The Pocket Watch Renaissance: How Tommy Shelby’s Timepiece Ignited a Modern Craze

The iconic silhouette of Tommy Shelby, the brooding Birmingham gangster brought to life by Cillian Murphy in the critically acclaimed series Peaky Blinders, has captivated audiences worldwide since its debut in 2013. While his signature haircut – a stark, aggressively short back and sides – has undoubtedly influenced countless style trends, a more discerning eye has been drawn to the intricate accessories that define Shelby’s character. Foremost among these is his pocket watch, a symbol of his calculated ambition and an emblem of a bygone era that is experiencing a remarkable resurgence in contemporary culture.

Tommy Shelby’s favored timepiece is widely believed to be a Waltham railroad pocket watch, a robust and reliable instrument favored by railway workers for its precision and durability during the early 20th century. In the initial seasons of the show, this watch is depicted in a rich gold, later transitioning to more subdued yet equally distinguished platinum or silver finishes. It is habitually worn on a chain, meticulously threaded through the fabric of his impeccably tailored waistcoat, a subtle yet powerful statement of his refined taste and meticulous attention to detail, even amidst the gritty milieu of his criminal empire. This choice of accessory is not merely aesthetic; it reflects a historical period where such timepieces were essential tools and status symbols, deeply embedded in the fabric of daily life.

The anticipation surrounding the forthcoming spin-off film, Peaky Blinders: The Immortal Man, has undoubtedly amplified interest in Mr. Shelby’s sartorial choices, particularly his signature pocket watch. Google searches related to Shelby’s watch have reportedly surged by a staggering 100 percent, indicating a significant spike in public curiosity. This raises a pertinent question: is the pocket watch truly making a comeback in everyday wear, or is it confined to the realm of costume and cosplay?

Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, the managing director of Fears Watch Company, a venerable institution with roots stretching back to 1846, observes a "gentle but noticeable return of interest in pocket watches." He acknowledges that pocket watches are unlikely to regain their former mainstream ubiquity, but suggests that their appeal lies beyond mere practicality. "They are never going to be mainstream again, but that is not really the point," Bowman-Scargill explains. "What I have noticed is a broader shift in how people are thinking about objects in general. There is a growing appreciation for things that feel more considered, more mechanical, more real in a way. Pocket watches naturally sit within that world." This sentiment points to a wider cultural inclination towards tangible, craftsmanship-driven objects in an increasingly digital and ephemeral world.

Bowman-Scargill further elaborates on the potent influence of popular culture, stating, "Shows like Peaky Blinders have a strong influence because they reintroduce objects like pocket watches in a way that feels natural and character driven, rather than nostalgic for nostalgia’s sake." This suggests that the show’s narrative authentically integrates the pocket watch as an extension of Tommy Shelby’s persona, making it aspirational rather than merely a retro affectation. This nuanced portrayal allows viewers to connect with the object on a deeper level, appreciating its historical context and its symbolic weight within the narrative.

The resurgence of interest in pocket watches is not confined to the realm of historical dramas and their enthusiasts; it is also making a significant impact within the prestigious world of Haute Horlogerie. Earlier this year, Audemars Piguet, a Swiss manufacturer renowned for its exceptional watchmaking prowess, celebrated its 150th anniversary with the unveiling of the extraordinary 150 Heritage Pocket Watch. This exquisite timepiece serves as a profound homage to Audemars Piguet’s rich horological legacy. It is important to note that Audemars Piguet played a pivotal role in the early adoption of wristwatches, initially positioning them as functional instruments rather than mere decorative trinkets. The 150 Heritage Pocket Watch masterfully incorporates a series of time-honored artisanal techniques, including the meticulous Grand Feu enamelling, a centuries-old art form that imbues the dial with unparalleled depth and brilliance, and a meticulously hand-crafted chain, ensuring every detail reflects the brand’s commitment to unparalleled craftsmanship.

At its heart beats the exceptionally powerful Calibre 1150 movement, a testament to Audemars Piguet’s engineering expertise. The watch also features a sophisticated Universal Calendar, a complex complication that elegantly displays the date, day, month, and even leap years, visible through the sapphire crystal caseback. The exclusivity of this masterpiece is further underscored by its rarity; only two unique pieces were ever produced, making it a coveted treasure for the most discerning collectors. This commitment to reviving and celebrating traditional watchmaking techniques in a modern context highlights the enduring appeal of mechanical complexity and artistic mastery.

In March, Louis Vuitton, a global icon of luxury and travel, also introduced a captivating new pocket watch, the Escale au Mont Fiji. This timepiece represents a striking departure from the traditional aesthetics associated with Mr. Shelby’s favored accessory. Instead, the latest creation in Louis Vuitton’s Escale Autour du Monde (Voyage Around the World) collection is a miniature work of art. It vividly depicts Ebisu, a revered figure in Japanese folklore, skillfully navigating a wooden boat against a backdrop of snow-capped peaks. The precious cargo aboard Ebisu’s vessel? A meticulously crafted pile of iconic Louis Vuitton trunks, a playful yet elegant nod to the brand’s heritage of luxury travel.

The craftsmanship involved in the Escale au Mont Fiji is truly breathtaking. The watch is powered by a manual-winding LFT AU14.03 caliber, and remarkably, each of its 561 individual components were meticulously handcrafted. This artisanal dedication extends to the smallest details, from the delicate Sakura blossoms that artfully adorn the scene surrounding the boat to the miniature compass ingeniously positioned at the 12 o’clock mark. The entire ensemble is further elevated by an opulent finishing touch of 60 baguette-cut sapphires, adding a dazzling sparkle to this horological masterpiece.

The highly intricate and artistic nature of these newly released pocket watches underscores their evolving role in contemporary culture. They are increasingly viewed not as a primary functional method for timekeeping, but rather as profound style statements and unique forms of personal expression. Emmanuel Breguet, the esteemed vice president and head of patrimony at Breguet, a brand synonymous with historical excellence in watchmaking, articulates this shift in perception. He believes that the resurgence of the pocket watch is largely driven by a desire for novelty and an appreciation for pieces that evoke a sense of history and heritage. "For younger collectors," Breguet explains, "it is partly about investment but also about enjoyment. For special occasions, they will want to dress up […] so will wear a pocket watch." This suggests that pocket watches are becoming integral components of formal attire and curated personal style, adding a touch of vintage sophistication to modern ensembles.

Bowman-Scargill further elaborates on this nuanced perspective, emphasizing the experiential aspect of owning and using a pocket watch in the 21st century. "Nobody really needs a pocket watch anymore in a practical sense, so what you are left with is the experience of using one," he states. "It becomes more about the ritual of it. Taking it out of a pocket, opening the case, and checking the time in a slightly slower, more deliberate way." This ritualistic engagement with the timepiece transforms the act of telling time into a moment of mindful pause, a deliberate counterpoint to the rapid pace of modern life. It is this inherent romance and tangible connection to the past, amplified by the cultural resonance of characters like Tommy Shelby, that is driving the pocket watch’s captivating renaissance. The appeal lies not just in the precision of the mechanism, but in the story it tells, the craftsmanship it embodies, and the personal connection it fosters. As luxury watch prices continue to fluctuate, with brands like Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and Tudor implementing significant increases, the enduring value of meticulously crafted, historically significant timepieces like the pocket watch becomes even more apparent. Similarly, the revival of classic watch lines, such as the Omega Constellation, further illustrates a growing appreciation for horological heritage. Even in the high-octane world of Formula 1, drivers are often seen sporting coveted timepieces, demonstrating the enduring allure of exceptional watches across diverse spheres of influence.