Simpson’s #2: A Gastronomic and Mixological Journey Through London’s Storied Past

Stepping into Simpson’s #2 is akin to opening a time capsule, a meticulously curated journey that evokes the grandeur and convivial spirit of a bygone London. While the author may not have personally savored a meal at the original Simpson’s, the palpable atmosphere and expertly crafted libations at its successor, under the stewardship of Jeremy King, create a profound sense of familiarity, a feeling of having experienced its legendary charm firsthand. The air itself seems imbued with the echoes of generations past, a place where the simple pleasure of roast beef and "A Chat" was a cherished ritual. This sentiment is powerfully amplified by the restaurant’s deliberate embrace of British nostalgia, a theme that resonates through every element, from the classic prawn cocktail and the comforting embrace of spotted dick to the majestic, generously portioned Yorkshire puddings. The presence of servers in traditional toques further solidifies this immersive experience, and the clientele, like the esteemed Dame Joan Collins spotted at a recent dinner, are a testament to the enduring allure of this iconic establishment.

The cocktail menu at Simpson’s #2 is not merely a list of drinks; it’s an invitation to relive an era when the day unfolded at a more leisurely pace, where a midday aperitif was the prelude to an extended lunch, a sophisticated dance between claret and brandy that could easily consume an entire afternoon. This sentiment is elegantly captured by the establishment’s dual bar concept, each offering a distinct yet complementary interpretation of classic mixology. Downstairs, Nellie’s Tavern pulsates with the energy of a "late night" cocktail lounge, its ambiance thoughtfully designed to echo the vibrant theatrical heritage of its surrounding district. The decor is playful and engaging, hinting at the clandestine rendezvous and jubilant post-show celebrations that have long defined London’s West End.

In stark contrast, the first-floor Simpson’s Bar presents a more refined and polished experience. Its crisp, Art Deco-inspired design is a visual delight, featuring intricate marquetry sunbursts and plush brown leather banquettes that exude an air of timeless elegance. Here, white-jacketed bartenders move with practiced grace, their movements a silent ballet as they craft drinks for eager patrons, the air subtly perfumed with the sophisticated notes of Chanel No. 5 and the enduring scent of Elnette hairspray – olfactory signatures of a certain era’s glamour. It is within this sophisticated setting that the author found the most profound excitement, discovering a cocktail list that is not only delightfully fun but also a testament to a team deeply knowledgeable about the rich history of cocktail creation.

The bar’s thoughtful approach to its offerings begins with the "Sharpeners," a series of half-sized, aperitif-style cocktails cleverly themed around chess. This unique nod to Simpson’s historical significance as a mid-19th-century hub for British chess enthusiasts adds a layer of intellectual charm to the experience. A "Book Move," for instance, featuring dry Riesling, Campari, and red vermouth, serves as an ideal gentle introduction, preparing the palate for the more complex libations to follow. The chess theme extends beyond mere naming, suggesting a strategic and considered approach to flavor profiles and their development. The subtle allusions to strategy and foresight in chess are mirrored in the careful construction of each drink, inviting patrons to engage with the menu on a deeper level.

The menu then gracefully transitions to a trio of Martinis, available in both half- and full-size servings. These are not your average Martinis; they are delivered with an almost surgical precision, served in exquisitely chilled cocktail glasses designed by the renowned Giorgio Bargiani, a luminary from The Bar at The Connaught. Among these meticulously prepared classics, the "Turf Club" Martini stands out as a particular delight. This obscure twist on the classic is named after the late 19th-century gambling clubs, or "Turf Clubs," where such a drink is believed to have originated. Its recipe is a wonderfully baroque masterpiece, a testament to the elaborate flavor combinations favored in that era. The drink artfully layers a juniper-forward Sipsmith VJOP gin with dry vermouth, further enriched by subtle dashes of maraschino liqueur, orange bitters, and a whisper of absinthe. The result is a complex and deeply satisfying cocktail that truly hits the mark. The author’s companion, opting for a No. 3 gin Martini with Sacred Dry Vermouth and a dry sherry rinse, also found their choice to be exceptionally well-executed, further underscoring the bar’s mastery of the Martini. The very act of ordering a Martini at Simpson’s #2 becomes an education in its historical evolution, from its nascent origins to its more elaborate permutations.

Simpson’s #2 also champions the revival of the "Cobbler," a once wildly popular 19th-century recipe that has largely faded from contemporary bar menus. This drink, characterized by its generous serving of fortified wines or spirits mixed with sugar and fruit, was traditionally served over substantial mounds – or "cobbles" – of crushed ice. It is widely claimed that the Cobbler was instrumental in popularizing the drinking straw, a testament to its innovation for its time. The Simpson’s rendition is a vibrant and flavorful interpretation, expertly crafted with a base of cognac and sherry, enhanced by the tropical sweetness of pineapple and triple sec, and finished with a judicious dash of Angostura bitters. This historical revival speaks to a broader trend in contemporary mixology: the rediscovery and reinterpretation of forgotten classics, breathing new life into them for a modern audience.

Venturing even further back in time, the "Regent’s Punch" offers a captivating glimpse into the Regency era, a period when punches were the undisputed reigning monarchs of the beverage world. This elaborate concoction masterfully blends pineapple rum with sherry, bright lime juice, sweet orgeat, and a judicious splash of sparkling Saicho jasmine tea. Presented in a tall, slender glass, crowned with a single, fragrant jasmine blossom, this punch is a symphony of fresh, fruity flavors, culminating in a delicate and refreshingly dry finish. The choice of ingredients evokes the exoticism and adventurous spirit of the Regency period, a time of burgeoning global trade and burgeoning culinary exploration. The use of Saicho jasmine tea, a modern artisanal ingredient, cleverly bridges the gap between historical inspiration and contemporary taste, demonstrating a thoughtful evolution of classic concepts.

Notably absent from this thoughtfully curated menu are the ubiquitous Margaritas, a deliberate choice that underscores the bar’s commitment to its distinct historical narrative. However, discerning patrons seeking alternatives will find a wealth of creative and satisfying options. Among these are a tequila-based interpretation of the Rickey, a late 19th-century highball celebrated for its simplicity, typically featuring hard liquor, lime, and sparkling water. Another intriguing option is the "Infante," a drink that can be described as a Margarita variant, but instead of triple sec, it incorporates the sweet, nutty notes of orgeat. These alternatives demonstrate a nuanced understanding of cocktail families and their variations, offering familiar flavor profiles through a historically informed lens. The absence of the Margarita, while surprising to some, allows the menu to maintain its unique identity and focus on less commonly explored historical drinks.

The digestif selection at Simpson’s #2 is equally impressive, offering a refined collection of brandies and whiskies sourced from around the globe. A particularly noteworthy mention is the Sazerac, prepared with the distinguished Hennessy XO, Michter’s Rye, absinthe, and Peychaud’s bitters. Served with the purist’s dedication – without ice or garnish, acknowledging its medicinal origins – this Sazerac is a profoundly satisfying conclusion to a meal. The emphasis on classic digestifs reinforces the establishment’s dedication to traditional drinking rituals and the appreciation of fine spirits. The meticulous preparation of the Sazerac, adhering to its historical serving method, is a subtle yet powerful statement about the bar’s respect for cocktail heritage.

In a delightful turn of events, it was the mint-green Grasshopper that ultimately captured the author’s preference. This creamy, New Orleans classic, enjoyed after dinner, provided an experience akin to imbibing liquid After Eights, a decadent and ethereal sensation that perfectly capped off the evening. The Grasshopper, with its rich chocolate and mint flavors, offers a comforting and indulgent conclusion, a sweet counterpoint to the more complex and spirit-forward drinks experienced earlier. Its selection as a highlight underscores the bar’s ability to cater to a range of palates and preferences, even within its historically focused framework.

Jeremy King, the visionary behind Simpson’s #2, articulates the establishment’s philosophy with clarity and passion: "I’ve never thought Simpson’s should feel like a museum," he states, "but there is real pleasure in revisiting the sort of drinks that would have been at home here in earlier eras." This sentiment encapsulates the essence of Simpson’s #2 – it is not a static monument to the past, but a dynamic and vibrant space that breathes new life into historical traditions. The carefully curated cocktail list is a testament to this vision, offering a journey that seamlessly navigates from the first aperitif at lunchtime through to the final digestif at the end of dinner. The bar achieves a remarkable feat: it honors its heritage without being bound by it, creating an experience that is both deeply nostalgic and wonderfully contemporary, a true celebration of London’s enduring culinary and mixological legacy. The success of Simpson’s #2 lies in its ability to evoke a sense of timelessness, proving that well-crafted drinks and exceptional hospitality are indeed timeless virtues.