‘It feels like Italy with the volume turned down’: readers’ favourite (smaller) city breaks in Europe

Ferrara: A Renaissance Gem Unveiled

Nestled in the heart of Emilia-Romagna, Ferrara captivated one traveller precisely because it embodies Italy with the volume turned down. This historic city, a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1995 for its remarkable Renaissance architecture and urban planning, offers a tranquil escape from the bustling tourist hubs. The city’s serene ambiance begins in the mornings, where quiet cobbled streets near the evocative Via delle Volte—a medieval street famed for its arches and suspended passages—fill with the enticing aroma of fresh pastries. This gentle pace allows for a deeper immersion into local life, contrasting sharply with the often-frenetic energy of larger Italian cities.

The true highlight for many is the opportunity to experience its world-class art without distraction. The iconic Palazzo dei Diamanti, a masterpiece of Renaissance architecture instantly recognisable by its diamond-pointed rustication, was almost empty during a recent visit. This rarity allowed ample space to savour its impressive collection of Renaissance art, particularly the works of the Ferrarese School, in profound solitude. This intimate encounter with masterpieces, often crowded in other galleries, is a privilege Ferrara consistently affords its visitors.

Evenings in Ferrara are equally enchanting, spent cycling leisurely past the city’s distinctive terracotta walls, which glow warmly under the setting sun. These gentle rides lead to tiny, family-run trattorias, where the culinary traditions of Emilia-Romagna come alive. A particular delight is the pumpkin cappellacci, a traditional pasta dish known for its delicate filling and rich flavour, showcasing the region’s agricultural bounty and culinary prowess. Ferrara is a city that actively encourages visitors to slow down, breathe deeply, and truly absorb its understated beauty and rich cultural heritage. Its quiet charm and accessible grandeur make it an exceptional destination for those seeking an authentic Italian experience.

Hanover: Germany’s Verdant and Vibrant Metropolis

Often overshadowed by its flashier counterparts like Munich or the dynamic energy of Berlin, Hanover in northern Germany unjustly carries a reputation for being boring. This perception is entirely undeserved, as the city boasts an impressive array of world-class attractions and a commitment to green living that few European cities can rival. Culturally, Hanover is home to institutions such as the Sprengel Museum, a modern art gallery renowned for its extensive collection of 20th and 21st-century art, including significant works by Pablo Picasso, Max Ernst, and Paul Klee. This museum alone provides a compelling reason to visit, offering a profound journey through modern artistic movements.

Beyond its artistic treasures, Hanover is celebrated for its natural beauty and meticulously maintained green spaces. The Herrenhausen Gardens stand as one of Europe’s best-preserved baroque gardens, a breathtaking complex that includes the magnificent Great Garden, a prime example of French Baroque landscaping, and the Berggarten, a botanical garden housing an impressive orchid collection. These gardens are not merely decorative but serve as vibrant cultural venues, hosting festivals and events throughout the year.

The city further distinguishes itself with its vast urban forest, the Eilenriede, spanning an astonishing 640 hectares (approximately 1,680 acres). This makes it nearly double the size of New York’s Central Park, functioning as a vital green lung and recreational haven for residents and visitors alike. Adding to its watery charm is a large artificial lake, the Maschsee, located just south of the city centre. Easily accessible with a standard bus ticket, or by hiring a boat, it offers a myriad of water-based activities and a popular spot for relaxation.

Hanover is a cyclist’s paradise, boasting over 600 miles of dedicated cycle paths that encourage exploration of the city and its picturesque surroundings. Its diverse neighbourhoods cater to all tastes, from the well-heeled Art Nouveau district of List, brimming with independent shops and elegant architecture, to the multicultural and bohemian Linden, known for its vibrant community and eclectic offerings. For a moment of tranquil repose, visitors can relax in a deck chair on the Ballhofplatz, enjoying tea and cake at the charming Teestübchen, observing the gentle rhythm of Hanoverian life. This fusion of cultural depth, historical grandeur, and unparalleled green infrastructure firmly establishes Hanover as a compelling and surprisingly engaging destination.

Loulé: The Algarve’s Heart of Heritage and Craft

Stepping inland from the sun-drenched beaches of the Algarve, just 10 miles from the regional capital Faro, lies Loulé, a city bursting with authentic Portuguese charm. This small city distinguishes itself through its profound commitment to preserving traditional crafts, a legacy deeply woven into its cultural fabric. This rich heritage is actively supported by Loulé Criativo, an innovative network of community-driven artisans dedicated to keeping alive and celebrating the unique identity of Loulé and the wider Algarve region.

Loulé Criativo encompasses several vibrant spaces where ancient skills are practiced and passed down. These include the House of Weaving (Casa da Empreita), where the intricate art of palm weaving flourishes; the Watchmakers (Oficina do Relojoeiro), where the delicate mechanics of timepieces are meticulously restored; and the Stringed Instrument Workshop (Oficina de Cordofones), where the melodic traditions of Portuguese music are crafted into being. These workshops are not static museums but living, breathing environments where visitors can interact directly with the artisans, witnessing their dedication and skill firsthand. This direct engagement ensures that the city’s invaluable heritage is not only preserved but also actively transmitted through generations, fostering a sense of continuity and pride.

The initiative plays a crucial role in maintaining Loulé’s cultural authenticity, offering a counterpoint to the more commercialised coastal resorts. It highlights the city’s Moorish influence, visible in its historic market building and the labyrinthine streets of its old town. Loulé provides a rich, immersive experience for those seeking to understand the soul of the Algarve beyond its postcard-perfect shores, connecting travellers with the enduring artistry and community spirit that define this enchanting Portuguese city.

Arras: A Northern French Treasure of History and Grandeur

Just a convenient 35-minute train ride from the bustling city of Lille, Arras emerges as a city steeped in history and adorned with architectural splendour, proudly boasting two UNESCO World Heritage sites. The magnificent belfry of the Hôtel de Ville, a symbol of civic pride and a testament to Flemish Baroque artistry, dominates the skyline, offering panoramic views over the city’s distinctive squares. Equally significant is the Vauban Citadel, a formidable 17th-century fortification designed by the military engineer Sébastien Le Prestre de Vauban, whose defensive works are celebrated across France.

A truly unique and immersive experience in Arras lies beneath its cobbled streets: the Boves. This extensive network of 10th-century tunnels, originally used as quarries, played pivotal roles throughout history, notably serving as shelters and logistical passages during both the First and Second World Wars. Exploring these subterranean passages offers a poignant journey through centuries of human endeavour and resilience, providing a tangible link to the city’s complex past.

Above ground, Arras delights with its two magnificent main squares, the Grand’Place and the Place des Héros, which are quintessential examples of Flemish Baroque architecture. Lined with elegant gabled houses, these squares are vibrant hubs, bustling with a wide variety of alfresco cafes, gourmet restaurants, and independent shops. They invite visitors to linger, enjoy a local craft beer or a traditional meal, and soak in the lively atmosphere. Arras is also renowned for hosting one of the biggest Christmas markets north of Paris, a festive spectacle celebrated for its astonishing range of international gourmet foods and artisanal crafts, drawing visitors from across the region. This combination of profound history, architectural beauty, and vibrant contemporary life makes Arras a compelling destination for those exploring northern France.

Malmö: Artistry, Architecture, and Culinary Quirks in Sweden’s South

Easily accessible via the Öresund Bridge from Copenhagen, Malmö presents itself as a dynamic and eminently walkable city that beautifully blends historical charm with modern innovation. At its cultural heart is the free Malmö Konsthall, a renowned arts centre that consistently features contemporary exhibitions. The square outside often becomes an impromptu stage for skateboard artistry, reflecting the city’s youthful energy and creative spirit.

Malmö’s commitment to sustainable urban development is strikingly evident in its Western Harbour district. This former industrial area has been transformed into a showcase of architectural gems, most notably the iconic Turning Torso skyscraper. Designed by Santiago Calatrava, this twisting residential tower stands as a symbol of modern Swedish design and engineering prowess. The district also offers a lively array of restaurants and inviting swimming piers, providing residents and visitors with opportunities to enjoy the waterfront.

For those with a sweet tooth or a penchant for tradition, Café Hollandia offers a delightful atmosphere and a taste of classic Swedish cakes, embodying the country’s cherished "fika" culture. Adjacent to this traditional haven lies a more unconventional attraction: the Disgusting Food Museum. This intriguing cultural experience challenges perceptions of taste by showcasing foods considered delicacies in some cultures but reviled in others. It’s an exhibition that sparks conversation and reflection on food, culture, and disgust, with a humorous sign even tallying the number of visitors who have, perhaps inevitably, thrown up (a gentle recommendation advises visiting Hollandia first!). Malmö’s blend of accessible art, groundbreaking architecture, and unique cultural commentary positions it as a fascinating and forward-thinking city in southern Sweden.

Cagliari: Sardinia’s Sun-Kissed Capital of Seafood and History

Should one manage to tear themselves away from Poetto Beach—unquestionably one of Europe’s prettiest city beaches, with its pristine white sands and clear turquoise waters—Cagliari, the vibrant capital of Sardinia, reveals a wealth of further delights. This ancient city, with layers of Phoenician, Punic, Roman, Pisan, and Aragonese history, offers much to explore.

The huge indoor produce market is a sensory riot, a kaleidoscope of glistening seafood, from freshly caught octopus to plump mussels, alongside mounds of local pecorino cheese and an array of sweet, nutty Sardinian treats like seadas and pardulas. It’s a true immersion into the island’s rich gastronomic culture. From the bustling port, the town centre elegantly ascends uphill, crowned by the formidable and elegant bulwark of Bastione di Saint Remy. This 19th-century panoramic terrace not only delineates the ancient Castello district but also serves up breathtaking rooftop and coastal views, stretching across the Gulf of Cagliari.

While a recent visitor regretfully missed the renowned National Archaeological Museum, home to significant Sardinian artefacts dating back to the Nuragic civilisation, this oversight merely provides the perfect excuse for a return trip. Cagliari’s affordable and exceptional seafood is a definite highlight, with local trattorias serving up the freshest catches. Trattoria Lillicu, in particular, comes highly recommended for its chargrilled bream and calamari, offering another tempting reason to hurry back to this enchanting island capital. Cagliari’s unique blend of stunning natural beauty, deep historical roots, and exquisite culinary experiences solidifies its status as a must-visit destination in the Mediterranean.

León: A Stained Glass Sanctuary in North-West Spain

In the historic city of León, nestled in the north-west of Spain, colours don’t just grab your attention—they steal your words. The awe-inspiring León Cathedral, a magnificent 13th-century Gothic masterpiece, consistently wrongfoots visitors with its sheer scale and breathtaking beauty. Often described as the "House of Light," the cathedral boasts over 1,800 square meters of stained glass windows, among the finest and most extensive collections in the world. For many, having witnessed impressive stained glass elsewhere, the experience here transcends expectation, reaching "another level" of ethereal wonder.

What truly enhances the visit is the way visitors engage with this sacred space. Unlike the hurried ticking-off of sights common in other tourist spots, here, everyone seems to be using the free audio guide, learning and savouring the experience. This quiet reverence allows for a deeper connection with the artistry and history embedded in every colourful pane.

In refreshing contrast to the cathedral’s soaring Gothic grandeur is the humble yet profoundly significant 9th-century Basilica of San Isidoro. This Romanesque marvel is one of Spain’s most important buildings from that period, housing the Royal Pantheon, often dubbed the "Sistine Chapel of Romanesque Art" due to its remarkably preserved 12th-century frescoes. León, surprisingly, remains somewhat under the British tourist radar, despite its pivotal role on the Camino de Santiago and its wealth of architectural and artistic treasures. This makes it an ideal destination for those seeking profound cultural experiences away from the mainstream.

Ålesund: Norway’s Art Nouveau Phoenix on the Fjord

Ålesund, an undeniable highlight on Norway’s already spectacular western coast, stands as a testament to resilience and architectural beauty. This small city, despite having been almost entirely devastated by a catastrophic fire in 1904, rose from its ashes to become a remarkable example of Art Nouveau (Jugendstil) architecture. Its whimsical turrets, intricate ornamentation, and colourful facades make it truly unique in Norway and indeed, Europe.

Accessing Ålesund can be an adventure in itself, with many travellers arriving via the breathtaking winding roads of the Trollstigen ("Troll’s Path"), a national tourist route renowned for its dramatic hairpin bends and stunning mountain vistas. The first sighting of Ålesund from the panoramic Aksla mountain viewpoint, reached by a rewarding 418-step climb, is unforgettable – a cluster of ornate buildings nestled between fjords and islands.

The historic centre, vibrant and bustling, is concentrated around the Brosundet Canal. Here, museums, charming cafes, exquisite restaurants, and independent shops thrive within beautifully renovated warehouses and exquisitely detailed Art Nouveau buildings. The city’s unique location offers a wealth of activities that blend urban charm with unparalleled natural beauty. Visitors can explore the tranquil waters of the canal by kayaking, experience the thrill of a rib boat ride through the fjords, or embark on a day trip to the stunning Geirangerfjord, a UNESCO World Heritage site celebrated for its dramatic waterfalls and towering cliffs. The dilemma of choosing between these incredible experiences often leads to the delightful decision to do them all, cementing Ålesund’s reputation as an unforgettable Norwegian gem.

Saint-Malo: The French City with a Bit of Everything

Spending five days in Saint-Malo, even in the height of August, reveals a city that truly has everything for the discerning traveller. This historic walled city, known as the "Corsair City," brims with tales of privateers and explorers like Jacques Cartier, offering a rich historical narrative that permeates its ancient ramparts and narrow streets. A walk along these formidable walls provides not only a glimpse into its past but also spectacular views of the Channel.

Saint-Malo boasts a variety of beaches, each offering a distinct character and shifting light throughout the day, from the expansive Grande Plage to the more secluded coves. A particular highlight is the modernist tidal pool, a unique open-air bathing area with a high diving platform, offering a refreshing swim regardless of the tide. The city exudes a palpable sense of pride, reflected in its meticulously maintained landmarks and the local art inspired by them, which make for wonderful and authentic souvenirs.

Beyond the sights, the city offers delightful culinary experiences. A memorable moment for one visitor was enjoying wonderful cider at La Passage, a charming establishment that embodies the relaxed Breton lifestyle. The unique microclimate of Saint-Malo is another significant draw; despite soaring temperatures elsewhere, the city’s temperature rarely exceeds 25°C in summer, providing a comfortable escape from intense heat. This blend of history, natural beauty, unique attractions, strong local identity, and agreeable climate makes Saint-Malo a truly multifaceted and appealing French destination.

Winning Tip: Leiden – A Watery Dutch Masterpiece

Leiden, at first glance, presents a rather uninviting façade. The walk from the train station can be somewhat grim, characterized by scruffy bars and vape shops. However, perseverance is richly rewarded as, quite suddenly, this watery Dutch gem reveals itself in all its understated glory. Canals, teeming with boats, shoot off from a central basin, each lined with grand brick mansions. These elegant structures, often tapering to ornate finials, are set against the backdrop of the sort of expansive, blue lowland skies that have inspired countless Dutch Masters.

Digging deeper into Leiden’s charming core reveals a labyrinth of narrow, traffic-free courtyards and squares, where cafes spill out light and chatter, creating an inviting and lively atmosphere. This timeless setting feels largely unchanged from the days when a young Rembrandt van Rijn trudged to the school that still stands here, just around the corner from his first tutor’s studio. Indeed, it’s plausible he would find much of the city’s architectural fabric and tranquil ambiance familiar if he were to walk back through its streets today. Leiden is also home to the Netherlands’ oldest university, founded in 1575, imbuing the city with a vibrant intellectual history and a youthful energy.

The city truly transforms during the Christmas season. An ice rink gracefully spreads across the main canal, becoming a focal point for festive activities. The air fills with the comforting aroma of warm wine, cloves, and freshly made crepes, hovering over the market stalls that line the canals. This evocative atmosphere, combined with its profound historical connections, stunning canals, and charming urban spaces, makes Leiden a captivating destination, proving that sometimes, the most rewarding discoveries are those that reveal themselves slowly, piece by beautiful piece.