That was then. Now, as I perch in a glass-enclosed terrace atop the former Wurlitzer building—in a somewhat secret space available only to guests of The Siren Hotel—surveying the rewritten skyline of downtown Detroit, this city isn’t just my favorite place in the country. Travelers come from all over to soak up its architecture, music, art, food, and drink of an American city quite unlike any other. The journey from skepticism to celebration encapsulates one of the most remarkable urban transformations in recent American history, a phoenix-like rise from the ashes of economic despair and civic bankruptcy. The Detroit I first encountered in 2013 was a city still reeling from decades of decline. It was a place where, as I could have sworn, tumbleweeds were rolling down the wide, empty avenues. The echoes of its glorious past—the roar of the assembly lines, the soulful melodies of Motown, the architectural grandeur of its industrial barons—were muffled by the silence of abandonment. Once-grand buildings and skyscrapers were crumbling in real time, forlorn at best and burned-out at worst. The city, once the fourth largest in the U.S. and the undisputed automotive capital of the world, had shrunk dramatically, its population plummeting from nearly two million in the 1950s to just over 700,000. The weight of economic hardship, exacerbated by the 2008 financial crisis, culminated in the largest municipal bankruptcy in U.S. history in 2013, precisely the year of my first visit. This period was marked by stark images of urban decay, with vast swathes of empty lots, boarded-up storefronts, and magnificent Art Deco structures slowly surrendering to the elements. For many outside observers, and indeed for some within Michigan itself, Detroit was a cautionary tale, a symbol of industrial collapse. Yet, even amidst the desolation, there was a palpable sense that between grassroots revitalization efforts and deep-pocketed development, the tide was turning. This duality was key to Detroit’s nascent comeback. On one hand, artists, activists, and entrepreneurs were breathing new life into forgotten neighborhoods, establishing community gardens, pop-up art galleries, and small businesses. These efforts, often fueled by passion and a deep love for the city, laid the groundwork for a more organic, community-driven resurgence. On the other hand, visionary investors, most notably Dan Gilbert of Quicken Loans/Bedrock Detroit, began to pour billions into downtown real estate, acquiring and meticulously restoring iconic buildings. This blend of bottom-up creativity and top-down capital created a unique synergy that propelled Detroit’s revival. A dozen years after buying that house (no, I didn’t keep it), a raucous energy rippled through downtown. Long-abandoned historic buildings, now restored as hotels, echoed with cocktail shakers and suitcase wheels. The once-whispered question, “Why would anyone vacation in Detroit?” That, I’m glad to report, is now an archaic question, replaced by a collective curiosity and admiration for what has been achieved. The city has not merely been rebuilt; it has been reimagined, transforming into a vibrant hub for culture, innovation, and tourism. The architectural renaissance is perhaps the most visible testament to Detroit’s comeback. The Wurlitzer Building, where The Siren Hotel now stands, is a prime example. Once a majestic music store and office tower, it fell into severe disrepair, becoming an urban ruin before its painstaking restoration. Today, its elegant facade and reimagined interiors symbolize the city’s commitment to preserving its heritage while embracing modernity. Similarly, the transformation of the Michigan Central Station, a colossal Beaux-Arts masterpiece that stood vacant for decades, into a Ford Motor Company innovation hub, is a powerful symbol of Detroit’s future-oriented vision. These projects, alongside the preservation of gems like the Guardian Building, the Fisher Building, and the David Whitney Building, showcase Detroit’s unparalleled collection of early 20th-century architecture, attracting enthusiasts from around the globe. Beyond its stunning architecture, Detroit’s cultural tapestry is rich and diverse. It remains the birthplace of Motown, a legacy celebrated in the Motown Museum, and a crucible for techno music, which still thrums through its nightlife. The Detroit Institute of Arts (DIA) houses one of the country’s most significant art collections, including Diego Rivera’s powerful "Detroit Industry" murals. The city’s street art scene, from the Heidelberg Project to countless murals adorning brick walls, adds a dynamic layer to its urban landscape. The culinary scene has exploded, with a new generation of chefs embracing local ingredients and diverse influences, ranging from upscale dining to vibrant ethnic eateries in Mexicantown and Corktown. Craft breweries, distilleries, and innovative cocktail bars have also flourished, adding to the city’s appeal as a gastronomic destination. The economic impact of this revitalization is significant. Tourism numbers have steadily climbed, contributing to job creation and bolstering the local economy. According to Detroit Metro Convention & Visitors Bureau reports, the region has seen consistent growth in visitor spending and hotel occupancy, signaling a robust and sustained interest in the city. Major events, from sporting championships to music festivals like Movement, draw international crowds, further cementing Detroit’s status as a must-visit destination. Heading to The D yourself? Here are some things to know, and my recommendations on where to stay while you’re there. FAQ: What is the best part of Detroit to stay in? This is Motor City, so unless you’re ready to hop in a car to go anywhere, you’ll want to base yourself in the highly walkable downtown area. Downtown Detroit has undergone a remarkable transformation, evolving into a vibrant and pedestrian-friendly district. Its grid of streets, once quiet, now buzzes with activity, lined with newly opened restaurants, shops, and entertainment venues. From downtown, you can easily rideshare, bike, or even take the QLine streetcar to nearby Midtown, Mexicantown, Corktown, and beyond for their independent restaurants, thriving nightlife, and unparalleled cultural attractions. Midtown, for instance, is home to the Detroit Institute of Arts, Wayne State University, and a burgeoning restaurant scene. Corktown, the city’s oldest neighborhood, offers historic charm, excellent pubs, and unique boutiques. Mexicantown boasts authentic eateries and cultural vibrancy. Staying downtown provides not only convenience but also an immersive experience into the heart of the revitalized city, allowing visitors to feel the pulse of its ongoing resurgence firsthand. The central location minimizes travel time and maximizes opportunities for exploration on foot, which is a rare and delightful experience in a city historically defined by its automotive culture. Are there pet-friendly hotels in Detroit? I’ve spent the last dozen years visiting Detroit with dogs, so that’s an enthusiastic yes. Detroit has embraced pet-friendly tourism with open arms, recognizing that many travelers consider their furry companions part of the family. Hotels across the city, particularly in the downtown and surrounding revitalized neighborhoods, offer welcoming amenities for pets. Shinola, for one, will greet your pup with a tennis ball and a bed as aesthetic as it is cozy, reflecting its brand’s commitment to thoughtful design and hospitality. A maintenance worker at The Siren liked bringing my big mutt handfuls of tiny Milk Bones, showcasing the genuine warmth and attention to detail you can expect. Every hotel listed here welcomes dogs, often with special provisions like water bowls, treats, and designated walking areas. While many hotels typically publish weight limits for pets, my personal experience, and that of many other visitors, suggests that Detroit hotels often exhibit a flexible and accommodating approach. So, whether you have a small chihuahua or a large golden retriever, Detroit’s hospitality industry is ready to make your canine companion feel right at home, making it an ideal destination for travelers who don’t want to leave their pets behind. Which hotels in Detroit offer the best views of the city? Detroit’s downtown hotels are clustered in such a way that you can admire the others from almost whichever you choose, creating a dynamic urban panorama. For breathtaking bird’s-eye views that stretch across the city’s historic skyline and beyond, ask for a high floor at the Element Detroit at the Metropolitan, the David Whitney, Roost Detroit, or The Siren Hotel. Each of these properties occupies a meticulously restored historic building, offering unique vantage points. From the upper floors of the Element, housed in the iconic Metropolitan Building, you can witness the architectural diversity and the bustling street life below. The David Whitney, with its stunning central atrium, provides views of Grand Circus Park and the surrounding historic structures. Roost Detroit, known for its stylish apartment-style accommodations, offers expansive vistas that capture the evolving cityscape. The Siren Hotel, nestled within the Wurlitzer Building, provides intimate yet sweeping views of Woodward Avenue and the adjacent architectural gems. For a different perspective, a lower floor at Shinola Hotel gets you a front-row seat to the humming main drag that is Woodward Avenue, allowing you to immerse yourself in the street-level energy of the revitalized downtown. Furthermore, many rooms at The Detroit Club and The Foundation Hotel, located closer to the Detroit River, offer the unique experience of seeing Canada across the water, a rare international vista from a major American city. The interplay of historic facades, modern high-rises, and the distant shimmer of the Detroit River ensures that nearly every window in these establishments frames a memorable scene of this vibrant metropolis. How we choose the best hotels in Detroit Every hotel on this list has been selected independently by our editors and written by a Condé Nast Traveler journalist who knows the destination and has visited that property. Our rigorous selection process ensures that our recommendations are not merely based on online reviews or press releases but on genuine, firsthand experiences. When choosing hotels, our editors consider properties across various price points, ensuring a diverse range of options that cater to different budgets and preferences. Crucially, we prioritize establishments that offer an authentic and insider experience of a destination. This means looking beyond standard amenities to identify hotels that truly embody the spirit and culture of Detroit. Key criteria include exceptional design, which often means thoughtful restoration of historic buildings or innovative contemporary aesthetics; a prime location that provides easy access to key attractions and a sense of place; impeccable service that anticipates guest needs; and a commitment to sustainability credentials, reflecting a broader responsibility towards the community and environment. Our aim is to guide travelers not just to a place to sleep, but to an integral part of their Detroit journey, ensuring their stay enhances their overall exploration of this remarkable and resilient city. Post navigation Why Portland, Maine’s Food Scene is More Than Just a ‘Foodie’ Trend The Deep Dive: How Luxury Travel is Redefining Wellness Through Immersive Water Therapies