A family adventure in Romania’s wild, unspoiled Gurghiu mountains

As the sun dips below the majestic, ancient tree line of the Gurghiu Mountains, painting the sky in hues of orange and deep purple, our campfire crackles with a primal rhythm. The air, crisp and clean at 1,550 metres above sea level, carries the faint scent of pine and woodsmoke. Four plump trout, freshly caught from a pristine mountain stream, sizzle enticingly on a flame-heated slab of rock – a time-honoured culinary tradition passed down through generations of people in this remote corner of Transylvania’s Eastern Carpathians. Beyond the gentle, twilight birdsong and the comforting hiss of our dinner, a profound silence reigns, a stark contrast to the clamour of any distant town or village.

This is the heart of Romania’s wild frontier, a place where nature still dictates the pace of life. "This area is very wild," affirms Samir Teslovan, our guide and host, his voice resonating with a deep reverence for his homeland. Samir, who expertly navigated us through the densely forested peaks from his guesthouse in Toplița, speaks of the mountains as a sanctuary. "When I come here to the mountains, I charge my battery, charge my soul. I feel free, like the wind." His sentiment encapsulates the allure of the Eastern Carpathians – a region often overlooked, yet teeming with untamed beauty and a powerful sense of liberation.

We are perched on the edge of a fragrant, ancient forest, a rich tapestry of spruce, fir, beech, and pine. The panoramic view unfurls before us, a breathtaking vista of valleys that plunge into shadowy depths, and misty mountains receding in countless layers to the distant horizon. Samir gestures towards a far-off peak in the east, a rugged pyramid on a ragged ridge. "That’s Ukraine, maybe 200km," he informs us, underscoring the region’s strategic position at the crossroads of Eastern Europe. Then, sweeping his hand westward: "That way, 400km, is Hungary." This geographical proximity hints at the complex history and diverse cultural influences that have shaped Transylvania. The forest itself is a vibrant, living ecosystem, still home to Europe’s largest populations of brown bears, along with elusive wolves and lynx. Yet, for Samir, it is the profound solitude that draws him back time and again. "I prefer wild zones, where no one goes," he muses. "There are places here that nobody knows."

Indeed, across the vast, undulating forests and formidable mountains of Harghita County in central Romania, countless such unknown places exist. This entire region, often referred to as the "Heart of Transylvania," has largely flown under the radar of international travellers. A staggering 85% of its visitors are domestic tourists, a statistic that feels utterly bizarre when one begins to uncover the myriad wonders hidden here, as our family did on a memorable 12-day road trip. Opting for the charm and flexibility of self-catering lodges and cabins, we immersed ourselves in an authentic adventure that felt worlds away from typical tourist trails.

One of Harghita’s most compelling attractions is its remarkable affordability. A holiday here costs a mere fraction of what one would expect to pay in the more frequented Dolomites or the celebrated French or Swiss Alps. Even more appealing, it remains refreshingly uncrowded, allowing for a deeply authentic and personal connection with the landscape and its people. This lack of mass tourism not only preserves the region’s pristine natural environment but also fosters a genuine sense of discovery for those who venture here.

The historical tapestry of Harghita is as rich and intricate as its landscapes. The region, like much of Transylvania, once belonged to the sprawling Austro-Hungarian Empire. Following the tumultuous aftermath of the First World War and the Treaty of Trianon in 1920, Transylvania, including Harghita, was officially awarded to Romania. Despite this political shift, the local population in Harghita remains predominantly of Hungarian descent, with approximately 85% identifying as Székelys (Szeklers). The Székelys are a distinct, Hungarian-speaking cultural group with a proud history and unique traditions, believed by many historians to be a Hungarian ethnic subgroup guarding the eastern borders of the historical Kingdom of Hungary. Their enduring presence is evident in every facet of life, from the culinary delights – hearty goulash and the irresistible, sweet kürtőskalács (chimney cakes) – to the distinctive, ornately carved székelykapu (wooden gates) that adorn the entrances of many homes, serving as powerful symbols of identity and heritage. These magnificent gates, often featuring intricate geometric patterns, sun and moon motifs, and symbolic animals, are a testament to centuries of fine craftsmanship and cultural pride.

Our journey began with the collection of a hire car in Brașov, a picturesque city often considered the gateway to Transylvania. Deliberately heading north, away from the well-trodden paths leading to Bran Castle and its associated vampiric folklore, we quickly found ourselves enveloped by wide, open countryside. The roads, refreshingly free of heavy traffic, were often shared with local farmers guiding their horse-drawn carts, a charming glimpse into a slower way of life. We passed countless churches, their silvery spires glinting in the sun, many topped with the tell-tale nests of white storks – migratory birds that are a beloved symbol of spring and good fortune in rural Romania.

Our first base was Sâncrăieni, where we settled into Organicle Lodge, a wonderfully quiet and inviting cabin. The lodge, a testament to rustic charm, featured an upstairs spruce bedroom that exuded natural warmth, complemented by a spacious lounge and a fully equipped kitchen. It quickly became a home away from home. Our four-year-old son reveled in the freedom of the garden, chasing after the owners’ friendly cats and a playful French bulldog, while we found solace on our wooden deck. With a local Harghita beer in hand, we gazed out over a serene paddock where a brown horse and a white pony gamboled and grazed, their forms silhouetted against the backdrop of the majestic Harghita Mountains. As dusk descended, the skies transformed into a canvas of soft pinks, traversed by the graceful arcs of swifts and the majestic glide of white storks, their presence a soothing balm to the soul.

From Sâncrăieni, we ventured to the nearby Lacul Sfânta Ana (Saint Anne Lake), a geological marvel as Romania’s only volcanic lake. Our exploration began with a walk through the enchanting Mohoș Peat Bog, a unique ecosystem where the stunted trees and curious, carnivorous plant life (including sundew) transported us back to a prehistoric, Ice Age-like landscape. This highly acidic environment is a living laboratory, preserving millennia of ecological history. Later, we took a tranquil boat trip on the sparkling lake, its pristine waters reflecting the myriad shades of forest green that encircled it. In the evening, an unforgettable experience awaited us at the Medveles Székelyföld observatory. Here, from the safety of a specially constructed hide, we watched in awe as four magnificent brown bears emerged from the dense forest, drawn by corn laid out for them. Harghita County boasts one of the highest bear population densities in Europe, a testament to its vast, undisturbed forests. While the observatory offered a guaranteed sighting, the most thrilling encounter of our trip came unexpectedly during our drive to the lake, when we spotted a mother bear and her cub ambling gracefully through the forest, pausing by the roadside to sniff the air – a poignant reminder of the wildness that permeates this land.

Continuing our northward trajectory, we spent a couple of days at Vila Adela, nestled near Lacu Roșu (Red Lake). This charming orange house, adorned with vibrant red geraniums, was a whimsical paradise for children, with its garden featuring fairy houses, miniature windmills, playful animal statues, a see-saw, and a slide. Our bedroom offered a breathtaking view of the majestic limestone massif Suhardul Mic, its craggy peaks piercing the sky.

A highlight of our journey was the drive through Bicaz Gorge, a spectacular natural wonder carved by the Bicaz River. We craned our necks, gazing up at massive rock walls and imposing geological structures, dominated by the colossal Piatra Altarului (Altar Rock), its summit marked by a solitary metal cross. This dramatic gorge, part of the Cheile Bicazului-Hășmaș National Park, is a mecca for climbers and a testament to the raw power of nature. En route, we made a stop to climb the tower of the medieval manor house Lázár Castle, a beautifully preserved example of Transylvanian Renaissance architecture with a rich history tied to local Szekler nobility. Our journey culminated in Toplița, at the far north of the county, where we stayed at Casa Samir, the guesthouse run by Samir Teslovan and his son David, who specialize in immersive wildlife photography and nature tours.

One afternoon, after a steep and bumpy drive that truly took us off the beaten path, we embarked on a hike deep into the serene Gurghiu Mountains. Golden sunlight filtered through the ancient trees, dappling the forest floor as David, with his keen eye, pointed out the fresh tracks of wild animals – deer, wild boar, and perhaps even a bear. We walked to a secluded clearing where Samir had already prepared a roaring campfire. Alongside the sizzling trout, he served us a homemade, salty sheep’s cheese, known as burduf, traditionally prepared in fir bark, and succulent lamb sausage, both sourced directly from his family farm. The meal was accompanied by a bottle of palinka, a warming plum brandy, a staple of Hungarian hospitality. "I’ve been coming here all my life," Samir shared, his gaze sweeping over the familiar landscape. "My grandfather and great-grandfather came here. I listen to the silence and the sounds of the forest, the birds and wild animals." It was a moment of profound connection, tasting the land’s bounty, sharing stories under a star-dusted sky.

Looping back around through the county, our journey included one final stop at Turul Guesthouse, a collection of neat, two-storey wooden lodges, each boasting its own hot tub, and a large trampoline for the kids. Here, we explored Mini Transylvania Park, a fascinating attraction featuring detailed models of Transylvanian castles, palaces, and churches, including a miniature Bran Castle. Adjacent to it, Insect Park delighted us with its large-scale, moving models of ants, butterflies, and other insects, offering an educational and engaging experience for all ages.

One crisp morning, we embarked on a challenging hike up to the summit of Harghita Mădăraș, at 1,801m (5,909ft), the highest peak in the Harghita Mountains. As we ascended, the weather shifted dramatically. Thunder rumbled ominously, and a sudden downpour drenched us as we reached the summit. The reportedly magnificent panoramic views were entirely obscured by thick cloud, which lent a sombre, almost funereal atmosphere to the cluster of cairns, Székely flags (emblazoned with gold, white, and blue), crosses, and other memorials that adorned the peak – a poignant tribute to those who cherish this land.

Our pursuit of wildlife continued at a tucked-away forest hide outside the Băile Homorod resort, where we were once again privileged to observe bears. This time, the drama unfolded as two mighty female bears, their powerful forms testament to their wild existence, seemed poised to clash over the feeding area, their cautious movements and wary glances a captivating display of natural hierarchy. We spent one of our last afternoons on the tranquil waters of Zetea Lake, where we rented a kayak. "It’s really a beautiful experience to be on the water," explained Előd Tímár, co-owner of KayaKing, our rental provider. "Bears sometimes come to drink on the shore."

Paddling south towards a densely forested peninsula, we were completely enveloped by the serene beauty of the lake, surrounded on all sides by swaying trees that mirrored perfectly on the calm surface. We paused in the vast expanse of open water, putting down our paddles to simply float and drift for a while. And there it was again, that glorious, battery-charging feeling – a profound sense of peace, an intimate connection with nature, and the exhilarating sensation of being truly free, like the wind. Harghita, with its wild heart and warm embrace, offers not just a holiday, but a journey into the soul of Transylvania, an authentic adventure waiting to be discovered by those seeking solace and wonder off the beaten path.

The trip was thoughtfully provided by Visit Harghita. Graeme’s accommodation included Organicle Lodge (from £75 a night), Vila Adela (£50), Casa Samir (£43 B&B, offering mountain adventures from £94 per person), and Turul Guesthouse (£87). Wildlife experiences included bear-watching at Medveles Székelyföld (£35pp) and at Băile Homorod (£25pp). Kayaking with KayaKing was available from £6.50 per hour. A 12-day car hire with Europcar Romania costs from £325, providing the freedom to explore this captivating region at one’s own pace.