A taste of home: discovering Sweden’s local food heroes

Johansson’s transformative journey began with a disarmingly simple, yet deeply impactful question. Years ago, a journalist, observing his ambitious creations, asked why he was cooking the food he was cooking. Like many aspiring Swedish chefs of his generation, Stefan had honed his craft in Stockholm’s most prestigious restaurants, where a vast pantry of global ingredients was merely a phone call away. The question, however, lingered long after the interview concluded, planting a seed of introspection that would irrevocably alter his professional trajectory and the very ethos of Hågbo Brukshotell.

“Before, I wanted food to be spectacular; I didn’t really care where it came from,” he admits, reflecting on his earlier culinary philosophy. “Then I closed the window of where we source from down to the region. It was the best thing I’ve ever done.” This pivotal decision marked a radical departure from conventional fine dining practices, compelling him to look closer to home for inspiration, ingredients, and ultimately, a more authentic expression of Swedish cuisine. It wasn’t just about sustainability; it was about defining a true sense of place on the plate.

Hågbo Brukshotell itself is nestled within the historic Hågbo ironworks, a tranquil expanse of dense forest, meandering waterways, and beautifully preserved historic buildings located north of Sandviken in Gästrikland. The area’s rich industrial past, dating back centuries, remains vividly etched in its old manor houses, robust smithies, and grand mill buildings. However, since the furnaces fell silent and the factories ceased operations in the mid-19th century, nature has steadily reclaimed its dominion. Today, the once-industrial landscape has transformed into a verdant playground, with extensive walking, cycling, and cross-country ski trails weaving through the ancient woods. The venerable bruk buildings, far from being relics, have found new life, housing charming cafes, artisan workshops, and thriving small businesses, creating a vibrant community hub where history and modernity coalesce.

The commitment to local sourcing at Hågbo Brukshotell rapidly evolved into the ambitious "Made in Hågbo" project, a comprehensive initiative designed to bring every possible ingredient in-house or from immediate proximity. What once travelled great distances to reach Hågbo’s kitchens is now cultivated or reared directly on the property or within a stone’s throw. The project commenced with animal husbandry, specifically lamb, establishing an integrated system where animal rearing and skilled butchery were brought entirely in-house. This allowed for unparalleled control over animal welfare, feed, and meat quality, ensuring a truly nose-to-tail approach that minimizes waste and maximizes flavour.

Following the success of the lamb project, vegetable production became the next frontier. Expansive greenhouses now stand proudly alongside traditional kitchen gardens, forming a vital ecosystem that supplies the restaurant with an astonishing array of fresh produce year-round, despite Sweden’s challenging climate. This not only guarantees peak freshness and flavour but also drastically reduces the hotel’s carbon footprint associated with food transportation.

Beyond environmental and culinary benefits, the "Made in Hågbo" project boasts a profound social dimension. Recognizing the potential for integration and skill-building, Hågbo actively collaborates with local refugee communities. Refugees from Myanmar played an instrumental role in establishing some of the initial growing projects, lending their agricultural expertise and labour. More recently, new arrivals from the Democratic Republic of the Congo have joined the initiative, splitting their time between crucial Swedish language classes and hands-on work placements in the gardens. Their cultural influence is visibly etched in the diverse rows of plants, where species rarely associated with Sweden, such as papaya and bananas, are now cultivated, symbolizing a unique fusion of global knowledge and local innovation. This aspect of the project transforms the hotel into a powerful engine for social inclusion, providing meaningful employment, fostering cultural exchange, and empowering individuals.

The innovation doesn’t stop there. Ambitious plans are underway for an advanced aquaponics system, an integrated method combining greenhouse cultivation with sustainable tilapia fish farming. This closed-loop system will maximize water efficiency and nutrient recycling, providing both fresh fish and vegetables with minimal environmental impact. Complementing these agricultural endeavours, existing farm buildings have been repurposed to host a vibrant ecosystem of artisan production: a thriving bakery crafting exquisite sourdough breads and pastries from local grains, a microbrewery run by one of the talented chefs producing unique craft beers, a small dairy producing fresh, artisanal cheeses, and an excellent deli showcasing the bounty of Hågbo’s own production and other regional delights.

Hågbo is, however, not an isolated pioneer. Across Gästrikland and its neighbouring region, Hälsingland, a quiet yet powerful movement is taking root. Over several days of exploring eastern Sweden, I discovered a vibrant network of millers, fishers, distillers, cheese makers, and chefs, all bound by a shared, fundamental belief: that food should be an authentic reflection of the land and waters from which it originates. This collective ethos echoes the principles of the New Nordic Cuisine movement, emphasizing purity, seasonality, and ethical production, but with a distinct regional Swedish flavour.

At Gammelstilla, another venerable ironworks has been creatively reimagined as a small, artisanal whisky distillery. Utilizing the pure local water and carefully selected grains, Gammelstilla crafts spirits that embody the spirit of the region, contributing to Sweden’s burgeoning craft distillery scene and offering a new lease of life to an industrial heritage site.

Further south, in the charming village of Gästrike-Hammarby, The Old Mill (Gamla Kvarn) stands as an emblem of culinary excellence. This historic mill building now houses an award-winning restaurant helmed by the talented chef duo Bogdan Ioan Gheorghe and Ellinor Andersson. Their tasting menu is a passionate ode to local producers, a roll-call of regional heroes, interspersed with surprising and innovative ingredients. Notably, they ingeniously incorporate Japanese knotweed, an invasive species, transforming it into a delicious and sustainable component, showcasing a resourceful approach to gastronomy that addresses environmental challenges.

Along the coast in Norrsundet, at Bergmans Fisk, low-lying islands dot the bay, and the vast Baltic Sea stretches eastward towards Finland, framed by traditional wooden smokehouses. This is the domain of a seventh-generation fishing family, whose profound connection to these waters spans well over a century. Inside their meticulously maintained smokehouses, rows of salmon hang, undergoing a slow, artisanal smoking process, a technique refined and perfected over generations, a testament to enduring culinary heritage.

Dennis Bergman, a current steward of the family legacy, emphasizes that for traditions – and the business itself – to survive and thrive in the modern era, adaptation and diversification are crucial. In a strategic move in 2020, the family opened a waterfront restaurant, offering diners a direct view of the very bay where their fresh fish is caught. Here, we savour a delectable smorgasbord of perfectly smoked salmon and böckling (hot-smoked herring), piled high on crisp dark rye bread – a taste experience that truly connects you to the source. The family’s innovative spirit extends to a travelling fish van, serving fresh catches to remote coastal communities, and plans are afoot for a small hotel, all new ventures designed to safeguard the future of invaluable ancient skills and a cherished way of life.

Driving north through Hälsingland’s deep pine forests and lush agricultural fields, I frequently spot hand-painted signs advertising local produce: potatoes, fresh eggs, and seasonal strawberries. Outside picturesque red-painted farm buildings, quaint honesty boxes brim with fresh produce, a charming and trusting system that speaks volumes about the community spirit and direct farm-to-consumer ethos prevalent in the region. This direct exchange fosters a strong bond between producers and consumers, reinforcing the local food economy.

At Teve Kvarn, a historic mill south of Järvsö, I meet Anna Larsson, a formidable seventh-generation miller. Her commitment to local sourcing is unwavering; she procures grain from farmers within approximately a 150km (93-mile) radius, selling them high-quality seed and then buying back the harvested grain to ensure the superior quality of her flour. Only a handful of traditional water-powered mills of this type remain operational in Sweden, making Teve Kvarn a living heritage site. Anna proudly points out her "newest" machine – a robust piece of engineering installed in 1930, still performing flawlessly.

Adjacent to the traditional wooden mill, a striking tall glass building houses shiny stills. This is the Tevsjö distillery, run by Anna’s husband, Jonas, a testament to entrepreneurial spirit and innovation. Using the same high-quality grain from Teve Kvarn, Jonas produces exceptional vodka, gin, and aquavit. The distillery operates entirely on hydroelectric power generated from the nearby stream, a remarkable example of sustainable production. Its popularity has soared, leading to a more than tenfold increase in production capacity and, crucially, the creation of ten new local jobs, demonstrating the significant economic ripple effect of such regional ventures.

At the nearby Järvsö Lanthandel, a charming general store and restaurant, I encounter chef Tobias Annerhult, a passionate advocate for radical localism. For Annerhult, local sourcing isn’t merely desirable; it forms the bedrock of his entire culinary philosophy. “I only buy salt, pepper, sugar and oil,” he states emphatically, outlining his extreme commitment. “I don’t use stabilisers. Nothing gets thrown away; that feeds the creative process. Our philosophy is to grow through limitations.” This scarcity, far from being a constraint, becomes a powerful catalyst for creativity, forcing inventive approaches to ingredient utilization and waste reduction.

In a Nordic climate where fresh vegetables are available in abundance for only a fraction of the year, traditional preservation techniques are not just important, but absolutely essential. Annerhult is a master of these methods, meticulously pickling, curing, and fermenting local produce, including various meats for his exquisite charcuterie. These ancient techniques allow him to capture and extend the fleeting flavours of the seasons, providing a diverse pantry year-round.

Tonight, we too engage directly with this philosophy, participating in a cooking class that Tobias offers for private group bookings. We arrive with a bounty of produce collected across the region: flour from Anna’s centuries-old mill; artisanal cheese and potatoes from honesty boxes discovered on rural roadsides; freshly smoked fish from the Bergman family, who have worked the same waters for generations; and vibrant vegetables harvested from local greenhouses.

Under Tobias’s expert guidance, we transform these ingredients into a truly memorable meal. We craft fermented pea pancakes, their earthy notes beautifully complemented by sweet preserved apple and tangy local goat’s cheese. Next, we prepare bouncy, fresh pasta using Anna’s finely milled wheat and eggs from Tobias’s own chickens, served simply with creamy burrata-style cheese, nutty brown butter, and fragrant garden herbs. The meal concludes with a warm, comforting cake, featuring the first, delicate rhubarb of the season.

It’s a meal that tastes infinitely better for knowing the intricate stories and dedicated people behind each ingredient. The act of combining carefully preserved and fermented items with the season’s freshest produce is a conscious harkening back to traditional approaches to cooking and eating – a wisdom that modern chefs are now enthusiastically reclaiming, with truly delicious and sustainable results.

This profound experience perhaps finally answers the question that catalyzed Stefan Johansson’s career all those years ago. Why cook this food, in this specific place? Because when food truly belongs somewhere, deeply connected to its land, its history, and its community, it transcends mere sustenance. It becomes a powerful narrative, a sensory journey, and a profound way of understanding that place itself, offering a taste of its past, present, and a deliciously sustainable future.

The trip was provided by Visit Sweden. For more information visit gastrikland.se and destinationhalsingland.se. Hågbo Brukshotell has doubles from 1,995 Swedish kronor (£155) B&B.