Art trails, swimming spots and punt safaris, all easily accessible from Cambridge’s new train station

The opening of the £250 million Cambridge South station on June 28 marks a pivotal moment for regional transport and sustainable urban development. This state-of-the-art facility is set to be the inaugural station branded under the banner of Great British Railways, signaling a new era for the UK’s rail network. Strategically located adjacent to the sprawling Cambridge Biomedical Campus, Europe’s largest medical research facility, the station is designed to alleviate chronic traffic congestion that has long plagued this vital hub. The campus, a global epicentre for life sciences, attracts approximately 40,000 visitors daily, comprising researchers, medical professionals, and patients. The new station offers a direct, eco-friendly conduit to this powerhouse of innovation, significantly reducing reliance on private vehicles. Embracing principles of sustainable transport, Cambridge South boasts an impressive array of green features, including 1,000 cycle-parking spaces to encourage active travel, a biodiverse living roof that aids insulation and stormwater management while providing a habitat for local wildlife, and an array of solar panels generating renewable energy. These elements collectively position the station as a forward-thinking model for future infrastructure projects.

Cambridge, renowned globally as a scenic medieval city, grapples with the pervasive issue of congestion. Its historic cobbled alleys, charming as they are, become chokepoints for throngs of tourists, while its arterial roads frequently succumb to gridlock during peak hours. However, the true magic of Cambridge lies in its ability to offer unexpected pockets of wild tranquility, accessible without contributing to the urban traffic snarl. The city and its surrounds are a layered palimpsest of human and natural history, offering a wealth of discovery. Visitors can embark on a newly devised art trail that weaves through historical sites, experience unique bat safaris by punt along the river, or find serene contemplation within the peaceful expanse of the Cambridge University Botanic Garden, conveniently located near the busy central station.

For the past 15 years, Cambridge has been the author’s nearest city, fostering a deep familiarity with its nuances. The robust public transport network, featuring an extensive bus system and now three railway stations, facilitates easy navigation without the need for a car. Countless days have been spent exploring its hidden gems and expansive landscapes, leading to the publication of guides to routes like the Harcamlow Way. This ambitious 140-mile (227km) figure-of-eight walking route gracefully loops between Cambridge and Harlow, offering a comprehensive exploration of the region’s diverse scenery. Beyond the city limits, several rural bus routes provide gateways to stunning natural reserves. The dedicated busway, departing from Cambridge North station (which itself opened in 2017), provides a swift connection to the expansive Fen Drayton Lakes, a haven for wetland birds. Additionally, the number 1 bus to Fulbourn opens up access to orchid-rich fens and the ancient chalk-flowered Saxon earthwork of Fleam Dyke, areas of significant ecological and historical interest.

From the new Cambridge South station, a network of well-maintained walking and cycling paths radiates in all directions, inviting exploration. Following one such path towards the charming village of Trumpington, the journey offers a delightful pause at the Dao Cafe, a contemporary establishment known for its delectable bao buns and refreshing peach oolong tea. Trumpington itself holds centuries of history. Within its venerable village church, visitors can discover one of England’s oldest and most finely preserved brass monuments: the effigy of Sir Roger de Trumpington, who passed away in 1289. Depicted in a posture of prayer, clad in full chain mail, his feet rest upon a loyal lion-clawed dog, playfully biting his broadsword – a poignant glimpse into medieval chivalry and artistry. Just south of the church, archaeological excavations unearthed the remarkably preserved grave of a young Anglo-Saxon woman, a discovery that captivated historians and the public alike. Her burial, dating back to the 7th century, revealed a delicate gold-and-garnet cross upon her chest, a symbol of early Christianization and aristocratic status in Anglo-Saxon England, offering invaluable insights into the period’s material culture and beliefs.

Continuing north through the pastoral expanse of Grantchester Meadows, a quintessential English landscape famed for its literary associations with figures like Rupert Brooke, the journey offers a moment of refreshing immersion. The reedy River Cam, shaded by ancient willows, beckons for a wild swim, a cherished local tradition. Keeping one’s head above the cool, clear water, sun glints off ripples as the swimmer glides past waterlilies, observant moorhens, and the delicate blue clusters of straggling forget-me-nots. This stretch of the Cam, while not a true chalk stream, benefits from chalk-fed tributaries, contributing to its clarity and rich aquatic life. As the path leads further towards the city, it meanders through the verdant haven of Paradise nature reserve, an unexpected green lung nestled close to urban life. Here, birds are omnipresent: a Cetti’s warbler’s explosively loud song pierces the air from a dense reedbed, while a melodious song thrush serenades from a waterside alder. The gentle quacks of a mother duck issue warnings from a nest perched atop a tree stump, as her fluffy ducklings paddle serenely beneath, oblivious to the world’s rush.

A mere twenty minutes further on, the Cambridge University Botanic Garden presents itself in its full, fragrant glory, especially vibrant during the summer months. This world-renowned garden, established in 1831, serves as both a scientific resource and a public amenity, showcasing an incredible diversity of plant life from across the globe. In the scented garden, a symphony of buzzing bees dances among fragrant sage, invigorating lemon balm, and calming lavender. Elegant roses sprawl gracefully above delicate foxgloves and the intricate blooms of cranesbill, creating a visual and olfactory feast. Visitors can find respite on benches nestled amidst the frothy cow parsley, beneath the dappled shade of ancient walnut and cherry trees, listening to the distinctive calls of blackcaps and chiffchaffs. A short five-minute detour up the road leads to Maison Clement, an artisan bakery where a slice of exquisite apricot tart provides the perfect indulgence, enjoyed later on the train journey home.

In the last decade, the area around Cambridge’s central station has seen a significant revitalization of its hospitality sector, with several new and re-opened hotels catering to a range of tastes and budgets. Options span from the conveniently located Ibis, literally right next door, offering comfortable doubles from around £80, to the luxurious University Arms, an iconic establishment with rooms from approximately £175. The latter’s Parker’s Tavern brasserie offers a unique gourmet picnic hamper service, priced at £45 per person, available with just 24 hours’ notice, perfect for an alfresco dining experience. Among the city’s newer offerings is Hobson by Adina, an aparthotel providing stylish studios from about £125, ideal for longer stays or those seeking self-catering flexibility.

The following day, the journey begins with a short three-stop ride on bus 13, leading to the ancient Iron Age hill fort at Wandlebury Country Park. This site, managed by the Cambridge Past, Present & Future charity, offers a tranquil escape into history and nature. Visitors can stroll around its impressive wooded ramparts, remnants of a defensive structure that once protected an early settlement. Beyond these earthworks, flax-blue meadows, sweet with the scent of wild marjoram, stretch out, providing vital habitats for pollinators and a splash of summer colour. The grassy track of an old Roman road, a tangible link to millennia of human movement, runs through avenues of shady beeches and past hedges adorned with delicate pink dog roses, offering a profound sense of continuity.

Returning towards the city, one can embark on a captivating time-traveling experience to Victorian Cambridge, a period when the Arts and Crafts movement flourished. Visionaries like William Morris commissioned master painters such as F.R. Leach to adorn halls and churches with intricate designs. Despite having visited most of Cambridge’s thirty-odd museums and galleries, many visitors, including the author, were unaware of the David Parr House until recently. Located a mere ten-minute stroll from the main station, this unassuming terraced house on Gwydir Street is a true hidden gem. David Parr, a working-class artist employed by Leach, spent his days painting exquisite flowers, fruit, foliage, and ornate texts for Arts and Crafts designers across the country. By 1886, through diligent saving, he acquired this modest home, which he then painstakingly decorated in the very style of the grand interiors he crafted for others. A visit to this cosy, meticulously preserved house (tickets from £15) offers a rare glimpse into decades of hand-painted decoration, serving as a unique time capsule that illuminates not just artistic passion, but also the social history of Victorian working-class life.

The David Parr House is situated just off Mill Road, an area that has transformed into one of Cambridge’s most dynamic foodie meccas. Once a rough track leading to a windmill, Mill Road expanded significantly with the arrival of the railway, giving rise to its characteristic closely packed terraces. Today, it’s a vibrant, multicultural thoroughfare lined with independent eateries serving an eclectic array of cuisines, from flavourful noodles and traditional Greek souvlaki to Korean bibimbap, hearty Yemeni bamya stew, and exceptional plant-based tasting menus. Intriguingly, Parr’s house stands opposite an old redbrick brewery, which has now been repurposed into a stylish Hot Numbers Coffee shop, symbolizing the area’s ongoing evolution. The house recently launched a new F.R. Leach walking map, guiding enthusiasts to other significant sites. This trail leads to All Saints’ Church on Jesus Lane, renowned as "The Painted Church" for its stunning red, gold, and green Pre-Raphaelite decor. Further along, the Michaelhouse Cafe, housed in a converted church, even features Leach’s distinctive paintings in unexpected places, like the restrooms. Down the road, the magnificent Great St Mary’s, the official church of the University, offers a breathtaking 360-degree panoramic view of the city from its tower (adults £7.50), providing a perfect vantage point to appreciate Cambridge’s unique blend of ancient and modern.

After indulging in a cone of tangy blackcurrant ice-cream from the popular Jack’s Gelato, a short wander leads to the Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology (free admission). Here, the jewelled Trumpington cross of that young Anglo-Saxon woman is displayed, allowing visitors to appreciate its delicate craftsmanship and historical significance up close. The museum also showcases a fascinating gallery of Cambridge finds, spanning millennia from ancient Stone Age axes to specialized eel-catching prongs, illustrating the long and varied human occupation of the region. Directly across the road, the Museum of Zoology (also free) offers another captivating journey through natural history. Passing through displays of intricate sea stars and imposing rock pythons, one can eventually find Charles Darwin’s original box of neatly labelled beetles, a powerful testament to his early scientific curiosity and the meticulous observational skills that would underpin his revolutionary theories.

As the museums close for the day, the evening invites culinary delights and a unique natural spectacle. Supper at Little Petra, a Jordanian restaurant, offers a memorable experience with its crisp-and-creamy aubergine fatteh, beautifully topped with a jewel-like layer of nuts, fresh parsley, and vibrant pomegranate seeds, all perfectly complemented by traditional Bedouin tea, brewed with fresh mint and aromatic sage. Finally, heading towards the river as the sun begins its descent behind the historic colleges, the air fills with the dizzying spectacle of swifts whirling and screaming overhead, their acrobatics a prelude to the nocturnal world.

Iain Webb, a dedicated community conservation officer at the local wildlife trust, first conceived the idea of the bat safari 15 years ago. He regularly guides punts full of eager nature-lovers along the tranquil River Cam towards Grantchester on warm summer evenings (priced at £71 for two participants). Webb’s profound philosophy, "We need nature more than nature needs us," encapsulates the urgency and importance of such initiatives in fostering public appreciation and conservation efforts. The evening river journey unveils a rich, idyllic scene: a flash of brilliant blue announces a kingfisher darting past, while majestic herons fly overhead with huge, slow wingbeats, their silhouettes stark against the twilight sky. The riverbanks are ablaze with carpets of golden buttercups, providing a rich nectar source for nocturnal insects. As dusk deepens, the air becomes a stage for the river’s hidden inhabitants. Daubenton’s bats, with their characteristic silent flight, skim low over the water, expertly scooping up insects with their feet or tails. Meanwhile, the smaller pipistrelles swoop and dart between the dark, gnarled willow branches, flickering in and out of visibility like elusive creatures from some parallel dimension, their echolocation calls imperceptible to the human ear. A few stars begin to emerge, the darkening air remains full of the lingering birdsong of the day, and from a nest nestled among the trees, the distinctive calling of tawny owlets signals the full arrival of the night. This journey through Cambridge reveals a city that masterfully balances its illustrious past and dynamic present with a profound connection to the natural world, offering an enriching experience for every visitor.

Transport was provided by Greater Anglia. Find more info at Visit Cambridge.