The Unlikely Comeback: Velvet Reclaims Its Throne in High Fashion

Fashion has a peculiar habit of resurrecting trends from the most unexpected corners of its history, often defying initial skepticism and even outright dismissal. Just as ballet flats, once relegated to the archives of early 2000s fads, have made a triumphant return to global runways and city streets, so too has velvet, a fabric once deemed garish and outdated, begun its opulent resurgence. After a period of conspicuous absence in the early 2020s, following its ubiquitous and eventually overwhelming presence in 2016, velvet is once again commanding attention on the most prestigious catwalks, signaling a significant shift in sartorial sensibilities.

The journey of velvet from a symbol of luxury and opulence to a perceived fashion faux pas, and now back to the height of chic, mirrors the cyclical nature of style itself. In 2016, the plush, tactile quality of velvet was inescapable. It adorned everything from dresses and suits to accessories and even home décor. However, its very prominence led to a dilution of its exclusivity, and public perception gradually shifted, branding it as “tacky” and “garish.” As the decade turned, velvet largely disappeared from the fashion landscape, seemingly a relic of a bygone era. Yet, the latest collections from esteemed designers are emphatically proving that this rich textile is far from retired.

This season, the runways have been awash with the luxurious sheen of velvet, demonstrating its versatility and enduring appeal. Anna Sui, a veteran designer known for her eclectic and bohemian aesthetic, embraced velvet with a collection that featured earth-toned suits and delicate lace-trimmed dresses, evoking a distinctly Victorian romanticism. This nostalgic mood was echoed by other designers, including Bora Aksu and Ann Demeulemeester, who also incorporated velvet into their collections with a similar historical resonance. However, the material’s appeal extends far beyond the realm of vintage-inspired fashion. Even brands celebrated for their minimalist design codes, such as Khaite, Calvin Klein, and Fforme, have boldly integrated velvet into their offerings, proving that the fabric can be adapted to a modern, pared-back aesthetic. Ralph Lauren, a titan of classic American style, also dipped its toe into the velvet trend, showcasing sophisticated roll-neck sweaters, sharp blazers, and elegant floor-length dresses in rich moss and chocolate hues, demonstrating its adaptability across a spectrum of styles.

The resurgence of velvet is not confined to daytime wear; it is making a significant impact on eveningwear as well. Lanvin presented slinky gowns adorned with luxurious feather trims or dramatic fringed hems, adding a touch of decadent glamour. Richard Quinn’s designs were a testament to velvet’s sensuous appeal, with curvaceous and glistening dresses that reaffirmed its status as a premium material. For those who favor a more androgynous silhouette, Akris, Ulla Johnson, and Alaia all introduced impeccably tailored velvet suits, offering a sophisticated and powerful alternative. The image of a Calvin Klein velvet creation, as captured by Isidore Montag for Gorunway.com, exemplifies the brand’s ability to reimagine traditional materials with a contemporary edge. Similarly, Alaia’s velvet ensembles, photographed by Umberto Fratini for Gorunway.com, showcase the fabric’s ability to sculpt and define the silhouette with understated elegance.

The question on many fashion enthusiasts’ minds is: why now? The return of velvet coincides with a broader trend toward more ostentatious and expressive styles, a departure from the minimalist wardrobes that dominated the early 2020s. Animal prints and vibrant color combinations, once considered too bold, are also experiencing a revival. This suggests a cultural shift towards embracing maximalism and a desire for clothing that makes a statement. As the latter half of the decade unfolds, fashion seems to be veering in the opposite direction of austere simplicity, embracing richness, texture, and a touch of drama. While current temperatures might not be conducive to heavy velvet ensembles, the opportune moment to integrate these plush pieces into one’s wardrobe is precisely now, before the trend fully infiltrates the mainstream this coming fall.

The appeal of velvet lies in its inherent richness and tactile luxury. Its dense pile creates a unique play of light and shadow, lending garments a depth and dimensionality that few other fabrics can replicate. This inherent opulence makes it a natural fit for celebratory occasions and evening wear, but its current iteration showcases a remarkable adaptability. Designers are exploring velvet in a multitude of forms, from flowing, ethereal gowns to sharp, structured suits, proving its versatility beyond traditional eveningwear. The fabric’s ability to absorb and reflect light creates a captivating visual effect, making any garment crafted from it feel inherently special and luxurious.

For those looking to embrace the ornate feeling that velvet naturally exudes, exploring vintage pieces can be a rewarding endeavor. A dainty, embellished velvet blouse, for instance, can be a stunning focal point when paired with simple, unfussy bottoms. To avoid an overly dated or costume-like appearance, the key lies in balancing the richness of the velvet with more contemporary silhouettes. A pussy-bow blouse in velvet, for example, pairs beautifully with wide-leg trousers. The loose-leg silhouette of the trousers helps to ground the look, preventing it from feeling too theatrical and ensuring it remains fashion-forward. This juxtaposition of textures and volumes is a hallmark of modern styling, allowing the wearer to embrace vintage-inspired elements without sacrificing a contemporary edge.

Beyond embellishments and vintage finds, the ready-to-wear market is also offering more subdued yet equally chic velvet options. A velvet blazer, a garment that has been steadily regaining popularity, is an excellent entry point into the trend. While black remains a classic and undeniably chic choice, exploring velvet blazers in natural hues like moss green or rich chocolate brown can add a subtle yet impactful splash of color to an ensemble without appearing overly flamboyant. These muted tones offer a sophisticated alternative, demonstrating that velvet can be integrated into everyday wardrobes with ease. The versatility of the velvet blazer extends from formal occasions, where it can elevate a simple dress or tailored trousers, to more casual settings, where it can add a touch of polish to jeans and a t-shirt.

For individuals who remain somewhat hesitant about fully committing to the velvet trend, incorporating it into an evening wardrobe is a prudent starting point. A fitted black velvet gown, devoid of distracting prints or excessive embellishments, offers a sophisticated and timeless option that still aligns with minimalist aesthetics. The inherent sheen of the velvet provides enough visual interest, allowing the wearer to forgo loud jewelry or complex styling. This approach allows for an appreciation of the fabric’s luxurious qualities without overwhelming the overall look. The simplicity of such a gown underscores the power of texture in creating a sophisticated and memorable ensemble.

The broader trend towards more expressive and textural fabrics reflects a post-pandemic desire for joy and self-expression through clothing. After a period of uncertainty and a focus on comfort and practicality, consumers are increasingly seeking garments that offer a sense of escapism and indulgence. Velvet, with its inherent sensuousness and regal connotations, perfectly fulfills this need. Its return signifies a move away from the austerity of recent years towards a more celebratory and visually rich approach to dressing. The tactile nature of velvet invites touch and engagement, offering a sensory experience that can be both comforting and uplifting.

As designers continue to explore the multifaceted potential of velvet, we can expect to see it appear in an even wider array of applications. From luxurious loungewear to avant-garde outerwear, the fabric’s adaptability is its greatest asset. The key to successfully incorporating velvet into one’s wardrobe lies in understanding its inherent qualities and styling it with intention. Whether opting for a full velvet ensemble or a single statement piece, the fabric offers a timeless elegance and a touch of undeniable glamour. The current fashion landscape, with its embrace of bold textures and rich narratives, provides the perfect backdrop for velvet to reclaim its rightful place as a symbol of enduring style and luxurious appeal. The journey of velvet, from its peak in 2016 to its current resurgence, is a compelling reminder that fashion is a constant dialogue between past and present, with even the most seemingly dated trends holding the potential for a spectacular comeback.