In the footsteps of a Welsh borderlands baddie: walking the Mortimer Trail

Sir Roger Mortimer, whose name has become synonymous with ambition, illicit romance, and political ruthlessness, was a figure of immense drama in 14th-century England. This is the man who, with a flair for the scandalous, allegedly conducted a passionate affair with Isabella, the Queen of England herself, a liaison that sent shockwaves through the royal court and the kingdom. Beyond the alleged romantic entanglement, Mortimer is widely believed to have orchestrated the brutal murder of Queen Isabella’s husband, the much-maligned King Edward II, in 1327. Following the king’s deposition and death, Mortimer seized the reins of power, becoming the de facto tyrant of the realm. For three tumultuous years in the 1320s, he wielded absolute authority, using his position to relentlessly feather his own nest, accumulate vast wealth, and dispense patronage to his allies, all while effectively sidelining the young Edward III. His rule was characterised by an unprecedented concentration of power and a disregard for traditional governance, leaving a lasting scar on England’s political landscape. One might wryly observe that world leaders of such unbridled ambition and morally ambiguous conduct are, thankfully, less common in modern times, or at least operate with greater subtlety.

Mortimer’s historical stomping ground, surprisingly, was not the grand stages of Westminster or London’s bustling markets, but rather the rugged and beautiful Welsh Marches. He was a quintessential Marcher Lord, a powerful baron granted special privileges and authority to defend the Anglo-Welsh borderlands, a territory often described as a law unto itself. The Mortimer Trail, tracing his family’s historical influence, now wends its way through this tranquil countryside, from the historic market town of Ludlow in Shropshire to the serene Herefordshire border town of Kington. This 30-mile journey offers the perfect distance for a challenging yet rewarding weekend hike, inviting modern-day adventurers to traverse landscapes that once bore witness to profound political intrigue and military conflict. The contrast between the area’s peaceful, orderly present and its turbulent, lawless past, epitomised by the outrageous standards of Sir Roger, is striking. While the Mortimer Trail itself has existed for some years, a new guidebook and a user-friendly app have recently been launched, bringing this magnificently horrid hero and his dramatic narrative back into the limelight for a new generation of walkers and history enthusiasts.

My journey into Mortimer’s world begins in Ludlow, a town renowned today for its vibrant foodie traditions, but equally celebrated as a place that simply oozes history from every one of its crooked lanes and ancient timber-framed buildings. Strolling down Broad Street, one cannot help but admire the distinctive bay window of The Angel hotel, a landmark forever linked to another national hero, Horatio Nelson. Local legend recounts that in 1802, the celebrated victor of the Battle of the Nile, fresh from his triumphs, waved to the adoring crowd from this very window, his left hand – the one he still possessed – raised in greeting. He is said to have shouted, "Thank you for the oak!" a poignant reference to the timber from Shropshire that helped build the British fleet. Behind him, the scandalous ménage à trois that captivated Georgian society was in full swing: his mistress, the dazzling Emma Hamilton, and her long-suffering husband, Sir William, completed the tableau. This domestic drama, played out against a backdrop of national heroism, thrilled the British public until Nelson’s death at Trafalgar in 1805. (A note for future visitors: The Angel restaurant is currently closed for refurbishment but is expected to reopen soon, promising to rekindle its historic charm).

For lunch, I settle under the impressive walls of Ludlow Castle at CSONS, one of the town’s many celebrated cafes. Ludlow’s reputation as a culinary hotspot is well-deserved; the town boasts a plethora of independent eateries, an excellent farmer’s market overflowing with local produce, and at least three delightful "parlour pubs." These unique establishments, often little more than the front room of a private house, are typically marked only by a subtle lamp outside and frequently serve just one type of cask ale, offering an intimate and authentic taste of traditional British pub culture.

Ludlow Castle itself is, in many ways, the true starting point of the Mortimer Trail. As a primary seat of English borderland power in medieval times, it commanded a strategic position overlooking the Teme Valley and the gateway to Wales. A detour to explore its extensive ruins is highly recommended. Visitors should particularly seek out the solar wing, a private apartment built for Queen Isabella, who resided here in 1328, during the height of her controversial relationship with Roger Mortimer. Historical records suggest that Sir Roger’s long-suffering wife, Joan, was also in attendance at the castle during this period, though she was reportedly housed in a separate wing – a detail that speaks volumes about the awkward dynamics of the royal court at the time. History, with its characteristic discretion, has not recorded where Sir Roger chose to spend his nights, but one can only imagine the dramatic possibilities that a modern streaming service, like Netflix, would undoubtedly explore if they were to dramatise this scandalous chapter.

The trail proper sets off across Dinham Bridge, a picturesque crossing of the River Teme, before climbing steadily into the ancient woodlands of Mortimer Forest. From these elevated paths, hikers are rewarded with breathtaking views back towards Ludlow Castle and the rolling Shropshire countryside beyond. This ancient woodland is a haven for wildlife, and keen-eyed walkers might spot majestic deer silently moving through the trees or catch a glimpse of the powerful goshawks that are resident in the area. My first night on the trail is spent at Salwey Lodge, a charming accommodation run by the farming owners, Arabella and Hugo. They are not only passionate advocates for the trail but have also developed their own handy guiding app to assist walkers. Furthermore, their invaluable shuttle service means that visitors can undertake the hike without needing a car, as Ludlow itself is conveniently located on the main railway line connecting Shrewsbury and Hereford.

Salwey Lodge proves to be the perfect setting to fully immerse oneself in the ambience of a world that produced figures like Sir Roger, a man capable of regicide. The lodge itself is steeped in history, its walls lined with the kind of ancient ancestral oil portraits that most families, including my own, regrettably neglected to commission. Adding to the historical intrigue, an ancestor of the Salweys was implicated in the Farnley Wood Plot of 1663, a Presbyterian conspiracy against King Charles II, which led to his imprisonment in the Tower of London for anti-monarchical tendencies. Close to the lodge lie the scant remains of Richard’s Castle, believed to have been an early Mortimer family residence. While little of the castle itself survives, a beautiful, decommissioned 12th-century church nearby offers a serene glimpse into the region’s past. The superlative food at the lodge, derived from the house’s own vegetable garden, the farm, and meticulously sourced local suppliers, is a testament to the region’s rich agricultural heritage and provides a delicious counterpoint to the day’s historical reflections.

Day two of the walk leads me further into the undulating landscape, ascending through more dense woodland to reveal truly fabulous panoramic views of the Shropshire countryside. A particular highlight is the Iron Age hill fort at Croft Ambrey. This impressive earthwork, a testament to the defensive ingenuity of early Britons, was occupied for six centuries before being mysteriously abandoned around the time of Emperor Claudius’s invasion in AD 43. The Romans’ arrival fundamentally reshaped the social and political landscape of Britain, often rendering these formidable hill forts obsolete.

Throughout the entire weekend, I encounter only a handful of other people on the path, a testament to the tranquil and unspoiled nature of this corner of England. Yet, the landscape itself offers constant reminders that this area was once a highly militarised and dangerous borderland. For centuries throughout the Middle Ages, the Welsh people maintained a sturdy and often fierce resistance to the Norman conquerors and their English successors. This resistance was met with an unwavering and often brutal response from the English crown and the powerful Marcher Lords, who were effectively frontline commanders in this ongoing conflict. Sir Roger Mortimer, of course, was right there in the thick of it, a key player in the brutal Anglo-Welsh wars before his dramatic rise to power. His story, however, ended abruptly when the newly crowned Edward III, chafing under Mortimer’s arrogant dominance, orchestrated his downfall. The insufferable upstart was captured and publicly hanged at Tyburn in 1330, a stark and brutal lesson in the precariousness of power. It’s worth noting that the impressive ruins of Roger Mortimer’s main residence, Wigmore Castle, can be glimpsed from Croft Ambrey, a tantalising visual link to the man himself. Inexplicably, the main Mortimer Trail does not directly pass through Wigmore, a significant oversight for those keen to fully trace his footsteps. A diversion, however, would add approximately five miles to the route, a worthwhile addition for dedicated history buffs.

The path continues to roll along pleasantly, revealing magnificent panoramas of the distant Welsh mountains, a constant reminder of the historical fault line that defines this region. Eventually, the trail drops down to the tranquil River Lugg, leading to an overnight stop at the charming Riverside Inn in Aymestrey. The food here is, once again, excellent, showcasing local produce and traditional British fare. The kind of hearty breakfast served, if not approached with some self-restraint, could easily induce an early siesta rather than fuel a big day of hiking, but it’s the perfect start to another day on the trail.

Day three begins with a long, leisurely ramble by the river, its gentle flow providing a serene backdrop, before ascending into quiet woodlands and high heaths. Here, the landscape continues to whisper tales of historical military madness. The serene church at Byton, for instance, was sacked not just once, but several times by angry Welsh nobles. Among them were Llywelyn ap Gruffudd, the last independent Prince of Wales, and later, the legendary rebel leader Owain Glyndŵr, figures whose names resonate with Welsh national pride and English historical conflict. The Mortimers, naturally, were consistently in the mix of these borderland skirmishes and power plays. Llywelyn ap Gruffudd was famously killed in 1282 by forces under the command of Edmund Mortimer, Roger’s father, a pivotal moment in the English conquest of Wales. Generations later, another Edmund Mortimer, Roger’s great-grandson, further complicated Anglo-Welsh relations by defiantly cocking a snook at Henry IV. In an act that blended romance and rebellion, he married Owain Glyndŵr’s daughter, Catrin, in 1402, forging a powerful, albeit ultimately tragic, alliance between two formidable Welsh Marcher families.

While it is possible to shorten this third day, opting for a 12-mile limit and finishing at the picturesque church in Titley, I find it far more rewarding to press on. The path rises steadily towards the Welsh border, culminating in a meeting with the ultimate symbol of militarisation and tribal anxiety: Offa’s Dyke. This formidable earthwork, commissioned by King Offa of Mercia in the late 8th century, was designed as a colossal security wall, intended to demarcate and defend his kingdom from the neighbouring Welsh. It was, in its day, a monument to a deeply divided landscape, designed to keep two irredeemably hostile peoples apart. Today, as the path curls across a seemingly featureless mountain pasture, there it is – no longer a formidable barrier, but a gentle, undulating ripple in the earth. It is now largely used by sheep, who innocently employ its contours to gain a better vantage point, perhaps to see if there’s more succulent grass in the next field. Sitting atop this ancient boundary, one cannot help but ruminate on the profound folly of human conflict and the transient nature of even the most imposing man-made divisions. After this moment of reflection, it’s a short, satisfying stride into Kington, the trail’s peaceful terminus, where a decent cafe, The Border Bean, offers well-deserved refreshments while awaiting Arabella’s convenient collection service.

The Mortimer Trail offers far more than just a walk; it’s an immersive journey through a landscape rich with history, natural beauty, and tales of ambition, power, and defiance. It celebrates the complex tapestry of British heritage, where even the most notorious figures leave an indelible mark on the land.

The trip was supported by Visit Shropshire. For those inspired to follow in Mortimer’s footsteps, the new Mortimer Trail guidebook can be downloaded online via Visit Herefordshire or purchased in person at the Castle Bookshop in Ludlow. Salwey Lodge offers a comprehensive four-night Mortimer Trail package that includes accommodation at both Salwey Lodge and the Riverside Inn, detailed walking information, hearty breakfasts, packed lunches, one delicious dinner, and convenient local transfers for an all-inclusive price of £560 per person.