‘Landscapes as wild as they get in Europe’: family hiking in Albania and Montenegro

This immersive encounter was just day two of a meticulously planned seven-day trip with Undiscovered Balkans, an adventure designed to crisscross between the rugged landscapes of Albania and Montenegro on foot and by car. Having long harbored a desire to hike a segment of the legendary Peaks of the Balkans trail – a monumental 119-mile (192km) long-distance trekking route that stitches together the mountainous borders of Montenegro, Kosovo, and Albania – I eagerly seized the opportunity to sample this innovative guided itinerary. The Peaks of the Balkans trail, inaugurated in 2013, is celebrated not only for its breathtaking scenery but also for its profound symbolic significance, fostering peace and cross-border cooperation in a region historically marked by conflict. This particular tour, however, offered a refreshing alternative to the well-trodden paths, ingeniously combining some of the region’s most famous and challenging hikes with gentler excursions specifically tailored for families and children. Activities such as a full day experiencing the ancient rhythms of a shepherd’s life, or visits to secluded, crystal-clear swimming spots, presented a novel and enriching alternative to our family’s usual "get a map and hope for the best" approach to hiking holidays. It promised an adventure that balanced physical challenge with authentic cultural immersion, a journey designed to be both inspiring and accessible for all ages.

The journey began in Podgorica, Montenegro’s unassuming capital, a city often overlooked but serving as a vital gateway to the country’s dramatic northern mountains. Here, we were introduced to our expedition team: Aurora, one of a pioneering handful of female Albanian mountain guides, whose presence spoke volumes about the changing dynamics and opportunities in the region’s burgeoning tourism sector; Emma, a co-founder of Undiscovered Balkans, whose vision had shaped this unique itinerary; and her daughter and friend, who joined us for the initial leg of the trip, adding to the convivial atmosphere. Before any of us could articulate a complaint about the scorching summer heat, which was already edging towards the high 30s Celsius, we were whisked away in a comfortable minibus. Our first stop was a popular local swimming spot on the Cemi River, a refreshing oasis where we could cool off in its invigorating waters, observing local families enjoying their leisure time. From there, we crossed the border into Albania, leaving behind the bustling lowlands for the cooler, winding mountain roads that ascended towards the remote and picturesque village of Lëpushë. The transition was palpable, a journey from the everyday into a realm of serene natural beauty and traditional life.

In Lëpushë, nestled amidst a verdant tapestry of orchards, buzzing beehives, and meticulously terraced fields, we found our haven at Bujtina Lëpushë guesthouse for two nights. The village, a jewel in the Albanian Alps, captivated us with its dense, ancient forests and the dramatic, serrated limestone peaks that pierced the sky beyond. It was here that Emma, with a knowing smile, remarked, "You’ll realize how quiet this is when you get on the main Peaks of the Balkans trail." Her comment highlighted a crucial aspect of Undiscovered Balkans’ philosophy: promoting sustainable tourism that benefits local communities while preserving the natural environment. The main Peaks of the Balkans trail, while magnificent, now receives upwards of 40,000 visitors annually, leading to concerns about overcrowding and ecological strain in certain areas. By introducing itineraries that venture slightly off the most heavily trodden routes, tour operators like Undiscovered Balkans help "spread the love," dispersing tourist traffic and, crucially, providing an economic lifeline to less visited villages like Lëpushë, ensuring that the benefits of tourism are shared more broadly across the region. This approach fosters a more authentic and less impactful experience for travelers, contributing directly to the livelihoods of local families and the preservation of their traditional way of life.

Our day playing Uno under the tin roof, a serendipitous consequence of the sudden storm, became our first deep immersion into Albania’s easy-going hospitality and millennia-old rural routines. This particular day trip from Lëpushë to the stan was meticulously organized by Nina, the driving force behind The Shepherd’s Way, a pioneering community tourism project. Nina’s initiative is dedicated to helping Malésorë (highlander) shepherds – the traditional guardians of these mountains – earn supplementary income by sharing their unique way of life with visitors, all while ensuring these experiences are offered on terms that respect their culture and daily rhythms. As we walked towards the stan from our guesthouse, with swifts darting gracefully overhead, Nina explained the profound significance of the shepherds’ practices. "The ancient practice of transhumance," she elaborated, referring to the seasonal movement of livestock to higher pastures in summer, "still carried out by 12 families here, was recently awarded UNESCO World Heritage status." This recognition underscores the practice’s deep cultural roots and its importance as a living tradition. Nina, originally a photographer who documented these communities, felt a strong compulsion to act. "While working on that project, I felt compelled to do something to support this precious culture," she recounted, "and so now I work with the families to offer experiences on their terms." Her project not only generates vital income but also fosters a sense of pride and continuity for these highlander communities, allowing them to sustain their ancestral heritage in the face of modernization.

The abrupt change in weather, with the hail and thunder intensifying, soon scuppered the initial plan to spend the day actively herding and milking sheep. Yet, this unforeseen disruption unexpectedly deepened our cultural immersion. Instead of merely observing, we became part of the shepherd family’s daily routine, albeit an adapted one. Hours drifted by in a haze of simple, profound activities: learning the art of baking traditional bread over an open fire, the scent of fresh dough mingling with the earthy smell of the stan; engaging in more rounds of Uno, the competitive spirit transcending linguistic barriers; participating in good-natured arm-wrestling contests, where the boys discovered the surprising strength of their young hosts; and sipping on aromatic mountain tea, a comforting ritual that warmed us from the inside. Aurora, our insightful guide, noticed our initial, slight discomfort with the enforced idleness, a stark contrast to the fast pace of modern life. She gently explained, "Boredom is a big part of shepherd life." Her words offered a philosophical insight into the rhythm of rural existence, where patience, observation, and simple companionship are cherished. By the end of the day, as the storm finally broke, and the sun’s golden rays pierced through the clouds, illuminating fields teeming with butterflies, the boys rushed out to play football, their energy renewed. We realized then that this "communal boredom," far from being a negative, was probably the most authentic and enriching cultural immersion we could have found, fostering a genuine connection forged in shared experience rather than planned activity.

The next day brought our first significant hike of the trip, a journey that led us along a deserted footpath from Lëpushë. The trail wound its way through dappled beech forests, whose ancient trees whispered tales of the mountains, before opening onto vast, sweeping plains dotted with wildflowers. Our destination was the 1,859-meter summit of Maja e Vajushës (known as Volušnica in Montenegrin). As we reached the peak, Aurora announced, with a sweep of her arm, "And that’s Montenegro – we’ll be sleeping down there tonight." Below us, a vast sea of mist stretched out, pierced only by the eerie, graceful flight of a flock of choughs, adding a mystical quality to the landscape. While it was supposedly a spectacular vista on a clear day, the mist offered its own dramatic beauty. This was the second of our five border crossings, and the concept of traversing national boundaries on foot, through such wild terrain, took a while for the children to fully grasp. Aurora patiently explained that the border itself was defined by the majestic spine of the Accursed Mountains, a natural barrier that we were following. Having raced up with youthful enthusiasm, we took our time meandering back down, allowing for spontaneous discoveries. We picked handfuls of sweet wild blueberries, stopped for a taste of freshly made, creamy yogurt at another remote stan, and purchased jars of golden honey from a village hive cooperative along the way, each interaction deepening our appreciation for the local bounty and its custodians.

Following our invigorating hike, a scenic 40-minute drive from Lëpushë transported us further into the heart of this trans-Balkan adventure. En route, we made a crucial stop at Kanioni i Bashkimit canyon, a brilliant blue, refreshing swimming spot that offered a welcome respite from the day’s exertions. Its pristine waters, carved by centuries of flow, were a natural tonic. From there, we re-entered Montenegro, making our way to Eko Katun Rosi, a charming cabin camp nestled in the village of Vusanje. The presence of numerous hiking groups from across Europe immediately signaled that we had rejoined the main Peaks of the Balkans trail, a hub for international trekkers. The surrounding landscape, dominated by soaring, jagged peaks, reinforced this sense of being in a premier hiking destination, as did the generous portion sizes of the meals – a testament to the hearty, sustaining fare needed by hikers, with no shortage of delicious meat and cheese in these parts. As we traveled, a subtle yet significant cultural shift became apparent: the distant call to prayer, the adhan, had replaced the familiar chiming of church bells. Aurora, ever the insightful guide, explained the region’s complex religious tapestry: "It’ll be churches tomorrow and mosques the day after." She elaborated on how even religion here was dictated by geography and history, with Christianity having often survived in the deep, isolated valleys that the Ottoman Empire’s reach could not fully penetrate, creating a mosaic of faiths that coexist within the same dramatic landscape.

The next morning, after a hearty breakfast, we embarked on a drive around small, traditional farms, leading us to the entrance of Prokletije National Park. This protected area, a marvel of biodiversity and geological grandeur, is a sanctuary for numerous plant and animal species, including rare raptors and brown bears. From here, we commenced what would be the longest and steepest hike of our trip: a challenging 10-mile trek over the border at Qafa e Pejës pass and into the iconic Theth valley, often considered the very heart of the Peaks of the Balkans trail. We were profoundly grateful for Aurora’s careful pacing, her experience guiding us through the diverse terrain. The lower slopes treated us to vibrant meadows teeming with butterflies and the incessant chirping of crickets, a symphony of summer life. These gradually gave way to a steep, winding hairpin path that demanded steady effort and focus. At the top of the pass, we found shelter behind an abandoned gun post, a relic of a bygone era, to enjoy a well-deserved picnic lunch, literally straddling the border between two nations. With an estimated six gun posts for every square kilometer of land in Albania, these stark structures offered frequent opportunities to delve into Aurora’s personal stories and historical insights about life under communism. Her tales of resilience, such as hiding goats underground to ensure enough milk for the family during times of scarcity, provided a powerful human context to the austere landscape, effectively keeping any nascent moans about sore legs at bay.

The descent into the sprawling village of Theth felt like entering a different world. The upper slopes were characterized by hot pine forests that tumbled down steep, yellow cliff faces, their needles perfuming the air. Lizards darted with lightning speed between fallen rocks, while cool, shaded caves offered welcome stops for water and rest. In the valley below, dry riverbeds carved ashen-grey scars across the dense forest, stretching as far as the eye could see, a testament to the powerful forces of nature that shape this land. Exhausted but exhilarated, we eventually reached the valley floor and, in true spontaneous Albanian fashion, hitched a lift to our bed for the night from the first welcoming café we encountered. As we drove past Theth’s rapidly sprawling bars, camps, and lodges, some of which bore the scars of recent government clampdowns on unofficial development – a visible sign of the challenges inherent in balancing tourism growth with conservation – we were particularly grateful to spend the night in a quieter hamlet just above the main town. Marash Rrgalla guesthouse, a truly authentic experience, was a 200-year-old working kulla (a traditional fortified Albanian farmhouse, often built for defense and communal living) that had been lovingly converted. It boasted five comfortable rooms, a bucolic garden filled with the sounds of nature, and a friendly cat named Sweetie. The boys, instantly at home, ran off to meet the resident pigs and the family cow, embracing the farm life. In true Albanian style, it wasn’t long before we were enjoying a homegrown, homemade feast, a celebration of local produce and hospitality, as the sun dipped below the horizon, painting the majestic Albanian Alps in glorious shades of pink.

After a much-needed day off the trails, dedicated to pure relaxation and aquatic adventure, we explored Theth’s renowned swimming spots. The Nderlysë pools, a series of natural basins carved into limestone, offered cascading waterfalls and refreshingly cool waters. Further afield, the legendary Blue Eye of Kaprre, a stunning karstic spring with an astonishingly vibrant sapphire hue, captivated us all. "Finally, we get a day to swim!" the 10-year-old exclaimed, his joy palpable, a clear indicator that the blend of hiking and leisure was hitting just the right note. Recharged and refreshed, we embarked on the iconic hike from Theth to Valbona, a route that is arguably the most famous segment of the Peaks of the Balkans trail. Unlike our previous, more secluded hikes, this path was packed with people from all over the world – a vibrant international community of trekkers. The day was peppered with friendly passing chats, a testament to the camaraderie of the trail. "Wow, so young! Well done, boys!" an American hiker hollered with genuine admiration as we reached the narrow top of the 1,800m Qafa e Valbonës pass. With no other children in sight on this demanding route, the boys were rightfully chuffed by the recognition. They celebrated their accomplishment with a well-deserved plate of chips – their first of the holiday – once we had completed the dusty and hot descent into the sprawling valley of Valbona.

From Valbona, our journey transitioned from intensive trekking to a more relaxed pace of travel, spending the next two days journeying by car and ferry towards our final destination, the historic city of Shkodër. While there were still pockets of breathtaking nature and profound peace to be found, including a truly spectacular ferry trip down the steep-sided Komani Lake – often compared to the Norwegian fjords for its dramatic, submerged river canyons – and a tranquil stand-up paddleboarding experience with egrets and kingfishers on the serene Lake Shkodër, guided by Drini Times, we soon found ourselves longing for the wild embrace of the mountains. Although we were grateful for the familiar holiday staples available in Shkodër – the ubiquitous ice-creams, crispy chips, and fizzy Fanta – the sight of ubiquitous building sites, ongoing roadworks, and scattered litter brought home the fast pace of change and development in a country rapidly on the move. Albania, having emerged from decades of self-imposed isolation under communism, is now eagerly embracing modernity and the opportunities that come with it. This stark contrast between the pristine mountain wilderness and the developing urban landscape made our time immersed in the mountains, surrounded by centuries-old traditions and landscapes as wild and untouched as they get in Europe, feel like an enormous privilege. This was especially true with the children in tow, as they witnessed firsthand the enduring power of nature and the resilience of traditional cultures, an education far richer than any classroom could provide.

Undiscovered Balkans’ seven-day Albania and Montenegro family hiking trip costs from £1,195pp, with departures on any Sunday in June, July or August.