The Enduring Allure of Brandy: Rediscovering the King of Cocktails

In the ever-evolving landscape of modern mixology, a quiet revolution is brewing, championed by those who craft our favorite libations. Ask any seasoned bartender about the spirits they wish patrons would explore more, and the answer, with remarkable consistency, is brandy. This sentiment isn’t surprising when one considers brandy’s profound and foundational role in the genesis and development of cocktail culture. From the earliest, communal Georgian punches to the sophisticated classics of the 19th century, such as the Sazerac and the Brandy Crusta, and onward to the iconic 20th-century recipes like the Vieux Carré, the Brandy Alexander, and the Sidecar, brandy has been an indispensable player.

Victor Triebel, co-founder of the Francophile haven Bar Rêve in Brooklyn, NYC, eloquently captures this sentiment, stating, "In a world of trends and fads, brandy cocktails present an opportunity to slow down and reconnect with the modern cocktail movement’s roots." This connection to heritage and craftsmanship is precisely what makes brandy, and particularly its classic cocktail applications, so compelling.

For many, myself included, the undisputed monarch of brandy cocktails is the New Orleans Sazerac. Its unassuming appearance belies a profound depth of flavor, positioning it as the thinking person’s Old Fashioned. Kirk Estopinal, a luminary behind New Orleans establishments like Cane & Table and Cure, lauds its perfection: "The Sazerac is perfect. Subtle. It’s respectful to the spirit. It tastes like it was made by a grown-up who has nothing to prove." Achieving this level of understated excellence, Estopinal emphasizes, requires a meticulous attention to detail and "a lot of restraint."

The Sazerac’s origins are firmly rooted in the vibrant French Quarter of New Orleans during the mid-19th century. It stands as one of the earliest documented recipes that adheres to the seminal 1806 definition of a "cocktail": a harmonious blend of "spirit, sugar, water, bitters." This concise yet potent formula, delivering a short, sweet, spicy, and decidedly strong profile, is part of a long lineage of mixed drinks that often served quasi-medicinal purposes. These early concoctions were known by various evocative names, including "fog-cutters," "phlegm-drivers," "corpse-revivers," and even matutinal "eye-openers," hinting at their perceived restorative qualities.

While the Sazerac can be crafted with either cognac, whiskey, or a judicious combination of both, its definitive character is undeniably shaped by the inclusion of Peychaud Bitters. These distinctive, cherry-red bitters were conceived in the 1840s by Antoine Peychaud, a New Orleans pharmacist, who initially marketed them as a health tonic. The legend surrounding their popularization is intertwined with the Sazerac Coffee House, a local establishment. It is said that Peychaud would dispense his bitters with a complementary measure of cognac, a serve that became a signature offering at the coffee house, itself named after the Sazerac de Forge & Fils cognac that Peychaud reputedly favored. Over time, the drink evolved, incorporating sugar and absinthe. A pivotal moment in its history occurred following the devastating phylloxera outbreak in Europe during the late 19th century, which decimated brandy production. This scarcity led to the substitution of cognac with rye whiskey, a change that fundamentally altered the Sazerac’s flavor profile and cemented its versatility.

The contemporary Sazerac often embraces a blend of cognac and rye whiskey, a thoughtful nod to its historical evolution. This dual-spirit approach yields a captivating complexity. The cognac contributes rounded notes of stone fruit and caramel, while the rye injects a warming, nutty, and peppery spice. The addition of anise-forward absinthe and the essential bitters (many contemporary bartenders, myself included, find an additional dash of Angostura bitters enhances the drink’s elixir-like qualities) further layer the Sazerac with intriguing, almost medicinal facets.

Peychaud Bitters themselves offer a delicate bouquet of floral, anise, and cinnamon notes, possessing a lifted and subtly sweet character. For those seeking a more robust experience, a barrel-aged version of Peychaud’s is available, offering an amplified intensity. The visually striking, ruddy pink hue these bitters impart to the amber spirit is a delightful aesthetic touch, and the traditional, old-style bottle is a handsome addition to any well-appointed cocktail trolley.

While some traditionalists advocate for rinsing the glass with absinthe and discarding the excess, a more practical and elegant approach is to simply spritz the chilled glass with a fine mist of absinthe from an atomizer. This method ensures a consistent and subtle aromatic infusion without diluting the main components of the drink.

Traditionally, the Sazerac is served neat, without ice, lending it a rather functional, no-nonsense presentation. This aligns with its origins as a potent, spirit-forward beverage. Regardless of whether one opts for ice during the stirring process, a deeply frozen serving glass is an absolute prerequisite. The final flourish involves expressing the oils from a lemon twist over the drink and then discarding it. This technique imparts a bright, citrusy aroma without introducing the overpowering bitterness of the lemon’s pith.

For the brandy component, the reformulated Sazerac de Forge & Fils presents an exceptional choice. This modern rendition is a faithful echo of the pre-phylloxera cognac, meticulously blended from eaux-de-vie distilled from a diverse array of old and rare grape varietals, and aged for up to five decades. The result is a profoundly complex and serious cognac that truly elevates the Sazerac.

At The Savoy’s iconic American Bar, the Sazerac reaches an almost mythical status, with their renowned £5,000 iteration featuring an original bottling of Sazerac de Forge et Fils from 1858. This exceptionally rare spirit is then artfully combined with Pernod absinthe from the 1950s, which, by comparison, sounds remarkably youthful.

Among the contemporary wave of cognac producers, Fanny Fougerat has emerged as a significant voice. Eschewing traditional blending practices, Fougerat is renowned for crafting small-batch, site-specific cognacs that possess a distinct sense of terroir. Her Marin Hors Serie is a particularly intriguing experiment: an elegantly floral Borderies cognac that undergoes a unique finishing process in wood seasoned by the salty winds and sea spray of the Charente coast. However, for cocktail applications, her Iris Poivré XO, with its nuanced profile, is arguably more versatile.

The Experimental Cocktail Club (ECC), founded by Parisian enthusiasts, has established a global presence with its network of chic boutique hotels, each boasting exceptional bars. Their footprint extends to cosmopolitan hubs like Paris, London, Venice, Ibiza, and New York. In a testament to their commitment to the spirit, ECC has even collaborated with esteemed producers to create bespoke brandy blends specifically designed for cocktail use. These partnerships include working with the family-owned cognac house Ragnaud Sabourin, the heritage producer Hine, and Anthema Armagnac, a contemporary producer celebrated for its striking bottle designs.

Xavier Padovani, a director at ECC, poignantly observes, "Armagnac, sadly, is often forgotten in the shadow of its older brother, Cognac, but offers a rounder, softer flavour profile, sometimes easier to work with." This softer, more approachable character makes Armagnac a compelling alternative for those seeking different nuances in their brandy-based cocktails.

At ECC Chinatown, the Sazerac is prepared using their exclusive, custom-developed Hine XO blend. Meanwhile, at Henri, the sophisticated bar within ECC’s Henrietta Hotel in London’s Covent Garden, an impressive array of cognacs and armagnacs is showcased on a dedicated brandy trolley. One of their most sought-after brandy cocktails is the Carousel, a masterful fusion of the Sazerac and the Manhattan. This inventive creation features Eagle Rare bourbon, Anthema Armagnac, and Cazottes Folle Noire liqueur – a combination that sounds remarkably restorative, indeed.

The Classic Sazerac Recipe

Ingredients:

• 25ml Cognac
• 25ml Rye Whiskey
• 5ml 2:1 Sugar Syrup (two parts sugar to one part water)
• 1 dash Angostura Bitters
• 2 dashes Peychaud’s Bitters
• 5ml Absinthe (for rinsing the glass, or a few spritzes from an atomiser)

Glassware:

• Rocks glass

Garnish:

• Lemon twist, expressed and discarded

Method:

1. Chill your rocks glass thoroughly in the freezer.
2. If rinsing, add the absinthe to the chilled glass, swirl to coat the inside, and discard any excess. Alternatively, spritz the inside of the glass with absinthe from an atomizer.
3. In a mixing glass, combine the cognac, rye whiskey, sugar syrup, Angostura bitters, and Peychaud’s bitters.
4. Fill the mixing glass with ice and stir gently until well-chilled.
5. Strain the mixture into the prepared, absinthe-rinsed glass.
6. Take a fresh lemon peel, express its oils over the surface of the drink by twisting it, then discard the peel. This adds a bright aromatic finish without introducing bitterness.