Embarking on the Train des Merveilles: A Journey from Nice’s Glittering Coast to the Rugged Alpes-Azur Mountains.

At precisely nine-thirty on a radiant Tuesday morning, the historic platforms of Nice-Ville station hum with a vibrant symphony of urban life and eager anticipation. Amidst the hurried footsteps of office workers and the jovial chatter of backpackers, a diverse tapestry of travelers converges. While many board trains destined for the glamorous east — the principality of Monaco and the sun-kissed shores of Italy — or the chic west, towards Antibes and Cannes, a different kind of adventure beckons. My husband and I, seeking a profound contrast to the dazzling Mediterranean coastline, embark upon a journey aboard the fabled Train des Merveilles (Train of Wonders), a railway marvel that promises to transport us deep into the heart of the Alpes-Azur mountains.

This extraordinary railway line, a testament to 19th-century engineering prowess, triumphantly returned to service last December, following an intensive programme of major restorative works that had necessitated its closure for a full year. The closure itself was a stark reminder of the region’s vulnerability to extreme weather; the line, particularly the section through the Roya Valley, suffered catastrophic damage during Storm Alex in October 2020. Bridges collapsed, tracks were washed away, and tunnels were inundated, severing vital links between the coastal plain and the isolated mountain communities. Its reopening was not merely a logistical achievement but a symbol of resilience for the entire region. Widely celebrated as one of Europe’s most spectacular train routes, the two-hour journey is an astonishing feat, ascending a remarkable 1,000 metres over a mere 100 kilometres, ultimately linking the vibrant city of Nice with the ancient, fortified town of Tende, nestled amidst the towering peaks of the Mercantour National Park.

The transition from urban sprawl to burgeoning wilderness is remarkably swift. Barely ten minutes after departing Nice-Ville, the sprawling suburbs begin to yield to gentle, undulating hills, their slopes dotted with picturesque, auburn-roofed villas and verdant copses of chestnut trees. As the train embarks on its relentless ascent, the sheer scale of the engineering challenge undertaken when construction began in 1883 becomes immediately apparent. This isn’t merely a railway; it’s a meticulously stitched ribbon of steel winding through an unforgiving landscape. Over 100 bridges and viaducts, some arching gracefully over deep ravines, others clinging precariously to mountainsides, punctuate the route. Almost as many tunnels, carved through solid rock, and formidable retaining walls stand as silent sentinels, safeguarding the track against the elements. Among the most ingenious features are the helical loop tunnels, a brilliant solution to gain significant altitude in confined spaces, where the train spirals upwards within the very heart of the mountain, emerging at a dramatically higher elevation. This intricate network of infrastructure, a blend of human ingenuity and natural grandeur, defines the breathtaking nature of the ride. The hills steadily gain height and heft, their gentle slopes transforming into a majestic mountainscape of jagged, imposing peaks that dwarf the valley road below, reducing it to little more than a thin, winding sliver of ribbon.

While many passengers opt to ride the entire length of the line directly to Tende, drawn by the allure of the high mountain trails that radiate from the town, we chose to break our journey, seeking to immerse ourselves in the distinct character of the valley’s intermediate settlements. Our first stop was Sospel, a charming medieval town that feels wonderfully untouched by time. Here, the Bévera River is elegantly spanned by the iconic 13th-century Pont-Vieux, a fortified bridge that once served as a toll gate on the ancient Salt Road, its robust stone arches reflecting centuries of history. It was market day, and even in this relatively small mountain community, the central square buzzed with activity. Stalls overflowed with vibrant flowers, fresh local produce, artisanal cheeses, and an enticing array of crusty, fragrant breads. We ambled through the quiet, winding streets, admiring crumbling Baroque churches adorned with faded frescoes and Gothic-style houses with their weathered stone facades. The sense of being transported to an entirely different region of France, far removed from the Riviera’s glamour, was profound, despite being barely an hour from Nice. This stark contrast underscores the rich geographical and cultural diversity compressed within a short distance in the Alpes-Maritimes.

As the train climbed higher into the Alpes-Maritimes, the feeling of stepping back in time intensified. Our next disembarkation point was La Brigue, a quintessential mountain village, often heralded as a gateway to the vast and pristine Mercantour National Park. The tangle of its medieval streets, with their ancient stone houses and narrow passages, seemed to be slowly rousing from a quiet winter slumber. La Brigue truly awakens in the warmer months, when hikers and nature enthusiasts flock to explore the park’s diverse ecosystems, home to ibex, chamois, golden eagles, and even wolves. The village’s most celebrated treasure, however, lies a couple of miles outside the town: the exquisite Chapel of Notre-Dame des Fontaines (Our Lady of Fountains). Named for the seven natural springs that perpetually trickle through the nearby rocks, parts of the church date back to the 13th century. Local legend recounts that villagers constructed it as a profound gesture of gratitude to the Virgin Mary after their fervent prayers for a new water source for La Brigue were miraculously answered. While its exterior façade is notably unassuming, almost rustic, the chapel’s interior is nothing short of extraordinary. Its walls and ceiling are completely covered in a dazzling array of 15th-century frescoes, masterfully executed by the Piedmontese artist Giovanni Canavesio and his workshop. These vibrant, incredibly detailed murals depict scenes from the Passion of Christ, the Last Judgment, and a chilling Danse Macabre, rendered with such vividness and narrative power that the chapel is often reverently referred to as the "Sistine Chapel of the Southern Alps." The comparison is apt, not just for the sheer volume and quality of the artwork, but for its spiritual intensity and the profound impact it has on visitors, offering a rare glimpse into medieval religious artistry in a remarkably preserved state.

Finally, we reached Tende, the terminus of the Train des Merveilles, where houses appear to cling precariously to the steep mountainside. Here, at an altitude of approximately 800 metres above sea level, the air is crisp, the silence profound, broken only by the whispers of the wind through wooded slopes that ascend to formidable peaks. Tende’s unique character stems from its history, having only definitively become French after World War II, following centuries of Savoyard and then Italian rule. This dual heritage is evident in its architecture, cuisine, and even the local dialect. We navigated the modern main street before delving into the clustered, labyrinthine medieval houses of the old town, winding our way up to the evocative ruins of the Château Lascaris. Perched high above the village, these remnants of a powerful feudal castle, once home to the Counts of Tende, offer panoramic views that stretch across the surrounding valleys to the distant, rugged peaks of the Marguareis massif – the very last mountains before the Italian border. The ascent was a considerable pull, and for our reward, we indulged in colossal croque monsieurs at Stella Alpina, a delightful establishment that seamlessly blends the charm of an outdoor equipment shop with a rustic eatery. Around us, hardy-looking individuals in Lycra cycling tops refueled with pints of local lager and generous platters of regional cheese and cured meats, embodying the active, outdoor spirit of the valley.

Much restored, we immersed ourselves in the Musée des Merveilles, a modern museum dedicated to the rich heritage of the Roya Valley. Through fractured French and enthusiastic gestures, we learned about the region’s most ancient and profound claim to fame: the Vallée des Merveilles, one of Europe’s largest Neolithic and Bronze Age rock-engraving sites. Thousands of enigmatic petroglyphs, depicting human figures, animals, geometric patterns, and agricultural tools, are etched into the glacial rocks, offering an unparalleled window into the spiritual beliefs and daily lives of prehistoric communities. The museum meticulously documents these fascinating artifacts and the ongoing efforts to preserve them. Tende’s more recent history, relatively speaking, is inextricably linked to the fabled Salt Road (Route du Sel), a crucial mule train route that traversed the formidable Alps, connecting the Piedmontese plains with the Ligurian coast. Used extensively from the Middle Ages until the 18th century, this trade artery was vital for the movement of salt, wool, olive oil, and other goods. Tende, strategically positioned as the last significant stop-off on the French side of this arduous trade route, developed into a prosperous market town, a historical context that partly explains why a settlement of such size and complexity flourished in such an isolated, mountainous location.

The following morning saw us back in Nice, ready to pivot from Alpine grandeur to the renowned coastal beauty of the Côte d’Azur. The efficiency of the regional train network is a significant boon for exploration. A mere 40-minute journey along the coast brought us to Antibes, a town that perfectly blends ancient history with modern glamour. We strolled past the gleaming superyachts moored in the Port Vauban marina, a playground for the international elite, before ascending to the 16th-century ramparts. Here, bathed in glorious sunshine, we watched kitesurfers effortlessly whisk across the azure bay, their colorful sails a vibrant contrast against the deep blue sea. Lunch was a culinary delight at a charming restaurant on the bustling Place Nationale. I savored a plate of perfectly crispy fritto misto, a medley of lightly fried seafood, while playfully trying to ignore my husband’s enthusiastic enjoyment of buttery, garlicky snails, a classic Provençal starter. The next day, a quick 10-minute hop east transported us to Beaulieu-sur-Mer, a town that simply oozes Belle Époque glamour. Its elegant streets are lined with grand villas and stately hotels, remnants of a bygone era when European aristocracy flocked to this serene stretch of coastline. The Plage de la Petite Afrique, with its palm-fringed promenade and calm waters, provided the perfect setting for a refreshing paddle and a truly magnificent pile of mussels, luxuriantly thick with cream and garlic – a quintessential Riviera experience.

Food, inevitably, played a significant and memorable role in our time spent in Nice itself. Despite the undeniable tourist draw of the old town (Vieux Nice), we discovered two absolute culinary gems that stood out. A treasured recommendation led us to Acchiardo, a venerable institution where the fourth generation of the Acchiardo family continues to serve up authentic, classic local dishes. Here, we indulged in the rich, slow-cooked beef stew known as daube Niçoise, a hearty dish infused with red wine, vegetables, and herbs, and a succulent duck breast accompanied by a delicate fig sauce. The second discovery, Les Bar Des Oiseaux, was a serendipitous stumble. This classic bistro exudes an artistic charm, with its wood-paneled walls adorned with flawless reproductions of masterpieces by artists ranging from Joan Miró to Paul Klee and Roy Lichtenstein. It offers not just a meal, but an experience. My bourride, a traditional Provençal fish stew, distinct from its more famous cousin bouillabaisse by its creamy aioli base, was arguably one of the most delicious dishes I have ever had the pleasure of tasting – a testament to the region’s profound culinary heritage.

And that, truly, is the enduring beauty of Nice. It serves as both a captivating destination in its own right, with its vibrant markets, iconic Promenade des Anglais, and rich artistic history, and simultaneously acts as an unparalleled gateway to profoundly different worlds, all accessible with remarkable ease via its efficient rail network. The Train des Merveilles is, unarguably, the crowning highlight of this diverse region. Its extraordinary twists and turns, the breathtaking climb, and the unfolding of a grandiose, wild, and largely untouched mountain scenery offer a dramatic counterpoint to the bustling, sun-drenched streets of Nice. To pack such a spectrum of experiences — from the sophisticated coastal resorts and their culinary delights to the ancient, rugged charm of the Alpes-Azur villages and their artistic treasures — into one short trip is to make the absolute most of this diversely beautiful region. Indeed, it is a journey des merveilles in every sense of the word.

The trip was generously provided by Mama Shelter hotels and the Nice Côte d’Azur tourist board. Doubles at Mama Shelter Nice start from £114 B&B. The Train des Merveilles runs daily from June to September, offering the added benefit of an onboard guide on the 9:30 AM departure, who provides fascinating commentary on the history, engineering, and natural wonders of the route. A regional rail day pass, the Ter Zou!, which includes travel on the Train des Merveilles, is available for a convenient €20, offering excellent value for exploring the Alpes-Maritimes department.