‘It feels like Italy with the volume turned down’: readers’ favourite (smaller) city breaks in Europe

Ferrara, Italy: Renaissance Grandeur Without the Crowds
Nestled in the heart of Emilia-Romagna, Ferrara captivated John precisely because it embodies the quintessential Italian experience, yet with a refreshing sense of calm. This UNESCO World Heritage site, once ruled by the powerful Este family, flourished as a vibrant centre of art and culture during the Renaissance, attracting renowned artists and thinkers. Unlike its more frenetic Tuscan neighbours, Ferrara maintains a dignified tranquility that allows visitors to truly absorb its historical ambiance. John’s mornings began in a charming, family-run hotel nestled near the labyrinthine Via delle Volte, a medieval street characterized by its atmospheric arches and cobblestones. Here, the aroma of freshly baked pastries mingled with the quiet hum of a city awakening, a stark contrast to the clamour found elsewhere.

The highlight of John’s visit was the Palazzo dei Diamanti, a magnificent Renaissance palace famed for its striking diamond-point façade, which shimmered under the Italian sun. When he visited, the museum was almost empty, a rare luxury that afforded him the space and solitude to truly appreciate its exceptional collection of Renaissance art, particularly works by artists of the Ferrarese School such as Cosmè Tura and Francesco del Cossa. This unhurried exploration allowed for a deep contemplation of masterpieces that might otherwise be glimpsed in a fleeting moment amidst a throng. Evenings in Ferrara were dedicated to leisurely cycles along the city’s ancient terracotta walls, a testament to its well-preserved urban fabric, leading to tiny, intimate trattorias. These establishments proudly served up local specialties, most notably cappellacci di zucca, a traditional pumpkin-filled pasta dish that epitomizes the rich culinary heritage of Emilia-Romagna. Ferrara, with its harmonious blend of art, history, and gastronomy, truly encourages visitors to slow down, breathe deeply, and savour its understated beauty, offering an authentic taste of Italy away from the clamour.

Hanover, Germany: A Verdant Urban Oasis Defying Expectations
Often overshadowed by Germany’s more glamorous cities like Munich or the vibrant cultural hub of Berlin, Hanover, located in northern Germany, unfairly bears a reputation for being somewhat unexciting. However, as Ulrike discovered, this perception is entirely undeserved. Hanover is a city of surprising depth and diversity, boasting world-class cultural institutions, expansive green spaces, and a rich architectural tapestry. Art enthusiasts will find themselves drawn to the Sprengel Museum, a modern art gallery renowned for its extensive collections of 20th and 21st-century art, including significant works by Kurt Schwitters, Pablo Picasso, and Max Ernst, offering a profound insight into modernism and contemporary movements.

Beyond its artistic offerings, Hanover is a city deeply connected to nature. It is home to one of Europe’s best-preserved Baroque gardens, the magnificent Great Garden at Herrenhausen. These historic gardens, with their intricate parterres, grand fountains, and the enchanting Grotto designed by Niki de Saint Phalle, provide a serene escape and a glimpse into royal European landscape design. The city also prides itself on the Eilenriede, an immense urban forest spanning 640 hectares (1,680 acres)—nearly twice the size of New York’s Central Park—offering countless opportunities for walking, cycling, and recreation within the city limits. Further south of the centre lies the Maschsee, a large artificial lake where locals and visitors alike can enjoy boat trips (even accessible with a standard bus ticket), rent paddle boats, or simply relax by the water. Hanover’s commitment to sustainability is evident in its over 600 miles of dedicated cycle paths, encouraging exploration of its diverse neighbourhoods. The well-heeled Art Nouveau district of List invites discovery of independent boutiques and charming cafes, while the multicultural Linden district pulses with bohemian energy and unique shops. For a perfect end to a day of exploration, Ulrike recommends unwinding in a deck chair on the historic Ballhofplatz, enjoying tea and cake at the charming Teestübchen, reflecting the city’s ability to combine urban vitality with tranquil moments.

Loulé, Portugal: The Algarve’s Enduring Heart of Craftsmanship
Ten miles inland from Faro, the bustling capital of the Algarve, lies Loulé, a city that bursts with an authentic Portuguese charm often missed along the region’s more tourist-heavy coastlines. Loulé is not merely a pretty city; it is a vibrant guardian of traditional crafts, a legacy deeply embedded in its cultural identity. This commitment to heritage is robustly supported by Loulé Criativo, an innovative network of community-driven artisans and cultural initiatives. This project actively works to preserve and celebrate the unique identity of Loulé and the wider Algarve region by fostering traditional skills and connecting them with contemporary life.

Visitors to Loulé Criativo can delve into a world where ancient techniques are kept alive. The House of Weaving (Casa da Empreita) showcases the intricate art of palm weaving, a craft historically vital to the region for basketry and utilitarian items, now transformed into artistic expressions. At the Watchmakers (Oficina do Relojoeiro), the delicate precision of horology is practised and taught, maintaining a rare and valuable skill. Meanwhile, the Stringed Instrument Workshop (Oficinas de Cordofones) resonates with the sounds of traditional Portuguese guitars and other instruments being meticulously crafted, each piece a work of art and a link to the country’s rich musical heritage. These are not static museums but vibrant, living spaces where visitors are encouraged to interact directly with the artisans, witnessing their skilled hands at work and even participating in workshops. This direct engagement ensures that Loulé’s heritage is not merely preserved but actively passed down, fostering a profound sense of continuity through generations. The city’s iconic market, housed in a striking neo-Gothic building, serves as a bustling hub where these crafts, alongside fresh local produce, are celebrated, further cementing Loulé’s reputation as the Algarve’s authentic city of crafts.

Arras, France: A Tapestry of History and Underground Wonders
A mere 35-minute train ride from the bustling city of Lille transports travellers to Arras, a northern French city that boasts a remarkably rich history and two distinguished UNESCO World Heritage sites. Arras stands as a testament to resilience, having been largely rebuilt after severe damage in both World Wars, yet retaining its profound historical character. The city’s architectural crown jewels include the belfry of the Hôtel de Ville, an imposing Gothic tower that offers panoramic views over the city and its surrounding plains, serving as a powerful symbol of civic pride and independence. Equally impressive is the Vauban Citadel, a masterful example of 17th-century military engineering designed by Sébastien Le Prestre de Vauban, whose fortifications across France are renowned for their strategic brilliance.

However, one of Arras’s most unique and astonishing experiences lies beneath its charming cobblestones: Les Boves. This extraordinary 10th-century network of chalk tunnels, originally quarried for building materials, later served as cellars, storage, and, most famously, as vital shelters and supply routes for Allied soldiers during both the First and Second World Wars. Exploring these subterranean passages offers an immersive and moving journey through centuries of history, a chilling reminder of the city’s strategic importance and the human stories embedded within its very foundations. Above ground, Arras delights with two magnificent, sprawling squares – the Grand’Place and the Place des Héros – both designed in a distinct Flemish Baroque style, complete with gabled houses that evoke a strong sense of Northern European charm. These vibrant squares are alive with a wide variety of alfresco cafes, gourmet restaurants, and independent shops, creating a lively atmosphere for dining and people-watching. Bryan Boese also highlights Arras’s reputation for hosting one of the largest and most enchanting Christmas markets north of Paris, renowned for its extensive array of international gourmet foods and festive spirit, making it a captivating destination year-round.

Malmö, Sweden: Artistry, Architecture, and Culinary Curiosities
Easily accessible via the Öresund Bridge connecting it to Copenhagen, Malmö presents itself as a dynamic, highly walkable city in Sweden’s beautiful south, offering a unique blend of contemporary culture, innovative architecture, and unexpected culinary experiences. Elisabeth fondly recalls her visit, noting the city’s progressive spirit and its blend of historical charm with modern flair. A key cultural highlight is the free Malmö Konsthall arts centre, a striking brutalist building that hosts an array of engaging contemporary exhibitions, providing a platform for both established and emerging artists. Outside, the square often buzzes with the vibrant artistry of skateboarders, creating an impromptu urban spectacle that reflects the city’s youthful energy.

Malmö’s commitment to sustainable urban development is best exemplified by its Western Harbour district, a remarkable transformation of a former industrial area into a cutting-edge residential and commercial hub. This area is an architectural enthusiast’s dream, featuring gems like the iconic Turning Torso, a neo-futurist skyscraper designed by Santiago Calatrava, which twists 90 degrees from base to top, a true landmark of Scandinavian design. Beyond its visual appeal, the Western Harbour offers inviting restaurants and swimming piers, providing opportunities for relaxation and recreation by the water. For a taste of traditional Swedish culture, Elisabeth highly recommends a visit to Café Hollandia, a venerable establishment that offers classic Swedish cakes and pastries in a wonderfully atmospheric setting, perfect for indulging in the Swedish tradition of fika. Adjacent to this sweet haven lies the intriguing Disgusting Food Museum, a thought-provoking cultural experience that challenges perceptions of taste by showcasing foods considered delicacies in some cultures but reviled in others. This museum, as Elisabeth humorously notes, comes with a warning – a sign displays the running tally of visitors who have, perhaps after a visit to Hollandia, found its exhibits too challenging for their stomachs, underscoring its unique and memorable impact.

Cagliari, Sardinia: Sun-Kissed Beaches and Seafood Delights
If one can manage to tear themselves away from Poetto – undeniably one of Europe’s most beautiful city beaches, stretching for miles with its fine white sand and crystal-clear waters – Cagliari, the vibrant capital of Sardinia, reveals a wealth of attractions. Martha’s experience highlights a city that effortlessly blends stunning natural beauty with deep historical roots and an exceptional culinary scene. The heart of Cagliari’s gastronomic appeal lies in its huge indoor produce market, a sensory explosion of sights, sounds, and aromas. Here, stalls overflow with glistening, freshly caught seafood, a testament to Sardinia’s maritime bounty, alongside robust local pecorino cheeses and an array of sweet, nutty Sardinian treats unique to the island.

The city centre itself ascends gracefully from the bustling port, crowned by the elegant bulwark of Bastione di Saint Remy. This grand Neoclassical terrace, a symbol of Cagliari, not only offers spectacular panoramic views across the city’s rooftops to the azure Mediterranean Sea but also serves as a majestic gateway to the ancient Castello district. This historic quarter, perched atop a hill, is a captivating labyrinth of narrow, winding streets, ancient Pisan towers, and grand palazzi, revealing centuries of Sardinian history. While Martha regrettably missed the renowned National Archaeological Museum, home to a priceless collection of artifacts spanning Nuragic to Roman periods, its absence only fuels the desire for a return visit. The affordability and freshness of Cagliari’s seafood were a definite highlight of her trip. A particular culinary memory was the chargrilled bream and calamari at Trattoria Lillicu, a local favourite known for its authentic Sardinian seafood dishes, providing yet another irresistible reason to hasten back to this enchanting Mediterranean capital.

Ålesund, Norway: An Art Nouveau Phoenix Rising from the Ashes
Ålesund stands as one of Norway’s most undeniably beautiful stops along its already spectacular western coast, a testament to resilience and architectural vision. Teresa Stansby recounts her journey to this small, enchanting city, which, despite being almost entirely devastated by a catastrophic fire in 1904, rose phoenix-like from its ashes to become a coherent masterpiece of Art Nouveau (Jugendstil) architecture. Her initial sighting of Ålesund came after navigating the breathtaking winding roads of the Trollstigen, the legendary "Troll’s Path," culminating in a panoramic view from the summit of Mount Aksla. From this vantage point, the city sprawls below, a harmonious ensemble of turrets, spires, and ornate facades, all characteristic of the Art Nouveau style.

A descent of exactly 418 steps leads directly into the historic centre, where the city’s unique charm truly unfolds. Museums, quaint cafes, and inviting restaurants cluster around the picturesque Brosundet Canal, housed within beautifully renovated warehouses and exquisitely detailed buildings. The cohesion of the Art Nouveau style throughout the city, a direct result of its systematic rebuilding, gives Ålesund a fairytale quality that is unlike any other Norwegian city. The city offers a myriad of ways to experience its natural and architectural splendour. Teresa and her companions, unable to choose, embraced them all: kayaking through the tranquil canals, feeling the exhilaration of a rib boat ride across the fjord waters, and embarking on an unforgettable trip to the stunning Geirangerfjord. This UNESCO World Heritage site, with its towering cliffs, cascading waterfalls, and emerald-green waters, embodies the dramatic natural beauty for which Norway is famous, making Ålesund not just an architectural marvel, but also a gateway to some of the world’s most breathtaking landscapes.

Saint-Malo, France: Brittany’s Walled City of History and Charm
Sophie Amos’s five-day visit to Saint-Malo in August reveals a French city that truly offers a bit of everything, blending rich history with coastal beauty and a distinct cultural identity. This iconic port city, famously encircled by formidable granite ramparts, carries a legendary past as a stronghold of privateers and explorers, its maritime heritage palpable in every stone. The impressive walled city itself is a living museum, inviting visitors to wander its cobbled streets, explore its historic buildings, and walk along the ancient ramparts that offer spectacular views of the English Channel and the surrounding coastline.

Beyond its historical core, Saint-Malo boasts a diverse array of beaches, each offering a unique character and shifting light throughout the day, from the expansive Grande Plage to the more sheltered coves. A particular highlight is the modernist tidal pool, a unique feature that provides a safe and exhilarating swimming experience, complete with a high diving platform, blending architectural innovation with natural elements. The city, as Sophie notes, radiates a profound sense of pride, reflected in the local artistry inspired by its famous landmarks, making for wonderful and authentic souvenirs. However, her favourite memory was simpler, yet deeply personal: enjoying the wonderful local cider at La Passage, a charming spot on Instagram, with her sister. This moment encapsulates the relaxed, convivial atmosphere that permeates Saint-Malo. Adding to its appeal, even in August, when much of Europe sweltered, Saint-Malo maintained a pleasant temperature that never exceeded 25°C, offering a refreshing escape and a perfect climate for exploration and relaxation, solidifying its status as a quintessential Breton destination.

Winning Tip: Leiden, Netherlands – A Watery Dutch Masterpiece
Leiden, according to Bill Jones, starts with an initial impression that is less than enchanting. The immediate walk from the train station, with its "grim" and uninspiring array of "scruffy bars and vape shops," hardly hints at the treasures that lie within. But then, as if by magic, this "watery Dutch gem" dramatically reveals itself, transforming from an unpromising arrival into an utterly captivating urban landscape. Canals, brimming with boats, branch off from a central basin, each waterway lined with stately brick mansions. These grand buildings, tapering to elegant finials, stand proudly under the characteristic blue lowland skies that have graced countless Dutch Golden Age paintings, creating a picturesque scene that feels both timeless and vibrant.

Delving deeper into Leiden’s heart uncovers a network of narrow, traffic-free courtyards and squares, where cafes spill out with light and convivial chatter. This intimate atmosphere is a striking reminder of the city’s rich past, a place where Rembrandt himself once "trudged to the school that still stands here, just round the corner from his first tutor’s studio." Indeed, Leiden played a pivotal role in the Dutch Golden Age and was the birthplace of the famed painter, a legacy still deeply felt. If Rembrandt were to return today, Bill muses, he would find much of it unchanged, a testament to Leiden’s remarkably preserved historical core. Beyond its artistic connections, Leiden is also home to one of Europe’s oldest universities, contributing to its intellectual and cultural vibrancy, with botanical gardens and numerous museums enriching its offerings. The city truly shines during the festive season; at Christmas, an ice rink gracefully spreads across the main canal, and the air becomes fragrant with the warm, inviting scents of mulled wine, cloves, and freshly made crepes drifting from the bustling market stalls. Leiden is a city that rewards those who look beyond the initial facade, offering a profound journey into Dutch history, art, and charm, making it a truly deserving "winning tip" for discerning travellers.

These nine cities, each with its unique allure, collectively demonstrate that Europe’s true travel magic often resides in its lesser-explored corners. They offer a refreshing antidote to overcrowded hotspots, inviting travellers to discover authentic local cultures, engage with rich histories, and create personal, cherished memories away from the madding crowds.