Hungary’s Balaton Borbusz Unlocks the Undiscovered Wine Treasures of the ‘Hungarian Sea’

The journey itself begins as an evocative prelude to the past, a 90-minute train ride southwest from the vibrant heart of Budapest to the serene spa town of Balatonfüred. This passage is a visual symphony, a landscape unfurling from the industrial fringes of the capital into vast, painterly sweeps of golden sunflowers that track the sun, interspersed with fields of pale, swaying grain. The train carriage, a pleasingly retro relic, amplifies this sense of stepping back in time. Its thick velour upholstery, a tactile memory of bygone eras, invites comfort, while the windows, stubbornly opened with a stiff metal lever, offer a tangible connection to the passing scenery. A bushy-eyebrowed conductor, complete with his clanking ticket machine slung over his shoulder, completes the picture, a living embodiment of charming, unhurried travel.

Yet, this nostalgic overture is merely a prelude to the main act of retromania. Upon arrival at Balatonfüred station, a beacon of audacious green awaits: a 1984 DAF bus. This isn’t just any bus; it’s the 46° Balaton Borbusz, the ingenious vessel designed to navigate the hilly, vine-laced terrain. From its open-air rear platform, the panorama unfolds – the shimmering expanse of Lake Balaton, Central Europe’s largest freshwater lake, affectionately dubbed the "Hungarian Sea." This majestic body of water, a national treasure, stretches out, its tranquil surface reflecting the sky, hinting at the adventures that lie beyond its shores.

Balatonfüred, a distinguished spa resort town since the late 18th century, has long drawn visitors with its healing waters and picturesque setting. It’s a haven for sailing enthusiasts, a refreshing retreat for swimmers, and its northern hilly hinterland offers a rugged playground for mountain bikers and hikers. But beyond these established attractions lies a lesser-known treasure: hundreds of wineries, their vineyards carpeting the slopes overlooking the lake. For decades, these artisanal producers, many operating on a small, family scale, have remained largely inaccessible to the casual tourist, particularly those without a car. This logistical hurdle has historically limited the region’s potential as a wine tourism destination, a stark contrast to more globally renowned viticultural areas.

The launch of the hop-on, hop-off 46° Balaton Borbusz this summer has irrevocably altered this landscape, democratizing access to the region’s viticultural riches. This innovative service transports visitors on curated day trips to local vineyards, transforming what was once an exclusive pursuit into an inclusive and spontaneous adventure. The Borbusz is the brainchild of Virág Szabó, a visionary entrepreneur whose summers spent in the region since childhood instilled in her a deep appreciation for its latent potential. Her eureka moment arrived while traveling through South Africa, experiencing the vintage wine tram that meanders between Stellenbosch and Franschhoek. "I couldn’t believe that nobody had thought to do something similar here," she recounts, a testament to her keen observation and entrepreneurial spirit. The "46°" in the bus’s name is more than just a numerical identifier; it’s a geographical declaration, referencing the fact that the Balaton region shares its latitude with some of the world’s most prestigious wine regions, including Bordeaux, Burgundy, and the Rhône Valley, subtly underscoring its inherent viticultural promise.

Szabó’s journey to realize her vision was meticulous. She sourced the distinctive 1984 DAF bus from the Netherlands, restoring it to its former glory, its vibrant green paintwork a deliberate statement. By May of this year, her efforts had culminated in signing up 22 wineries across two distinct routes. One route was designed to introduce visitors to better-known, more established growers, while the other ventured into the more remote, often hidden gems. The initiative’s rapid success is evident: since its inception, seven more wineries have eagerly joined, with many others expressing keen interest. Szabó’s selection criteria are refreshingly straightforward yet profound: "Is the wine good? Are there nice views? And is the winery able to offer some form of hospitality?" This third criterion, in particular, highlights a significant shift. Many of these wineries are family-owned and run, traditionally focused solely on production, with little prior thought given to opening their doors to visitors.

This context is crucial for understanding the Borbusz’s significance. For decades, Hungarian wine, particularly outside of the internationally recognized Tokaj region, has struggled for global recognition. During the Soviet era, the emphasis was overwhelmingly on quantity over quality, driven by the demands of exporting to Eastern Bloc countries. This legacy, as Tamás Mórocz later explains, left Hungarian viticulture with a reputation for bulk production rather than artisanal excellence. Post-1989, a slow but steady renaissance began, with dedicated winemakers rediscovering indigenous grape varieties and investing in quality. However, even today, very little of Hungary’s wine is aggressively marketed on the international stage, and only around one-third is exported. Less still has it ever been positioned as a cornerstone of tourism, making initiatives like the Borbusz revolutionary in their approach to showcasing this rich, yet often overlooked, heritage.

The Borbusz operates with commendable flexibility, departing Balatonfüred approximately every two hours from 11 am, with the final drop-off at 9 pm. Guests are given the option to visit up to four wineries, choosing them either in advance or spontaneously en route. The system is designed for leisurely exploration; if two hours flash by and a visitor isn’t ready for the next pickup, they can simply request to be collected two hours later, ensuring a relaxed and unhurried experience. While tourism in Hungary is booming, with Budapest serving as the primary draw, the Borbusz actively seeks to lure visitors further afield, offering an alternative, more intimate insight into the country – and crucially, the chance to meet local people and engage with authentic Hungarian culture. Its early popularity has been remarkable; originally slated to run only until September, the service has been extended until mid-October, a clear indicator of its resounding success and the strong demand it has generated.

Our first stop is Mórocz Pince ("pince" being the Hungarian word for "cellar"), nestled at the end of a moderately steep, rocky path leading off the main road. The vineyard, beautifully situated, offers sweeping views of the lake. It is here we meet Tamás Mórocz, the founder, a former musician who, at just 38, has already been making wine for 15 years. His annual production, ranging between 4,000 and 5,000 bottles, focuses on specialties such as Traminer and Merlot Rosé. Mórocz passionately elaborates on the historical context: "During Soviet times, the emphasis was on quantity, for exporting to Eastern Bloc countries, rather than quality. Fortunately, that’s no longer the case." He represents a new generation of Hungarian winemakers, unburdened by past constraints and driven by a desire for quality and unique expression.

Mórocz’s approach to winemaking is distinctive. "I wanted to approach it differently," he explains, "in a way that was lighthearted, irreverent and down to earth." This philosophy permeates every aspect of his craft, notably his wine labels. Each vintage is given a different theme, turning every bottle into a piece of storytelling. The 2025 bottles, for instance, feature poignant photos from family albums of his grandfather, the man who first introduced him to the world of wine. "He died in 2012, so he doesn’t know he’s famous," Mórocz says with a warm smile, a touching tribute that adds layers of personal history to his wines. Seated on the terrace, surrounded by neat rows of vines sloping towards the vast expanse of Lake Balaton, we indulge in charcuterie platters and taste his exquisite wines. The atmosphere is less a formal tasting and more an intimate gathering of friends, sharing stories and laughter, with each sip confirming the delicious quality of his craft.

Our journey continues. Some members of the group alight at Balogh, another winery situated just down the hill from Mórocz. However, Virág Szabó’s enthusiastic recommendation of the charismatic owner of Gazdag Pince compels me to remain on the bus for another 15 minutes. The route winds through neatly combed vineyards and past charming, picturesque villages, each turn revealing more of the region’s idyllic beauty. Upon arrival, we are warmly greeted by Gábor Gazdag, a man whose approach to winemaking is as unconventional as it is endearing. "We only make wines that we want to drink," he declares, a philosophy rooted in personal enjoyment rather than commercial imperatives. Gazdag’s backstory is equally engaging: "I used to play badminton, but then I got too fat, and I started worrying about being bored in retirement. I wasn’t interested in hunting, fishing or collecting stamps – but I like wine, so I bought this land. It’s a hobby for me." His candor and passion for wine, born out of a desire to stave off boredom, reflect a refreshing, unpretentious attitude that resonates deeply with visitors seeking authentic experiences.

While for Gazdag, winemaking serves as a delightful antidote to potential lethargy in older age, for János Fogl at the neighboring Madaras Pince, it is nothing short of "my life." Szabó speaks of Fogl with genuine admiration, describing him as a genius who has been making wine since 1994. His expertise lies in his daring and innovative approach to viticulture, cross-breeding grapes to create unique varieties that, by conventional wisdom, "shouldn’t work in this region." This audacious experimentation underscores a profound understanding of his terroir and a relentless pursuit of new expressions. Shaded under a vine-tangled trellis, the tasting begins with a delightful cherry liqueur, a local specialty, before segueing into a dizzying selection of Fogl’s remarkable wines. Each time one believes the tasting is complete, Fogl, with a twinkle in his eye, shuffles off to his cellar, only to return with yet another intriguing bottle, each one a testament to his mastery and dedication.

As the Borbusz makes its return journey, music spills from its speakers, creating a convivial atmosphere. We pick up passengers – couples and groups of friends – from other wineries along the way, each group radiating an unmistakable ebullience. The day’s tastings, the stunning scenery, and the warm hospitality have clearly worked their magic. The lively chatter and laughter fill the air, a collective expression of joy and discovery. This vibrant energy will almost certainly mellow into a pleasant somnolence later, a perfect end to a day steeped in the beauty, culture, and exquisite tastes of the Balaton wine region. The 46° Balaton Borbusz is more than just a means of transport; it’s a catalyst for connection, a key that unlocks the hidden stories and flavors of Hungary’s "Hungarian Sea," firmly establishing the region as a must-visit destination for wine lovers and cultural explorers alike.