Forget the Algarve – Portugal’s best winter escape is in the mountains

This central mountain range, often referred to as Portugal’s "roof," presents a stark contrast to the country’s sun-drenched coastalイメージ, revealing a wild, rugged beauty shaped by millennia of geological forces and dramatic climatic shifts. My own progress, in contrast to João Pedro’s fluid movement, is less elegant, a somewhat clumsy plod as I adjust to the cumbersome frames clipped to my boots, designed to prevent me from sinking irrevocably into the deep, powdery snow. The silence of the high mountains is broken only by the crunch of snow underfoot and the occasional whisper of the wind, creating an immersive, almost meditative atmosphere. We pause at a striking quartzite outcrop, its ancient rock face rippled with hues of rose and amber, a geological canvas painted by time. From this vantage point, a breathtaking panorama unfolds: below us, nestled perfectly within the dramatic glacial scar of the Zêzere valley, lies the charming, terracotta-roofed town of Manteigas. Founded in the 12th century, Manteigas today serves as the modest, yet vibrant, hub for tourism in this unique region, a testament to its enduring historical and geographical significance. On the distant horizon, João Pedro proudly points out mainland Portugal’s highest peak, Torre, standing at an imposing 1,993 meters. This summit is not only a geographical landmark but also home to a small, unassuming ski resort, particularly well-suited for beginners seeking their first taste of alpine adventure. "This region is full of surprises," he grins, a sentiment that resonates deeply with the unfolding discoveries of this journey.

João Pedro’s expertise extends far beyond winter navigation. As the head of activities for Casa das Penhas Douradas, a distinguished design-led hotel established in 2006 and inspired by the minimalist elegance of Alpine lodges, he orchestrates treks through the massif across all four seasons. More than 100 miles of meticulously maintained trails emanate directly from the property, winding along ancient shepherd paths, delving into dense pine forests, encircling serene glacial lagoons, and traversing barren passes strewn with colossal granite boulders. These massive geological formations, remnants of the last ice age, lie scattered across the landscape like a giant’s long-abandoned toys, a powerful reminder of the immense forces that shaped this terrain. This is truly wild country, a fact formally acknowledged in 2020 when UNESCO designated the Serra da Estrela as a Global Geopark. This prestigious status recognizes its exceptional biodiversity – including several endemic species adapted to its harsh conditions – and its remarkable geological heritage, which tells a compelling story of glacial activity and tectonic shifts. Yet, as João Pedro alludes, the human story interwoven with this dramatic landscape is equally rich and fascinating.

The Casa das Penhas Douradas itself is a marvel of adaptive reuse, a lovingly renovated 100-year-old sanatorium that has shed its historical purpose to embrace a new identity as a beacon of luxury and tranquility. Its 17 exquisitely designed birch-panelled rooms and suites are strategically oriented to gaze eastwards, offering guests the spectacle of the rising sun painting the mountain peaks. Each room boasts vast sliding windows and doors, designed not only for the breathtaking views but also to invite the renowned curative mountain air indoors during the milder months, a nod to the building’s original healing ethos. Along the main corridor, which seamlessly connects one log fire-warmed sitting room to another, a poignant gallery of sepia photographs tells the story of the pioneering 1881 expedition by the Lisbon Geographic Society. These images depict intrepid explorers venturing into this high plateau, specifically searching for a suitable location to establish a treatment center for the pervasive scourge of tuberculosis.

"The refined air, pure water, and protein-rich diet available here worked wonders for patients," João Pedro elaborates later, as we warm ourselves back at the lodge with a comforting slice of apple cake and a fragrant cup of carqueja mountain tea. "For a period at the start of the 20th century, this was Portugal’s answer to the exclusive Swiss health resorts of St. Moritz or Davos." This historical context adds a fascinating layer to the region’s appeal, highlighting a time when the mountains were seen not just for their beauty but for their profound therapeutic properties. The chalets that pepper the surrounding slopes, with their distinctive steep roofs, sunrooms, and occasional fairytale flourishes like finials or turrets, certainly evoke a strong Northern European architectural influence. However, João Pedro is quick to clarify, "Built from stone, not timber, though. The style is mixed with our unique Lusitanian mountain architecture." This hybrid aesthetic reflects a practical adaptation to local materials and climatic conditions, while still embracing the romanticism of the alpine ideal. The stone construction provides superior insulation against the harsh winters and a cooling effect in the relatively warm summers, making these structures resilient and deeply rooted in their environment.

The capricious nature of Serra da Estrela’s winter weather soon asserted itself. For the remainder of my stay, the region transformed into a violently shaken snow globe, a persistent whiteout making safe hiking impossible. This unforeseen turn, however, presented a delightful opportunity for a thorough exploration of the hotel’s myriad comforts and offerings. I spent my days in a luxurious shuffle between the invigorating heat of the indoor sauna and the soothing, bath-temperature swimming pool, its expansive windows offering blurred glimpses of the snowstorm raging outside. I sought out the resident masseuse for a thoroughly undeserved sports massage, a testament to the hotel’s dedication to wellness, and indulged in a series of exquisite three-course meals. Each dinner was a culinary journey, featuring the region’s famous Iberian pork – always impeccably tender and expertly sauced, often with rich, aromatic gravies that spoke of slow cooking and traditional recipes. Afternoons were idyllically spent with a warming glass of robust Port wine, nestled in a plush armchair in the hotel library, engrossed in a well-thumbed tome on mountaineering. This lived-in space was charmingly decorated with antique skiing paraphernalia, silent witnesses to a bygone era of alpine exploration, adding a nostalgic charm. The true pièce de résistance of the property, however, proved to be the Nordic-style wooden hot tub. I booked it for a late-night soak after the storm finally subsided, the steaming water a blissful contrast to the crisp mountain air, as countless stars winked down at me through the lingering spindrift and steam, an unforgettable moment of pure serenity.

Beyond the hotel’s immediate comforts, I discovered a story of profound local impact. The visionary founders of Casa das Penhas Douradas have played a pivotal role in the revitalization of a dying mountain craft: burel fabric. This remarkably thick, water-resistant weave, traditionally made from the wool of the indigenous Bordaleira sheep, has been an essential component of shepherds’ capes and cloaks since the Middle Ages, providing unparalleled protection against the harsh mountain climate. "I fell in love with the local material when creating the upholstery for the hotel – it’s amazingly tough and versatile," explains Isabel Costa, one of the owners, as we tour her impressive warehouse filled with the rhythmic whirring of antique looms on the outskirts of Manteigas. Her passion for the fabric was ignited by its inherent qualities, but also by the urgent need to preserve a piece of local heritage. "Nine textile mills had already gone out of business when this one closed – I knew we had to buy it," she recounts, emphasizing the precarious state of the industry at the time.

In 2010, Isabel and her husband, inspired by a blend of cultural preservation and entrepreneurial spirit, reopened the mill as the Burel Factory. Their new directive was bold and transformative: inject vibrant colors and modern designs into the traditional fabric, exploring new applications as tactile wall art, sophisticated furniture coverings, and contemporary fashion accessories. This innovative approach not only breathed new life into an ancient craft but also ensured its relevance in the 21st century. Isabel was able to rehire many experienced artisans, whose invaluable knowledge and skills were on the verge of being lost. These seasoned craftspeople, in turn, began training a new generation, ensuring the continuity of this intricate art form. I met some of them in the "Room of Light," a bright, airy space where workers meticulously examine bolts of cloth before large windows, checking for any skipped stitches or imperfections. "Generations of Manteigas women have worked in this business," seamstress Marta Neves tells me, her hands deftly guiding the fabric. "It’s delicate work, and with the quantity of bespoke commissions now coming in, every day is different." The resurgence of burel has become a powerful symbol of community resilience and economic renewal. The Bordaleira sheep, a hardy breed specifically adapted to the mountainous terrain, have seen their importance elevated, reinforcing the symbiotic relationship between the land, its animals, and its people.

The success of Isabel Costa’s initial projects has had a ripple effect, extending far beyond the walls of the Burel Factory. Her vision led to further expansion, notably the opening of the town’s first five-star hotel, Casa de São Lourenço, in 2018, with a third property currently in development. This entrepreneurial drive has, in essence, rewoven the very fabric of local life. With expanding job opportunities in both tourism and textile production, young people who once left the region in search of work are now choosing to stay, build lives, and raise families in Manteigas. The most tangible sign of this revitalization is perhaps the reopening of the local school, a powerful indicator of a vibrant, growing community. Today, elegant burel shops grace the most upmarket thoroughfares of Lisbon and Porto, showcasing a native art form – and by extension, a destination – that was long overlooked. "It was my husband who first fell in love with Manteigas. The nature, the people – it’s like nowhere else in Portugal," Isabel reflects, her words encapsulating the unique charm and enduring appeal of this remarkable mountain retreat.

My journey then led me to explore the small town of Manteigas itself, where I checked into Casa das Obras. This time-warp mansion, a grand testament to a bygone era, has been in the noble Ribeiro de Portugal family since its construction between 1770 and 1825, serving as a charming guesthouse for the past two decades. Here, history is not merely recounted but palpable. Stern-looking ancestors of the current owner, Maria Amélia, gaze down from oil paintings that line the monumental stone staircase, their eyes silently observing centuries of life within these walls. Lower chambers invite exploration, revealing a richly tapestried billiards room and an intimate bar, perfect for a quiet evening. Upstairs, the breakfast room is a veritable living museum, a captivating display of antiques, treasured trinkets, and heavy drapes that frame original ceiling art, each element whispering tales of the past. While the bedrooms, in comparison, are somewhat underwhelming in their simplicity, the property boasts a pretty garden blooming with vibrant camellias, a splash of color against the winter landscape, and its location is unbeatably central, offering immediate access to the town’s heart.

Manteigas, though small, holds a captivating charm. Its single, twisting lane of commerce offers a delightful array of local treasures: a souvenir shop brimming with knitted socks and cozy wool slippers, a bakery famous for crafting the town’s signature sweet treat, the syrupy pastel de feijoca (a rich bean tart, surprisingly delicious and unique), and a couple of delis showcasing wheels of the creamy, intensely flavorful Serra da Estrela sheep’s cheese. This cheese, Portugal’s most renowned, boasts a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status, a testament to its traditional production methods and specific regional characteristics. Its complex flavor, ranging from mild and buttery when young to strong and piquant with age, is a direct result of the Bordaleira sheep’s diet of mountain herbs and grasses, and the artisanal crafting process involving cardoon thistle rennet. But the true, enduring treasure of the town is its visual appeal: its cobbled streets, ancient snow-dusted churches, and historic stone houses are framed in every direction by dramatic valleys and majestic forested peaks, creating a tableau seemingly ripped from a storybook, particularly enchanting under a blanket of snow.

Come summer, the serene winter landscape of Manteigas will transform, humming with the energy of hikers and adrenaline junkies. The region offers an impressive array of outdoor activities, including mountain biking along challenging trails, exhilarating paragliding flights offering bird’s-eye views of the valleys, rock climbing up ancient granite faces, and adventurous ATV buggy rides through rugged terrain. All necessary information and arrangements for these activities can be conveniently found at the local tourist office, which serves as a gateway to exploring the Serra in its warmer guise. But for now, during its coldest, most introspective months, Manteigas insists on visitors slowing down, on appreciating a different rhythm. It encourages deep breaths of crisp, clean air, the comforting warmth of hearty, traditional cuisine, and the unhurried exploration of its scenic mountain trails, always, of course, when Mother Nature graciously allows. It is a destination that proves Portugal’s allure extends far beyond its famous beaches, offering a profound connection to nature and a rich cultural tapestry waiting to be discovered.

The trip was supported by Casa das Penhas Douradas, where rooms start at €189 B&B, including guided hikes and a fascinating tour of the Burel Factory. Rooms at Casa das Obras, offering a journey into the past, start at €55 B&B. Manteigas is accessible via a 30-minute taxi ride or a twice-daily bus service from the town of Belmonte, which is conveniently connected to Lisbon by a direct train journey lasting approximately 3 hours and 50 minutes. For those seeking a deeper dive into Portugal’s less-traveled, yet incredibly rewarding, interior, the Serra da Estrela and its charming heart, Manteigas, offer an unforgettable escape, a true winter wonderland that reveals layers of natural beauty, historical depth, and resilient community spirit.