Saunas, safaris and silence in Norfolk: a winter weekend on a rewilded retreat

Fritton Lake is a geographical and ecological anomaly within the East Anglian landscape. While its origin, much like the famous Norfolk Broads to its north, is rooted in medieval peat-digging, the similarities end there. The Broads, a sprawling network of shallow, interconnected waterways, were largely shaped by the unique hydrogeology of the region, forming a distinctive wetland ecosystem. Fritton Lake, by contrast, is set within a sandy, undulating landscape of heaths and pines, a rare and precious habitat type in England. This deep, two-mile-long lake is so effectively concealed by its surrounding woodlands that its very existence remains unknown to many, even those living relatively nearby. It represents the northernmost outpost of a vital strip of wildlife-rich sandy heathlands that stretch south along the Suffolk coast, an area increasingly recognized for its ecological significance.

Over the past five years, Fritton Lake and its extensive surrounds have been the focus of an ambitious and pioneering rewilding programme. This initiative is spearheaded by landowner Hugh Somerleyton, a visionary figure who is also the co-founder of WildEast. WildEast is a now-national movement, rapidly gaining traction across the UK, that encourages individuals, communities, and landowners to pledge to “wild” at least 20% of their garden, park, playground, or farm. This grassroots approach aims to create a vast, interconnected nature recovery network across East Anglia and beyond, fostering biodiversity and ecological resilience on an unprecedented scale. At Fritton, Somerleyton has committed 25% of his sprawling 2,020-hectare (5,000-acre) estate to this rewilding effort, allowing natural processes to dictate the landscape’s evolution. The remaining 75% of the estate is managed through regenerative farming practices, a holistic approach that prioritizes soil health, carbon sequestration, and biodiversity, demonstrating a commitment to sustainable land management that extends across the entire property. This dual strategy positions Fritton Lake as a leading example of how large-scale rewilding can coexist with productive agriculture, offering a blueprint for a more harmonious relationship between humanity and the natural world.

My family and I embarked on a winter weekend escape, drawn by the promise of experiencing this burgeoning wildness in far-eastern England. Our arrival after nightfall immediately underscored one of the estate’s core principles: minimal light pollution. The scene was one of profound darkness, devoid of the suburban hallmarks of lit walkways or illuminated signs. This deliberate absence of artificial light not only preserves the nocturnal environment for wildlife but also immerses visitors in a more authentic natural experience, allowing for unparalleled stargazing and a deeper connection to the rhythms of night. Navigating by the faint glow of our phone flashlights, we eventually located our self-catering cottage, one of a diverse range of accommodation options. These include chic wooden cabins, some thoughtfully equipped with hot tubs for a touch of luxurious indulgence, and comfortable B&B rooms housed within the cosy pub, which has been reimagined as a sophisticated clubhouse. This transformation has elevated Fritton Lake into both a desirable holiday destination and an exclusive, high-end members’ club, catering to a discerning clientele seeking both relaxation and immersion in nature.

The highlight of our first evening was a truly magical, and very quiet, private 30-minute session in the lake’s floating sauna. This unique amenity, moored just off the shore, offers an unparalleled opportunity for therapeutic heat followed by invigorating cold plunges into the icy lake, a practice increasingly popular for its health benefits, from improved circulation to mental clarity. The short walk from the clubhouse to the sauna revealed a surprisingly comprehensive array of recreational facilities: well-maintained courts and pitches for tennis, basketball, football, cricket, croquet, pétanque, and pickleball. Down by the lake, a fleet of canoes, kayaks, rowing boats, and paddleboards awaited warmer weather. Passing the heated outdoor 22-metre swimming pool, flanked by flickering fire pits at either end, felt like stepping onto a film set. The image evoked a glamorous 1960s Cliveden pool party, perhaps featuring figures like Christine Keeler, yet the reality was more serene: a solitary swimmer gracefully doing laps as the pool’s surface steamed alluringly in the crisp night air, a testament to the blend of luxury and natural immersion that defines Fritton Lake.

The following morning, I awoke to another profound silence, so deep it felt as though it might swallow me whole, a stark contrast to the constant hum of urban life. As we strolled through the rewilded grassland towards the clubhouse for a hearty breakfast, huge flocks of jackdaws and rooks soared overhead, their calls a wild symphony against the expansive sky. Afterwards, my son, Ted, and I embarked on a Fritton “safari,” a guided exploration of the estate’s rewilded areas. Our guide, Matthew, was a fast-talking, east London-raised polymath – a botanist, horticulturist, entomologist, and mycologist all rolled into one, whose infectious enthusiasm and encyclopaedic knowledge brought the landscape to life. We boarded an old-fashioned, cream-coloured motorboat, puttering slowly across the lake. Matthew explained that the lake, renowned for its excellent swimming conditions, also supports a healthy population of fish, including pike and eels. In winter, it becomes a crucial refuge for numerous waterfowl, such as teals, shelducks, and egrets. Come summer, a majestic osprey occasionally graces the skies, hunting for fish, a clear indicator of the lake’s ecological vitality. The surrounding woodlands and wetlands are also a haven for a remarkable array of avian predators, with “all the owls” – little, short-eared, long-eared, tawny, and barn owls – regularly sighted, alongside an impressive six endangered amphibian species, including potentially the rare Natterjack toad or Great crested newt, whose presence underscores the success of the habitat restoration efforts.

The wildlife area on the far side of the lake is strictly accessible only through guided tours or for approved groups like Scouts, ensuring minimal human disturbance to its delicate ecosystems. We transferred into a robust, open-sided 1976 Austrian Pinzgauer 4WD, and Matthew expertly navigated us through the dense woods, the vehicle bumping and swaying over uneven terrain. Amidst the dried bracken of the previous year, we spied an enormous, shiny black shape slumped beneath a pine tree. For a moment, the absurd thought of a hippo crossed my mind. Creeping closer, we discovered the shape to be a pair of huge black pigs, "retired" by Somerleyton to roam freely in the woods. They flicked their floppy ears, adorned with mud, out of their eyes to examine us with an intelligent curiosity. Matthew explained their crucial role: their natural rootling behaviour mimics that of wild boar, a species long lost to this particular landscape. By disturbing the ground, they create vital niches and assist in the germination of wildflowers. Indeed, former arable fields on the estate now burst with oxeye daisies in summer, a vibrant testament to the pigs’ ecological engineering. Further on, we admired the majestic, long-horned Highland cattle, their shaggy coats a picture of resilience as they roamed freely, grazing and shaping the landscape. Above us, a buzzard circled, its piercing cry echoing through the pines, a sentinel over this rewilded domain.

Ted, with the keen eyes of a young naturalist, was the first to spot a muntjac, a small, shy deer species, followed by a graceful fallow deer. Then, Matthew screeched the Pinzgauer to an excited halt. “King Conan’s sons!” he whispered, his voice filled with reverence. There, crossing our path with stately grace, were two magnificent red deer stags. While Matthew clarified they were not quite as grand as the legendary "King Conan" himself – presumably the dominant stag of the herd – they were undeniably impressive specimens, their antlers reaching skyward like intricate branches. “They are the princes,” he added, his whisper conveying the awe inspired by these powerful herbivores. They observed us, seemingly unafraid, from a mere 15 metres away, their calm presence a powerful symbol of the estate’s rewilding success. On our return journey across the lake, after an otherworldly three-hour experience, two kingfishers pirouetted around our boat, their iridescent orange and turquoise plumage flashing brilliantly against the dark, wintry water – a vibrant, jewel-like punctuation mark to our safari.

That evening, my children were mortified when I arrived at the pub for dinner clad in my Dryrobe, a practical, oversized changing robe. Yet, if there’s anywhere such attire is socially acceptable, it must be here, where comfort and connection to nature trump conventional dress codes. I needed it for another sauna session that was to follow an amazing steak, sourced from a menu that proudly emphasised local and seasonal produce, complemented by excellent vegetarian options. As we walked back to our cottage under a blanket of stars, the haunting call of an owl pierced the stillness of the night, a perfect end to a day steeped in wild beauty.

Sunday morning saw me rise before dawn, drawn by the urge to explore further. I drove 20 minutes to Carlton Marshes, a vast and significant Suffolk Wildlife Trust nature reserve. As the sun began its ascent, the immense sky filled with hues of pink and gold, painting a breathtaking tableau. I had the seemingly endless marshes of the Waveney Valley entirely to myself, the silent reeds silvered by a delicate frost. A Chinese water deer, with its distinctive teddy bear ears twitching inquisitively, watched me as I circled the reserve. Carlton Marshes is a celebrated haven for biodiversity, particularly in spring and summer, when it comes alive with rare dragonflies and the spectacular fen raft spider, a critically endangered species that thrives in these unique wetland habitats. Despite this coast being dominated by the surprisingly large conurbation of Great Yarmouth, Lowestoft, and surrounding villages, the expansive sandy beach of Gorleston-on-Sea offered another invigorating stroll, filled with the cries of seabirds and the invigorating scent of salty air, providing a contrasting coastal wilderness experience.

Later that day, while my wife, Lisa, enjoyed a revitalising yoga class, I headed for a farewell sauna. The open session was bustling, packed with a friendly crowd of regulars, many of whom expressed their hope that Somerleyton would build another sauna or two to accommodate the growing popularity. Stepping outside, I embraced the raw cold, ducking into the lake, feeling the satisfying crackle of ice as I gasped with the delicious, invigorating shock of the cold water. This ritual, a baptism in nature’s embrace, felt like the perfect culmination of our stay.

We departed Fritton Lake feeling profoundly nourished, far less frantically than we had arrived. This transformation was a clear sign of the deep restorative power offered by a weekend immersed in painterly light, stripped-back landscapes, invigorating cold water therapy, warm hospitality, and the gorgeous, ever-present avian soundtrack of this wild, wintery East. Fritton Lake stands not just as a destination, but as a living laboratory and a beacon of hope for nature recovery in Britain, demonstrating the tangible benefits of rewilding for both the environment and the human spirit.

The trip was provided by Fritton Lake. Clubhouse rooms are available from £130 per night, while two-bed cabins start from £275 per night, offering a range of options to experience this unique rewilded sanctuary.