Cycling in the wild heart of the Netherlands: an autumnal break in the Veluwe

This remarkable protected area, one of the largest continuous nature reserves in the Netherlands, is meticulously crisscrossed by over 40 kilometres (25 miles) of well-maintained cycling paths. To facilitate an immersive and sustainable exploration, the park offers an unparalleled amenity: approximately 2,000 free-to-use white bicycles, strategically placed at its entrances and key points, inviting visitors to effortlessly navigate its ever-changing scenery. These iconic ‘white bikes’ symbolize the park’s commitment to accessibility and eco-friendly tourism, allowing everyone to experience the Veluwe’s natural wonders at their own pace.

For years, local friends have extolled the virtues of this park and the wider Veluwe region – a vast, forest-rich ridge of hills and diverse landscapes stretching an impressive 37 miles from north to south. Having frequently visited the Netherlands, the opportunity finally arose to delve into this acclaimed natural haven. My multi-day itinerary was crafted to explore its depths on foot and on two wheels, seamlessly blending vigorous outdoor activity with a cultural immersion into some of its historic towns and renowned museums, proving that the Netherlands offers far more than its iconic canals and tulip fields.

My expedition commenced at Natuurcentrum De Ginkel, a charming and informative nature and visitor centre located near the town of Ede, just outside Arnhem. Here, I was greeted by Hanna Pol, a knowledgeable nature guide whose quiet passion for the region immediately set the tone. As we ventured into the forest, Pol began to articulate the profound biodiversity that defines the Veluwe. "The Veluwe is exceptionally biodiverse," she remarked softly, our footsteps crunching on a carpet of fallen leaves as we passed through a vibrant tapestry of verdant oak, stately pine, and graceful birch trees. On one side of our path, trees displayed the rich, tawny hues of autumn, while the other burst with wildflowers – bright yellow sunflowers and vivid red poppies adding splashes of intense colour. Pol listed the impressive array of wildlife that calls this region home: roe deer, five distinct species of woodpecker, industrious beavers, elusive wild boar, and, most notably, wolves. The return of wolves to the Netherlands in 2015 after a 150-year absence has been a contentious topic, highlighting the complex balance between conservation success and the concerns of local livestock farmers. As we continued our tranquil walk, we were fortunate to spot a small brown frog perched on a mossy log, a woodpecker rhythmically dancing up a tree trunk, and the distant, graceful outlines of two rust-red deer grazing amidst the undergrowth.

Our journey led us to a discreet wildlife observation area, a thoughtfully designed, enclosed building featuring curved panoramic windows and theatre-style wooden seating, providing an unobtrusive vantage point. "The deer pass this way every night to feed," Pol explained, her voice hushed, indicating the open expanse before us. "Once, we even witnessed a truly dramatic fight break out between two stags." She shared her personal sightings of wolves, recounting the thrill of seeing these apex predators, whose reintroduction has sparked considerable debate across the country. While we didn’t encounter the elusive wolves during our visit, a solitary, bright white buzzard perched regally on a distant tree, its sharp gaze surveying the landscape. Inside the observation post, a fascinating, albeit somber, collection of skeletal remains offered further insight into the Veluwe’s fauna, including majestic antlers, various skulls, the formidable teeth of a wild boar, and the delicate foot of a deer, each a silent testament to the circle of life in this wild expanse.

That evening, respite was found in a stylish and sleek cabin at Buitenplaats Petersburg, an exquisite retreat situated on the very edge of the national park. The cabin, designed with floor-to-ceiling windows, offered uninterrupted, immersive views of the surrounding forest, blurring the lines between indoor comfort and outdoor wilderness. This peaceful haven of modern lodges, subtly adorned with fairy lights strung through the woods, also boasted an enchanting Italian restaurant, Il Lupo, with a delightful outdoor terrace, perfect for enjoying a meal under the starlit sky.

Beyond its unspoilt natural wonders, the Veluwe region offers a rich tapestry of cultural attractions that complement its ecological diversity. My next stop was Paleis Het Loo, a magnificent 17th-century royal palace located in Apeldoorn. Once the cherished summer residence and hunting lodge of King William III of Orange and his wife, Queen Mary II Stuart – figures pivotal in both Dutch and British history, notably the Glorious Revolution – the palace is an impressive architectural marvel. Its interior features a succession of ornate rooms, meticulously restored to their historical grandeur, including a grand staircase adorned with the second-largest mural in the Netherlands. Outside, the formal symmetrical gardens, a masterpiece of Dutch Baroque design, mirror the palace’s opulence. An engaging underground museum further enriches the experience, offering a comprehensive narrative of the Dutch royal family’s history and their enduring connection to this estate.

For the night, my accommodation was Hotel de Echoput, a modern, family-run hotel nestled deep within the surrounding forest. Its acclaimed Grand Bistro Echo proved to be a culinary highlight, with a menu deeply rooted in the philosophy of showcasing local, seasonal ingredients, often foraged from the Veluwe itself. I savoured a delightful dish of fried wild mushrooms, elevated by a creamy Dordogne sauce, followed by an unexpectedly delicious vegan cheesecake infused with basil and white chocolate, a testament to the region’s burgeoning gastronomic scene.

The following morning, after an invigorating walk through the hushed woods, where I encountered barely another soul, I journeyed to the historic Hanseatic city of Harderwijk. Situated on the picturesque shores of Wolderwijd lake, Harderwijk, meaning "hiding place for shepherds," was once a thriving port and member of the powerful Hanseatic League, a medieval commercial and defensive confederation of merchant guilds and market towns in Central and Northern Europe. Its prosperity was tied to trade on the Zuiderzee, the former inland sea. With local guide Marianne van Limbeek, I wandered through the city’s narrow, cobblestone streets, admired sections of its medieval city walls, and explored the stately Old Town Hall, each corner revealing layers of history. Our exploration took an unexpected, charming turn when we stumbled upon Hendrik Kaper, a local street organist wearing a traditional flat cap, who treated us to a spirited rendition of Queen’s "Bohemian Rhapsody" on his portable wooden organ, a delightful moment of spontaneous local culture.

Yet, it was consistently within the boundaries of Hoge Veluwe National Park that I discovered the most profound sense of serenity and connection to nature. One memorable day, a small adder, its dark zigzag stripe a stark contrast against the forest floor, momentarily halted my progress, a thrilling reminder of the wildness that persists here. For those seeking true solitude and an unhurried communion with nature, visiting outside peak times, as I did, can reward you with long stretches of trails entirely to yourself.

Nestled within the very heart of the park lies the renowned Kröller-Müller Museum, a revered national art institution and sprawling sculpture garden. This cultural gem was founded by the visionary art collector Helene Kröller-Müller, who, alongside her shipping magnate husband Anton Kröller, amassed vast tracts of land in the Veluwe, which they later generously donated to the state, forming the core of the national park. My visit was perfectly timed, as all 88 of the museum’s exceptional Vincent van Gogh paintings were on display together for the first time since 1984, offering a rare and profound insight into the artist’s prolific oeuvre (the exhibition ran until January 3rd). The museum houses the second-largest Van Gogh collection in the world, a testament to Helene’s discerning eye and passion. The adjacent sculpture park, one of the largest in Europe, is a unique integration of art and nature. As I strolled across open grassy fields and ventured into the surrounding forest, I continually stumbled upon diverse artworks – approximately 200 pieces by celebrated artists like Auguste Rodin, Henry Moore, and Barbara Hepworth, thoughtfully dotted across the landscape, inviting quiet contemplation. A short cycle away stood Jachthuis Sint Hubertus, the former country residence of the Kröller-Müller family. This architectural masterpiece, designed by Hendrik Petrus Berlage, evokes the grandeur of a Scottish castle with distinct Art Nouveau influences. Its watchtower, soaring more than 30 metres tall, was reportedly Helene’s favourite spot for afternoon tea, offering panoramic views. The estate is encircled by a serene lake, where an energetic school of carp frequently breach the surface, adding a lively touch to the tranquil scene.

Before the sky turned a moody grey and the threat of imminent rain loomed, I paused at Restaurant De Hoge Veluwe at Park Paviljoen for an early pasta dinner on its inviting terrace, soaking in the last moments of daylight. Fortunately, it was only a convenient 15-minute cycle to Otterlo, a picturesque village charmingly adorned with clusters of fairy lights and colourful bunting decorating its traditional red brick houses. Here, I found my final accommodation at Vakantieoord Het Lorkenbos, a delightful holiday park enveloped by a canopy of trees. My bungalow proved to be utterly charming, and as I lit a candle, feeling utterly enveloped in a twinkling, winter-wonderland atmosphere, I looked up the Dutch word for cosy. It was gezellig – a term that perfectly encapsulated the profound sense of well-being and contentment I felt after my enriching and restorative break in this wild, yet deeply welcoming, part of the Netherlands.

The trip was arranged by Visit Veluwe. Entrance to Hoge Veluwe National Park is €13.85 per adult. Cabins at Buitenplaats Petersburg start from €110. Camping at Het Lorkenbos is available from €23 a night, with bungalows from €320 for two nights. Double rooms at De Echoput are priced from €169. Omio provided train travel; Eurostar operates services from London to Amsterdam.