‘We are not like the rest of Andalucía’: the rugged charms of Almería, Spain’s desert city

Brenan, with his unconventional lifestyle and deep immersion in Spanish culture, was undoubtedly a unique figure in Almería’s landscape a hundred years ago. Today, while Spain’s southern coast teems with international visitors, Almería remarkably retains its status as a largely undiscovered jewel, a stark contrast to its bustling neighbour, Málaga, merely a couple of hours westward along the coast. The similarities between these two ancient port cities are striking: both boast beguiling tree-lined avenues, inviting beaches, majestic Moorish fortresses, and imposing 16th-century cathedrals. Yet, Almería has steadfastly remained beneath the radar of mass tourism, while Málaga grapples with the escalating challenges of overtourism, a consequence of its dramatic transformation into a global tourist hotspot. Almería, in its current state, offers a poignant echo of the Málaga that existed before its extensive 1990s makeover, a period when significant investment and a comprehensive overhaul of its waterfront reshaped its once-gritty reputation into a sleek, albeit sometimes criticised, commercial and leisure hub.

Almería’s distinct character is deeply rooted in its geographical isolation and unique environment. Situated approximately 120 miles east along the coast, it occupies Spain’s often-overlooked and historically less affluent southeastern corner. This region is home to Europe’s only desert, the Tabernas Desert, making Almería feel like a true outpost on the edge of the continent, geographically and culturally closer to Morocco than to Madrid. This palpable sense of remoteness has historically meant being "far away from the action — and the funding," contributing to its preserved authenticity. However, this may soon change. A new high-speed rail service (AVE) from Madrid, anticipated by 2027, promises to drastically cut travel times, while ambitious plans for dock development over the next few years, designed to accommodate luxury cruise ships and incorporate extensive green spaces, signal a potential shift. These developments pose a critical question: will Almería retain its cherished status as the "rough diamond of Andalucía," or will it succumb to the pressures of mainstream tourism?

For the moment, Almería steadfastly remains a living, breathing port city, devoid of pretension. Its charm lies in the unvarnished juxtaposition of ornate, gently crumbling townhouses alongside faded mid-century shopfronts. The air, thick with the tang of diesel and fresh fish, is a constant reminder that its waterfront is, first and foremost, a place of industry and commerce. Unlike Málaga’s transformed port, which now serves as a prime destination for superyacht spotting and high-end leisure, Almería’s docks maintain their utilitarian purpose as a vital ferry terminal connecting Spain with Algeria and Morocco. This functional role fosters a vibrant cultural interchange, making the city’s border feel remarkably porous. The nearby streets, particularly around the port, seamlessly blend into an extension of North Africa, with shop signs in Arabic advertising ferry tickets, stores offering intricate Moroccan tea glasses, and groups of African fishers diligently mending their nets, underscoring a deep-seated cross-cultural connection.

Beyond the immediate urban fabric, Almería’s culinary scene offers authentic delights. For those willing to venture slightly out of the city centre, past a landscape of sun-bleached concrete warehouses and truck parks, a gastronomic reward awaits at Bar 900 Millas. This genuine hideaway, inconspicuously tucked between loading bays, is renowned for its sumptuous seafood feasts, sourced directly from the adjacent fish market. It offers a truly local experience, whether joining the fishermen for an early 4 am breakfast or witnessing the Almeríenses, dressed to the nines, gather for their revered Sunday lunch. In the heart of the city, the serene Hotel Catedral, a majestic 19th-century palatial house on the pedestrianised Plaza de la Catedral, offers a luxurious retreat. Its rooftop bar provides unparalleled close-up views of the cathedral’s intricate architecture and a panoramic sweep across to the partly restored Alcazaba, which glows under a nightly illumination, casting a golden light over the city.

The Alcazaba, a monumental fortress, is a constant, benevolent presence, looming majestically over every corner of Almería. Under the crisp, clean Mediterranean sunlight, its ancient cool stone walls, interspersed with the verdant hues of cypress and palm trees, and its meticulously designed gardens with flowing water channels, create an oasis of rosemary-scented tranquillity. For anyone who has experienced the regimented, time-slotted tours of Granada’s Alhambra, a morning spent at Almería’s Alcazaba offers a profoundly liberating antidote. Entry is free for European citizens (including Britons), allowing visitors the freedom to explore at their own pace, to truly absorb the spectacular 360-degree views stretching from the arid mountains in the hinterland to the glittering expanse of the sea, and down into the narrow, winding streets of La Chanca, the city’s historic Arab quarter.

La Chanca plays a pivotal role in Almería’s unique identity. Historically home to Gypsy communities and fishing families, it is a fascinating jumble of brightly painted cave homes and tiny, irregular houses, tumbling down the hillside towards the docks. This district, by turns rough-hewn and romantically evocative, served as a potent source of inspiration for the Movimiento Indaliano, an avant-garde artistic and cultural collective that emerged in Almería after the Second World War. This movement, seeking to rediscover and celebrate Andalusian roots and a "Mediterranean universalism," found its muse in the raw authenticity and vibrant life of La Chanca. A permanent collection of their captivating paintings, many depicting scenes and people from La Chanca, is displayed at the Doña Pakyta art gallery in the city centre, offering a compelling window into mid-century Almería and its artistic soul.

The vibrant social life of Almería is another defining characteristic. Near the Alcazaba, the Moroccan cafe Teteria Almedina offers a sensory escape with hot mint tea and chilled mint lemonade served on a lush, verdant terrace. The old town, meanwhile, is a labyrinth of tapas bars, each typically bustling with locals. Casa Puga, one of Almería’s oldest and most revered tapas bars, often requires considerable effort just to squeeze through its doors, let alone secure a seat. Almería, boasting one of Europe’s sunniest climates, rigorously adheres to a four-hour siesta, almost a religious observance where productivity ceases in the afternoon, and dedicates its weekends entirely to socialising. Wandering from one boisterous plaza to another, one cannot help but feel a touch of envy for this fierce dedication to leisure and community, a pleasing sensation that the analogue ways of the 20th century still hold significant sway here.

José Antonio González Pérez of the local tourist office articulates this sentiment, describing Almería, both the city and the province, as an "outlier," not just geographically but also spiritually. "We are not like the rest of Andalucía. We have our own dialect, our own cuisine. But for a long time, we have been forgotten," he states. This profound spirit of independence is tangibly reflected in the fierce pride Almeríenses take in their cultural heritage. The fascinating Guitar Museum celebrates the legacy of Antonio de Torres Jurado, born and died in the city, widely revered as the father of the modern classical guitar for his revolutionary contributions to its design, including the enlargement of the body and the innovative fan bracing system. The Cinema Museum and a dedicated walking trail illuminate the city’s rich cinematic history, showcasing locations where countless films have been shot in the city and the surrounding desert, including iconic Spaghetti Westerns by Sergio Leone, Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, and Lawrence of Arabia. The city even boasts a Russ Meyer-inspired bar, La Mala, discreetly tucked away down a side alley, a nod to its edgy film heritage.

For a city of its size, Almería’s nightlife and creative pulse are remarkably strong. The perpetually busy Picasso bookshop stands as a cultural institution, hosting a packed diary of author events. Paseo79 offers an accessible platform for local artists to sell their affordable works, fostering a burgeoning art scene. Meanwhile, the local music collective Clasijazz has profoundly impacted hundreds of lives through its grassroots conservatoire, dedicated to nurturing young musicians, organising vibrant jam sessions, and staging diverse gigs, establishing itself as a vital force in the city’s cultural landscape.

While Almería city proudly features its own two-mile urban beach, it also serves as an ideal base for exploring the untamed beauty of this corner of Andalucía, particularly the Cabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park. This sprawling 180-square-mile wilderness, designated a UNESCO Geopark, is Europe’s only desert, a landscape of volcanic origins, responsible for its frequent portrayal as the American West in countless films. Its pristine beaches remain unspoiled by rampant development, punctuated only by a scattering of tiny, whitewashed villages nestled in picturesque coves. Swaying palm trees and vibrant bursts of red, pink, and purple bougainvillaea mirror the evocative coastline of North Africa, visible across the sparkling waters. Inland, the Sierra Alhamilla mountain range and the ancient Moorish village of Níjar in its foothills, renowned for its traditional handicrafts, including glazed ceramics and jarapas (Andalucían woven rugs), offer further cultural and scenic delights.

Gerald Brenan’s initial impression of Almería as "a bucket of whitewash thrown down at the foot of a bare, greyish mountain. A small oasis…" was merely the beginning of his fascination. He had intended a brief sojourn to buy furniture before returning to Granada, but a delay in wired funds led him into an unexpected entanglement with a local rogue, drawing him into the city’s vibrant, if somewhat rough-and-tumble, "fleshpots and seafarers’ drinking dens." This immersion clearly left an indelible mark, as he was repeatedly drawn back to Almería over the years, describing it as a "poetic" city imbued with a "lost," "forgotten" atmosphere. He confessed it stirred an excitement in him that no other Spanish city had managed to evoke. As someone who has spent many years exploring the diverse landscapes and cultures of Spain, I can unequivocally say that I understand precisely what he meant. Almería remains a rare, authentic Spanish experience, poised on the brink of change, making now the opportune moment to discover its enduring magic.

For more information, visit turismodealmeria.org.