Whisky galore – and now plenty more besides: exploring the Scottish island of Islay

The welcome inside is as immediate and comforting as the first spoonful of creamy fish chowder, its rich aroma promising succour. "We’ve plenty of fresh seafood just in," the server announces, a temptation I cannot resist. I eagerly order the seafood plate, a substantial bowl for one, designed for a truly hungry soul. Soon, I am lost in the delightful task of picking and cracking my way through a generous bounty of fat, sweet langoustines and succulent crab claws, complemented by hot, buttery scallops infused with a hint of whisky, all served with ample slices of crusty bread and butter to soak up every drop of flavour. This initial culinary encounter is a delicious revelation, hinting at a gastronomic landscape far richer than Islay’s renowned reputation suggests.

The island of Islay, nestled off the rugged west coast of Scotland, has long been inextricably linked with its liquid gold. Famed globally as ‘Whisky Isle,’ its identity is predominantly forged by its ten, soon to be eleven, working distilleries, each producing distinct, often heavily peated, single malts that command respect and devotion from connoisseurs worldwide. Yet, as I discover over several days of cycling through its windswept landscapes, whisky’s influence extends far beyond the production of spirits. It is a powerful, multifaceted force actively nurturing an island economy where traditional sectors like agriculture, fishing, and hospitality have historically grappled with the challenge of providing stable, year-round employment. The whisky industry, through direct investment, job creation, and fostering a robust visitor economy, is proving to be a vital anchor, offering resilience and a tangible future to a community that has faced significant demographic and economic shifts over centuries, dating back to the devastating Clearances that saw Islay’s population plummet from an estimated 15,000 to just over 3,000 today.

This profound impact is perhaps best exemplified at Bruichladdich, one of Islay’s more unique distilleries. While it may not be the largest in terms of sheer volume, it stands as the island’s largest private employer, embodying a commitment to local integration that begins with the very grain. The distillery’s journey took a significant turn after being mothballed multiple times in the 1990s. When it was acquired by a pair of visionary wine merchants, they posed a fundamental question: why was the barley arriving at the distillery sourced from disparate locations? Drawing parallels with viticulture, they posited that the terroir – the environmental factors influencing a crop – of the grain itself must impart a unique character to the whisky. This insight sparked a revolutionary approach to local sourcing.

They embarked on an ambitious program to reintroduce barley farming to Islay, a practice that had largely ceased since before the Second World War. Farmers, understandably, met this proposition with caution, wary of cultivating an unfamiliar crop, especially given the formidable challenge posed by the tens of thousands of migratory Greenland geese that descend upon the island, with a particular fondness for young barley fields. The closure of Islay’s last creamery in 2000 had already devastated the local dairy industry, leaving many farmers seeking alternative land uses. Bruichladdich offered a lifeline, guaranteeing to purchase the crop regardless of yield, thereby mitigating risk for the farmers. Today, this initiative has flourished, with 21 Islay farms now dedicated to growing barley for the distillery, supplying an impressive half of its total requirements. Furthermore, early experiments with rye cultivation have shown promising results, indicating a continued expansion of local agricultural opportunities.

Eva MacIntyre, a proud Ileach (a person from Islay), embodies the deep connection between the island and its whisky. After experiencing life on the mainland, she chose to return to her roots, now serving as a brand ambassador for Bruichladdich. As she leads me up the hill to the distillery’s pristine water source, she reflects on her upbringing: "Growing up on Islay, whisky was a way of life. It’s not just a drink; it’s all about who you share it with." Her passion for whisky is deeply personal; she hones her presentation skills by practising with her grandfather, a testament to the intergenerational bond with the craft. Her story is far from unique, as she explains: "Every family has at least one person working in whisky," highlighting the industry’s pervasive presence and the wealth of opportunities it provides.

The whisky industry also fosters diverse and specialized employment. I meet Kate Hannett, a full-time forager whose fascinating role involves traversing Islay’s peaty bogs and rugged hillsides to gather the 22 distinct botanicals that infuse the Botanist gin, another renowned spirit produced by Bruichladdich. Her brother, Adam, holds the esteemed position of Bruichladdich’s Master Blender, having ascended through the ranks after starting as a tour guide. Lisa Matthews, the Assistant Blender, is also an Ileach and holds the distinction of being the distillery’s first female blender, with her brother serving as a brand ambassador in the US. These interconnected family ties and career paths illustrate a vibrant ecosystem of employment, offering young people reasons to stay, develop specialized skills, and build meaningful careers on the island – opportunities that many other rural communities can only dream of providing.

The distilleries are not merely industrial sites; they are deeply woven into the social and economic fabric of Islay. I repeatedly hear stories of genuine camaraderie and mutual support, with distilleries frequently lending equipment and assistance to one another when machinery inevitably breaks down. "It’s really not competitive," Eva affirms, emphasizing a spirit of community over rivalry. Beyond direct employment, the whisky industry’s economic ripple effect extends to critical infrastructure. Islay benefits from a full-time fire service, a rare and invaluable asset in rural Scotland. Even the local swimming pool leverages waste energy from Bowmore distillery, showcasing an innovative approach to sustainability and resource management that directly benefits the island’s residents. This demonstrates how a dominant industry can contribute holistically to community well-being, enhancing public services and quality of life.

Beyond whisky, other island-made beverages are also thriving, drawing on Islay’s natural resources. At Islay Ales, another locally brewed drink begins its life with the same high-quality barley and soft west coast water. The brewery, established in 2004, recently opened a new, expanded brewhouse last year, a testament to its growing success. Its commitment to sustainability is evident in its practices: the spent grain, or ‘draff,’ a byproduct of the brewing process, is repurposed as feed for local farms, creating a circular economy. Furthermore, wastewater is treated through a natural reed bed system, minimizing environmental impact. Operating a food and drink business on Islay, however, is not without its unique challenges. The island’s growing season is notoriously short, and the weather can shift dramatically "before you’ve finished your pint," as one local quips. "After the Agricultural Show, which is the third Thursday in August, it’s winter," I’m told, underscoring the narrow window for agricultural activity.

In the realm of artisanal food, Emma Goudie of Islay Cocoa has carved a niche, creating exquisite chocolates that are both a delight and a practical product, easily transportable and designed not to directly compete with other burgeoning island food businesses. Her philosophy prioritizes quality above all else, but she acknowledges her good fortune in the exceptional local produce available. "It’s quality first, but I’m lucky that the produce we have here is excellent," she states. Her current range artfully incorporates several local ingredients, including sea salt from Orsay, coffee from Argyll, and sourdough from neighbouring Jura. Crucially, she also collaborates closely with the whisky industry, crafting chocolates specifically designed to pair with expressions from distilleries like Ardbeg and for tasting tours at Caol Ila. This symbiotic relationship, she notes, "grew quite organically and in the best way," demonstrating the interconnectedness of Islay’s food and drink landscape.

The island’s hospitality sector, too, is experiencing a renaissance, blending deep-rooted traditions with contemporary culinary innovation. Iain and Alexander MacLellan represent the fourth and fifth generations of a family whose hospitality business dates back to the late 19th century. At Lochindaal Seafood Kitchen, Iain shares vivid memories of growing up alongside the very fishers who now supply his restaurant, recalling days spent cooking fresh mackerel and scallops on their boats. "I’ve been 52 years behind the bar," he proudly tells me, a testament to his lifelong dedication. The restaurant itself evolved from the family pub at Lochindaal Hotel, spurred by popular demand. As Iain succinctly puts it, "we ran out of space to serve our seafood platters," highlighting the overwhelming success of their fresh, locally sourced offerings.

At the Port Charlotte Hotel, Chef Ajish Johny brings an international flair, having honed his skills in kitchens across India, Dubai, on cruise ships, and in Wales, before finding his home on Islay four years ago. His menus are a delightful fusion, featuring a daily curry alongside pristine Loch Gruinart oysters, locally caught fish, and burgers crafted from beef sourced from the nearby Octomore Farm. "We never compromise on quality," he asserts, underscoring a commitment to excellence. He recognizes the discerning tastes of his clientele: "People on Islay are well travelled. They know what good food is," reflecting a sophisticated local palate.

And then there is Ardbeg House in Port Ellen, a striking example of brand extension and revitalization. This once traditional, somewhat tired hotel has been dramatically transformed into a maximalist, immersive extension of the Ardbeg whisky brand. It boasts 12 quirkily themed bedrooms, a whimsical fishing boat suspended over the bar, and a theatrical restaurant adorned with a beaten-metal ceiling, bold lighting, and tables ingeniously crafted from marble bathroom offcuts. It’s an exuberant, visually stimulating space, yet the food matches the ambition, proving to be both excellent and surprisingly well priced. I indulge in bread made with eight-year-old Ardbeg and thyme, followed by a delicate langoustine bisque with pickled fennel and tarragon. The main course, a perfectly cooked sea bass, arrives with tender cabbage, kale, roast potatoes, and a split beurre blanc. My taxi driver had earlier insisted I try the sticky toffee pudding, a recommendation echoed by my server. Taking the hint, I am richly rewarded with a treacly, comforting wedge of cake, perfectly paired with a scoop of whisky ice-cream. Outside, as if on cue, the rain begins anew, a fitting end to a day of discovery.

Before the devastating Highland Clearances, Islay supported a population of approximately 15,000 people. Today, that number stands at just over 3,000. While Islay may have been historically built, in part, on the foundations of its burgeoning whisky industry, it is increasingly evident that whisky is now helping to build something back: not just economic prosperity, but a resilient community. It fosters sustainable farming practices, supports thriving breweries and innovative food businesses, and creates diverse, fulfilling employment opportunities. More than just a spirit, whisky is providing compelling reasons for people to stay, to return, and to invest in the future of this remarkable Scottish island, ensuring its vibrant cultural and economic survival.

Ailsa Sheldon was a guest of Hostelling Scotland and Bruichladdich Distillery. Port Charlotte youth hostel has dorm beds from £28 and private rooms from £78 (open late March to early October). Travel to Islay from the Scottish mainland by Caledonian MacBrayne (CalMac) ferry from Kennacraig or by flying with Loganair from Glasgow. Hire bikes from Islay E-Wheels in Port Ellen from £25 a day for non-electric, £35 for electric, with delivery available across the island.