In the footsteps of a Welsh borderlands baddie: walking the Mortimer Trail

This 30-mile weekend walk is dedicated to the powerful Mortimer family, and in particular, their most notorious scion, Sir Roger Mortimer, 1st Earl of March. To walk the Mortimer Trail is not just to traverse some of England’s most tranquil and scenic borderlands; it is to embark on a journey through a period of profound political intrigue, personal ambition, and royal scandal that rocked 14th-century England. Roger Mortimer was a figure of truly epic proportions – a marcher lord whose insatiable ambition led him to challenge, and ultimately depose, a king. He is the man who allegedly became the lover of Queen Isabella, the formidable "She-Wolf of France," probably orchestrated the demise of her husband, Edward II, and certainly seized de facto tyrannical control of the realm for three tumultuous years in the 1320s. During this brief but impactful period, Mortimer ruthlessly feathered his own nest, accumulating vast wealth and power, reshaping the political landscape with a blend of military prowess and Machiavellian cunning. It’s a narrative so rich in drama, power plays, and personal betrayal that one might indeed lament that "they don’t make world leaders like that any longer," at least not with such overt theatricality.

Yet, Sir Roger’s primary stomping ground was not the bustling court of Westminster but the wild, often lawless, Welsh borderlands – the Marches. This region, a crucible of conflict and culture between England and Wales for centuries, was where the Mortimers built their formidable power base. The Mortimer Trail, therefore, is not merely a path but a historical narrative etched into the landscape, wending its way through tranquil countryside from the historic market town of Ludlow in Shropshire to the quiet Herefordshire border town of Kington. This route, perfectly distanced for a rewarding weekend hike, presents a striking contrast: can such a location, so peaceful and orderly today, truly live up to the outrageous, blood-soaked standards of Sir Roger and his kin? The Mortimer Trail itself has existed for some years, a testament to the enduring allure of this historical figure and the region he dominated. However, a new guidebook and a companion app have recently revitalized interest, bringing this magnificently horrid hero and his dramatic story back into the contemporary limelight, offering walkers an immersive journey into a past that feels both distant and eerily relevant.

My journey into Mortimer’s world begins in Ludlow, a town that today is renowned for its burgeoning foodie traditions, attracting gastronomes from far and wide. Yet, beyond the Michelin stars and artisanal markets, Ludlow absolutely oozes history from every timbered building and crooked lane. As I stroll down Broad Street, I admire the distinctive bay window of The Angel, a landmark from which, in 1802, the legendary Horatio Nelson – the hero of the Battle of the Nile and a national icon in his own right – waved to an adoring crowd. With his left hand, of course, a poignant reminder of the arm he lost at the Battle of Santa Cruz de Tenerife. Local legend, steeped in the town’s naval heritage, recounts him shouting, "Thank you for the oak," to acknowledge Shropshire’s contribution to the Royal Navy’s shipbuilding efforts. Behind him, it is said, stood his infamous mistress, Emma Hamilton, and her accommodating husband, Sir William, forming a scandalous ménage à trois that captivated the British public until Nelson’s heroic death at Trafalgar in 1805. This anecdote, featuring another kind of "reprobate" whose personal life was as dramatic as his public achievements, perfectly sets the stage for a journey into the lives of historical figures who defied conventional morality. (The Angel restaurant, a local institution, is currently closed but is anticipated to reopen soon).

Lunch is a delightful affair, enjoyed under the imposing walls of Ludlow Castle at CSONS, one of Ludlow’s celebrated cafes. The town truly is a culinary delight, boasting an excellent farmer’s market overflowing with local produce and at least three unique "parlour pubs." These charming, almost clandestine establishments operate out of the front rooms of private houses, often marked only by a subtle lamp outside, and typically serve just one type of cask ale, offering a genuine taste of old-world hospitality.

Ludlow Castle is, in many respects, the symbolic start of the Mortimer Trail. As the principal seat of English borderland power during medieval times, it served as a crucial defensive stronghold and administrative centre for the Council of the Marches. A detour here is not just recommended but essential. Within its ancient stones, one should specifically seek out the solar wing, a private apartment built for Queen Isabella, who resided here in 1328. This was a pivotal moment in history, as Isabella and Roger Mortimer were by then openly, if discreetly, consolidating their power following the deposition and alleged murder of Edward II. Sir Roger’s wife, Joan Mortimer, was also in attendance, reportedly lodged in a separate wing – a detail that speaks volumes about the complex domestic arrangements of the era. History, in its often-frustrating reticence, does not record where Sir Roger himself spent the night. However, one can almost guarantee that when a streaming giant like Netflix inevitably gets hold of this sensational story, they will fill in that particular blank with considerable dramatic flair.

The trail proper sets off across Dinham Bridge, a picturesque crossing that soon leads into the challenging ascent through Mortimer Forest. From its elevated paths, walkers are rewarded with magnificent panoramic views back towards Ludlow Castle, offering a tangible connection to the historical narrative. This ancient woodland is not just historically significant; it is a rich ecological haven, home to a thriving population of deer and the elusive goshawks, whose presence underscores the wild, untamed nature of this borderland. My first night’s stop is at Salwey Lodge, a charming establishment whose farming owners, Arabella and Hugo, are not merely hosts but ardent champions of the trail. They not only organize bespoke walking experiences but have also ingeniously devised their own guiding app, complete with detailed maps and historical insights. Their invaluable shuttle service means that visitors can fully immerse themselves in the walk without needing a car, with Ludlow itself being conveniently located on the main railway line connecting Shrewsbury and Hereford.

Salwey Lodge proves to be the perfect setting to fully absorb the ambience of a world shaped by figures like Sir Roger, a man accused of regicide. The lodge itself is steeped in its own rich history; an ancestor of the Salwey family, for instance, found himself imprisoned in the Tower of London for his anti-monarchial tendencies, implicated in the Farnley Wood Plot of 1663 – a republican conspiracy against King Charles II. This familial connection to defiance and political intrigue provides a fascinating, almost uncanny, resonance with the Mortimer narrative. Richard’s Castle, a site of historical significance located close to the lodge, is believed to have been the ancestral home of this rebellious Salwey. While little remains of the castle today, its 12th-century decommissioned church is a lovely, tranquil spot well worth a visit. The lodge itself is deeply atmospheric, adorned with the kind of ancient ancestral oil portraits that most families, including my own, somehow "inadvertently forgot to commission." The superlative food, a highlight of the stay, is sourced directly from the lodge’s own thriving vegetable garden, the surrounding farm, and other carefully selected local suppliers, ensuring a truly authentic and sustainable culinary experience.

Day two of the walk takes me deeper into the heart of the Marches, ascending through more ancient woodlands to spectacular vantage points offering breathtaking views of the Shropshire countryside. A particular highlight is the Iron Age hill fort at Croft Ambrey. This formidable defensive enclosure, strategically positioned for commanding views, was occupied for six centuries before its abandonment around AD 43, coinciding with Emperor Claudius’s Roman invasion of Britain. Its sheer scale and the ingenuity of its construction offer a powerful reminder of the sophisticated societies that thrived here millennia ago, and the constant need for defence in a volatile landscape.

Throughout the entire weekend, I encounter only a handful of other people on the path, a testament to the tranquil solitude this trail offers. Yet, despite the quietude, there are abundant reminders that this area was once a highly militarized and perilous borderland. For centuries throughout the middle ages, the Welsh maintained a fierce and sturdy resistance to the Norman conquerors and their English successors, who, in turn, responded with unwavering brutality. Sir Roger Mortimer, of course, was perpetually at the epicentre of this brutal struggle, a key figure in the incessant border skirmishes and larger campaigns, until the newly crowned, and vengeful, Edward III finally had the insufferable upstart hanged at Tyburn in 1330. It’s a poignant note that the ruins of Roger’s main ancestral residence, Wigmore Castle – a formidable stronghold that was once the nerve centre of Mortimer power – can be glimpsed from Croft Ambrey. However, rather inexplicably, the main Mortimer Trail does not directly visit it. The closest diversion would add a substantial five miles, a choice that might be debated by purists but understandable for maintaining the trail’s weekend length. For those truly dedicated to understanding Mortimer’s legacy, this detour is highly recommended.

The path continues to roll along pleasantly, revealing magnificent panoramas of the distant Welsh mountains, a constant visual reminder of the ancient border. Eventually, the trail drops down to the meandering River Lugg, leading to an overnight stop at the charming Riverside Inn in Aymestrey. The food here is, once again, excellent, serving the kind of hearty, traditional breakfast that, without some serious self-restraint, could easily induce an early siesta rather than preparing one for a big day of hiking. It’s the perfect fuel for the historical exploration ahead.

The third day begins with a long, leisurely ramble by the river, a peaceful start before the path ascends once more into quiet woodlands and high heaths, where the echoes of historical military madness once again become palpable. The serene, picturesque church at Byton, for instance, belies a violent past, having been sacked multiple times by angry Welsh nobles, including Llywelyn ap Gruffudd, the last native Prince of Wales, and later by the legendary rebel leader Owain Glyndŵr. The Mortimers, naturally, were always deeply embroiled in these conflicts. Llywelyn himself was killed in 1282 by the forces of Edmund Mortimer, Roger’s father, a pivotal event in Welsh history. And in a fascinating twist of fate, another Edmund Mortimer, Roger’s great-grandson, defiantly "cocked a snook" at King Henry IV by marrying Glyndŵr’s daughter, Catrin, in 1402. This audacious alliance highlights the complex and often fluid loyalties of the Marches, where personal ambition and regional power sometimes trumped national allegiances.

For those seeking a slightly shorter route, it is possible to conclude this third day with a 12-mile limit, finishing at the church in Titley. However, for a truly complete and profound experience, it is far more rewarding to press on, rising steadily towards the Welsh border and an encounter with the ultimate symbol of militarisation and tribal anxiety: Offa’s Dyke. The path curls up across a seemingly featureless mountain pasture, and then, there it is – the formidable security wall of its day. Built in the late 8th century by Offa, King of Mercia, this monumental earthwork was designed to physically separate the Anglo-Saxon kingdom from the rival Welsh kingdoms, a testament to the enduring geopolitical tensions of the age. Today, it appears as little more than a gentle ripple in the earth, a faint undulation that sheep now use to gain a better view of whether there’s more succulent grass in the next field. It is a moment for quiet contemplation, to sit and ruminate on the enduring human folly of constructing barriers, and the way nature, over centuries, reclaims and softens even the most formidable of human endeavours. From this contemplative point, it’s a final stride into Kington, a charming border town where a decent cafe, the Border Bean, offers a welcome respite before Arabella arrives to collect you, bringing a fitting conclusion to a walk through history.

The trip was generously supported by Visit Shropshire, highlighting the region’s commitment to promoting its rich heritage and stunning landscapes. To embark on your own journey into the turbulent world of the Mortimers, you can download the new Mortimer Trail guidebook or purchase a physical copy from the historic Castle Bookshop in Ludlow. For those seeking a fully organized experience, Salwey Lodge offers a comprehensive four-night Mortimer Trail package. This includes comfortable accommodation at both Salwey Lodge and the Riverside Inn, detailed walking information and maps, delicious breakfasts, nutritious packed lunches for your days on the trail, one delightful dinner, and convenient local transfers, all for the price of £560 per person. It’s an opportunity not just to walk a path, but to walk through history, immersing oneself in the compelling narrative of one of England’s most infamous figures and the dramatic landscapes he once commanded.