It takes a village – the pioneering tourism project breathing new life into India’s mountain communities

This remote haven is home to a mere 22 families, their lives intrinsically woven into the fabric of the surrounding Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary. As an intrepid traveller, guided by the insightful Deepak, a local villager whose knowledge of the land is as deep as the valleys themselves, one embarks on a journey that transcends mere sightseeing. The stroll through Kathdhara unfolds against a panorama of layered hills, their ancient contours rising majestically towards the soaring, snow-capped Panchachuli peaks in the distance—a breathtaking spectacle that inspires awe and reflection. Along these paths, visitors are greeted with genuine warmth by villagers tending their homes and gardens, their smiles as welcoming as the strings of Diwali fairy lights that add an extra, magical sparkle to the early evening scene, illuminating the festive spirit that permeates the crisp mountain air.

The immersive experience in Kathdhara is part of a walking holiday with Village Ways, an organisation celebrating its 21st anniversary this year. A true pioneer in responsible, community-based tourism (CBT) in India, Village Ways was conceived by Manisha and Himanshu Pande, the visionary couple behind Khali Estate, a charming small hotel nestled within the reserve. Their core mission was to counteract the pervasive issue of urban migration, a socio-economic challenge where rural populations abandon traditional village life in pursuit of perceived better opportunities in bustling cities. By fostering low-impact tourism, Village Ways aimed to create sustainable livelihoods, thereby supporting and revitalising traditional rural communities and preserving their unique cultural heritage. Launched in 2005 with a modest network of just five villages within the Binsar reserve, where guests would hike between community-run guesthouses, the initiative has since blossomed, now encompassing over 30 villages across diverse regions of India, from the central plains of Madhya Pradesh to the tropical backwaters of Kerala, demonstrating the universal applicability and success of its model.

"The idea was to bring the community together to run something collectively, training people in all aspects of business. Everyone has a role to play," explains Manisha Pande, highlighting the democratic and empowering nature of their model. This collaborative approach ensures that the benefits of tourism are distributed equitably among all villagers, from cleaners and porters to cooks and guides, with key decisions made collectively by village tourism committees. This emphasis on local ownership and shared responsibility has not only transformed the lives of participating communities but has also captured the attention of the Indian government. Manisha notes, "The Village Ways model has captured the attention of the government, too, and we’re collaborating on various projects in other states now, which is exciting." This recognition underscores the potential of CBT as a powerful tool for rural development and sustainable growth, offering a blueprint for other regions grappling with similar challenges. Accommodation, mostly in small, village-built guesthouses designed to sleep up to eight guests, rather than traditional homestays, ensures a consistent standard while still channelling income directly to the community. Back at the Kathdhara guesthouse, the immersive experience deepens as guests are invited to join local Diwali celebrations, sharing traditional sweets, lighting earthen lamps (diyas), and participating in prayers to the goddess Lakshmi by a makeshift shrine, experiencing the festival of lights in its most authentic form. The evening culminates in a delicious feast of local Kumaoni cuisine—a wholesome thali featuring spicy yams, nourishing dal, pungent hemp chutney, and warm, freshly baked roti—before guests drift off to sleep, cocooned by the profound silence and tranquility of the mountains.

The dawn of the next day brings clear blue skies, a perfect canvas for further exploration. After a hearty breakfast, the journey continues with a gentle walk to the neighbouring Gonap village. The Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary, established in 1988, spans a vital 47 square kilometres (18 square miles), primarily dedicated to the protection of its unique broadleaf oak forests and diverse wildlife. However, for the indigenous communities residing within its boundaries, the sanctuary’s creation brought significant changes, notably ending traditional practices like tree felling for fuel and construction, and hunting for sustenance. These restrictions, while crucial for conservation, often created economic hardships, tempting many villagers to abandon their ancestral homes for the perceived opportunities of city life. Village Ways emerged as a lifeline, offering a compelling alternative: former hunters, with their unparalleled knowledge of the terrain and its creatures, were trained as guides, transforming their traditional skills into sustainable livelihoods. This shift not only provided economic stability but also reignited a sense of pride among the villagers as they witnessed outsiders’ genuine interest in their local customs, traditions, and the rich biodiversity of their homeland.

The hike to Gonap winds through pristine forests of towering pines, ancient oaks, and vibrant rhododendrons. Visiting in March or April reveals a breathtaking spectacle as the landscape explodes in a riot of red, pink, and white blooms. The journey offers a deeper appreciation for the region’s ecological wonders, particularly the majestic Himalayan oaks, which play a critical role in the mountain ecosystem. Their extensive root networks are vital for storing and releasing water, preventing soil erosion, and stabilising the fragile mountain slopes, making them ecological linchpins. The forest floor is a natural pharmacy, teeming with countless medicinal plants; the bright red flowers of wild turmeric hint at its healing properties, while other indigenous plants like goat weed (traditionally believed to stop bleeding) and Indian tobacco (used for toothache) showcase the rich ethnobotanical heritage of the Kumaon region, often rooted in Ayurvedic wisdom passed down through generations.

While leopards, though elusive, roam these forests—their presence occasionally betrayed by footprints and scat, or the discovery of porcupine quills—the sanctuary is perhaps best known as a paradise for birdlife. Over 200 species call Binsar home, making it a globally recognised Important Bird Area (IBA). The walk becomes an impromptu ornithological tour as Deepak, with his keen eye and extensive knowledge, frequently pauses to point out magnificent birds: the majestic crested serpent eagle soaring overhead, the tiny, melodious leaf warbler flitting through the canopy, the striking black-headed jay, and the noisy, colourful parakeets that add a lively soundtrack to the forest.

Gonap itself is a minuscule settlement, home to just seven families today, underscoring the deep remoteness and delicate balance of life in this part of the Himalayas. Upon arrival, visitors are welcomed with the quintessential Kumaoni hospitality: steaming cups of chai and plates of warm pakora, savoured amidst staggering mountain views. The sight of Eurasian griffon vultures effortlessly riding the thermals adds a sense of wild grandeur to the experience. Deepak then guides guests to a tiny, revered temple, passing traditional houses whose gardens overflow with unique local produce like jumbo lemons and "air potatoes" growing on giant stalks, all accompanied by the hypnotic, rhythmic sounds of cicadas filling the warm air.

The five villages within the Binsar circuit are deliberately left unconnected by roads, preserving their pristine character and encouraging exploration on foot. The well-maintained paths between them offer relatively easy walking, allowing ample time for rest and appreciation of the surroundings. For those seeking a more rigorous challenge, a higher-altitude route awaits in the nearby Saryu and Pindar valleys, close to the border with Tibet, promising more strenuous hikes and even more dramatic vistas. Due to time constraints, the journey returns from Gonap to the historic Khali Estate, but not before a crucial stop at Zero Point lookout. At 2,500 metres, this is the highest vantage spot in the reserve, offering an unparalleled 360-degree Himalayan panorama, dominated by the awe-inspiring Nanda Devi, India’s second-highest mountain, flanked by other iconic peaks like Trishul and Nanda Kot.

The Khali Estate, built 150 years ago by the formidable British commissioner General Sir Henry Ramsay, serves as a picturesque and historically rich base for explorations. Accommodation is provided in charming stone rondavel cabins, and a communal sitting room with a roaring fire offers a cosy refuge from the mountain chill. During his tenure in Kumaon, Ramsay is remembered for his significant contributions to local infrastructure, including founding a leper colony in Almora, the historical capital of the region, and implementing regulations to control tree felling, an early precursor to conservation efforts. A tour with Himanshu Pande delves deep into the estate’s storied past, poring over antique photographs and dusty library texts, revealing its role not only as a British colonial outpost but also as a peaceful retreat for the Nehru family and an ashram for Mahatma Gandhi himself. Surrounded by dense forest, the estate is utterly peaceful, the nights often punctuated by the distant, haunting sound of barking deer.

For visitors eager to delve deeper into the region’s rich history and the transformative characters who shaped it, Village Ways has launched a new itinerary: "Khali in Kumaon." Beyond the captivating Binsar walks, this comprehensive journey includes a stop at the charming lakeside hill station of Nainital, a popular colonial-era resort town, which serves as a natural break during the 270-mile journey from Delhi. Guests will also explore Almora, a cultural hub where Village Ways actively supports a local primary school, demonstrating their commitment to community development beyond tourism. The itinerary also features a visit to the museum dedicated to Jim Corbett, the legendary Anglo-Indian hunter turned conservationist, whose profound understanding of the jungle led him to protect India’s wildlife. Furthermore, the "Gandhi trail" leads into the serene hills to the Anasakti ashram, where some of the first looms established for homespun cotton, or Khadi, can be seen—a powerful symbol of economic independence and non-violent resistance against British rule.

The final day of the trip, however, shifts focus firmly to the present and future, as a vibrant stream of villagers from across the region converge at Khali Estate to join the joyous anniversary celebrations. Other founders of Village Ways, British development and tourism experts, are also present, creating a rich tapestry of shared purpose. The day is filled with inspiring talks, communal feasting, and exuberant dancing, reflecting the success and camaraderie of the Village Ways network. It is here that one learns about the Village Ways charitable trust, which extends the organisation’s impact by supporting vital healthcare initiatives in these remote villages, including training local women to run mobile clinics—a powerful example of women’s empowerment and grassroots health provision. Since its inception, Village Ways has hosted over 7,000 guests, directly benefiting approximately 5,000 people, from local artists to taxi drivers, and crucially, 470 villagers are actively involved in decision-making as members of the village tourism committees across six Indian states, embodying true local agency.

As local artisans proudly display their locally made scarves and handicrafts, many young villagers—now confidently employed as guides, cooks, or porters—share heartfelt testimonies about the profound positive impact tourism has had on their lives. "Since I joined as a guide three years ago, I’ve learned lots about Binsar and our birds—and my English has really improved," shares 23-year-old Ashirwad Joshi from Dalar village. "I’m very happy to be part of it and share my knowledge with visitors—it makes me proud." His words encapsulate the tangible benefits: skill development, economic independence, and a revitalised sense of cultural identity and self-worth. When the time comes to leave the next morning for the long drive to Kathgodam and the onward train journey to Delhi, it is this pervasive feeling of mutual respect and warmth, a genuine connection forged between visitors and hosts, that lingers most profoundly. The challenges are undeniable, from the gradual ageing of village populations to a noticeable decline in international visitor numbers to the area since the global Covid-19 pandemic. However, the Village Ways mission remains full steam ahead, committed to taking its empowering ethos to other parts of the country. This model of tourism—one that genuinely involves communities as partners, fostering collaboration rather than exploitation—offers profound benefits for both locals and travellers alike. In these times of global division and uncertainty, such initiatives, built on shared values and sustainable practices, are more vital and worthy of celebration than ever before.

The trip was provided by Village Ways, which creates bespoke itineraries tailored to travellers’ interests. The suggested 10-day Khali in Kumaon itinerary (available until 30 May, and from 15 September to 30 November 2026) costs from £1,315pp, based on a party of four, including transfers, rail travel, accommodation, and most meals.