‘It’s one huge adventure playground’: readers’ best summer trips in the lakes and mountains of Europe

Haldensee: A Gem in Austria’s Tannheimer Tal

Our journey begins in the heart of Austria, specifically in the picturesque Tannheimer Tal valley, renowned as one of Europe’s most beautiful high valleys. Here, at an elevation of approximately 1,124 meters, lies Haldensee, a clear, sparkling glacial lake about 90 miles south-west of Munich. Visiting in late summer, as the season gracefully transitions, we found the water too bracing for a casual dip – a testament to its pristine, mountain-fed coldness – but the invigorating chill only enhanced the sense of natural immersion.

For the enthusiastic hiker, the region truly comes alive. A convenient ski lift ascends into the Allgäu Alps, offering immediate access to higher elevations and panoramic vistas. The ascent reveals a tapestry of dense, fragrant forests, primarily composed of pine, spruce, and larch, where sunlight filters through the canopy, creating a dappled wonderland. The well-maintained trails weave through this verdant expanse, leading to welcoming havens like the Bad Kissinger Hütte. These traditional Alpine mountain huts are pillars of local culture, providing much-needed refreshment and warmth. Here, hikers can refuel with a crisp apfelschorle – a sparkling apple juice popular throughout Germany and Austria – alongside hearty, warming soups like Goulashsuppe or a rich Leberknödelsuppe, and delightful seasonal bakes such as a classic Apfelstrudel. These culinary delights, often made with local ingredients, are the perfect restorative after a vigorous climb, enjoyed against a backdrop of breathtaking mountain scenery.

The descent is equally enchanting. We were accompanied by the melodic, rhythmic tinkling of cowbells, a quintessential sound of Alpine pastures. These amiable cattle, adorned with their distinctive bells, amble freely along the mountain-side springs, grazing on nutrient-rich grasses. This traditional Alpwirtschaft (alpine farming) practice not only sustains the local economy but also maintains the open meadows, contributing to the stunning landscape. Their presence, combined with the gentle murmur of springs and the crisp mountain air, imbues the experience with an unforgettable sense of tranquility and authenticity, etching a lasting memory of the Austrian Alps’ unique charm. For those considering a visit, the Tannheimer Tal is accessible by car from Munich or Innsbruck, and offers a range of accommodation from cozy guesthouses to larger hotels, all committed to preserving the valley’s natural beauty.

Lake Garda, Italy: An Alpine Playground with Mediterranean Flair

Moving south into Italy, the northern reaches of Lake Garda present a dramatic contrast to its more tranquil, resort-laden southern shores. Here, the majestic mountains of the Dolomites and Prealps plunge directly into the deep, turquoise waters, transforming the area into an expansive adventure playground. This unique topography creates a microclimate perfect for a plethora of activities: exhilarating hiking and world-class cycling trails, challenging climbing routes, serene boat trips, and an array of watersports that thrive on the lake’s famous winds, the ‘Ora’ and ‘Peler’. Beyond the natural thrills, the region is dotted with historic castles, cascading waterfalls, and charming valley cycle routes that offer a gentler pace.

Among the myriad options, the old Strada del Ponale stands out as a particular highlight for both cyclists and walkers. Originally a daring military road carved into the rock face in the mid-19th century, it was later used as a crucial transport link before being repurposed as a scenic path. The trail is a marvel of engineering, winding through natural tunnels and clinging precariously to sheer cliffs, offering continuously spectacular, vertigo-inducing views over the glittering expanse of Lake Garda. While manageable on foot, the undulating terrain and desire to cover more ground make an e-bike the preferred mode of transport for many, allowing for a more relaxed exploration of its length. The journey culminates at Ponale Alto, a charming eatery perched high above the lake. Here, weary adventurers can indulge in a hearty Italian pasta dish, perhaps a rich ragù or a fresh trota (trout) from the lake, perfectly complemented by a refreshing local beer or a glass of Trentino wine, before embarking on the exhilarating downhill return journey, with the lake constantly in view. The blend of challenging activity, historical intrigue, and gastronomic reward makes this area an unparalleled destination for active travelers.

Swiss Bliss Near Mont Blanc: La Fouly’s Tranquil Trails

For those seeking the grandeur of the Mont Blanc massif without the bustling crowds of Chamonix, the serene Swiss village of La Fouly in south-west Switzerland offers a captivating alternative. Nestled in the Val Ferret, a pristine valley of the Valais canton, La Fouly serves as a vital hub for the renowned Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) long-distance hiking trail. While sections of the TMB can be busy during peak season, La Fouly provides a gateway to numerous other, quieter walks that reveal the region’s breathtaking beauty in solitude.

One such unforgettable excursion is the hike to the Lacs de Fenêtre. This challenging but immensely rewarding trail leads hikers through stunning alpine meadows and rocky terrain to a series of high-altitude glacial lakes, often still partially frozen in early summer. The pristine environment is a haven for unique wildlife. At first light, the keen-eared hiker might discern the distinctive gurgling burps of rock ptarmigans, masters of camouflage, blending seamlessly with the surrounding rocks. As one descends back into the valley, the high-pitched shrieks of marmots echo across the slopes, their alarm calls signaling the presence of eagles or other predators. Observing these fascinating creatures in their natural habitat adds an extraordinary dimension to the hiking experience.

For accommodation, Camping des Glaciers in La Fouly offers an immersive experience. Situated beside cool, fast-flowing rivers fed by glacial meltwater, the campsite provides a direct connection to nature. The soothing sounds of the rushing water, combined with the crisp mountain air and the spectacular views of the surrounding peaks, create an idyllic setting for camping. The village itself, with its traditional chalets and friendly atmosphere, embodies the authentic Swiss Alpine charm, making it a perfect base for exploring the wilder, more serene side of the Mont Blanc region, far from the madding crowds.

Meadows and Cowbells in Slovenia’s Logar Valley

Tucked away in the northern reaches of Slovenia, the Logar Valley (Logarska Dolina) is a testament to the country’s commitment to preserving its natural heritage. Often hailed as one of Europe’s most beautiful glacial valleys, it is a protected landscape park where the dominant sound is not traffic, but the gentle, rhythmic clinking of cowbells. A narrow, winding road meanders through expansive, flower-filled meadows, leading visitors deeper into the embrace of the dramatic Kamnik-Savinja Alps, a range characterized by its impressive limestone peaks and rich biodiversity.

While accessible by car, the valley’s true essence is best savored on foot or by bicycle. This slower pace allows for spontaneous stops at the charming, family-run farms that dot the landscape. These traditional homesteads often participate in Slovenia’s "tourism on farms" initiative, offering visitors a taste of authentic rural life and delicious homemade produce, from artisanal cheeses crafted with milk from the grazing cattle to refreshing, freshly pressed apple juice. The valley floor offers an easy, well-marked trail leading to the magnificent Rinka waterfall, a powerful 90-meter cascade that plunges dramatically over a cliff face, creating a spectacular natural amphitheater.

After exploring, the numerous mountain inns (known as gostilnas or planinske koče) invite visitors to linger over a leisurely lunch, serving hearty Slovenian fare like štruklji (rolled dumplings) or žlikrofi (Idrija dumplings), accompanied by breathtaking views of the valley and surrounding peaks. Our personal experience of staying overnight in a family-run guesthouse revealed the valley’s profound tranquility. As early evening descended, the day visitors departed, leaving the valley almost silent save for the cheerful chirping of swallows swooping overhead and the contented grazing of cattle in the meadows below. This sense of undisturbed peace, coupled with Slovenia’s reputation as a leader in sustainable tourism, makes the Logar Valley an idyllic retreat for nature lovers.

Dragonflies and Lilies on Italy’s Secret Lake: Lago di Monate

In Italy’s famed lakes region, nestled between the much larger and more celebrated Lago Maggiore and Lago di Varese, lies a tranquil secret: Lago di Monate. This spring-fed lake is distinguished by possibly the freshest swimming water in all of Italy, a purity attributed to its long-standing and rigorously enforced ban on motorboats. This policy not only protects the lake’s ecological balance but also ensures an unparalleled atmosphere of peace and serenity.

The absence of motorboat traffic makes Lago di Monate a paradise for non-motorized watersports. Visitors can easily hire paddleboards, gliding across the calm, mirror-like surface to reach vast beds of water lilies that bloom vibrantly in the summer months. These lily pads create a miniature ecosystem, teeming with life, most notably a dazzling array of dragonflies, their iridescent wings flashing in the sunlight. It’s a truly immersive experience, offering a unique perspective of the lake’s untouched beauty.

For relaxation, establishments like Il Coppale offer inviting grassy beaches equipped with sunbeds and umbrellas, providing a comfortable and remarkably reasonable option for enjoying the lakeside. As evening approaches, the terrace at Il Coppale becomes an idyllic setting for dinner. Specializing in fresh fish, likely caught from the lake itself, a delicious meal can be enjoyed for around €25, accompanied by captivating views of the lake stretching towards the distant Alps. The combination of pristine waters, abundant wildlife, gentle recreation, and authentic Italian hospitality, all within an unspoiled natural setting, makes Lago di Monate a compelling alternative to Italy’s more bustling tourist hubs. Its relatively close proximity to Milan (north-west of the city) makes it an accessible yet wonderfully secluded escape.

Alpine Ambience in Bavaria: Ruhpolding and the Chiemgau Alps

For those seeking an authentic, budget-friendly autumnal trip with a distinctly Alpine flavor, the charming town of Ruhpolding in Upper Bavaria, Germany, emerges as an ideal destination. Nestled in the heart of the Chiemgau Alps, Ruhpolding immediately immerses visitors in a picturesque Alpine atmosphere, characterized by its traditional architecture, warm hospitality, and an unpretentious, welcoming ambience. Autumn in Bavaria paints the landscape in stunning gold and crimson hues, providing a spectacular backdrop for outdoor activities with crisp, invigorating air.

Ruhpolding offers a wealth of attractions, including an impressive waterpark for family fun and a collection of cool, crystal-blue lakes such as Lödensee and Weitsee. These serene lakes, perfect for gentle strolls or perhaps a brisk swim for the brave, are nestled amidst rolling hills and dense forests. The region is, however, primarily a hiker’s paradise. Trails of varying difficulty lead through classical Alpine scenery, often culminating at a traditional Alm. These mountain refuges, typically small, rustic huts on high meadows, embody Bavarian tradition, serving hearty local fare. Here, hikers can savor fresh milk, locally brewed beer, and generous platters of cured meats and artisanal cheeses – a true Brotzeit experience, offering a taste of regional flavors directly from the source.

A short drive away, the expansive Chiemsee, often referred to as the "Bavarian Sea," provides a different kind of lakeside experience. As Bavaria’s largest lake, it offers opportunities for boat trips, and even a day at the beach in warmer weather, and is home to the magnificent Herrenchiemsee Palace, King Ludwig II’s homage to Versailles. On the return journey, a stop in Munich offers a seamless blend of nature and culture. The city’s world-class attractions include the excellent BMW Museum, an architectural marvel that showcases the history and future of automotive design. Parts of the museum are even free to access, making it a culturally enriching and accessible addition to an Alpine adventure.

Velosud: Cycling the French Pyrenees Foothills

For cycling enthusiasts who yearn for mountain vistas without the grueling ascents and descents, the Velosud route in the foothills of the French Pyrenees offers a perfect solution. This thoughtfully designed and signposted route allows for a leisurely two-week journey, traversing a landscape of rolling hills, verdant valleys, and winding rivers, with the majestic Pyrenean peaks forming a constant, dramatic backdrop. The beauty of the Velosud lies in its accessibility: the route is predominantly traffic-free or follows very quiet country roads, making it ideal for families and those seeking a relaxed pace.

Each day on the Velosud unfolds with new mountain views, accompanied by the gentle murmur of rivers. The route passes through charming spa towns like Salies-du-Salat, known for its therapeutic saltwater springs and historic architecture, offering opportunities for rejuvenation. Further along, the medieval town of Foix captivates with its iconic château perched atop a rocky outcrop, providing a tangible link to the region’s rich history. Mirepoix, with its stunning arcaded central square and vibrant market, offers a delightful glimpse into local life and regional produce.

Accommodation along the Velosud is typically found in low-key but well-equipped campsites. These French campsites are renowned for their amenities, often featuring swimming pools, communal areas for evening aperitifs, and the delightful convenience of fresh morning croissants, ensuring a comfortable and convivial stay. This journey offers a unique blend of active exploration, cultural immersion, and gastronomic delights, all while embracing a sustainable and low-impact form of tourism. The Velosud is a testament to the fact that one can experience the grandeur of the mountains without necessarily conquering their summits, instead savoring their beauty from a gentler perspective.

A Cross-Border Trek on the Camino Francés: Pyrenean Majesty

For the dedicated long-distance walker, few experiences rival the profound journey of the Camino de Santiago. Stephen Taylor, having traversed close to 2,000 kilometers of this ancient pilgrimage network across Spain and Portugal, highlights a particularly stunning stretch of the Camino Francés: the iconic crossing from the French Pyrenean town of St-Jean-Pied-de-Port to the Spanish village of Roncesvalles. This segment, often referred to as the "Route Napoléon," is historically significant and widely regarded as one of the most challenging, yet ultimately rewarding, sections of the entire Camino.

St-Jean-Pied-de-Port, a charming medieval town in the French Basque Country, buzzes with the excitement of pilgrims preparing for their epic journey. The route from here demands a significant physical effort, involving a strenuous climb over the Pyrenees mountains, often reaching altitudes exceeding 1,400 meters at the Col de Roncevaux. The terrain is varied, passing through dense forests, open pastures, and rocky paths, testing the endurance of even seasoned hikers.

However, the reward for this arduous ascent is truly spectacular. In the early morning mist, as pilgrims approach the border with Spain, a magical transformation occurs. As one climbs above the cloud line, the world below dissolves into a ethereal sea of white, while the peaks emerge majestically into the clear sky. The panoramic views from this vantage point are nothing short of breathtaking, offering an expansive vista that stretches for miles across both French and Spanish territories. This cross-border trek is not just a physical challenge but a deeply spiritual and emotionally resonant experience, fostering a profound sense of accomplishment and connection to centuries of pilgrimage. Roncesvalles, on the Spanish side, provides a welcoming refuge, with its historic monastery and albergues (pilgrim hostels) offering solace and camaraderie to weary travelers.

Tuscany’s Wild Side: The Untamed Alpi Apuane

When one thinks of Tuscany, images of rolling vineyards, cypress-lined avenues, and picturesque medieval towns typically come to mind. Yet, in the far north of the region, inland from the Ligurian coast near La Spezia, lies a dramatic secret: the Alpi Apuane. As Robert aptly states, it’s "amazing that these raw, jagged cluster of marble peaks are not better known." They form a stark, majestic backdrop to the more conventional bucket-and-spade beaches, revealing a wild, untamed side of Tuscany that defies typical expectations.

The Alpi Apuane are geologically unique, composed primarily of marble, famously quarried for centuries in places like Carrara. This gives them a distinct, almost ethereal appearance, with vast white scars on their flanks that can resemble snowfields even in summer. The mountains are interlaced with a network of challenging trails, offering serious hikers opportunities for multi-day treks. Foremost among these is the historic Via Vandelli, an 18th-century ducal road that ingeniously links Modena to the coast. This ancient pathway is not for the faint of heart, demanding endurance and careful navigation, but it rewards adventurers with a profound sense of history and breathtaking scenery.

Beyond the main trails, the valleys of the Alpi Apuane shelter quiet, refreshing streams and a scattering of half-forgotten villages, where time seems to have slowed. These authentic communities offer a glimpse into a way of life deeply connected to the mountains, far removed from the tourist throngs. Above the treeline, the effort of the climb is spectacularly rewarded. Hikers are met with expansive, unparalleled views that sweep across the rugged mountain ranges, extend to the sparkling Ligurian Sea, and encompass the surreal, almost sculptural, marble quarries carved into the mountainsides. This dramatic juxtaposition of natural beauty, industrial heritage, and coastal panoramas truly showcases the "wild side of Tuscany," an unforgettable experience for those