Tracing 125 Years of Cycle Camping: A Modern E-Bike Adventure from Oxford to Walton-on-Thames

The early morning air, crisp and alive, carried the lyrical, cascading trill of skylarks as I navigated my e-bike through a nascent tapestry of pink and white hawthorn blossoms. The hedgerows, festooned with these delicate blooms, transformed the path into a living, breathing May Day parade on the very outskirts of Oxford. Though I considered myself well-acquainted with this venerable city, following National Cycle Route 57 on the electric bicycle I’d procured from Jericho’s vibrant streets unveiled an Oxford I hadn’t known – a network of hidden pathways and tranquil thoroughfares, hinting at secrets held for generations. This journey was more than just a scenic ride; it was a pilgrimage, a celebration of 125 years of outdoor adventure, tracing the footsteps of a pioneering spirit.

This year marks a monumental milestone for the Camping and Caravanning Club (CCC), celebrating its 125th anniversary as a cornerstone of British outdoor leisure. To honour this enduring legacy, I embarked on a personal 60-mile cycling and camping odyssey. My starting point was none other than Oxford, the intellectual heartland where this remarkable organisation first drew breath, and my destination, Walton-on-Thames, home to one of the most venerable campsites within the extensive CCC network. The expedition was designed to not only cover geographical distance but also to bridge the expanse of time, connecting the modern-day experience with the club’s foundational ethos.

The Camping and Caravanning Club, as we know it today, began its illustrious journey in 1901, originally conceived as the Association of Cycle Campers. Its inception was far from a casual affair, born from the shared vision of two remarkable individuals: Thomas Hiram Holding, an already fervent advocate for outdoor living, and his friend, the Rev E.C. Pitt-Johnson. It was during a visit to Rev Pitt-Johnson’s Oxford residence that these two visionaries, recognising a burgeoning public interest and an unmet demand for organised outdoor pursuits, decided to establish a formal club. Their foresight was profound; they promptly elected each other president and secretary, respectively, laying the groundwork for an institution that would shape the recreational landscape for generations. This period, the late Victorian and early Edwardian era, was a time of immense social change and technological advancement, particularly in transport. The bicycle, no longer the perilous penny-farthing but the more accessible "safety cycle," was democratising travel, offering unprecedented freedom to explore the countryside beyond urban confines. Holding and Pitt-Johnson tapped directly into this burgeoning desire for self-propelled adventure and connection with nature.

Back in those formative years, Thomas Hiram Holding was a true innovator, a man whose ingenuity extended beyond mere advocacy. He championed the "safety cycle" – a revolutionary design, remarkably similar to the bicycles we ride today, which rendered the cumbersome and often dangerous penny-farthing obsolete, making cycling accessible to a wider public. But Holding’s genius wasn’t confined to cycling; he was also a prolific inventor of camping equipment. From early lightweight tents crafted from ingenious materials and featuring collapsible poles to purpose-built cycle touring bags designed to efficiently carry gear, Holding meticulously engineered solutions that made multi-day cycle camping feasible and enjoyable. His philosophy, as Jo Cartwright, the dedicated archivist at the CCC, elucidates, was deeply rooted in an understanding of the profound health and wellbeing benefits derived from immersion in nature and physical activity. "Holding understood the health and wellbeing benefits people gained from camping," Cartwright explained, reflecting on my e-bike plans. "So, I think he would’ve embraced any new form of transport that facilitated that connection." This sentiment perfectly encapsulates the enduring spirit of the club – an adaptability and openness to innovation, whether it be a "safety cycle" of yesteryear or a modern e-bike.

While the modern camping landscape is undeniably dominated by the convenience of all-singing, all-dancing motorhomes, luxurious caravans, and the burgeoning popularity of pre-pitched glamping options – trends that sometimes appear to squeeze the traditional space reserved for humble tents – the Camping and Caravanning Club remains steadfast in its commitment to its roots. They emphatically assure me that simple tents are still very much welcomed across their extensive network of sites. It was with this reassurance, and my compact tent firmly stowed on my e-bike, that I commenced my journey. My initial plan involved breaking the 60-mile trek with an overnight stop at Bella Vista Camping in Radnage, a charming, family-run club site strategically positioned along the scenic Chiltern Cycleway, promising both convenience and natural beauty.

My departure from Oxford led me eastward, along a network of quiet country roads that soon opened into the picturesque landscapes of Oxfordshire and Buckinghamshire. The route guided me through the historic market towns of Wheatley and Thame. In Thame, a brief but essential stop was made at The Old Fisherman, a quintessential English pub, where I refuelled with a hearty sandwich and a much-needed coffee, soaking in the local atmosphere before continuing my journey. The path then transitioned onto the Phoenix Trail, an integral segment of National Cycle Route 57. This path, remarkably straight and smooth, offered a palpable sense of its former life as a disused railway track, once connecting communities to Princes Risborough. The scenery gradually shifted; the high-pitched calls of skylarks gave way to the majestic, silent soar of red kites, a common and welcome sight in this part of England. Gliding effortlessly on the easy, traffic-free track, I passed the venerable old station building at Bledlow and cycled beneath a disused railway bridge, glimpsing the abandoned platform where Towersey Halt once stood, a silent testament to a bygone era of rail travel, closed since 1963.

Before he channelled his energies into formalising the Association of Cycle Campers, Thomas Hiram Holding’s passion for camping was already well-established and deeply ingrained. His initial "method of camping" was profoundly influenced by a formative childhood experience – a wagon trek across the vast, untamed prairies of North America, an adventure that indelibly "hooked" him on the outdoor life. Later, his preferred mode of exploration involved canoeing through the serene waterways of Ireland, a testament to his adventurous spirit and adaptability. However, a pivotal moment arrived when an English friend revealed plans to embark on a week-long camping trip by tandem bicycle across Britain, seeking Holding’s expertise in attaching the necessary kit to the bike frame. This challenge sparked a revelation. Holding recounted, "We succeeded," and with characteristic understatement, declared in his seminal work, Cycle and Camp, published in 1897, "There was something in it." This seemingly simple observation marked a turning point, solidifying his belief in the transformative potential of cycle camping and setting the stage for the club’s formation just a few years later.

Upon arrival at Bella Vista Camping, the enduring appeal of traditional tent camping was evident. While motorhomes and caravans are indeed prevalent, I was genuinely pleased to discover a vast, dedicated field specifically for tents, a clear affirmation that the humble tent still holds a cherished place within the CCC network. This expansive green space sat adjacent to a charming paddock, home to a small flock of Soay sheep and a few curious alpacas, adding a pastoral charm to the setting. The facilities were excellent, providing a comforting blend of rustic appeal and essential modern comforts: hot showers and proper toilets, housed within a large, well-maintained mess tent, offered a welcome respite after a day of cycling. After setting up camp, a short, five-minute stroll led me to The Crown Pub, where I enjoyed a delicious dinner, immersing myself in the local village life. That night, with my e-bike battery quietly charging, I savoured a peaceful night’s sleep under canvas, ready for the next leg of my adventure.

The following morning, refreshed and invigorated, I prepared for the second part of my cycle tour, aiming for Walton-on-Thames. This destination held particular historical significance: the Walton CCC campsite, established in 1913, was once vividly described in a Golden Jubilee Souvenir booklet from 1963 as a charming tableau of "homemade tents, bamboo poles, hurricane lamps and wood fires." It painted a picture of early, earnest camping, a stark contrast to the sophisticated setups of today. Curious to witness what had changed and what had endured, I departed the undulating highs of the Chilterns and Route 57. My route then bore south, guiding me along a network of quieter country lanes that gracefully skirted the bustling edges of High Wycombe. The journey then took me through the vibrant, Thames-side towns of Marlow and Cookham, each offering glimpses of picturesque riverside life, before leading onto narrower cycle paths weaving between the historic towns of Maidenhead and Eton. During a lunch stop at the charming Crocus Cafe in Dorney, I was struck by the genuine curiosity of fellow patrons regarding my e-bike and camping setup. Many approached, intrigued by the concept of self-supported cycle touring, prompting questions about my route, equipment, and the joys of the open road. In these interactions, I felt a distinct echo of Thomas Hiram Holding, almost a century and a quarter ago, showcasing and popularising a distinct, adventurous way of holidaying in Britain.

An unexpected highlight of this leg of the journey was the magnificent Windsor Great Park. Its immaculately maintained, easy-to-navigate roads offered a stark and welcome contrast to the surprisingly challenging, quite "hairy" gravel tracks that marked my descent into Egham. This segment, while demanding, added an element of rugged adventure to the otherwise smooth journey. Post-Egham, the presence of well-defined, designated bike lanes through the urban sprawl of Staines and Chertsey provided a welcome sense of efficiency, allowing me to tick off the remaining miles towards my destination with relative ease and confidence.

The final flourish of the cycling journey was a delightful ferry crossing over the majestic River Thames, transporting me from Shepperton to Weybridge. This charming, traditional mode of transport felt particularly fitting, imbued with a sense of historical continuity, given that the very first campsite ever established within the CCC network once graced one of the verdant islands nestled within this stretch of the Thames, before its closure in 1909. It was a symbolic crossing, connecting my modern adventure to the club’s earliest roots.

Upon arrival, I found that the Walton campsite, perhaps owing to its specific historical context and location, offered no permanent facilities, making it primarily a haven for motorhomes and caravans, whose occupants bring their own chemical toilets. Adhering to modern eco-conscious camping principles, I had come prepared with my own environmentally friendly solution: a Poopaloo dry-powder toilet, demonstrating that traditional tent camping can indeed be both self-sufficient and responsible. My chosen pitch was serendipitously located next to a quaint hut, its interior adorned with sepia-toned photographs depicting tents from a century ago. These faded images offered a poignant visual dialogue between past and present, a silent reminder of the countless campers who had sought solace and adventure on these very grounds.

That night, ensconced in my tent at Walton, I delved into the pages of Holding’s The Campers Handbook, published in 1908. I found myself chuckling at the meticulous, and now delightfully anachronistic, descriptions of the correct attire for female cycle campers. Holding advised a skirt "that finishes three inches off the ground, with no slippery lining to avoid catching on the knickerbockers." This sartorial instruction, while amusing, served as a powerful reminder of the profound societal shifts that have occurred over the past 125 years. Back then, strict gender norms and expectations often confined women’s roles and restricted their freedom of movement. A lone woman undertaking such a cycling and camping trip would have been an anomaly, if not outright prohibited, and certainly not in the practical, comfortable leggings I wore. The "rational dress" movement, advocating for practical clothing for women, particularly for activities like cycling, was still gaining traction. The e-bike, in this context, wasn’t just a technological convenience; it was a symbol of modern emancipation, making hills and long distances more accessible, and allowing me to experience the freedom Holding envisioned, unburdened by the social strictures of his time.

Thomas Hiram Holding, with characteristic insight, once declared cycle camping a "power" that significantly contributed to the popularisation of camping as a whole. The Camping and Caravanning Club’s remarkable growth over the decades stands as a testament to his vision, with its membership swelling from an initial 150 individuals to an impressive network of over 300,000 households today. While camping exclusively by bicycle might now be considered a minority pursuit, eclipsed by the sheer volume of motorhomes and caravans, my weekend journey, tracing old routes and visiting the foundational campsites, offered a profound connection to its origins. It reinforced my belief that within the bustling thoroughfares and hidden passageways of towns and cities, there remains a dedicated community – a quiet rebellion, perhaps – of those who understand that the most rewarding journeys are often those still powered by the simple, enduring combination of pedals and an insatiable curiosity. The spirit of Holding, the pioneer, clearly lives on, continuing to inspire new generations to explore Britain’s landscapes, one pedal stroke at a time.

eBike hire was provided by Bainton Bikes in Oxford (e-bikes from £65 for 3 days). A pitch was given by Bella Vista Radnage (from £19 a night) and Walton-on-Thames campsite (from £20 for two nights members, £35 non-members). Annual CCC membership from £56.95.