Is there a better sensation for a traveller than when a train speeds out of a tunnel?

The sudden flood of light, the exhilarating rush of air – it’s a moment that encapsulates the romance and revitalisation of rail travel. This sentiment is clearly resonating with a growing number of globetrotters, signalling a definitive shift in travel preferences. Indeed, the notion that trains are the new (old) planes is gaining significant traction, evidenced by a notable 7% rise in UK train travel in 2025, with an increasing number of Europeans choosing to embrace the rails for their adventures. This surge underscores a broader movement towards more sustainable, immersive, and less stressful forms of exploration, redefining what it means to journey across continents.

This burgeoning trend provided the perfect impetus for a late December expedition, embarking on a slow-train odyssey across the historic railways of the Swiss Alps and the Italian lakes. Spanning approximately 1,800 miles (2,900km) and traversing five distinct countries – the UK, France, Switzerland, Italy, and back through France – this meticulously planned itinerary focused almost entirely on scenic daytime trains, designed to maximise the visual splendour of the European landscape. The journey itself became a testament to the quiet revolution occurring in travel, where the destination is as much about the passage as the arrival.

From the very outset, the ease and almost disorienting fluidity of this mode of travel became strikingly apparent. Drifting effortlessly through bustling stations, across well-organised platforms, and seamlessly over international borders, it was genuinely hard to reconcile having crossed three countries – the UK, France, and Switzerland – in less than a day. The efficiency and civility of each passport check stood in stark contrast to the often-arduous experience of airport security. Gone were the days of sweaty finger scans and gruff interrogations at airport border control, replaced by the most polite immigration police one could hope to encounter. One officer, accompanied by a vigilant German shepherd, remarked with a wry smile, "You’ve travelled a lot." My instantaneous, half-joking reply, "Legally," served as a lighthearted nod to the refreshing lack of friction in this European transit.

Outside the window, the familiar contours of the French countryside swiftly began to meld into the dramatic, undulating Swiss hills, all veiled by a delicate, white wintry light. The fields, dotted with stark clumps of bare trees, seemed to be holding their breath, suspended in mid-freeze, as if bracing for the full intensity of winter yet to come. As the train gracefully rolled into Zurich, the journey offered its first breathtaking glimpse of the majestic, milky Alpine peaks, a promise of the epic landscapes that lay ahead. This gradual unfolding of scenery, from the pastoral to the monumental, is precisely the thrill and unique appeal of train travel: the steadily shifting tableau, the subtle rise and fall of the landscape, each new vista rising and settling like freshly leavened bread.

The following morning dawned with crisp blue skies, an auspicious start for the highly anticipated mountain ascent. This leg of the journey was undertaken via one of Europe’s most storied and historic train routes: the Matterhorn Gotthard railway. Opened in 1882, the original Gotthard line was nothing short of an engineering marvel and a true game-changer for European connectivity. It courageously sliced a path through once-impenetrable mountains and connected previously isolated villages, fundamentally altering trade, travel, and communication across the continent. Its construction, a testament to human ingenuity, brought the formidable Alps within reach.

Keen to fully immerse in the historical and scenic grandeur, the choice was made to board one of the traditional trains, the IR46. This deliberate decision was made to avoid anything routed through the modern Gotthard Base Tunnel, an impressive feat of engineering in its own right, but one that bypasses the very beauty and dramatic ascents that define the historic route. In the summer months, a dedicated tourist train, the Gotthard Panorama Express, offers the exact same historic route, albeit with larger windows and a commensurately larger price tag. This very path, with its dizzying heights and profound natural beauty, was famously depicted by the celebrated British artist J.M.W. Turner in his awe-inspiring works and described in reverent terms by literary giant Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. "Here," Goethe famously penned, "it is necessary to submit to nature." However, a quick glance at the cafe car’s menu, offering Swiss coffee at eye-watering prices, prompted a contemporary revision of Goethe’s profound observation: "Here, it is necessary to submit to inflation."

Phones duly plugged into charging points – a common, unspoken etiquette of modern slow-train travel, ensuring devices are ready to capture every unfolding panorama – passengers leaned back and absorbed the spectacle for three mesmerising hours. Swiss truffles, a small indulgence, were savoured as the tracks snaked their way through the mythic Alps via the famous Gotthard "spirals." These ingenious corkscrew tunnels, carved directly inside the mountains, allow for a steady, manageable ascent, revealing ever-changing perspectives of the same majestic peaks and valleys. It is indeed the stuff of oil paintings: vertiginous gorges, frothing rivers carving their way through ancient rock, and an endless expanse of snow-capped peaks piercing the cerulean sky.

At Göschenen, a strategic lunch stop was planned, involving a short but even steeper rack-and-pinion route high into the former garrison town of Andermatt. Once a military stronghold, Andermatt has undergone a remarkable transformation, reinventing itself as a chic, upscale ski retreat. Up here, the snow lay thick and pristine, blanketing the landscape in a profound silence. Between the dazzling white snow and the dark, stoic Alpine stone of the buildings, it felt as though one had stepped directly into a monochrome photograph, a timeless tableau of winter’s embrace. A comforting and robust lunch at the excellent Biselli restaurant provided much-needed warmth, complemented by several glasses of Swiss Ticino red – a liquid lunch being another delightful perk of slow-train travel. This convivial interlude took the edge off a dense mist that had crept over the remaining rail route for the day. Thankfully, as the train descended and pushed further south, Italy soon asserted its presence, with clear skies returning and the promise of terracotta valley towns lingering invitingly in the distance. At Chiasso, another border was crossed with characteristic ease, bringing with it a welcome drop in the cost of a cappuccino (from 5CHF to a more palatable €2) and the first tantalising glimpse of one of Italy’s most famous lakes shimmering ahead.

By dusk, the journey culminated at the enchanting Lake Como. Bags swiftly dropped at the accommodation, the last vestiges of daylight were chased with an easy passeggiata (stroll) around the perimeter of the famous lake. It was mercifully devoid of its high-season crowds, allowing for an intimate appreciation of its serene beauty. Ornate street lamps, reminiscent of washed-up pearls, lined the water’s edge, casting a soft glow. In the distance, the funicular ascending to the hillside town of Brunate shone with a string of golden lights, dangling down the steep slope like lost jewellery. It was a moment of pure magic, making it hard to imagine Como existing any other way.

The next morning, having fully embraced the rhythm of slow-train transience, packing became an exercise in efficiency, completed in record time. Coffee was savoured at the station, anticipating the final major stop: a much-needed metropolis. Making a deliberate choice to bypass Milan – often regarded by some as Italy’s least interesting major city, despite its undeniable fashion and financial prowess – the train rolled into Turin, one of Italy’s most wonderfully underappreciated urban gems.

Stepping off the regional train at Torino Porta Susa, what greeted the traveller was an immediate sense of vibrancy and easygoing charm. Turin revealed itself as a dynamic student city, seemingly contentedly trapped in a delightful temporal ragu. Here, gleaming 1920s Art Deco neon signs proudly clung to grand 18th-century Baroque buildings, which in turn housed vintage shops staffed by students whose attire seemed to have time-travelled directly from the 1990s.

Miraculously, this eclectic blend not only coexisted but harmonised beautifully. The youthful student cohort seamlessly mingled with their more conservative elders, united beneath the city’s impressive porticos. These architectural masterpieces run, unbroken, for more than 18km, providing sheltered walkways lined with an array of elegant boutiques and historic coffee bars, each exuding its own unique character. The first evening was rounded off with a quintessential aperitivo at the classic art-school haunt, Caffè Università. Its frayed edges and charmingly outmoded daily buffet offered a genuine slice of local life and a taste of authentic Piedmontese hospitality.

The following morning beckoned with Turin’s enviable portfolio of museums and galleries, many offering free entry with the invaluable Torino card. The city’s time-warp vibes continued within the soaring spire of the 19th-century Mole Antonelliana, an iconic landmark that now houses the superb Museo Nazionale del Cinema. This institution is surely unique in being a neoclassical masterpiece that also proudly displays a xenomorph egg from the film Alien, a testament to Turin’s playful embrace of diverse cultural narratives. Likewise, another spectacularly repurposed building, the Lingotto complex, boasts an even more outlandish upcycle. Its famous Fiat test track, once the proving ground for countless Italian automobiles, has been ingeniously reimagined as La Pista 500. This panoramic rooftop garden walk features contemporary art installations alongside the historic skidmarks, offering breathtaking views of the city and the Alps beyond. This transformation serves as compelling proof that Turin is not content with merely preserving its rich history; it is passionately committed to evolving, innovating, and creating new cultural experiences within its historic fabric.

As a chill began to permeate the air, a welcome retreat was found in the unassuming yet excellent Osteria Rabezzana. This delightful establishment is part of the Mangébin circuit, an initiative dedicated to promoting and celebrating authentic Piedmontese cuisine. The brasato al barolo (beef braised in the region’s famous Barolo wine) and the local agnolotti del plin (small, pinched pasta parcels typically stuffed with beef and cabbage) were utterly exquisite, showcasing the depth and richness of local culinary traditions. This family-run restaurant and winery, which first opened its doors just after the Second World War, clearly continues to thrive. Judging by the convivial atmosphere – bustling with local people enjoying festive office outings – it has served the city’s palate exceptionally well for generations.

The final morning saw an early start, catching the 7:36 TGV for the journey back to Paris. Drifting in and out of sleep, a last, lingering glimpse of the Italian Alps was savoured, their snowy peaks fading into the distance. By the time the Parisian pit stop was reached, the day was folding in on itself, and soon enough, the traveller was slumped back on the Eurostar. Flanked by bags clinking with wine bottles, carefully cushioned by crushed panettone – edible souvenirs of a truly memorable trip – the journey home was imbued with a heady mix of contentment and slight melancholy. Reluctantly, the train plunged back into the profound blackness of the Channel Tunnel, leaving all that European light, history, and wonder behind, but carrying forward an indelible appreciation for the magic of slow train travel.

Practical Information for Your Alpine & Italian Rail Adventure:

• Transport: The core of this journey was facilitated by Interrail passes, which offer exceptional value for extensive European rail travel. Passes allowing seven days of travel within one month are priced at £255 for youths, £339 for adults, and £305 for seniors (under-12s travel free). The crucial return leg from London to Paris was covered by Eurostar, with fares starting from £78.
• Accommodation:
  • Zurich: The Home Hotel Zurich provided a comfortable stay, with rates from £165 B&B.
  • Lake Como: Hilton Lake Como offered a luxurious lakeside experience, starting from €270 B&B.
  • Turin: NH Collection Torino Piazza Carlina provided a stylish base in the city, from £203 B&B.
  • Paris: For the overnight stop, 25hours Terminus Nord in Paris offered convenient and trendy accommodation from €179 (room-only).