Published August 29, 2026 08:05AM In a bold move that challenges the industry standard, product designer Tom Bonamici has meticulously handcrafted a complete backpacking kit using only natural materials, eschewing the petrochemical-derived synthetics like polyester, nylon, and polyurethane that dominate the outdoor gear market. From a sleeping quilt woven from wool and silk to a tarp of silk taffeta treated with linseed oil, and trekking poles fashioned from resilient Calcutta bamboo tipped with aluminum, Bonamici’s creation is far from a mere museum exhibit; it’s a testament to the potential of nature-based design. Operating from his studio on the University of Oregon campus in Portland, Bonamici dedicated the past year to this ambitious project, driven by a profound curiosity about the compromises, if any, that hikers might face by abandoning conventional synthetic materials. "As we all know, backpacking is just rife with synthetic materials, and they’re really awesome," Bonamici explains, acknowledging the inherent advantages of modern synthetics. "They’re super lightweight and waterproof and strong and badass." His motivation, however, stemmed from a deeper academic inquiry: "I was just curious to explore, academically, what it would mean to use a full backpacking kit without any petrochemicals at all—not to say that everyone should, but just to explore what compromises we’d make if we did that." Bonamici entered the project with the expectation that natural fiber components would inevitably be heavier, weaker, and less performant than their synthetic counterparts. The primary, yet significant, tradeoff he foresaw was the complete compostability of his gear once its useful life concluded, offering a stark environmental contrast to the persistent waste generated by conventional outdoor equipment. This commitment to a plastic-free existence permeated every aspect of his kit. He meticulously crafted his own merino wool long johns, commissioned specialized items, and even enlisted a student to knit him socks, as most commercial wool socks incorporate polyester into their yarn blends. Not a single stitch in his kit is synthetic, and even the smallest components—straps, ties, fasteners, stuff sacks, and food tins—underwent rigorous scrutiny to ensure they passed the plastic-free test. His only concessions to practicality, for the sake of health and safety, were his water filtration system and a first-aid kit. "I don’t want to get giardia for this project," he admits with a pragmatic smile. The genesis of this innovative project lies within Bonamici’s role as a tenure-track assistant professor in product design at the University of Oregon’s School of Art and Design. The university recognized the research potential and provided funding for his endeavor. This October, Bonamici will officially unveil his groundbreaking collection at Dutch Design Week in the Netherlands, an international platform that celebrates experimental design and sustainable innovation. His background deeply informs his current work. Growing up in Eugene, Oregon, Bonamici developed a profound connection with the outdoors through hiking, climbing, and backpacking from a young age, a common experience for many Oregonians. His undergraduate years at Dartmouth College further solidified this passion as he became an active member of the outing club. He later honed his design skills at the Pratt Institute, graduating with a degree in product design. The plastic-free collection represents a natural evolution of Bonamici’s lifelong engagement with gear design and craftsmanship. His expertise extends beyond conceptual design; he is also a skilled woodworker. In 2009, he taught himself to sew and, alongside his friend Lesli Larson, co-founded Archival Clothing, a heritage apparel brand. From 2009 to 2016, the duo focused on producing durable bags and backpacks constructed from robust cotton canvas, surplus U.S. military webbing, and vintage hardware, emphasizing longevity and repairability. In August, Bonamici ventured to Mt. Hood, near his Portland home, to rigorously test his meticulously crafted natural gear in a real-world backcountry setting. The results of this initial field test, which yielded a total base weight of approximately 10 pounds for the entire kit, are detailed below, highlighting the performance and durability of each component. An Ultralight Backpack Bonamici ingeniously adapted a lightweight, frameless backpack design to function entirely without synthetic materials. The pack eschews a traditional suspension system and waist belt, instead utilizing a sleeping pad to serve as the back panel, thereby optimizing weight and resource utilization. The main body and larger side pockets are constructed from Ventile, a densely woven cotton ripstop renowned for its wind and water-resistant properties, while the stretchy back pocket is fashioned from a merino jersey. Conventional plastic closures and cords have been replaced with cotton cord, aluminum toggles, and metal hardware, reinforcing the kit’s commitment to natural materials. The shoulder straps, designed for comfort and load distribution, are a thoughtful combination of cotton webbing, merino jersey, and merino felt for padding. Bonamici’s testing notes: "The merino felt shoulder straps were quite a bit stiffer than the usual closed-cell foam, but over time I think it’ll form to my body," he observed. "I did notice the coarse weave of the cotton webbing being clunky as it passed through the metal hardware. No functional issues there, just a tactile one, and something that could be addressed through both webbing weave and metal hardware design tweaks. The only other funny thing were those side pockets—they’re normal on a thru-hiking pack style, but using the cotton cord with a metal cord lock as opposed to a synthetic shock cord meant that I had to loosen the cord manually every time I pulled stuff in or out." These notes reveal a keen eye for detail and a willingness to refine designs based on tactile experience. A Trekking-Pole Tarp For his shelter, Bonamici selected a lightweight, 9-foot tarp design featuring catenary-cut curves. This innovative cut ensures that tension is evenly distributed across the seams, sides, and guylines, enhancing the structural integrity and longevity of the shelter. The tarp is crafted from oiled silk taffeta, a material with a rich history in sailing applications dating back over a century. Bonamici treated the fabric, which possesses a luster similar to that found in formal gowns, with a specialized blend of linseed oil and natural turpentine. This mixture facilitates the oil’s penetration into the fabric’s weave, rendering it remarkably water-resistant. The resulting shelter weighs a mere 25 ounces, making it competitive with many modern synthetic options, and demonstrated exceptional water repellency during testing, with water beading off the surface even after prolonged exposure and a direct blast from a garden hose. High-stress points are reinforced with double stitching, cotton tape, and patches of Ventile and the silk itself, employing closely spaced stitches to maintain fabric integrity without excessive perforation. Bonamici’s testing notes: "I liked the oiled silk tarp just fine! It set up easily and was nice and cozy," he reported. "It didn’t stretch much when set up, and nothing tore, so that’s a good sign. I really need to subject it to more testing over more time, and do some lab testing of the fabric and seam assemblies. I do think the catenary curves helped distribute the tension well over the weaker material. Still, I’d want to be careful about campsite selection and pick nice sheltered spots (which I do anyway when using silnylon tarps!)." His observations underscore the material’s promise while acknowledging the need for further scientific validation and mindful usage in diverse weather conditions. A Compostable Quilt Bonamici’s sleeping system is a tapered rectangle that cinches at the bottom to create a functional footbox, eliminating the need for a zipper and instead utilizing simple cotton ties. The outer shell is constructed from a luxurious silk-cotton blend, often used as a lining for formal attire, providing a soft and pleasant tactile experience. For insulation, the quilt is filled with fluffy Lavalan wool batting, layered with a lightweight merino quilt batting. Bonamici notes that wool, while more resilient than synthetic insulation, does come with a weight penalty; the finished quilt weighs just over two pounds. Bonamici’s testing notes: "I LOVED the sleeping quilt! Touching that silk/cotton blend rather than the usual sleeping bag nylon felt so luxurious and friendly, and the Lavalan batting was toasty," he enthused. "It definitely compresses a lot less and weighs a lot more than my synthetic bags." This sentiment highlights the subjective comfort and warmth derived from natural materials, even with the acknowledged increase in weight and bulk. A Minimalist Sleeping Pad The sleeping pad presented perhaps the most significant compromises in Bonamici’s pursuit of natural materials. Designed for his 6-foot-2 frame, the pad is full-length but intentionally narrow, offering minimal cushioning. Its primary function is to serve as a thermal barrier, and it cleverly doubles as the backpack’s back panel. The construction sandwiches a very thin layer of cork, which Bonamici anticipates may crumble with extended use, between Ventile and a dense, almost felted Melton wool. Weighing slightly less than 2 pounds, it is considerably heavier than conventional ultralight pads, nearly doubling the weight of a popular Therm-a-Rest Z Lite. Bonamici’s testing notes: "It was truly awful for comfort, but the thermal break worked very effectively," he stated candidly. This assessment clearly delineates the functional success in its intended role as an insulator, while admitting its deficiency in providing comfort. All-Natural Trekking Poles For his trekking poles, Bonamici explored various natural materials before settling on Calcutta bamboo, an exceptionally strong species of bamboo still utilized in the manufacturing of ski poles and fishing gaffs. He sourced thick-walled bamboo from a fishing gaff supplier and fitted them with aluminum and carbide tips for durability and grip. A notable tradeoff in this design is the lack of adjustability; Bonamici believes an extendable version could be machined, but acknowledges that such a modification would introduce additional complexity to the design. Bonamici’s testing notes: "The trekking poles were nice. I liked the sturdy feeling of the bamboo and didn’t find them heavy at all," he reported. "However, I want to make the grips thicker for comfort, and after hearing a few disconcerting sounds from the hand straps, I think I need to make them stronger." These comments indicate a successful foundation for the poles, with clear areas identified for future ergonomic and structural enhancements. Custom Clothing The durability of polyester thread is a cornerstone of modern garment construction, yet Bonamici opted for cotton thread, which is significantly weaker and can be broken by hand, to adhere to his plastic-free mandate. His apparel line begins with a soft-brim hat, followed by hiking shorts made from a dense yet lightweight cotton lawn featuring a merino wool gusset for enhanced comfort and mobility. For tops, he created a lightweight merino wool baselayer, a versatile merino/silk sun hoodie, and a cozy merino knit hoodie. His rain gear is a simple anorak silhouette crafted from Ventile fabric, deliberately omitting closures, pockets, and seam tape to maintain simplicity and natural material integrity. To complete his foot attire, Bonamici commissioned two pairs of wool socks from a student: one designed for ultimate camp comfort, and another reinforced with mohair in the toe and heel for added durability. For essential insulation, he invested in a sweater made from qiviut, the exceptionally soft and warm undercoat of muskoxen, harvested by Indigenous communities in the far north of Canada and Alaska during their spring molt. Bonamici’s testing notes: "The clothing was all awesome, and super comfortable. It really didn’t feel like a compromise whatsoever," he declared. "That qiviut sweater and beanie were incredibly warm, and the silk/merino hoodie was super comfortable while hiking in the 75-degree sunshine. Loved the cotton shorts, but we jumped in the river on the way home and I realized they’d take sooo long to dry… so I had to change out of them. I might look into a different material for the shorts long-term, maybe silk, as apparently silk dries faster than wool!" This feedback highlights the exceptional comfort and performance of his natural apparel, with a practical observation about drying times for the cotton shorts, leading to a potential material revision. Plastic-Free Shoes In addition to his commissioned socks and qiviut sweater, Bonamici allocated part of his university budget to acquire a pair of specialized hiking shoes from FEIT. This brand is renowned for its artisanal, handmade footwear constructed entirely from natural components. Bonamici’s chosen pair features vegetable-tanned leather uppers, cork footbeds, beeswax thread for stitching, and soles made from natural latex rubber, representing a significant investment in sustainable footwear. Bonamici’s testing notes: "The Feit shoes were pretty tough to walk in. Just so bulky and chonky, and the full leather lining was slippery inside!" he admitted. "I didn’t get blisters, but felt some hot spots, and think that they’d need much more breaking in before being reasonable for a longer hike. The hand-knit socks were super nice though, no notes there!" While the shoes presented a significant break-in period and initial discomfort, the accompanying hand-knit socks received high praise, demonstrating the varied performance characteristics within the natural material paradigm. Bonamici’s Takeaways After a single night of testing the complete kit, supplemented by additional nights using individual components, Bonamici expressed satisfaction with the overall comfort of the gear, with the notable exception of the sleeping pad. He was also pleasantly surprised by the lack of any material failures, a testament to the robust nature of his chosen materials and construction methods. The favorable summer weather conditions experienced in the Pacific Northwest undoubtedly contributed to the positive testing outcomes. "I feel confident that this suite of gear works really well for fair weather backpacking, so now I’m looking forward to more extensive material testing," Bonamici stated, outlining his future research trajectory. He plans to bring the oiled-silk tarp back to his laboratory for rigorous testing of various fabric treatments, oil compositions, and seam constructions to meticulously document its strength and hydrostatic water resistance. Furthermore, he intends to reinforce the trekking pole wrist straps and continue their use beyond the scope of the project, underscoring their practical utility. However, Bonamici admits to a degree of personal relief and anticipation in returning to his preferred synthetic-based trail runners and his beloved inflatable sleeping pad. These are the items that offer the most significant compromises in his natural kit, highlighting the ongoing tension between sustainability and convenience in outdoor pursuits. Regarding his apparel, Bonamici is enthusiastic about continuing to wear every piece he has created. "It was just so comfortable and friendly and perfectly well-performing," he concluded, reflecting on the profound personal and functional satisfaction derived from his meticulously crafted, nature-based backpacking ensemble. Post navigation Experienced Missouri Hiker Rescued After Week-Long Ordeal on Remote Wyoming Peak
