The return of France’s train of marvels: from the Côte d’Azur to the Southern French Alps

The Train des Merveilles, or "Train of Wonders," had, by last December, triumphantly returned to full service following an intensive year-long programme of major works. These crucial renovations, necessitated by severe weather events including Storm Alex in 2020 which caused widespread damage to infrastructure in the Roya Valley, underscored the immense engineering challenge of maintaining such a lifeline. Its reopening was a significant moment for the region, restoring a vital link that had long been cherished as one of Europe’s most spectacular train routes. This remarkable two-hour expedition covers approximately 100 kilometres, yet in that relatively short distance, it ascends an astonishing 1,000 metres, linking the cosmopolitan city of Nice with the ancient, medieval stronghold of Tende. Tende itself is nestled dramatically amidst the soaring peaks that mark the boundary of the awe-inspiring Mercantour National Park, a protected wilderness renowned for its biodiversity and prehistoric rock art.

Barely ten minutes after departing Nice-Ville, the urban sprawl of the French Riviera began to yield to a gentler, more pastoral landscape. Low, rolling hills emerged, dotted with charming auburn-roofed villas, their terracotta tiles gleaming in the morning sun, interspersed with copses of ancient chestnut trees. As the gradient steepened and the true ascent commenced, the monumental task of constructing and maintaining this railway line, first envisioned and begun in 1883, became strikingly evident. The track is an astonishing testament to 19th-century engineering prowess, a intricate ribbon meticulously stitched together through an unforgiving topography. Over one hundred bridges and towering viaducts span deep ravines and rushing rivers, while almost as many tunnels and formidable retaining walls carve pathways directly through solid rock, protecting the line from the mountain’s raw power. Among the most ingenious features are the helical loop tunnels, a series of spiralling passages that allow the train to gain significant altitude by effectively circling upwards within the mountain itself, a feat of design that feels almost magical. This intricate network of infrastructure isn’t just functional; it’s a dramatic dance with nature, transforming what would be an impassable barrier into a navigable route.

The ride quickly became breathtaking, the initial low hills gradually gaining height and heft, transforming into a formidable mountainscape that unfolded before our eyes. Jagged, snow-capped (depending on the season) peaks scraped the sky, their craggy faces etched with millennia of geological history. The valley road below, once a prominent feature, dwindled to little more than a thin, winding sliver of ribbon, a stark visual reminder of the considerable elevation we were gaining. The air grew crisper, the scent of pine replacing the faint salty tang of the coast, and the whispers of the Mediterranean climate gave way to the bracing embrace of the Alps. This rapid transformation from coastal glamour to rugged wilderness is a hallmark of the Train des Merveilles, offering a sensory journey as profound as the physical one.

While many passengers opt to ride the train directly to Tende, using it as a springboard for extensive hikes into the surrounding Mercantour wilderness, we chose to punctuate our ascent with a series of stops, eager to peel back the layers of history and culture embedded in these mountain communities. Our first disembarkation was at Sospel, a captivating medieval town that felt instantly removed from the Riviera’s bustle. Here, the elegant, humpbacked 13th-century Pont-Vieux, a fortified toll bridge, gracefully straddles the shimmering Bévéra River, its ancient stones whispering tales of merchants and pilgrims. It was market day, and even in this relatively small mountain town, the central square buzzed with vibrant activity. Stalls overflowed with fragrant flowers, freshly picked vegetables, immense wheels of local artisanal cheese, and an irresistible array of delicious-looking breads, from rustic sourdoughs to delicate brioches. We strolled through the labyrinthine, quiet streets, admiring crumbling Baroque churches adorned with intricate frescoes and elegant Gothic-style houses, their weathered facades hinting at centuries of life. The contrast with Nice was profound; it was amazing to think we were barely an hour from the Côte d’Azur, yet it felt as though we had been transported to an entirely different, timeless region of France, a pocket of authentic Provençal-Alpine life.

The higher we climbed, the more pronounced this feeling of stepping back in time became. Our next stop, La Brigue, served as a literal gateway to the Mercantour National Park. Its tangle of medieval streets, paved with cobblestones worn smooth by generations of footsteps, felt as though they were only just stirring from a deep winter sleep. The town, while charmingly tranquil in the shoulder season, truly bursts into life during the summer months when hikers, drawn by the allure of the national park’s extensive trails, descend upon its ancient heart. La Brigue’s most celebrated claim to fame is the Chapel of Our Lady of Fountains (Notre-Dame des Fontaines), a cultural gem located a couple of miles outside the town, accessible via a pleasant walk or short drive. Named for the seven natural springs that famously trickle through the nearby rocks, parts of the church’s structure date back to the 13th century. Legend has it that local villagers constructed it as a profound sign of gratitude to the Virgin Mary after their prayers for a new, abundant water source for La Brigue were miraculously answered. While the chapel’s exterior facade is remarkably unassuming, almost rustic, its interior is nothing short of extraordinary. Its walls and ceiling are completely covered in a breathtaking cycle of 15th-century frescoes by the Piedmontese master Giovanni Canavesio. These vivid, intensely dramatic paintings, depicting scenes from the Passion of Christ and the Dance of Death, are so remarkably preserved and impactful that the church is often reverently referred to as the "Sistine Chapel of the Southern Alps," a testament to its artistic and spiritual significance.

By the time our train pulled into Tende, our final destination, we found ourselves at an altitude of approximately 800 metres above sea level. The houses of this ancient town clung tenaciously to the mountainside, creating a dramatic, vertical landscape. Around us, there was nothing but endless expanses of wooded slopes, ascending to high, rugged peaks, and a crisp, clear silence that was a balm to city-weary ears. Tende, historically a border town, has a unique cultural identity, a blend of French and Italian influences reflected in its architecture and cuisine. We followed the modern main street, which soon gave way to the clustered, charmingly labyrinthine medieval houses of the old town, winding our way upwards to the atmospheric ruins of Chateau Lascaris. This former stronghold of the powerful Lascaris family offered panoramic views that stretched majestically across the valley, extending all the way to the distant, imposing peaks of the Marguareis massif – the final mountain barrier before the Italian border. The ascent to the chateau ruins was quite a pull, a good workout for the legs, and afterwards, we rewarded ourselves handsomely at Stella Alpina. This delightful establishment was a fascinating hybrid: part outdoor equipment shop, catering to the numerous hikers and cyclists of the region, and part wonderfully rustic eatery. Around us, hearty-looking chaps in bright Lycra cycling tops were tucking into refreshing pints of lager and generous platters of local cheese and cured meats, a vibrant tableau of mountain life. Our mammoth croque monsieurs, oozing with melted cheese and ham, were the perfect fuel.

Much restored, we then dipped into the Musée des Merveilles, the "Museum of Wonders," in Tende. Here, through a combination of exhibits and our somewhat fractured French, we learned about the profound ancient history of the region. The area surrounding Tende is famously home to one of Europe’s largest and most significant Neolithic and Bronze Age rock-engraving sites, located primarily in the Vallée des Merveilles and around Mount Bégo. These thousands of prehistoric petroglyphs, etched into slate and granite rock faces, depict anthropomorphic figures, animals, tools, and abstract symbols, offering an invaluable window into the beliefs and daily lives of early human settlements dating back over 3,000 years. The town’s more recent, though still ancient, history is inextricably tied to the fabled Salt Road. This vital mule train route, active from the Middle Ages until the 18th century, connected the salt-producing regions of the Piedmontese Alps with the Ligurian coast, facilitating crucial trade. Tende, strategically positioned as the last major French stop-off along this arduous but economically vital trade route, developed into a significant hub. This historical context partly explains why a town of such considerable size and historical importance was established and thrived in such an isolated, mountainous location, far from the more fertile coastal plains.

The following morning saw us back in Nice, its vibrant Promenade des Anglais beckoning. However, the beauty of Nice lies not just in its own considerable charms, but in its unparalleled position as a gateway. With its excellent rail network, exploring the diverse wonders of the Côte d’Azur and its hinterland is remarkably effortless. We boarded a regional train and, just 40 minutes later, found ourselves strolling past gleaming yachts in the sophisticated marina of Antibes. From there, we walked along the impressive 16th-century ramparts, fortifications that once protected the town from invaders, now offering spectacular views of the Mediterranean. We paused to sit in the warm sunshine, watching colourful kitesurfers gracefully whisk across the bay, their sails a vibrant splash against the azure sea. For lunch, we sought out a charming restaurant on the bustling Place Nationale, where I savoured a plate of exquisitely crispy fritto misto – a delightful assortment of lightly fried seafood – while trying, with limited success, to ignore my husband’s enthusiastic consumption of buttery, garlicky snails. The following day, we made an even shorter hop, a mere ten-minute train ride east, to Beaulieu-sur-Mer. This elegant resort town absolutely oozes Belle Époque glamour, its streets lined with grand villas and stately hotels, testaments to a golden age when European royalty and aristocracy flocked to its shores. The Plage de la Petite Afrique, with its sheltered cove and tranquil waters, provided the perfect spot for a leisurely paddle, followed by a generously piled plate of fresh mussels, rich with cream and garlic, a quintessential Riviera culinary experience.

Food, inevitably, played a significant and memorable part in our time in Nice itself. While the old town, Vieux Nice, can feel quite touristy, we were fortunate enough to discover two absolute culinary gems that showcased the authentic flavours of Niçoise cuisine. A well-received recommendation led us to Acchiardo, a beloved institution on Rue Droite where the fourth generation of the Acchiardo family continues to serve up classic local dishes with unwavering authenticity. Here, we indulged in the rich, slow-cooked beef stew known as daube Niçoise, a hearty dish infused with red wine, vegetables, and herbs, and a perfectly seared duck breast complemented by a sweet and tangy fig sauce. Each dish was a testament to generations of culinary tradition. Our second discovery, Les Bar Des Oiseaux, was a happy accident. We simply stumbled across this classic bistro, captivated by its unique ambiance. Inside, the wood panelling was adorned with flawless, vibrant reproductions of artworks by a diverse array of masters, from the surrealism of Joan Miró to the abstract beauty of Paul Klee and the pop art boldness of Roy Lichtenstein, creating an unexpectedly chic and artistic dining space. My bourride, a traditional Provençal fish stew made with white fish, vegetables, and aïoli, was undoubtedly one of the most delicious things I have ever had the pleasure of eating – a truly unforgettable dish that perfectly encapsulated the fresh, Mediterranean essence of the region.

And that, ultimately, is the profound beauty of Nice. It is far more than just a destination in its own right, with its sun-drenched beaches, vibrant markets, and rich artistic heritage. It serves as an extraordinary gateway, a central hub from which to explore profoundly different worlds, all of them effortlessly accessible by a short, scenic train ride. The Train des Merveilles stands unarguably as the highlight of this diverse regional exploration; those extraordinary twists and turns, the ingenious engineering marvels, and the unfolding of a grandiose, wild, and largely untouched mountain scenery offer a stark and exhilarating contrast to the bustling, sophisticated streets of Nice. To pack all of these distinct experiences – the cultural immersion of medieval mountain towns, the artistic treasures of hidden chapels, the ancient mysteries of rock art, and the sophisticated coastal charm of Antibes and Beaulieu-sur-Mer – into one short trip is to make the very most of this diversely beautiful and endlessly captivating region. It is, without a doubt, a trip des merveilles indeed.

The trip was generously provided by Mama Shelter hotels and the Nice Côte d’Azur tourist board. Doubles at Mama Shelter Nice are available from £114 B&B. The Train des Merveilles operates daily from June to September, with an invaluable onboard guide providing commentary and insights on the 9:30 departure. For travellers looking to explore widely, a regional rail day pass, the Ter Zou!, which includes access to the Train des Merveilles route, is available for a very reasonable €20, offering exceptional value for discovering the many facets of this remarkable corner of France.