‘I don’t even drink whisky’: Scotland reels in visitors as much of Europe swelters

The latest figures from VisitBritain paint a compelling picture of Scotland’s burgeoning appeal. The country is experiencing robust annual growth in tourism, notably evidenced by a significant 15% surge in flight bookings to Scottish airports during the crucial summer months of June and July. This stands in stark contrast to a discernible drop in bookings to London and other parts of England over recent months, underscoring Scotland’s unique trajectory in a challenging market. This divergence suggests a powerful combination of strategic initiatives, environmental factors, and enduring cultural allure.

One of the most immediate and impactful drivers of this Scottish renaissance is undoubtedly the escalating climate crisis gripping much of Europe. As unprecedented heatwaves scorch southern European destinations, turning traditional summer holidays into uncomfortable, even hazardous, experiences, the promise of Scotland’s cooler, temperate climes has become an irresistible draw. Travelers, both from within Europe and further afield, are increasingly seeking respite from soaring temperatures, finding solace in Scotland’s often milder summers and refreshing breezes. While tourism chiefs acknowledge this environmental advantage, they are quick to point out that the romanticized image of "dashing Highland warriors" – an undeniable legacy of popular culture – and the infectious camaraderie of kilted football fans have played an equally significant, if not greater, role in capturing the global imagination.

Beyond immediate environmental factors, a long-term strategic vision has been instrumental in Scotland’s current success. Over the past two years, concerted efforts to increase direct flight connections from North America have come to spectacular fruition. This sustained investment in accessibility has substantially bolstered Scotland’s traditional US-led foreign tourist base, making the journey simpler and more appealing for American and Canadian visitors who often embark on multi-week tours. These new routes, often direct to Edinburgh and Glasgow, have eliminated the need for connecting flights through busier hubs like London, streamlining the travel experience and saving precious holiday time.

Adding further depth to this diverse visitor mix is a noticeable rise in tourists from continental Europe. While many may indeed be "looking to escape the heat," others are undoubtedly drawn by Scotland’s growing reputation as a cultural hotspot and an accessible short-break destination. Simultaneously, a significant number of Britons have opted for "staycations," choosing to holiday within the UK rather than contend with the increasingly complex and often frustrating EU border confusion and delays imposed by the bloc’s new entry-exit system (EES). This system, requiring biometric data collection and potentially longer processing times at ports of entry, has proven to be a deterrent for many seeking a hassle-free European getaway, inadvertently redirecting domestic tourism towards Scottish shores.

Nowhere is Scotland’s tourism boom more palpable than in Edinburgh, a city that traditionally peaks in August with its world-renowned festivals. This week, Princes Street, the city’s iconic thoroughfare, was particularly teeming with an energetic mix of international and domestic tourists. They gathered in awe around traditional bagpipers, their melodies echoing against the historic backdrop, and were good-naturedly targeted by cheery Fringe promoters distributing leaflets for countless shows. The atmosphere was electric, a testament to the city’s enduring appeal.

Marc Crothall, chief executive of the Scottish Tourism Alliance, confirmed the buoyant mood, reporting a remarkable 30% increase in festival sales this year. "Edinburgh is jumping, which is great. And that’s a massive draw for international visitors," he stated, highlighting the festivals’ magnetic power. The Edinburgh Fringe Festival, the largest arts festival in the world, alongside the prestigious Edinburgh International Festival and the spectacular Royal Military Tattoo, collectively transform the capital into a global cultural epicentre, attracting performers and audiences from every continent.

Interestingly, not all visitors arriving in Edinburgh were explicitly aware of the ongoing cultural extravaganza. Zanet Garcia, from Mexico City, on her second day in the country, admitted with a laugh, "I was really confused by it all. I had never heard of the Fringe and I didn’t know what it was. But everyone has been so friendly." Garcia’s primary motivation for visiting Scotland stemmed from a deep-seated interest in Scottish mythology, ignited by globally successful UK exports such as the Harry Potter series and the hugely popular historical drama Outlander. Her itinerary reflected this passion, including visits to various locations connected with these narratives. Beyond screen-inspired sites, she was also embracing traditional national attractions, having just completed the Johnnie Walker Experience – "I don’t even drink whisky," she quipped – and holding tickets for the iconic Military Tattoo.

Garcia’s experience is emblematic of a significant trend in modern tourism: the power of screen media. While the majority of visitors to Scotland are from the UK, it is often the big-spending foreign tourists like Garcia who stay longer, chalk up a greater number of visitor attractions, and immerse themselves more deeply in curated experiences. Data from the Moffat Centre for Travel and Tourism at Glasgow Caledonian University revealed that an average overseas visitor to Scotland spent just over £900 during a week-long stay in 2024, a stark contrast to the just over £300 spent by a British holidaymaker over three nights. This disparity underscores the economic importance of attracting international guests, who contribute significantly more to the local economy through accommodation, dining, tours, and retail.

However, the Moffat Centre’s data also highlighted a nuanced shift in domestic tourism patterns this year: a significant jump in visitors touring by campervan rather than staying in hotels. This trend, likely driven by cost-consciousness and a desire for greater flexibility and connection with nature, suggests that while visitor numbers are up, spending per head for certain segments is down. Marc Crothall characterized the overall picture as "healthy but by no means booming," acknowledging the underlying economic pressures. The holidaying Briton, he observed, is more likely to be pursuing free visits to museums and enjoying the country’s vast natural landscapes through walking, with the persistent cost of living crisis remaining a significant concern. "Instead of the three-course meal, it’s the one," Crothall noted, adding that government initiatives like the 5% VAT cut on summer days out and free travel schemes help, "but it’s not magic."

Despite suffering its own localized heatwaves and devastating wildfires in the Cairngorms earlier in the year – a stark reminder that no region is entirely immune to climate change – Scotland generally remains significantly cooler than the southern UK and much of continental Europe. This relative climatic advantage is expected to continue drawing visitors. "We hope and suspect that we’ll see more European visitors given the climate conditions," Crothall reiterated, expressing cautious optimism. Vicki Miller, chief executive of VisitScotland, concurred, stating, "Conclusive data linking the heat to changing tourism habits is not yet available. But certainly we’ve seen this year strong demand from Europe, including Spain and Italy, which is potentially the climate impact."

Beyond climate, the research conclusively demonstrates the profound influence of screen tourism. Online searches for Scottish destinations surged on the back of the hugely popular reality TV hit The Traitors. While Ardross Castle, the main location for both the UK and US versions of the show, is not open to public visits, its dramatic visuals undoubtedly sparked broader interest in Scottish castles and landscapes. Similarly, castles that have prominently featured in Outlander – a long-running global hit, particularly in the US and parts of Europe – have become major draws. Locations like Doune Castle (Castle Leoch) and Blackness Castle (Fort William) have seen significant increases in visitor numbers, as fans flock to walk in the footsteps of their favorite characters. "We know that 36%-37% of international visitors are inspired by film or TV," said Miller, emphasizing the long-term impact of media. "And people’s memories are long: they remember Braveheart or Local Hero as well," she added, referencing enduring cinematic classics that have shaped perceptions of Scotland for decades.

Sport has also proven a powerful magnet for visitors. This year’s Commonwealth Games in Glasgow brought a significant influx of athletes, support staff, and spectators, showcasing the city’s world-class facilities and vibrant atmosphere. Major golf tournaments, which regularly feature Scotland’s iconic courses, also attract a dedicated international following. Perhaps more unexpectedly, the "reflected glory" from travelling Scottish football fans, affectionately known as the "Tartan Army," has translated into tangible tourism interest. After Germany hosted Euro 2024, where the Tartan Army were widely lauded as the best supporters for their blend of "friendliness, banter, and donations to local charities," interest from Germany in visiting Scotland significantly increased. "They capture hearts, they’ve been fantastic ambassadors," Miller remarked. Furthermore, during this year’s World Cup, when Scotland played in the US, VisitScotland launched a highly successful "painted Boston tartan" campaign, which saw local online searches for Scottish holidays double, demonstrating the potent synergy between national identity, sport, and tourism promotion.

While Scotland continues to reap the fruits of a long-term strategic approach – including the aforementioned increased direct flights, which alone account for 100,000 more seats annually from the US, and a concerted effort to promote visits across all seasons – many within the industry are still feeling the pinch of reduced discretionary spending. On the bustling streets of Edinburgh, Dexter, a tour guide with Edinburgh Bus Tours and originally from Nevada, US, shared a rueful observation. "I’ve been here seven years and the crowd is going down. Tips have gone, big time. I used to be able to go on vacation just on my tips, now that’s not the case." He pointed to the newly introduced tourist tax – a 5% levy on accommodation in Edinburgh implemented in July – as a contributing factor, stating it "has hurt," exacerbating the existing cost of living pressures. "People have got no money," he concluded plainly.

Leon Thompson, executive director of the trade body UKHospitality Scotland, echoed these concerns. "People are in their cost of living crisis and that is a challenge," he affirmed. Thompson further highlighted the financial strain on businesses, citing the impact of rising business rates, increased national insurance contributions, and VAT. The hospitality sector is also anxiously awaiting decisions from other Scottish local authorities, many of whom are considering implementing similar tourist levies following Edinburgh’s lead. "Scotland will always be a popular destination, but we can’t be complacent," Thompson warned. "We can’t allow ourselves to be priced out of what is the global visitor market." While 2026 has indeed been a year of remarkable growth for Scottish tourism, the industry remains acutely aware of the delicate balance between capitalizing on its newfound appeal and maintaining affordability and competitiveness in an ever-evolving global landscape.