‘I don’t even drink whisky’: Scotland reels in visitors as much of Europe swelters

The land of lochs and legends is defying the prevailing trends, reeling in an ever-increasing stream of visitors. Official figures from VisitBritain paint a remarkably positive picture for Scotland, showcasing robust annual growth. Crucially, flight bookings to Scottish airports saw a significant 15% rise in June and July, a period that typically signals the peak summer travel season. This surge stands in stark contrast to the noticeable drop in bookings recorded for London and the rest of England during recent months, underscoring Scotland’s unique appeal in a challenging market.

Several interconnected factors are contributing to this Caledonian boom. One prominent driver is the increasingly erratic global climate. With heatwaves gripping much of continental Europe, transforming traditional summer destinations into sweltering zones, the promise of cooler, more temperate climes further north has significantly increased Scotland’s allure. Tourists, both European and domestic, are actively seeking respite from extreme temperatures, finding solace in Scotland’s milder summers and refreshing landscapes. While climate certainly plays a role, tourism chiefs also readily acknowledge the enduring power of Scotland’s cultural mystique. The romanticised image of "dashing Highland warriors" – a trope heavily reinforced by popular culture – and the spirited, friendly reputation of kilted football fans, particularly the "Tartan Army," are potent draws that resonate deeply with international audiences. These cultural touchstones offer an authentic and engaging experience that many travellers now prioritise.

Furthermore, strategic, long-term investments in connectivity are now bearing fruit. Over the past two years, concerted efforts to increase direct flights from North America have come to fruition, significantly bolstering Scotland’s traditional US-led foreign tourist base. These new routes have opened up unprecedented accessibility, making Scotland a more convenient and appealing destination for American and Canadian travellers who often seek out their ancestral roots or a distinctive cultural experience. This enhanced transatlantic link is a cornerstone of Scotland’s tourism strategy, aiming to secure a steady flow of high-value visitors.

Adding to this diverse mix is a notable rise in visitors from continental Europe. Beyond merely escaping the heat, these European travellers are drawn by Scotland’s natural beauty, rich history, and vibrant cultural scene. The combined effect of increased North American and European arrivals creates a robust and diversified international visitor base. Simultaneously, more Britons have chosen to holiday closer to home, opting for a "staycation" in Scotland rather than navigating the complexities and potential delays under the European Union’s Entry-Exit System (EES). This new digital border control, requiring biometric data collection, has led to significant queues and confusion at major European ports and airports, making the prospect of domestic travel within the UK, particularly to a destination as appealing as Scotland, a far more attractive proposition for many.

The impact of this surge is palpable, especially in Scotland’s capital. Edinburgh, where August traditionally marks the apex of the tourist season, has been particularly teeming with visitors this week. Princes Street, the city’s bustling thoroughfare, was alive with the sights and sounds of bagpipers, street performers, and enthusiastic fringe promoters distributing leaflets to a diverse, multinational crowd. The city’s iconic landmarks, from Edinburgh Castle to the Royal Mile, buzz with an energy reminiscent of pre-pandemic highs, perhaps even surpassing them in certain areas.

The vibrancy extends to the cultural calendar, with festival sales experiencing an impressive 30% increase, according to Marc Crothall, the chief executive of the Scottish Tourism Alliance. "Edinburgh is jumping, which is great. And that’s a massive draw for international visitors," he affirmed, highlighting the city’s capacity as a global cultural magnet. The Edinburgh Fringe, the world’s largest arts festival, along with the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo, creates an unparalleled August spectacle that captivates audiences worldwide.

While many visitors specifically plan their trips around these renowned events, some discover them by happy accident. Zanet Garcia, from Mexico City, found herself immersed in the Fringe on her second day in the country, completely unaware of its existence. "I was really confused by it all. I had never heard of the fringe and I didn’t know what it was," she admitted with a laugh, a testament to the festival’s pervasive presence. Despite her initial bewilderment, Garcia was charmed by the warmth of the Scottish people. "But everyone has been so friendly," she added, underscoring the importance of hospitality in the overall visitor experience.

Garcia’s journey to Scotland was primarily driven by a deep-seated interest in Scottish mythology, ignited by globally successful UK exports like J.K. Rowling’s Harry Potter series and the wildly popular historical romance drama, Outlander. She meticulously planned her itinerary to include visits to locations connected with these beloved narratives, exemplifying the powerful pull of "screen tourism." Beyond these modern cultural touchstones, she was also taking in traditional national attractions, fresh from the immersive Johnnie Walker Experience – a surprise given her confession, "I don’t even drink whisky" – and eagerly anticipating the spectacle of the Military Tattoo. Her diverse itinerary perfectly illustrates the blend of contemporary and traditional attractions that Scotland offers.

While domestic tourism forms the majority of visitor numbers, it is the big-spending international tourists who significantly bolster the economy. These overseas visitors are more likely to stay longer, engage with a wider array of visitor attractions, and invest in a broader range of experiences. Data from 2024 reveals a significant disparity: an average overseas visitor to Scotland spent just over £900 in a week, whereas a British holidaymaker typically spent just over £300 during a three-night stay. This highlights the crucial economic contribution of the international market and the need to nurture it.

However, the picture is not uniformly rosy. According to data from the Moffat Centre for travel and tourism at Glasgow Caledonian University, the biggest jump this year has been in visitors touring by campervan rather than staying in hotels. While this indicates a desire to explore Scotland’s stunning landscapes, it also points to a shift in accommodation preferences, potentially impacting traditional hospitality providers. Marc Crothall, while describing the overall picture as "healthy but by no means booming," noted that "numbers are up but spending per head is down."

This reduction in per-head spending is particularly evident among British holidaymakers, who are more likely to be pursuing free visits to museums and walking in the countryside, reflecting the ongoing pressure of the cost of living crisis. "Instead of the three-course meal, it’s the one," Crothall observed, illustrating the belt-tightening among domestic tourists. He acknowledged that government measures such as the 5% VAT cut on summer days out and free travel initiatives provide some relief, but cautioned, "it’s not magic," indicating that these measures alone are insufficient to fully offset the economic pressures on consumers.

Despite Scotland experiencing its own heatwaves and devastating wildfires in the Cairngorms – a stark reminder that no region is immune to climate change – it generally remains significantly cooler than the southern UK and much of continental Europe. This relative coolness is a distinct advantage. "We hope and suspect that we’ll see more European visitors given the climate conditions," Crothall stated, anticipating a continued trend. Vicki Miller, the chief executive of VisitScotland, echoed this sentiment, acknowledging that conclusive data directly linking the heat to changing tourism habits is still emerging. "But certainly we’ve seen this year strong demand from Europe including Spain and Italy, which is potentially the climate impact," she added, pointing to anecdotal evidence from southern European nations particularly affected by extreme heat.

Beyond climate and traditional appeals, the power of visual media continues to be an undeniable force in driving tourism. Research unequivocally shows the profound influence of screen content on travel decisions. Miller highlighted that "36%-37% of international visitors are inspired by film or TV." This phenomenon, often dubbed "set jetting," sees tourists eager to visit locations immortalised on screen. Online searches for Scottish destinations, for instance, spiked dramatically on the back of the reality TV hit The Traitors. Although Ardross Castle, the main location for both the UK and US versions of the show, is not open to public visits, the show’s popularity undoubtedly raised Scotland’s profile. Similarly, castles that have featured prominently in Outlander – a long-running hit in the US and parts of Europe – have become major draws, with fans flocking to sites like Doune Castle (Castle Leoch) and Blackness Castle (Black Jack Randall’s Fort William HQ). The impact of older, iconic films such as Braveheart and Local Hero also continues to resonate, proving that "people’s memories are long," as Miller aptly put it.

Sporting events have also played a significant role in attracting visitors. This year’s Commonwealth Games in Glasgow brought athletes and spectators from across the globe, generating substantial economic activity and showcasing Scotland’s capacity to host major international events. Big golf tournaments, deeply embedded in Scotland’s heritage as the home of golf, consistently draw enthusiasts. However, it is perhaps the "reflected glory" from travelling Scottish football fans, the famous Tartan Army, that has provided one of the most unexpected boosts. Their exemplary conduct during Euro 2024 in Germany earned them the title of best supporters at the tournament. Miller praised their "mixture of friendliness, banter, and donations to local charities – they capture hearts, they’ve been fantastic ambassadors." This positive international perception is invaluable. VisitScotland strategically capitalised on this goodwill during this year’s World Cup when Scotland played in the US, launching a campaign to "paint Boston tartan," which reportedly doubled local online searches for Scottish holidays.

While Scotland hopes to reap the long-term fruits of its strategic approach, including the addition of 100,000 more seats annually from the US alone and a concerted effort to promote year-round visits, many within the industry are still feeling the pinch from reduced spending. On the bustling streets of Edinburgh, Dexter, a tour guide with Edinburgh Bus Tours, shared a rueful perspective. "I’ve been here seven years and the crowd is going down. Tips have gone, big time. I used to be able to go on vacation just on my tips, now that’s not the case," said the guide, originally from Nevada, US.

Dexter also pointed to the newly introduced tourist tax – a 5% levy on accommodation in Edinburgh, implemented in July – as a contributing factor. He believes it "has hurt," adding to the already significant pressures of the cost of living. "People have got no money," he concluded, encapsulating the economic reality faced by many visitors.

Leon Thompson, the executive director of UKHospitality Scotland, concurred with these concerns. "People are in their cost of living crisis and that is a challenge," he stated, acknowledging the broader economic headwinds impacting consumer behaviour. Thompson further highlighted the cumulative burden on hospitality businesses, which are grappling with rising business rates, increased national insurance contributions, and VAT. He expressed anxiety over the prospect of other Scottish local authorities following Edinburgh’s lead in introducing similar tourist levies, fearing a potential deterrent effect.

"Scotland will always be a popular destination, but we can’t be complacent," Thompson warned. "We can’t allow ourselves to be priced out of what is the global visitor market." His words serve as a crucial reminder that while Scotland is currently enjoying a period of success, sustained growth requires careful balancing of revenue generation, visitor experience, and maintaining competitiveness. The challenge for Scotland’s tourism sector in the coming years will be to leverage its current momentum and unique advantages while addressing the economic pressures on both visitors and businesses, ensuring its enduring appeal in an ever-changing world.