Forget the Algarve – Portugal’s best winter escape is in the mountains

I plod inelegantly in his wake, still clumsy in the frames clipped to my boots to keep me from sinking into the powder. The air, crisp and biting, fills my lungs, carrying the faint scent of pine and ice. At a quartzite outcrop, its surface rippled with rose and amber hues from millennia of geological processes, we pause and drink in the breathtaking view. Below us, cupped in the majestic glacial scar of the Zêzere valley, lies the terracotta-roofed town of Manteigas — a settlement founded in the 12th century and now serving as the modest, yet increasingly vibrant, hub for tourism in the region. Ahead, on the horizon, João Pedro points out mainland Portugal’s highest peak, the 1,993-metre Torre, home to a small ski resort ideally suited for beginners and families. “This region is full of surprises,” he grins, a testament to the diverse offerings of Serra da Estrela, from challenging winter hikes to gentle slopes and a rich cultural tapestry.

The Serra da Estrela itself is not merely a mountain range; it is a geological marvel, a significant part of the Central Cordillera, shaped profoundly by glacial activity during the last ice age. The Zêzere Valley, a U-shaped glacial trough, is a prime example of this dramatic sculpting, its sheer walls and deep basin bearing witness to the immense power of ancient ice. The scattered granite boulders, described aptly as a giant’s abandoned toys, are glacial erratics, transported and deposited by the retreating ice sheets. This profound geological heritage, coupled with its remarkable biodiversity, earned the Serra da Estrela recognition in 2020 by UNESCO as a Global Geopark. This prestigious designation highlights the area’s unique natural features, from its distinctive rock formations and glacial landscapes to its diverse ecosystems, which support unique flora and fauna, including endemic species and, occasionally, the elusive Iberian wolf. The Geopark status underscores the region’s commitment to conservation, education, and sustainable tourism, aiming to protect its natural and cultural heritage while providing opportunities for local development.

As head of activities for Casa das Penhas Douradas, a design-led hotel created in 2006 and inspired by minimalist Alpine lodges, João Pedro leads treks through the massif in all seasons. The hotel itself is strategically positioned to offer unparalleled access to this wild country. More than 100 miles of meticulously maintained trails extend directly from the property, inviting exploration along old shepherd paths that wind through fragrant pine forests, skirt around tranquil lagoons, and traverse barren passes punctuated by those enormous granite boulders. This intricate network of trails provides varying levels of difficulty, ensuring that both casual walkers and experienced trekkers can find their ideal adventure, connecting with a landscape that feels both ancient and alive. The sheer scale and untouched nature of the terrain underscore why this region remains a cherished secret among outdoor enthusiasts.

The hotel, Casa das Penhas Douradas, occupies a thoughtfully renovated 100-year-old sanatorium, a building with a fascinating history deeply intertwined with the region’s unique climate. Its 17 birch-panelled rooms and suites are designed to maximize the breathtaking views, gazing eastwards to the rising sun. Each features vast sliding windows and doors, specifically designed to let in the curative mountain air during the milder months. This design choice pays homage to the building’s original purpose. Down the main corridor, leading from one log fire-warmed sitting room to another, a gallery of sepia photographs tells the compelling story of the pioneering 1881 expedition by the Lisbon Geographic Society. Their mission: to find a suitable location to treat the scourge of tuberculosis, a prevalent and often fatal disease of the era. The high altitude, dry air, and ample sunshine of Serra da Estrela were considered ideal for promoting recovery.

“The refined air, pure water, and protein-rich diet here worked wonders for patients. For a period at the start of the 20th century, this was Portugal’s answer to the prestigious Swiss health resorts of St Moritz or Davos,” João Pedro tells me when we are back at the lodge, warming up with comforting apple cake and aromatic carqueja mountain tea. This historical context provides a deeper appreciation for the region’s therapeutic qualities, which continue to attract visitors seeking wellness and tranquility today. The chalets peppering the surrounding slopes, with their steep roofs, sunrooms, and occasional fairytale flourishes like finials or turrets, certainly look as if they have been plucked directly from northern Europe. However, João Pedro clarifies, “Built from stone, not timber, though. The style is mixed with our Lusitanian mountain architecture,” highlighting a unique blend of international influence and local tradition that defines the aesthetic of the Serra da Estrela.

For the remainder of my stay, the Serra transforms into a violently shaken snow globe, a dramatic winter storm sweeping across the peaks. The ensuing whiteout prevents safe hiking, forcing a thorough, albeit delightful, exploration of the hotel’s luxurious amenities instead. I shuffle contentedly between the invigorating indoor sauna and the bath-temperature swimming pool, a haven of warmth against the wintry outside. I seek out the resident masseuse for a thoroughly undeserved sports massage, finding solace and relaxation amidst the storm. Evenings are dedicated to indulging in a series of exquisite three-course meals, where I sample the region’s famous Iberian pork — always tender, expertly sauced, and a true culinary highlight. Afternoons are seen out with a generous glass of port wine, a warming traditional Portuguese drink, and a well-thumbed tome on mountaineering from the hotel’s charming library, a lived-in space adorned with antique skiing paraphernalia that whispers tales of past adventurers. The pièce de résistance of the property, however, is undoubtedly the Nordic-style wooden hot tub. I book it for a late-night soak after the storm finally subsides, the stars winking down at me through the lingering spindrift and steam, creating a magical, unforgettable experience. This unexpected turn of weather reveals another facet of the Serra da Estrela experience: the comfort and luxury that can be found even in the heart of its wild beauty.

Beyond the natural allure and hospitality, I discover that the founders of Casa das Penhas Douradas have been pivotal in saving a dying mountain craft: burel fabric. This thick, incredibly durable, and naturally water-resistant weave, made from the wool of the local Bordaleira sheep, has been used for shepherds’ capes and traditional clothing since the Middle Ages. Its resilience was essential for those who worked and lived in the harsh mountain environment. “I fell in love with the local material when creating the upholstery for the hotel — it’s amazingly tough and versatile,” owner Isabel Costa tells me, her passion evident as we tour her bustling warehouse of whirring antique looms on the outskirts of Manteigas. “Nine textile mills had already gone out of business when this one closed — I knew we had to buy it.” Her foresight and dedication were instrumental in preventing the complete loss of this invaluable heritage.

In 2010, under Isabel Costa’s visionary leadership, the mill triumphantly reopened as the Burel Factory, but with a fresh, contemporary directive. The focus shifted to vibrant colours, modern designs, and innovative applications, transforming burel from a purely utilitarian fabric into tactile wall art, sophisticated furniture coverings, and high-end fashion. This strategic pivot breathed new life into the industry. Isabel was not only able to rehire experienced artisans, whose skills were on the verge of being lost, but they, in turn, trained a new generation of craftspeople, ensuring the continuity of this intricate art form. I meet some of them in the "Room of Light," where workers stand before great windows, meticulously reeling bolts of cloth to check for skipped stitches, a testament to the precision and care involved. “Generations of Manteigas women have worked in this business,” seamstress Marta Neves tells me, her hands moving deftly. “It’s delicate work, and with the quantity of bespoke commissions now coming in, every day is different.” The Burel Factory has become a model of sustainable development, blending tradition with innovation to create economic opportunity.

Owing to the resounding success of her initial projects, Isabel Costa was able to expand her entrepreneurial vision further, solidifying her impact on Manteigas’s tourism landscape. In 2018, she opened the town’s first five-star hotel, Casa de São Lourenço, an even more luxurious offering that further elevates the region’s profile. A third property is currently in the works, signaling continued growth and investment. The fabric of local life has been profoundly rewoven in the process: with expanding job opportunities and a renewed sense of pride in local heritage, young people who once left for larger cities are now choosing to stay and build lives in Manteigas. The local school, which had faced closure due to declining enrollment, has even reopened, a powerful symbol of the community’s revitalization. Today, elegant burel shops sit on Lisbon and Porto’s most upmarket thoroughfares, popularizing a native art form — and a destination — that was long overlooked. “It was my husband who first fell in love with Manteigas. The nature, the people — it’s like nowhere else in Portugal,” Isabel says, encapsulating the unique charm and spirit of this remarkable place.

I stay on in the small town itself, checking into Casa das Obras, a fascinating time-warp mansion that has been in the noble Ribeiro de Portugal family since its construction between 1770 and 1825. For the past two decades, it has served as a charming guesthouse, offering a distinct contrast to the contemporary elegance of Casa das Penhas Douradas. Here, history is not just palpable; it is an immersive experience. Stern-looking ancestors of the current owner, Maria Amélia, look down from imposing oil paintings lining the monumental stone staircase, their gazes seemingly guarding centuries of family history. Lower chambers invite guests to explore a tapestried billiards room and a cozy bar, while the upstairs breakfast room — a living museum of antiques, trinkets, and heavy drapes — boasts original ceiling art, meticulously preserved. While the bedrooms are perhaps a little underwhelming in comparison to the grandeur of the public spaces, there’s a pretty garden blooming with vibrant camellias, and the location is unbeatably central, allowing easy access to the town’s modest attractions.

Not that there’s too much of Manteigas to explore in terms of sprawling urbanity. Instead, its charm lies in its intimate scale. One twisting lane of commerce offers up a delightful souvenir shop stacked with intricately knitted socks and cozy wool slippers, perfect for the mountain chill. A bakery, famous for creating the town’s signature sweet treat, the syrupy pastel de feijoca (a rich, bean-based pastry with a hint of citrus and cinnamon), tempts passersby with its warm aromas. A couple of delis proudly sell magnificent wheels of creamy Serra da Estrela sheep’s cheese, a DOP-protected delicacy renowned throughout Portugal for its distinct flavour and unctuous texture, traditionally ripened in mountain caves. But the great treasure of the town is its looks: its cobbled streets, traditional white houses with red roofs, and snow-dusted churches are framed in all directions by dramatic valleys and forested peaks, all seemingly ripped from a storybook. It’s a place where every corner offers a picturesque vista, and history feels etched into every stone.

Come summer, the community will be humming with hikers and adrenaline junkies. The warmer months transform the landscape, opening up a plethora of outdoor activities. Biking trails become accessible, offering thrilling descents and scenic routes. Paragliding launches from the mountain slopes provide exhilarating aerial views of the valley. Rock climbing challenges adventurers on the granite faces, and ATV buggy rides offer a fun way to explore the rugged terrain. All these activities can be easily organized through the efficient little tourist office in town, which becomes a hive of activity. But for now, during its coldest, most introspective months, Manteigas insists on visitors slowing down — filling their lungs with crisp, pure air, lining their stomachs with hearty, traditional cuisine, and exploring scenic mountain trails when Mother Nature graciously allows. It is a destination that truly embodies the spirit of seasons, offering unique experiences and a profound sense of place, whether under a blanket of snow or bathed in summer sun.

The trip was supported by Casa das Penhas Douradas, where rooms start at €189 B&B, including guided hikes and a tour of the Burel Factory. Rooms at Casa das Obras start at €55 B&B. Manteigas can be reached via taxi (30min) or a twice-daily bus from the town of Belmonte, which is connected to Lisbon by direct train (3h 50min).