regular tours, Westwell fosters a vibrant community atmosphere with popular Friday pizza nights and seasonal supper clubs, creating a holistic experience around wine, food, and camaraderie. A tour and tasting experience is available for £28, offering an intimate look into their distinctive winemaking philosophy and the chance to taste their intriguing portfolio.