England’s Sparkling Future: Taittinger’s Domaine Evremond Ignites Kent’s Wine Revolution.

The verdant landscape of Kent, traditionally famed for its hops and orchards, is undergoing a profound transformation, with rows of Pinot Meunier grapes now ripening to a rich purple on tall green vines, stretching elegantly towards the ancient flint-and-limestone tower of Chilham church. These specific vines, destined for premium English sparkling wine, represent a significant stake in the future of British viticulture, being 51% owned by the venerable French Champagne house, Taittinger. This bold cross-Channel investment underscores a seismic shift in the global wine industry, where England, particularly Kent, is rapidly emerging as a serious contender in the world of high-quality sparkling wine. "England is now the most exciting wine region," enthuses Hilary Sharp, sales executive and host at Domaine Evremond, as she guides visitors around the estate. Opened to the public with a state-of-the-art visitor centre last year, coinciding with the launch of its inaugural wine, Domaine Evremond is not merely a vineyard; it’s a statement of intent, a beacon of Anglo-French collaboration, and a testament to the dramatic evolution of English winemaking.

The ascent of English wine from novelty to international acclaim has been swift and remarkable. Drinks writer Henry Jeffreys, in his insightful 2023 book, Vines in a Cold Climate, chronicles this journey, describing it as a transition "from a joke to world-class in 30 years." This remarkable trajectory is fueled by a confluence of factors: a changing climate that increasingly mirrors historic Champagne conditions, meticulous viticultural practices, and substantial investment from both domestic and international players. Jeffreys vividly recounts the unseasonably cold, rainy, and muddy conditions of May 2017, when the first vines were planted at Domaine Evremond. Amidst this challenging weather, the anglophile Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger, then head of the family Champagne house, entertained guests with rambling anecdotes, injecting a dose of Gallic charm and historical context into the nascent venture.

The very name, Domaine Evremond, pays homage to Charles de Saint-Évremond, an exiled French aristocrat from the 17th century. A true bon vivant and a symbol of hedonistic Anglo-French cooperation, Saint-Évremond is credited with introducing champagne to England, captivating the court of the party-loving King Charles II, who notably made him governor of Duck Island in St James’s Park. This historical link elegantly bridges centuries of cultural exchange, positioning Domaine Evremond not just as a contemporary business venture, but as a continuation of a shared heritage of refined pleasure and cross-cultural appreciation for fine beverages. It underscores the deep roots of French influence in English gastronomic traditions, now returning in a sophisticated, reciprocal embrace.

The quality of Domaine Evremond’s offering is already commanding significant respect. Guests on the vineyard tour are treated to a quintessential English experience with a Gallic twist: a Land Rover parked by a windbreak of crab apple trees, its back opening to reveal a tray of glasses and a chilled bottle of Domaine Evremond’s Edition I. Sipping the creamy, citrussy fizz with a panoramic view of the meticulously tended vines is an experience that transcends mere tasting. Even for a non-expert, the wine’s elegance is palpable. Critically, its credentials are unassailable. Esteemed wine critic Jancis Robinson awarded it a "distinguished" 16/20, a highly commendable score. Henry Jeffreys, in his Substack Drinking Culture, lauded its "bright green apple fruit with a reassuring bass note of croissant and Marmite," notes indicative of classic sparkling wine characteristics, blending fresh acidity with complex autolytic notes derived from lees aging. The ultimate seal of approval came last summer when King Charles III chose this very wine to toast French President Emmanuel Macron at a state banquet, a powerful symbol of its prestige and diplomatic significance.

Behind the scenes, the operation is a blend of traditional expertise and cutting-edge innovation. Christelle Rinville, Taittinger’s vineyard director, regularly commutes via Le Shuttle from Champagne to supervise the vines at Domaine Evremond. Her enthusiasm for the "flinty Kentish subsoils" is infectious, highlighting the geological similarities that make this region so suitable for growing Champagne grape varieties like Pinot Meunier, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir. These chalk and flint deposits, remnants of ancient seabeds, provide excellent drainage and impart a distinct minerality to the grapes, crucial for producing complex sparkling wines. The infrastructure itself is a marvel of engineering: the 25-metre-deep cellars, capable of housing 1.5 million bottles, and the UK’s first subterranean winery, were excavated by one of the same companies responsible for digging the Channel Tunnel. This not only ensures optimal, consistent cool temperatures for maturation but also demonstrates the scale of commitment and investment in establishing a world-class wine facility.

The visitor experience at Domaine Evremond is designed to be both informative and luxurious. An elegant umbrella-shaded terrace, nestled against chalk-cliff walls, offers long rustic tables adorned with wildflowers. Here, visitors can sample the wine at £12.50 a glass or £55 a bottle, available Wednesday to Sunday. Year-round tours and tastings delve deeper into the winemaking process and the vineyard’s story. Sitting under blue skies, surrounded by banks of yarrow, knapweed, vetch, and wild carrot, scorched by what feels like a relentless sun, one might indeed muse, "it doesn’t feel very English." This observation points to a larger, more critical narrative: Europe is currently the world’s fastest-warming continent, and this climatic shift is directly influencing agricultural landscapes. The unirrigated vines at Domaine Evremond, unlike many other crops struggling with drought, appear to be thriving, indicative of their adaptation and the suitability of the terroir. The early harvest, up to three weeks ahead of schedule, is a tangible sign of these changing conditions. Jeffreys’ observation that "Currently the climate in south-east England is similar to that of Champagne in the 1970s" is pivotal. While optimal latitudes for wine production are generally considered to be between 30 and 50 degrees, with Champagne at the northerly extreme of this range, Chilham, at 51 degrees north, is defying traditional wisdom, proving that climate change is literally redrawing the wine map.

The broader local context enriches the Domaine Evremond experience. A pleasant half-hour walk through fields connects the vineyard to the charming village of Chilham, with its welcoming cafes, traditional pubs, and a railway station where only the front four carriages fit the quaint, short platform. Along the path, bearded, butter-yellow cobs of sweetcorn burst from pale green husks, a reminder of the region’s agricultural bounty. Looping back to Chilham through the ancient Perry Wood, one can glimpse an old oasthouse beyond the vines, framed by branches laden with rosy Gala apples. This land was acquired in 2015 from the Gaskain family, long-standing fruit growers. Mark Gaskain, their managing director, now oversees the day-to-day operations of the vineyards while simultaneously managing the production of some 70 million apples annually. This continuity of agricultural stewardship, blending traditional fruit farming with modern viticulture, speaks to the symbiotic relationship between the new wine industry and Kent’s established rural economy. Further on, plum orchards droop under the weight of their purple fruit, with crates stacked ready for harvest. The hedgerows are a tapestry of nature’s abundance: sprawling hops and honey-scented wild clematis tangle with reddening rosehips and sweet, wine-dark blackberries. Sparrows feast on early-ripened hawthorn under the majestic arching beech and sweet chestnut trees, ancient ivy-wreathed hedge maples, and squirrel-haunted hazels. Huge clumps of mistletoe cling to towering poplars, completing a picturesque scene of quintessential English countryside in late summer.

Back in Chilham village, cottage gardens burst with late summer roses, fragrant lavender, and aromatic catnip. Wisteria-clad walls host rows of mud-built house martin nests, where late fledglings still cheep under half-timbered eaves, while gathering swallows twitter on overhead wires, preparing for migration. Deputy church warden Lynda Twaite provides a tour of the flint-walled St Mary’s church, pointing out ancient memorials and a battered old school table bearing 18th-century children’s graffiti, connecting visitors to centuries of local history. The historic pilgrim route to Canterbury, a path trodden for centuries, runs through the churchyard, shadowed by lime and yew trees. Across the village square, the creeper-covered Jacobean Chilham Castle, with gardens famously landscaped by Capability Brown, now boasts its own new vineyard, further solidifying the region’s burgeoning wine identity.

Before settling in for the night at the Woolpack Inn, an evening stroll by the tranquil River Stour offers a serene view of the weatherboarded Chilham Mill, framed by vibrant willowherb and ripe elderberries. The river sparkles in the fading sun, with turquoise damselflies hovering delicately among loosestrife and waterlilies, a scene of idyllic English beauty. The Woolpack Inn itself, following a multimillion-pound renovation a couple of years ago, seamlessly blends historic charm with contemporary comfort. Its garden, surprisingly, exudes a Mediterranean feel, with lush pink hydrangeas, striking agapanthus, and a remarkable 600-year-old olive tree, subtly hinting at the warmer climes that are influencing the region. Inside, the brick-walled bar features a curving window seat, weathered oak beams, and is tastefully adorned with prints, plants, and quirky lighting. Upstairs, suites and bedrooms are thoughtfully named after Kentish vineyards, while the larger rooms in Rose Cottage, located across the lane, offer the added luxury of private gardens.

Dining at the Woolpack is an experience in itself. Seated in the leafy shade, one can indulge in a "Woolly cheeseboard," presented on a rustic slice of tree trunk. More an artful installation than a mere meal, it features applewood-smoked and creamy goat cheeses meticulously arranged among crackers, olives, nuts, dried fruit, chutneys, and tangy homemade pickles. To accompany this feast, options range from pints of Shepherd Neame’s toffee-appley Master Brew, brewed just down the road in Faversham, to glasses of the local cuvée, available at cellar door prices, perfectly rounding off a day steeped in Kent’s evolving wine culture.

Domaine Evremond’s vision extends beyond its own estate. It played a pivotal role in founding the "Wine Garden of England," a collaborative initiative uniting several leading Kent vineyards. This collective effort aims to promote the region as a premier wine tourism destination, ensuring consistent quality and a unified visitor experience. August 2026 saw the launch of another significant tourism initiative, the "Kentish Wine Way," specifically designed to encourage visitors to explore "England’s largest and most awarded wine region." This strategic push highlights Kent’s growing dominance in the UK wine scene, boasting 120 commercially active vineyards and accounting for over 25% of Britain’s total vine area. Last year’s harvest alone yielded more than five million bottles, a staggering figure that underscores the industry’s rapid expansion and commercial success. The journey back by train offers a final, poignant image: after hours of traversing wooded hills and burdened orchards, several vineyards roll past, their rows glowing in the evening sunlight, a luminous testament to Kent’s flourishing viticultural revolution.

Five More Kent Vineyards to Visit:

Balfour Winery
Balfour Winery, a jewel in Kent’s crown, gained international recognition by producing the first English wine to win both a gold medal and a trophy at the prestigious International Wine Challenge for its 2004 Brut Rosé. This landmark achievement cemented English wine’s place on the global stage. Visitors can pick up a map at the Cellar Door and freely explore the extensive vineyards, picturesque orchards, vibrant wildflower meadows, and ancient oakwoods. For a more structured experience, a range of bookable tours and tastings are available, starting from £15 per person for a self-tutored tasting. Emphasizing accessibility, Balfour offers a complimentary shuttle bus service from Marden train station (just 45 minutes from London or Canterbury) from Friday to Sunday, and car-free visitors are rewarded with a 20% discount on year-round tours and tastings, making it an ideal destination for sustainable tourism.

Biddenden Vineyards
Nestled five miles from the iconic Sissinghurst Castle Garden, Biddenden Vineyards holds the distinction of being the oldest commercial vineyard in Kent. Its origin story, as recounted by drinks journalist Henry Jeffreys, is a charming tale of serendipity: the Barnes family, traditional apple growers, ventured into viticulture in 1969 after Joyce Barnes was inspired by a segment on English viticulture on BBC Radio 4’s Woman’s Hour. Today, the vineyard continues its legacy, offering a diverse range of gourmet apple juices and ciders alongside its acclaimed wines. Biddenden provides various visitor experiences, with most running from May to September (starting at £15 for a self-guided tour and tasting flight). This year, a new behind-the-scenes production tour and tasting has been introduced for the colder months (£30), ensuring year-round engagement for wine enthusiasts.

Chapel Down
Near Tenterden, Chapel Down stands as England’s largest wine producer, a powerhouse with bottles gracing the shelves of numerous supermarkets nationwide. Its extensive operations draw fruit from over 700 acres of vineyards spread across the south-east of England, showcasing the scale and ambition of the English wine industry. Easily accessible with a half-hour taxi ride from Ashford International station, Chapel Down offers a variety of tours and tastings, including a sophisticated cheese and wine pairing experience (£70). This vineyard is a testament to how English wine has moved from niche to mainstream, demonstrating significant commercial prowess and market penetration.

Simpsons’ Wine Estate
Ruth and Charles Simpson, whose winemaking journey began in Languedoc in 2002, brought their expertise to Kent in 2012, declaring it "one of the most dynamic wine-producing regions of the world." Their estate offers uniquely engaging bookable sessions, including tastings (from £25) conducted on a glass-walled mezzanine floor within the winery. Guests can relax on plush velvet sofas while sampling their still and sparkling wines, with the playful option of descending via a helter-skelter slide after their tasting – a memorable touch that combines sophistication with fun. Simpsons’ embodies the innovative and experiential spirit now defining English wine tourism.

Westwell
Perched on the edge of the scenic Kent Downs, Westwell vineyard is conveniently located close to Charing station and a short walk from the historic Pilgrims’ Way. This vineyard is celebrated for its experimental approaches to winemaking, embracing techniques such as wild yeasts, small-scale production, and the creation of cloudy, naturally sparkling Pet Nats. Beyond its regular tours, Westwell fosters a vibrant community atmosphere with popular Friday pizza nights and seasonal supper clubs, blending gastronomy with viticulture. A tour and tasting experience is priced at £28, offering an intimate glimpse into a vineyard pushing the boundaries of English winemaking.