Where the Chefs Eat: Trevor Gulliver’s Favorite Restaurants in London (and Beyond)

St. John Smithfield, with its deliberately restrained, industrial interior, might not aesthetically shock today’s diners accustomed to minimalist chic. However, when it first opened its doors three decades ago in 1994, its stark space, unconventional location adjacent to the bustling meat market, and revolutionary menu were nothing short of groundbreaking. At a time when London’s fine dining scene often gravitated towards more opulent, classical French or nouvelle cuisine aesthetics, St. John offered a radical counterpoint. It championed an honesty of ingredients and an unpretentious environment that quickly set a new benchmark. And in the three decades since, no matter how many gastronomic establishments boasting exposed stainless-steel interiors and concrete floors have emerged, few have managed to genuinely challenge St. John’s singular position at the pinnacle of London’s culinary hierarchy. Its unwavering commitment to its founding principles has cemented its status not just as a restaurant, but as a culinary institution, a lodestar for integrity and innovation.

St. John didn’t just serve food; it pioneered a philosophy: "nose-to-tail" eating. This approach, advocating the use of every part of an animal, from snout to trotters, was more than a culinary trend; it was a deeply ethical and sustainable stance that challenged wastefulness and celebrated the full spectrum of flavour and texture. At a time when British cooking was still shaking off its drab post-war reputation, and "fine dining" often meant imported luxury ingredients, St. John’s celebration of offal, forgotten cuts, and robust British produce was revolutionary. It encouraged a profound respect for the animal and its provenance, a principle that has since been widely adopted, albeit sometimes superficially, across the global culinary landscape. Since its inception, St. John’s influence has steadily grown, expanding beyond its original Smithfield outpost to encompass no less than three distinct restaurants (including St. John Bread and Wine in Spitalfields and St. John Marylebone), three dedicated bakeries renowned for their sourdough and iconic doughnuts, and even a French vineyard, Domaine Treloar, reflecting Gulliver’s deep passion for wine. This organic growth, remarkably, has been achieved while nabbing a coveted Michelin star – a testament to consistent excellence and adherence to their core values.

Gulliver, a born-and-bred Londoner, reflects on this expansion with characteristic pragmatism: "All the St. John’s came out of circumstance. There was never a plan; they are never the same and always the same, if that makes sense." This paradoxical statement encapsulates the St. John ethos – each new venture, whether a restaurant or a bakery, emerges from a specific need or opportunity, yet each faithfully upholds the foundational principles of quality, simplicity, and nose-to-tail cooking. Before becoming one of the most highly respected restaurateurs in the world, Gulliver’s professional journey took an unconventional path, beginning in the vibrant, chaotic world of music-industry merchandise production. His first foray into hospitality was with The Fire Station in Waterloo, a venture he successfully built and later sold. It was after this, through a chance introduction by their shared olive oil supplier, that he met Fergus Henderson, then cooking at The French House in Soho. This serendipitous encounter proved to be a pivotal moment. Gulliver, having found a promising site in Smithfield, presented it to Henderson, and their shared vision for a truly authentic, unpretentious dining experience quickly solidified. The rest, as the annals of gastronomic history confirm, is the story of St. John. Their partnership, marrying Henderson’s visionary cooking with Gulliver’s astute business acumen and uncompromising standards, created a restaurant that has not only endured but thrived, shaping British cuisine for generations.

When the conversation inevitably turns to his personal dining preferences, Gulliver is quick to issue a disclaimer, revealing his aversion to the reductive concept of "favorites." "Firstly, let me start with a disclaimer," he states with his trademark directness. "There is no such thing, well, except for the family curry house, as a favorite restaurant, and for a restaurateur, it is an invidious task when asked to make such a list." He draws a parallel to the equally challenging question of a "favorite wine," explaining, "My answer is always that it depends on where, with whom, the weather, and the when." This nuanced perspective underscores his profound understanding of dining as an holistic experience, where context is as crucial as cuisine. Furthermore, as a proud Londoner, he feels a certain geographical obligation: "Then there are my London roots; I’ll be in trouble if I didn’t stray beyond the north and south circulars." Despite his reluctance, and perhaps out of good-natured compliance, Gulliver ultimately shares a curated selection of his beloved go-to establishments across London and wider England. He prefaces this list with a humble apology for its brevity, acknowledging, "It is humbly that I apologize for making such a list, to all of those who really should be on it, too!" Nonetheless, for those seeking authentic and exceptional dining experiences, his recommendations serve as an invaluable, solid starting point.

Sweetings, London

"Sweetings in the City has always been there, and I recently went to raise a glass to their 125th birthday," Gulliver recounts, highlighting the enduring legacy of this London institution. "It never wavers, following its own patterns and routines set over the years. Sweetings is a happy anachronism." Indeed, located amidst the ever-evolving skyscrapers and glass towers of the City of London, Sweetings stands as a remarkable time warp. This Grade II-listed building, which first opened its doors in 1889, appears largely untouched by the passage of time. Its interior is defined by wooden stools, a long bar, and low tables, fostering an atmosphere of timeless charm where patrons are simply encouraged to "sit where you can." For over a century, Sweetings has been dedicated to serving impeccably grilled, fried, and poached fish to a loyal clientele, from city workers to those who make a special pilgrimage just for its unique experience. It represents a living piece of London’s culinary history, a bastion of tradition in a constantly modernizing metropolis. Gulliver’s personal recommendation for setting the scene before lunch is a "Black Velvet" – a classic cocktail blending stout and champagne – served from a pewter mug while standing at the bar, accompanied by a plate of fresh oysters. This ritual speaks to the restaurant’s unpretentious elegance and its deep connection to historical British dining customs.

Bouchon Racine, London

Gulliver, a frequent visitor to Lyon, the gastronomic heartland of France, expresses enthusiasm for the emergence of authentic "bouchons" in London. "We now have two standout (and true) bouchons in London," he notes. One such gem is Bouchon Racine, conveniently located "just around our Smithfield corner." His advice to potential diners is simple yet compelling: "Go online and read the classic menu, and you will not be disappointed, but you should feel pangs of hunger because this is a bouchon as it should be." Despite being a relatively recent addition to London’s dining scene, Bouchon Racine possesses an uncanny ability to evoke a sense of long-established tradition. "When you’re in there, it feels as though it’s existed in that space for decades," Gulliver observes. The restaurant has rapidly garnered widespread acclaim, with critics like Jay Rayner declaring himself a "huge, dribbling admirer," making securing a table increasingly challenging. The menu is a homage to classic French cooking, deeply inspired by the hearty, unpretentious fare of Lyon and the bistros of Paris. Diners can expect iconic dishes such as escargot, steak tartare, rabbit, confit de canard, generously portioned cote de boeuf, and the delightful simplicity of petit pots au chocolat. Complementing this authentic cuisine is an incredible, and unsurprisingly, French-led wine list. Furthermore, Gulliver highly recommends the pub located directly beneath Racine, The Three Compasses, for its exceptional counter lunch menu, particularly a "proper jambon beurre," a testament to simple, high-quality ingredients.

The French House, London

"The French House Dining Room is above Dean Street, with Soho life passing below the windows," Gulliver describes, painting a vivid picture of this iconic establishment. The French House is far more than just a restaurant; it is a true institution, its walls steeped in over a century of bohemian history. From legendary actors and musicians to revered artists like Francis Bacon, even royalty, and of course, dedicated foodies, its clientele has always been as diverse as it is distinguished. The dining room, presided over by chef Neil, draws its culinary philosophy from his experiences in the "small, intimate, local, and popular" great kitchens of France. This influence translates into a menu that changes almost daily, handwritten to reflect the freshest seasonal produce and the chef’s creative impulses. It is laden with traditional dishes that resonate with a timeless appeal, such as fresh oysters, rich rillettes, confit garlic and goats’ curd on toast, silky chicken liver parfait, and adventurous chargrilled lambs’ hearts. These offerings are just a glimpse into a menu that consistently celebrates robust flavours and classic techniques, cementing The French House’s reputation as a cornerstone of Soho’s vibrant and ever-evolving culinary landscape. It stands as a testament to the enduring allure of simplicity, quality, and a deeply ingrained sense of place.

Dastaan, Epsom and Leeds

When Gulliver mentions his "family curry house," he’s referring to Dastaan, a place that holds a special, personal significance. "At Dastaan, the people have more than just excellent credentials, and it’s more than simply delicious food: the busy curry house noise and bustle make for the perfect soundtrack," he enthuses. Located in Ewell, Surrey – a location that often prompts the question, "where’s that?" – its slightly off-the-beaten-path situation only adds to its charm and makes it "more special." Dastaan, a favourite not just for Gulliver’s family but also for many of his industry friends, represents the quintessential "go-to" curry place. The team behind Dastaan brings a wealth of experience, including stints at renowned establishments, ensuring a level of culinary expertise that elevates their Indian cuisine beyond the ordinary. While there is also a Dastaan in Leeds, the Epsom restaurant is described as not being large, ensuring an intimate and consistent dining experience across all its tables. It embodies the comforting familiarity and vibrant energy that makes a local curry house an indispensable part of community life and a cherished destination for those in the know.

The Seahorse, Dartmouth

Anticipating an upcoming visit, Gulliver speaks of The Seahorse in Dartmouth with palpable excitement. "We will be going to The Seahorse in Dartmouth soon, and it’s certainly not a chore; we’ll be smiling, seated at our banquette amongst friends," he envisions. "The bounty of the seas will be upon us, in good company, provenance, and pleasure." This eloquent description perfectly captures the essence of The Seahorse, a restaurant revered globally for its unparalleled celebration of fresh seafood from the Devonshire coast. Its reputation attracts a diverse clientele, from discerning local residents to international Michelin-star gazers. The culinary experience at The Seahorse is deeply rooted in showcasing the finest local produce, particularly the abundant seafood. Celebrated chef Angela Hartnett is a vocal admirer, specifically praising their red mullet, while the restaurant’s Torbay scallops are frequently highlighted as a must-try dish. Located in the picturesque coastal town of Dartmouth, The Seahorse benefits from direct access to the freshest catches, which are then expertly prepared with a focus on simple, yet refined techniques that allow the quality of the ingredients to shine. It is a destination that embodies the very best of British coastal dining, promising not just a meal, but a memorable culinary journey.

Trevor Gulliver’s influence on the British dining scene is profound and enduring. Through St. John, he and Fergus Henderson not only created a restaurant but ignited a movement that championed authenticity, sustainability, and a deep respect for ingredients. His personal dining recommendations, though reluctantly shared, are a testament to these very values. They highlight establishments that, regardless of their specific cuisine or location, share a common thread of integrity, timelessness, and a genuine commitment to their craft. In a world increasingly dominated by fleeting trends and superficial spectacle, Gulliver remains a steadfast advocate for substance, proving that true gastronomic greatness lies not in celebrity, but in unwavering quality and an honest approach to food.