‘A scramble down to a gorgeous expanse of beach’: readers’ favourite unsung places in Wales

Glamorgan Heritage Coast: A Jurassic Journey
P Thomas, a fervent admirer of the less-frequented stretches of the Glamorgan Heritage Coastline, reveals a geological and historical treasure trove near Cardiff. Places like Wick, Monknash, and Nash Point are not merely picturesque beaches but portals to an ancient world. The Glamorgan Heritage Coast, a 14-mile designated area stretching from Ogmore-by-Sea to Aberthaw, is celebrated for its spectacular cliffs, secluded coves, and rich biodiversity. Its dramatic character is sculpted by layers of limestone and shale, revealing geological formations that date back to the Triassic and Jurassic periods, approximately 200 million years ago.

Thomas’s preferred route involves a rewarding, if challenging, scenic hike across verdant fields, culminating in a precipitous scramble down the Cwm Bach ladder. This effort is handsomely repaid by access to a pristine expanse of rocky beach. Here, the true marvel lies in the colossal, stepped cliffs, which are veritable museums of natural history, absolutely teeming with fossils. Among the most striking finds are enormous ammonites, coiled cephalopods that once thrived in the warm, shallow seas that covered this region millions of years ago. These fossils, along with belemnites (ancient squid-like creatures) and occasionally even fragments of marine reptiles, offer invaluable insights into the prehistoric marine ecosystems of Wales. Responsible fossil hunting, which encourages observation and photography over removal, is crucial to preserving these natural wonders for future generations. The dramatic cliff faces, shaped by millennia of erosion, are a testament to the Earth’s dynamic processes, making the area a significant site for geologists and palaeontologists alike.

After a day of coastal exploration and discovery, the nearby Plough & Harrow in Monknash offers a delightful step back in time. This ancient pub, with roots stretching back centuries, retains an ambiance that feels more like a welcoming private home than a commercial establishment. The experience of being served traditional Welsh ale in what feels akin to someone’s living room is a testament to its enduring charm and status as a genuine community hub, providing a warm contrast to the rugged outdoors. The proximity of this wild, fossil-rich coastline to the bustling capital city of Cardiff further enhances its appeal, offering an easily accessible escape into nature and history.

Pembrokeshire’s Emerald Oasis: The Witches’ Cauldron
Anna shares a tip for a truly magical swimming spot in Pembrokeshire: the Witches’ Cauldron (Pwll-y-Wrach) near Moylegrove. This enchanting natural wonder is a collapsed sea cave, a geological phenomenon where the roof of a cave has given way, creating a spectacular open-air grotto. During the height of summer, particularly on the hottest days, the water within glows a mesmerising emerald green, illuminated by sunlight filtering through the opening. Visitors can swim directly from this mystical cave out to the open sea, an exhilarating experience.

Accessing the Witches’ Cauldron is an adventure in itself. A scramble down from the Pembrokeshire Coast Path, a designated National Trail stretching 186 miles, provides a challenging but rewarding approach for walkers. Alternatively, the more adventurous can explore it by sea kayak, navigating through natural tunnels from the sea, an experience that offers a unique perspective of the rugged coastline. Pembrokeshire is renowned for its sea kayaking opportunities, with numerous guided tours available for those new to the sport. However, visitors are advised to check local accessibility, as the site is occasionally closed to protect the resident grey seal population. Pembrokeshire is a vital breeding ground for these magnificent marine mammals, and conservation efforts are paramount to ensure their undisturbed welfare, highlighting the delicate balance between tourism and environmental protection in this stunning corner of Wales.

Castell y Bere: A Glimpse into Native Welsh Royalty
Ian Statham champions Castell y Bere as Eryri’s (Snowdonia’s) most enchanting castle, urging visitors to look beyond the more famous Anglo-Saxon fortresses like Conwy, Caernarfon, and Harlech. Located near Tywyn in the south of Gwynedd, Castell y Bere holds a profound historical significance as the last great stronghold built by a native Welsh prince. Erected by Llywelyn ap Iorwerth, known as Llywelyn the Great, in the 13th century, this castle was a symbol of Welsh independence and military prowess. Perched defiantly on a windswept crag, it commands breathtaking views over flat, fertile estuarine pastures, hinting at the vast herds of cattle that once sustained Llywelyn’s people.

Unlike the imposing, concentric designs of Edward I’s castles, Castell y Bere reflects a distinctly Welsh architectural style, designed for a different form of warfare and a different political landscape. Its ruins, though less complete than its English counterparts, exude an atmosphere of pervasive, almost crushing, history. Standing amidst the remnants of its towers and walls, one can almost hear the echoes of medieval Welsh life and the fierce struggles for sovereignty against the English crown. Archaeological excavations at the site have revealed fascinating details about its construction and occupation. Statham’s advice to "tread lightly and don’t stay too long, lest its magic be ruined for others" underscores the importance of respectful tourism, allowing the site’s unique spiritual and historical resonance to remain intact for all who seek it out. Cadw, the Welsh government’s historic environment service, plays a crucial role in conserving this and other significant Welsh heritage sites.

Ceredigion’s Submerged Forest: A Window to the Past
Michael Gale uncovers a truly ancient wonder in Ceredigion: the submerged forest of tree stumps between Ynyslas and Borth. This incredible natural phenomenon, part of the wider Cors Fochno (Borth Bog) area, consists of the fossilised remains of an ancient woodland. These stumps of oak, pine, birch, willow, and hazel are up to 5,000 years old, preserved in layers of peat beneath the shifting sands. Their exposure is dependent on tidal conditions, making them a captivating sight during low tides, revealing a landscape that existed during the Neolithic and Bronze Ages.

The formation of this submerged forest is a result of dramatic environmental changes following the last Ice Age. As glaciers retreated, sea levels rose, gradually inundating ancient coastal forests. The peat, formed from decaying plant matter in waterlogged conditions, created an anaerobic environment that prevented the timber from rotting, preserving it for millennia. Touching these ancient stumps allows one to directly connect with a world thousands of years removed, imagining the lives of early human inhabitants of Wales who once hunted and gathered in these now-submerged woods. The site is also intimately linked to Welsh folklore, particularly the legend of Cantre’r Gwaelod, a mythical sunken kingdom often referred to as the "Welsh Atlantis," further adding to its mystique. As a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI), its protection is vital for scientific research and for preserving this unique natural heritage.

Bangor and Caernarfon: North Wales’s Historic Heartbeat
Flora’s contribution offers a vibrant snapshot of North Wales, focusing on the cultural and historical delights of Bangor and Caernarfon. For her, returning to Gwynedd, where her father grew up, evokes a profound sense of homecoming. The journey itself is part of the experience, with the marvellous North Wales mainline train offering scenic vistas and convenient access. In Bangor, a bustling university city with a rich history, Jones’ Pizza is highlighted as a beloved local institution, known for its good value and its role as a pillar of community and student life. Its unpretentious charm makes it a perfect spot to refuel after travel.

A scenic walk along the Menai Strait provides a captivating journey through engineering history. Here, visitors can marvel at two iconic bridges: Thomas Telford’s Menai Suspension Bridge, completed in 1826, an engineering marvel of the Industrial Revolution that dramatically improved communication between Anglesey and mainland Wales; and Robert Stephenson’s Britannia Bridge, originally a tubular railway bridge, later rebuilt after a fire. These bridges are not just functional crossings but powerful symbols of human ingenuity and connection. Further along, Caernarfon, a UNESCO World Heritage site, invites exploration. Its imposing medieval castle, built by Edward I of England, dominates the town, its walls snaking around the historic centre. The castle, a masterpiece of 13th-century military architecture, was designed to project English power and is renowned for its polygonal towers and unique banded masonry. Beyond the castle, Caernarfon’s vibrant monthly Saturday craft fair and unique shops, like the dried flower emporium Herbariwm, showcase the town’s thriving local culture and artistic spirit.

Coastal Cycling to Llandudno: A North Wales Adventure
Esther, a self-proclaimed non-serious cyclist, extols the virtues of the 18-mile Prestatyn to Llandudno route, deeming it a brilliant entry-level cycle ride. This section of the National Cycle Network (specifically parts of Routes 5 and 80) is almost entirely off-road, hugging the stunning North Wales coastline. This design allows cyclists to immerse themselves in the panoramic views without the stress of traffic or complex navigation. The route traverses diverse landscapes, from sandy beaches and dunes to charming promenades, offering ample opportunities to pause, refuel, and admire the ever-changing vistas of the Irish Sea.

The journey culminates in Llandudno, Wales’s largest Victorian seaside resort, famous for its elegant pier and the Great Orme headland. While the final stretch into Llandudno may present a steep challenge, the reward is magnificent views over the bay and a well-deserved supper from Barnacles, a local chippy praised for its quality and inclusive dedicated vegan menu, a nod to evolving culinary tastes. The convenience of this route is further enhanced by the option to cycle back or transport bikes on the train, offering flexibility for all abilities. This cycle path promotes not only physical well-being but also sustainable tourism, allowing visitors to connect with the natural beauty of the Welsh coast in an environmentally friendly way.

Coed y Brenin’s Hidden Oasis: The Forest Garden
Alina Congreve introduces a tranquil counterpoint to the adrenaline-fueled reputation of Coed y Brenin, the UK’s first purpose-built mountain biking centre, located a few miles north of Dolgellau. While thousands flock to its world-class trails, few pause at the quietly enchanting Forest Garden. This arboretum, tucked away from the main biking routes, offers a slower, more contemplative experience of the forest. After falling into disrepair in the early 2000s, the Forest Garden has been meticulously restored, regaining its former glory as a haven of botanical diversity.

Here, giant Redwoods, the tallest tree species in the world, tower majestically, rising above moss-covered boulders and a lively stream that swells into dramatic cascades after rainfall. Douglas firs, planted in the 1920s as part of experimental forestry, stand alongside larch, spruce, and pine trees sourced from various wetter corners of the globe. This diverse collection of trees not only provides a stunning visual spectacle but also supports a rich tapestry of biodiversity, including various bird species, insects, and fungi. A significant feature of the Forest Garden is that part of its circular trail is all-access, making this serene woodland retreat open and enjoyable for everyone, regardless of mobility. With free entry, it offers an accessible escape into nature, providing a peaceful contrast to the rugged mountains of Eryri, with glimpses of the iconic Cadair Idris in the distance.

Ynys Môn’s Ancient Echoes: Tŷ Mawr Hut Circles
Tatiana Campo reveals an under-the-radar treasure on Ynys Môn (Anglesey): the Tŷ Mawr Hut Circles on the slopes of Holyhead Mountain. More than just a fascinating archaeological site, this beautifully preserved Iron Age settlement offers a tangible glimpse into life over two millennia ago. The remains of numerous circular stone huts provide a vivid picture of ancient communities, their farming practices, and their daily routines. The site’s location on Holyhead Mountain, the highest point on Anglesey, offers sweeping panoramic views across the island and out to the Irish Sea, making it an unbeatable picnic spot.

Anglesey itself is an island steeped in history, known as the ancient stronghold of the Druids and later a significant Roman outpost. The Tŷ Mawr Hut Circles represent a vital part of this rich heritage. Visiting in late summer is particularly magical, when the hillside explodes with vibrant purple heather, adding a splash of colour to the wild, untouched landscape. From here, a walk towards the dramatic South Stack Lighthouse is a must. Perched precariously on a small island connected by a bridge and 400 steps, the lighthouse has guided ships since 1809. The cliffs around South Stack are a haven for marine wildlife, and with luck, visitors might spot grey seals bobbing in the waters below or puffins, guillemots, and razorbills nesting on the ledges, particularly during breeding season. The area is an RSPB reserve, underlining its importance for bird conservation. This site encapsulates the raw beauty, deep history, and abundant wildlife that define Ynys Môn.

Artistic Legacies: Tenby and Cardiff’s Cultural Gems
Adrian Brodkin points to artistic inspiration found in two distinct Welsh locations: Tenby and Cardiff. In Pembrokeshire, the tiny but fascinating Tenby Museum and Art Gallery, housed in a Grade II-listed building, stands as Wales’s oldest independent museum, established in 1878. Its diverse collections span geology, local history, and culture, offering a comprehensive insight into the region. Crucially, it is home to several intriguing works by the celebrated sibling artists, Gwen and Augustus John, who spent their childhoods in this picturesque coastal town. Their early experiences in Tenby undoubtedly shaped their unique artistic visions.

Tenby, with its colourful Georgian and Victorian houses, medieval town walls, and bustling harbour, has long been a magnet for artists. The museum acts as a vital repository of this artistic legacy. Building on this local insight, Brodkin recommends a journey to Cardiff, where the National Museum Cardiff, a premier national institution, is currently hosting a major retrospective of Gwen John’s work, titled "Strange Beauties," running until 28 June. Gwen John, an enigmatic figure in early 20th-century art, is celebrated for her intimate portraits and subtle landscapes, often depicting solitary female figures. This exhibition provides a rare opportunity to delve deeper into the life and work of an artist whose quiet power and distinctive style continue to influence and captivate, showcasing her importance within Welsh and international art history. The museum also houses extensive collections of Welsh art, natural history, and archaeology, making it a cornerstone of Welsh cultural life.

Welsh Cemeteries: Silent Narrators of History and Culture
Emma Halstead offers a poignant and reflective recommendation: exploring the atmospheric Welsh cemeteries. She argues that Welsh graveyards are uniquely special, serving as profound historical documents and cultural markers. From the austere chapel burial grounds, often adorned with glass-domed immortelles (floral tributes), to remote churchyards featuring Welsh-language inscriptions deeply cut into local slate, each site tells a story of community, resilience, and faith. These cemeteries offer a direct connection to Welsh linguistic heritage and the distinct spiritual traditions that have shaped the nation.

Halstead highlights two recent discoveries that exemplify this richness. The Cefn Golau Cholera Cemetery, isolated on a windswept hill high above Tredegar, just south of the Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons) National Park, stands as a stark reminder of the devastating cholera epidemics that swept through industrial Wales in the 19th century. Its remote location was chosen out of fear of contagion, creating a haunting and incredibly atmospheric site that speaks volumes about the social and medical challenges of the era. Tredegar itself has a rich industrial heritage, and the cemetery offers a sobering counterpoint to tales of coal and iron. The second is the ancient, circular-walled churchyard of St Baglan’s, Llanfaglan, situated in a field overlooking the mouth of the Menai Strait, west of Caernarfon. Circular churchyards are a unique feature of the Welsh landscape, often suggesting pre-Christian origins and sacred sites. St Baglan’s, a church cared for by the Friends of Friendless Churches, is described as a "truly peaceful and magical place," offering a sense of profound tranquility and a deep connection to Wales’s spiritual past. These silent landscapes provide a unique lens through which to understand Welsh history, identity, and the enduring power of place.