Saunas, cinnamon buns and coastal scenery on the new rail route from Malmö to Oslo

This direct connection, a 6.5-hour traverse along Sweden’s breathtaking western corridor, represents a significant leap forward in Scandinavian rail travel. Previously, navigating between these two vibrant Nordic capitals often involved tedious bus rides and fragmented train transfers, turning what should be a scenic passage into a logistical puzzle. Snälltåget’s innovative direct line simplifies this considerably, offering convenience and affordability with tickets starting from an astonishingly low £11 each way. Its immediate success is undeniable, having shuttled over 25,000 passengers since its summer launch, a testament to the growing demand for accessible and sustainable inter-city travel in a region increasingly embracing "flygskam" – the Swedish concept of "flight shame" – in favour of greener alternatives. This route is more than just a commute; it’s an invitation to rediscover the romance of rail, a sentiment that first captivated me a decade ago on a journey from Stockholm to Gothenburg, where I found solace in a cosy dark-wood cabin, serenaded by a live pianist in the dining car. This time, my adventure begins in the often-overlooked southern city of Malmö, poised to make a series of enriching stops along Sweden’s western shore before reaching the Norwegian capital.

Malmö, strategically positioned across the Øresund Bridge from Copenhagen, is a city that, in my opinion, too often gets overshadowed by its more polished northern counterpart, Stockholm. It possesses a distinct grittiness and a palpable energy, a raw charm that contrasts sharply with the capital’s more refined façade. Its residents, I quickly discovered, embody a remarkable openness and curiosity; within an hour of my arrival, I found myself invited for drinks by a group of locals – a level of spontaneous hospitality I rarely encountered during my time living in Stockholm. This outgoing spirit is perhaps a natural outgrowth of Malmö’s dynamic demographic, where almost half the population is under 35 and an astonishing 187 nationalities are represented, fostering a genuine hotbed of creativity and innovation. This cultural mosaic is evident throughout the city, from its culinary scene to its artistic institutions. The Form/Design Center, for instance, a vibrant meeting point and exhibition space for design, crafts, and architecture enthusiasts, is housed within a beautifully repurposed 16th-century grain store, symbolizing Malmö’s ability to blend its rich history with contemporary vision. Complementing this are the impressive collections at Moderna Museet and Malmö Konsthall, two modern art galleries that showcase both established and emerging Nordic and international artists, cementing Malmö’s reputation as a cultural powerhouse.

The city’s youthful pulse beats strongest in Möllevången, affectionately known as Möllan, a trendy neighbourhood brimming with creatives. Here, one could easily imagine every passer-by either attending art college or having just returned from a cutting-edge weekend in Berlin, such is the area’s effortlessly cool vibe. My friend Rob, who has called Malmö home for nearly a decade, guided me through Folkets Park, the historic "people’s park" – Sweden’s oldest public park, established in 1891 as a leisure space for the working class. He pointed out his favourite pizza spot, Far i Hatten, charmingly nestled within quaint wooden huts, a local institution for al fresco dining and live music during warmer months. We then settled at Ava, an organic wine bar on a leafy square dotted with other hip restaurants, for a refreshing beer. The atmosphere was uncannily similar to London Fields in Hackney – a vibrant urban oasis where creativity and community intertwine. Resisting the allure of a prolonged, purposefully staid bar crawl, we opted for a final nightcap at Bar Bobo, a dimly lit, cozy spot that perfectly rounded off a delightful evening in this unexpectedly captivating city.

The following morning heralded an early start, with Snälltåget’s single direct Oslo-bound train departing Malmö Central at 6:38 am (though plans are in motion to increase frequency next year). The station buzzed with an eclectic mix of families embarking on holiday adventures and backpackers laden with rucksacks the size of small appliances, all united by the anticipation of the journey ahead. As the train pulled away, we swiftly passed the imposing Romanesque towers of Lund Cathedral, a magnificent structure dating back to the 11th century, a stark contrast to the flat, yellowing agricultural fields that soon dominated the landscape. The journey then gracefully skirted the picturesque Apelviken bay, a long, sandy horseshoe beach near Varberg, renowned for its excellent conditions for kitesurfing and surfing, its vibrant waters hinting at the coastal charms to come.

Varberg itself is a quintessential Swedish coastal market town, possessing a quaint charm that reminded me of its British counterparts. Bunting fluttered gently in the sea breeze, cobbled streets invited leisurely strolls, and intimate cafes beckoned with the promise of warm beverages. The weekend market was a sensory delight, with vendors proudly displaying fresh vegetables, seasonal fruits, homemade marmalades, artisanal leather belts, and hand-knitted socks. However, it was Varberg’s reputation as a spa town that truly drew me in, specifically its enchanting, Moorish-inspired Kallbadhuset (cold bath house). This architectural marvel, perched on sturdy wooden piles above the bracing Kattegat sea, offers visitors access to segregated men’s and women’s saunas for approximately £8. The saunas, with their spellbinding sea views, provide a sanctuary of warmth before the invigorating plunge into the brisk ocean water – a perfect antidote to an early 6 am start, especially after a bottle of red wine the night before. Floating on my back, I gazed up at a group of Swedish veterans, comfortably baring all in the nude bathhouse, their forms silhouetted against the Kallbadhuset’s distinctive mustard shades, creating an almost Hockney-esque tableau of serene, uninhibited joy.

The tradition of nude bathing runs deep in Varberg, with a sign outside Skarpe Nord, a community-run women’s bathing spot nearby, proudly proclaiming over a century of this practice. As I ambled along the promenade, I passed a series of other designated naked bathing areas, nestled amidst a cavernous passage of blasted rocks that evoked images of a secret pathway from a fantasy epic. Despite the allure of these historic spots, the persistently grey weather made the inviting warmth of my hotel’s spa a more appealing prospect. Deep within the bowels of Hotell Gästis lies a truly unique feature: a meticulously crafted replica of Vladimir Lenin’s favourite bathhouse. The hotel’s eccentric owner, Lasse Diding, a fervent admirer of the communist leader, built this spa as a homage, inspired by a visit to the original bathhouse in St Petersburg in the 1980s. This slightly eerie yet fascinating subterranean space is clad in over 75,000 gleaming cobalt tiles and adorned with candlelit busts of various communist leaders, creating an atmosphere that is both bizarre and undeniably intriguing. Diding’s enduring interest in the communist movement, sparked during the Vietnam War, is a pervasive force in Varberg, manifesting in several visible left-leaning monuments across the town. These include a giant Palestinian flag, Hotell Havanna – an explicit ode to revolutionary Cuba – and a powerful statue of Danuta Danielsson, who became an international symbol of solidarity after famously striking a marching neo-Nazi with her handbag in Växjö in 1985. These elements add an unexpected layer of political commentary and historical intrigue to Varberg’s otherwise tranquil coastal charm.

The following morning, I boarded a fast train for the short 39-minute ride to Gothenburg, Sweden’s second-largest city. After checking into the sophisticated, French boudoir-style Hotel Pigalle, conveniently located just five minutes’ walk from Central station, I set out to explore. My path led me along Kungsgatan, the city’s bustling modern shopping artery, towards Magasinsgatan, an area renowned for its independent boutiques and vintage finds. Here, a treasure trove of vintage shops like Ragtime, Pop, and Humana coexist with artisanal craft stores such as Customwood, where bespoke wooden furniture is crafted to order, reflecting Gothenburg’s thriving design scene.

No visit to Sweden is complete without experiencing fika, the cherished Swedish tradition of taking a break to enjoy coffee and a sweet treat, a ritual deeply ingrained in the nation’s social fabric. I indulged in this delightful custom at Da Matteo, a sprawling barn-turned-cafe spread across three floors. The interiors, with their impeccable Scandi-industrial aesthetic, seemed plucked directly from the pages of a design magazine, where bespectacled patrons diligently worked away on their laptops, surrounded by the inviting scents of freshly baked bread and coffee wafting from the in-house bakery and coffee roastery. My bullar (a classic cardamom bun, a quintessential Swedish pastry) and a creamy latte cost just under a tenner, a small price for such a perfectly crafted moment of Hygge. Later, as I wandered through Slottsskogen park, a wave of recognition washed over me, reminding me why I had once contemplated moving to Gothenburg after a fleeting first visit years ago. Sweden’s second-largest city is remarkably compact and effortlessly easy-going, boasting a rough-around-the-edges charm akin to Malmö in certain districts, yet offering the liveability, abundant nature, and rich culture often associated with Stockholm. At its heart lies the picturesque old town of Haga, with its narrow cobbled streets, inviting wafts of baked goods, and the nostalgic sound of creaky, wooden trams trundling by. Slottsskogen, however, remains my favourite park in Europe. Roughly the size of London’s Hyde Park, it’s a sprawling urban sanctuary home to deer, penguins, and charming Gotland ponies – precisely the kind of place where one can happily lose hours strolling without purpose, seamlessly connecting with nature amidst an urban setting.

The Gothenburg to Oslo leg of the journey proved to be the cinematic climax of the entire trip, a visual feast that unfolded with every passing kilometre. Initially, the landscape was a gentle tapestry of rolling green pastures, cows grazing peacefully on riverbanks, and forests thick with towering conifers beneath a vast, blue summer sky. But as the train pressed northward, nature truly began to show off its grandeur. Lakes widened into majestic expanses, the trees grew an even richer shade of green, and dramatic granite canyons appeared, growing grander and more imposing with every turn. This breathtaking transition captivated everyone on board, drawing excited children to press their noses against the windows, their gasps of wonder echoing the silent awe of the adults. The journey itself became a meditation on the raw, untamed beauty of the Scandinavian wilderness, a powerful reminder of the deep connection between the people and their environment.

Upon pulling into Oslo, keen to experience its natural beauty up close, I quickly dropped my bags at Citybox, a minimalist yet comfortable hotel just a few minutes’ walk from the station. My destination was Sognsvann, a popular lake and recreational area nestled on the northern outskirts of the city, serving as the perfect starting point for a circular walk up to Vettakollen, a renowned viewpoint. The hike was an easy, pleasant ascent, and after approximately 30 minutes, I reached a rocky mound fringed by fragrant pine trees, where families were picnicking, their laughter mingling with the gentle rustle of leaves. From this elevated vantage point, Oslo unfurled beneath me – an impressive urban sprawl of modern metal and glass structures stretching gracefully towards the deep blue expanse of the fjord. This vista perfectly encapsulated what, for me, makes Scandinavia so profoundly special: the seamless, almost effortless collision of the urban and the natural worlds. It is a place where vibrant city life coexists in perfect harmony with breathtaking wilderness, offering an unparalleled quality of life rooted in an appreciation for both human innovation and the enduring power of nature.

The trip was thoughtfully provided by Visit Sweden, showcasing the best of the country’s rail and regional attractions. One-way tickets from Malmö to Oslo with Snälltåget start from 149 Swedish kronor (£11), offering exceptional value for such a scenic and convenient journey. Accommodation highlights included comfortable double rooms at Hotell Gästis from £90, stylish doubles at Hotel Pigalle from £85, and convenient single rooms at Citybox Oslo from £68, providing a range of options for every traveller.