A Dorset Adventure: Blending Coastal Walks with a RIB Ride Through History

Many favour a circular walk, finding comfort in the known trajectory, but you can give a linear one new shape and an unforgettable dimension with the addition of a novel form of transport. Our recent journey along the dramatic Dorset coast perfectly exemplifies this innovative approach, transforming a conventional hike into an immersive historical and geographical odyssey. My wife Helen, our esteemed friend and local novelist Tom Cox, and I embarked on a unique expedition, beginning with an exhilarating water taxi ride – aboard a high-speed Rigid Inflatable Boat (RIB) – from the picturesque harbour of West Bay to the historic town of Lyme Regis. Our ambitious plan was then to trace our way back to our starting point on foot, covering a challenging yet rewarding ten miles of the iconic South West Coast Path.

As our sturdy RIB departed the sheltered confines of West Bay harbour, the lingering drizzle miraculously ceased, revealing a breathtaking panorama of the Jurassic Coast. To the east, the vast expanse of Chesil Beach unspooled, a formidable shingle barrier stretching for 18 miles, its unique geological formation a testament to millennia of coastal processes, leading the eye towards the low-lying Isle of Portland, a significant naval base and geological wonder. Westward, the charming silhouette of Lyme Regis beckoned, its ancient Cobb harbour wall a distinctive punctuation mark on the horizon. Further still, on the very edge of visibility, the rugged outline of Start Point on the Devon coast hinted at the greater sweep of the English Channel.

Our skipper, Nick, proved to be far more than just a boat operator; he was a true custodian of the sea and its stories. With a profound knowledge of the local marine environment and its rich history, he skillfully navigated the waters, periodically slowing the RIB to point out landmarks and recount tales of the shoreline’s past and the notoriously treacherous waters of Lyme Bay. This stretch of coast, beautiful as it is, holds a dark secret beneath its waves: a seabed studded with countless wrecks. These aren’t merely the unfortunate remnants of fishing vessels or the clandestine havens of smugglers’ ships, but also poignant memorials from the two devastating World Wars, silent witnesses to naval conflicts that shaped the 20th century.

One particularly chilling account brought the historical weight of these waters into sharp focus. On New Year’s Day, 1915, in the frigid depths of the First World War, the majestic Royal Navy battleship HMS Formidable was torpedoed by a German submarine, U-24, southwest of Start Point. Of its crew of 750, a mere 200 survived the freezing waters and the subsequent ordeal. The sinking sent shockwaves through Britain, a stark reminder of the U-boat threat in home waters, and remains one of the greatest naval losses in the English Channel.

Decades later, during the Second World War, the Dorset coast became a crucial mustering station for the Allied forces, a hive of activity in preparation for the monumental D-Day landings. It was here, in April 1944, that tragedy struck again during Exercise Tiger, a large-scale rehearsal for the Normandy landings. A surprise attack by German E-boats on American landing craft resulted in hundreds of American service personnel being killed – a catastrophic event later euphemistically referred to as the "Battle of Lyme Bay." The precise number of casualties remains debated, but estimates range from 749 to over 900, a greater loss of life than on Omaha Beach itself on D-Day. The wreck sites from this devastating incident are now designated war graves, serving as solemn reminders of the immense sacrifices made in the pursuit of freedom. Skipper Nick’s narratives transformed the sparkling sea into a living museum, each wave whispering tales of courage and loss.

Our dynamic journey concluded as we disembarked onto the Cobb at Lyme Regis, a legendary harbour wall that snakes unsteadily, yet resiliently, into the bay. This iconic structure is not merely a feat of engineering but a literary landmark, forever etched in the annals of English literature. It was famously immortalised by Jane Austen, who had the unfortunate Louisa Musgrove jump from its perilous heights in her novel Persuasion, a scene that underscores the precariousness of life and love in Georgian society. Austen herself was a visitor to Lyme Regis and drew inspiration from its distinctive charm. Generations later, the Cobb found new fame through John Fowles, who lived in Lyme and set much of his seminal work, The French Lieutenant’s Woman, in the town. The 1981 movie adaptation, starring Meryl Streep as the enigmatic Sarah Woodruff, features its most iconic scene on the Cobb, with Streep’s character sweeping across its ancient stones, her cloak hood concealing her face, a powerful image that captured the essence of mystery and longing. For the filming, many buildings in Lyme Regis were meticulously given a 19th-century facade, and in a whimsical twist fitting for a film that plays with the very concept of time, the town’s local bookshop famously retained its temporary period frontage for many years, a charming anachronism.

Our walk back to West Bay, a challenging 10-mile trek, began not along the immediate coastline, but by heading inland. The west Dorset coast, part of the UNESCO-designated Jurassic Coast World Heritage Site, is renowned for its "friable" geology – meaning its cliffs are prone to frequent, dramatic falls onto the beaches below. This constant geological dynamism means the coastal path is often subject to diversions. The path to Charmouth, for instance, necessitated a picturesque detour through a local golf course, a green oasis contrasting sharply with the wild, eroding cliffs. This wasn’t always the case; once, a coastal road known as Long Entry connected the two settlements, a vital artery before the sea reclaimed its territory. This ancient route holds its own intriguing historical anecdote: in 1725, a spirited 17-year-old Henry Fielding, the future celebrated novelist, famously attempted to abduct his cousin Sarah, with whom he was deeply infatuated, from Lyme. He made his audacious escape along Long Entry before being apprehended by her determined guardian. The incident, though unsuccessful, provides a fascinating glimpse into the fiery youth of a literary giant.

Our inland walk was punctuated by an unexpected and captivating discovery: a sculpture on the path itself. This striking artwork depicted the angular, determined shape of a woman, a hammer outstretched in her right hand, her other hand holding aloft the intricate skeleton of a prehistoric animal. This powerful piece, created by Greta Berlin, is a wilder, more elemental tribute to Mary Anning, perfectly suited to its sylvan woodland setting. There is another, more conventional, recent sculpture of Anning located in Lyme Regis town, both serving to record her immense importance to the field of palaeontology and to the town that was her home. This upland creature, however, resonates with the untamed spirit of the trailblazing fossil hunter. The representation of the fossil held aloft in Berlin’s sculpture is a specific nod to Anning’s groundbreaking discovery: Ichthyosaurus anningae.

Indeed, one cannot traverse this section of Dorset’s coast without an acute awareness of its ancient past and the fragile geology that lies so close to the surface. Our boat trip had begun on crumbly sandstone cliffs at West Bay, which gradually gave way to the fossil-rich clay and limestone formations as we travelled west towards Lyme. Mary Anning, a working-class woman in a male-dominated 19th-century scientific world, defied immense odds to become one of the most significant fossil hunters of all time. Her self-taught expertise and incredible finds, including the first complete Ichthyosaur skeleton, the first Plesiosaur, and the first Pterodactyl skeleton found outside Germany, revolutionized scientific understanding of prehistoric life and provided crucial evidence for evolution. Her legacy continues to inspire, reminding us of the profound secrets hidden within the earth beneath our feet.

Charmouth, our next waypoint, is a pretty village distinguished by its lack of a harbour, its shallow, sheltered waters making it a popular and safe haven for those learning to swim or paddleboard. This next section of the South West Coast Path, leading directly to West Bay, also coincides with the historic Monarch’s Way, a 625-mile long-distance footpath that traces the escape route taken by King Charles II in 1651 following his defeat at the Battle of Worcester during the English Civil War. While our day was undoubtedly more peaceful than the king’s desperate flight, the path itself proved to be anything but flat, demanding steep ascents and descents that tested our stamina.

We were immensely grateful for Tom’s company; his latest novel, Everything Will Swallow You, is deeply infused with the history and unique landscape of the Dorset coast, making him an ideal walking companion. His intimate knowledge of the area, combined with his vivid storytelling, truly enlivened our walk, bringing the very stones and trees to life. And, as any good walking companion knows, sustenance is key: we were particularly grateful for the delicious pasties he thoughtfully brought, lovingly baked by his wife, Ellie.

Continuing our journey, we passed the evocative remains of St Gabriel’s Church, a structure that fell into disuse in the 18th century. Its crumbling walls and secluded location, however, found a new, illicit purpose, providing useful shelter for smugglers and their contraband, adding another layer of intrigue to the landscape. Soon, we were ascending the magnificent Golden Cap, the highest point on the entire south coast of England, soaring 191 metres (627ft) above sea level. Formed of distinctive golden-coloured sandstone, it offers extraordinary, sweeping views across the entirety of Lyme Bay, a truly panoramic spectacle that rewards every step of the climb.

At Seatown, a charming hamlet nestled beneath the formidable cliffs, we paused at the venerable Anchor Inn for much-needed refreshments, a classic coastal pub offering respite and local cheer. Here, we were delighted to meet friends who had opted for a shorter, perhaps less arduous, walk, sharing stories of our respective journeys. From Thorncombe Beacon, another elevated vantage point offering stunning vistas, we began our descent towards Eype Mouth. The name ‘Eype’ itself is rooted in Old English, meaning "Steep Place," a perfectly accurate description of the dramatic topography. This secluded village holds a modern musical connection: its quiet church was famously chosen by the acclaimed musician PJ Harvey to record her Mercury prize-winning album, Let England Shake, an album rich with haunting echoes of war and English identity, its atmospheric recording location undoubtedly contributing to its profound resonance.

The final stretch to West Bay offered further stark reminders of the coast’s inherent fragility. Signs frequently referenced recent cliff falls, one notably in 2020, and the path itself was regularly redirected to safer, more inland routes, a continuous dance between human passage and nature’s relentless power. West Bay, our ultimate destination, emerged into view, a small stone town with its iconic golden sandstone cliffs flanking the harbour. It was once known as Bridport Harbour, serving as the bustling port from where the town of Bridport, famous for its rope-making industry, exported its vital products. Its name was later strategically changed to West Bay by the railway company in the 19th century, in a deliberate effort to attract burgeoning tourism. The railway itself is long gone, its tracks reclaimed by nature, but its legacy lives on: the old station building now charmingly hosts a restaurant housed within repurposed railway carriages. West Bay, with its tempting stalls offering classic fish and chips, its vibrant harbour activity, and its spectacular views back towards Lyme Regis, felt like a fitting and timeless place to conclude our extraordinary journey – a town out of time, yet perfectly attuned to the ebb and flow of coastal life.

For those inspired to undertake this unique blend of maritime adventure and coastal trekking, OS Explorer Map 116 (Lyme Regis & Bridport) comprehensively covers the entire walking route from Lyme Regis to West Bay. The thrilling Lyme Bay Water Taxi operates seasonally during the warmer summer months, offering the distinct advantage of the boat leg. Alternatively, a reliable year-round bus service (X53) runs between West Bay and Lyme Regis, providing a convenient option for a linear walk or return journey. This unforgettable experience was brought to life by Jon Woolcott, the author of Real Dorset and The Tattooed Hills, Journeys to Chalk Figures, whose deep connection to this magnificent coastline shines through in every step and every story.