Saunas, cinnamon buns and coastal scenery on the new rail route from Malmö to Oslo

I am aboard Snälltåget’s iconic red-shelled train, embarking on the Swedish rail company’s eagerly anticipated new direct route from Malmö to Oslo. This 6.5-hour journey is more than just a means of transport; it’s a revelation for travellers who previously endured long, fragmented bus rides and multiple train transfers to traverse the distance between these two vibrant Scandinavian capitals. The new direct line is not only significantly easier but also remarkably affordable, with tickets starting at an astonishingly low £11 each way. This accessibility has been a game-changer, with the route already proving to be a resounding success, having shuttled over 25,000 passengers since its launch earlier this summer. Its popularity underscores a growing trend in sustainable travel, as more individuals seek efficient and environmentally conscious alternatives to flying, embracing the romance and practicality of long-distance rail. Snälltåget, known for its comfortable sleeper services and commitment to accessible rail travel, has clearly tapped into a burgeoning market, challenging established carriers and offering a fresh perspective on inter-Nordic connections.

My own enchantment with Scandinavian rail travel began a decade ago on a memorable journey from Stockholm to Gothenburg. That trip, characterized by a cosy dark-wood cabin and the soothing melodies of a pianist in the dining car, cemented my appreciation for the unique blend of efficiency and elegance that Nordic trains offer. This time, starting in Malmö, my plan is to fully leverage this new route, breaking the journey into a series of strategic stops along Sweden’s captivating western shore, delving deeper into the region’s distinct character beyond the typical tourist trails.

Malmö, often unjustly overshadowed by the more celebrated capital, Stockholm, stands as a compelling starting point. Located just across the Öresund Bridge from Copenhagen, this southern port city possesses a raw, unpolished charm that distinguishes it from Stockholm’s more manicured elegance. It’s grittier, perhaps, but this edginess is precisely what fuels its vibrant, outgoing spirit. Within an hour of my arrival, I find myself invited for drinks by a group of locals – a spontaneous warmth and openness I rarely encountered during my time living in Stockholm. This palpable sense of community and curiosity is rooted in Malmö’s dynamic demographics: almost half of its population is under 35, and with 187 nationalities represented, it is a genuine melting pot, fostering an environment ripe for creativity and innovation. This cultural mosaic is evident in institutions like the Form/Design Center, which occupies a beautifully repurposed 16th-century grain store. It now serves as a dynamic meeting point and exhibition space for design, crafts, and architecture enthusiasts, showcasing both established and emerging talent that defines contemporary Scandinavian aesthetics. Complementing this are the city’s impressive modern art galleries, Moderna Museet and Malmö Konsthall, which host diverse and thought-provoking exhibitions, solidifying Malmö’s reputation as a significant cultural hub.

The city’s pulse is perhaps most strongly felt in Möllevången, affectionately known as Möllan, a trendy neighbourhood teeming with creatives. Here, residents exude an effortlessly cool, almost art-college aesthetic, reminiscent of a recent weekend escape to Berlin. My friend Rob, a Malmö resident for nearly a decade, guides me through Folkets Park, the historic "people’s park" – a beloved green oasis where community thrives. He points out his favourite pizza spot, Far i Hatten, nestled within charming wooden huts, a testament to the park’s relaxed, communal vibe. We secure a table at Ava, a nearby organic wine bar, for a local beer on a leafy square dotted with other hip restaurants and cafes. The atmosphere is strikingly similar to London Fields in Hackney – a laid-back urban retreat where independent businesses flourish. Resisting the urge to prolong our purposefully unhurried bar crawl, we opt for a final nightcap at Bar Bobo, a cosy local favourite, before calling it a night, content with Malmö’s understated yet utterly captivating allure.

The next morning brings an early start, as Snälltåget operates just one direct Oslo-bound train a day from Malmö Central, departing at 6.38 am (though plans are underway to increase frequency next year). The station platform buzzes with a diverse crowd of families, students, and backpackers, their enormous rucksacks resembling fridge-freezers, all eager for the journey ahead. Soon after departure, we glide past the imposing Romanesque towers of Lund Cathedral, a magnificent medieval landmark that stands as a testament to Sweden’s rich ecclesiastical history. The landscape quickly transitions into vast, pancake-flat yellowing agricultural fields, stretching to the horizon under the pale morning sun. As the journey progresses, the scenery becomes more coastal, skirting the beautiful Apelviken bay – Varberg’s expansive, sandy horseshoe beach, renowned as a popular spot for kitesurfing and surfing, its waves inviting adventurers from across the region.

Varberg itself presents as Sweden’s charming equivalent of a coastal British market town. Its cobbled streets are adorned with festive bunting, leading to intimate cafes and a bustling weekend market. Here, local vendors proudly display an array of fresh vegetables, seasonal fruits, homemade marmalades, handcrafted leather belts, and artisanal socks, offering a taste of authentic regional life. Beyond its market town appeal, Varberg is a celebrated spa town, a reputation that piqued my interest and became a key reason for my visit. I was particularly intrigued by the town’s strikingly beautiful, Moorish-inspired Kallbadhuset (cold bath house). Perched elegantly on wooden piles above the bracing waters of the Kattegat sea, this architectural marvel offers visitors, for approximately £8, access to segregated men’s and women’s saunas. Both boast spellbinding sea views, creating an immersive experience of relaxation and rejuvenation. The invigorating plunge into the brisk sea water after a session in the sauna proves to be the perfect antidote to the early 6 am start, especially after a celebratory bottle of red wine the night before. Floating on my back, gazing upwards, I witness a scene straight out of a David Hockney painting: a group of Swedish veterans, comfortably baring all (it is, after all, a nude bathhouse), seated on a wooden bench, their figures framed by the Kallbadhuset’s distinctive mustard-yellow shades.

Further along the promenade, near Skarpe Nord, a community-run women’s bathing spot, a sign proudly declares that nude-bathing has been a Varberg tradition for over a century. I walk past a series of other designated naked bathing areas, carved into a cavernous passage of blasted rocks that evokes a secret pathway from Lord of the Rings. However, with the grey, overcast weather showing no signs of clearing, the inviting warmth of my hotel’s spa proves to be a more immediate allure.

Deep within the bowels of Hotell Gästis lies a truly extraordinary space: a meticulous replica of Vladimir Lenin’s favourite bathhouse. The hotel’s owner, Lasse Diding, a fascinating and eccentric entrepreneur, constructed this unique spa as a homage to his idol, drawing inspiration from a visit to the original bathhouse in St Petersburg during the 1980s. This slightly eerie yet utterly captivating space is clad in over 75,000 shimmering cobalt tiles and adorned with candlelit busts of various communist leaders, creating an atmosphere that is both historical and deeply personal. Diding’s enduring interest in the communist movement, sparked during the Vietnam War, has profoundly shaped Varberg’s landscape. He is responsible for many of the town’s most visible and often provocative left-leaning monuments, including a giant Palestine flag flying proudly, Hotell Havanna (a vibrant ode to revolutionary Cuba), and a powerful statue of Danuta Danielsson. Danielsson became a symbol of solidarity and defiance after famously hitting a marching neo-Nazi with her handbag in Växjö in 1985, a moment captured in an iconic photograph that resonated globally. These installations, while sometimes controversial, undeniably contribute to Varberg’s unique, outspoken character.

The following morning, I board a fast train for the brief 39-minute ride to Gothenburg. After checking into the sophisticated, French boudoir-style Hotel Pigalle, conveniently located just five minutes’ walk from the Central station, I set out to explore. My stroll takes me along Kungsgatan, the city’s modern shopping artery, before veering towards Magasinsgatan. This vibrant area is a treasure trove for fashion enthusiasts and craft lovers, packed with excellent vintage shops like Ragtime, Pop, and Humana, alongside artisan craft stores such as Customwood, which specializes in bespoke wooden furniture made to order. The blend of contemporary and timeless styles perfectly encapsulates Gothenburg’s eclectic urban spirit.

A quintessential Swedish experience awaits at Da Matteo, where I indulge in a fika – the cherished Swedish tradition of taking a mindful break for coffee and a sweet treat. This barn-turned-cafe, spread across three floors, is a masterclass in Scandi-industrial interior design, straight out of a design magazine. Bespectacled patrons tap away on laptops, a testament to its popularity as a creative workspace. The air is rich with the inviting scents of freshly baked bread and expertly roasted coffee, emanating from the in-house bakery and coffee roastery. My bullar (a classic cardamom bun, perfectly spiced and subtly sweet) and a creamy latte cost just under a tenner, a small price for such a delightful and culturally immersive experience.

Later, as I wander through the sprawling Slottsskogen park, memories of my fleeting first visit years ago flood back, reminding me why I once dreamt of moving to Gothenburg. Sweden’s second-largest city, it strikes a perfect balance: compact and easy-going, it shares Malmö’s charmingly rough-around-the-edges feel in places, yet boasts the liveability, abundant nature, and rich cultural tapestry of Stockholm. At its heart lies the picturesque old town of Haga, with its narrow cobbled streets, inviting wafts of baked goods, and the nostalgic sound of creaky, wooden trams trundling by. Slottsskogen, roughly the size of London’s Hyde Park, remains my favourite park in Europe. It’s a vast urban sanctuary home to wild deer, playful penguins, and sturdy Gotland ponies – precisely the kind of place where one can happily lose hours simply strolling without a particular destination, absorbing the natural beauty and calm.

The Gothenburg to Oslo leg of the journey unfurls as a truly cinematic climax. The landscape outside the window transforms with every passing minute, beginning with rolling green pastures where cows graze peacefully on riverbanks, giving way to forests thick with towering conifers beneath a vast, blue summer sky. Then, nature truly begins to show off its grandeur. Lakes widen into shimmering expanses, the trees grow an even more vibrant green, and majestic granite canyons appear, their imposing forms growing grander with every kilometre. This dramatic scenery captivates everyone on board, drawing excited children to press their noses against the windows, their gasps of wonder echoing the silent awe of the adults. The journey seamlessly transitions across the border into Norway, marked by subtle shifts in the architecture and the increasing prominence of rugged, glacial landscapes, culminating in a spectacular approach to the Norwegian capital.

Upon arrival in Oslo, eager to experience its renowned blend of urbanity and nature, I quickly drop my bags at Citybox, a minimalist yet comfortable hotel located just a few minutes’ walk from the station. My first destination is Sognsvann, a serene lake and expansive recreational area nestled on the outskirts of the city, serving as the perfect starting point for a circular walk up to Vettakollen, a highly popular viewpoint. After an easy, invigorating 30-minute uphill hike, I reach a rocky mound skirted by fragrant pine trees, where families are picnicking, their laughter mingling with the gentle breeze. From this vantage point, Oslo unfurls in the distance, a sprawling tapestry of modern metal and glass structures stretching gracefully towards the deep blue embrace of the fjord. For me, this breathtaking panorama encapsulates the very essence of Scandinavia: the seamless, almost effortless collision of the urban and the natural worlds, a harmony that defines its unique allure and offers an unparalleled quality of life.

The trip was thoughtfully provided by Visit Sweden, showcasing the exceptional beauty and accessibility of the region. One-way tickets from Malmö to Oslo with Snälltåget offer incredible value, starting from 149 Swedish kronor (approximately £11). For accommodations, double rooms at the distinctive Hotell Gästis in Varberg start from £90, while the chic Hotel Pigalle in Gothenburg offers doubles from £85. In Oslo, single rooms at the conveniently located Citybox Oslo are available from £68, providing comfortable and stylish bases from which to explore these captivating Scandinavian destinations.