Away with the ferries: exploring Switzerland’s forgotten lake district by boat

Upon disembarking at the island’s quaint jetty, a figure emerges, embodying the very spirit of this region: Max Frey. More than just a boatman, Max is a dedicated historian and an impassioned guide, a true custodian of local lore and natural heritage. He greets visitors with an infectious enthusiasm, a satchel full of historical documents and maps at the ready, eager to share the untold stories of this idyllic nook. His excitement is palpable, stemming from a desire to reveal the understated beauty of the Jura and Three Lakes region, an area that, despite its captivating allure, frequently escapes the attention of international travelers drawn to the more conventional Swiss tourist trails. This relative obscurity, however, is precisely what preserves its authentic charm and makes a visit here feel like discovering a well-kept secret.

"Welcome to paradise," Max declares, his voice cutting through the rhythmic thrum of the ferry engine, a phrase that resonates with the deep sense of peace the island exudes. He attributes this sentiment to none other than Jean-Jacques Rousseau, the influential philosopher, writer, and composer, who found solace here in 1765. Rousseau, perpetually restless and often exiled from various European cities, spent six transformative weeks on St. Peter’s Island, later reflecting on this period as among the happiest of his life. His experiences here, steeped in introspection and communion with nature, profoundly influenced his later work, particularly his "Reveries of the Solitary Walker," where he celebrated the therapeutic power of natural landscapes and the joys of unadulterated existence. The island, then, is not merely a geographical feature but a philosophical landmark.

St. Peter’s Island, though now technically a peninsula due to a mid-19th-century lake level reduction that created a land bridge to the mainland, retains its insular charm. It is still predominantly accessed and best experienced by boat, enhancing its sense of detachment and preserving its car-free tranquility. Bathed in the soft, golden light of late afternoon, with silver zander fish ghosting through the crystal-clear waters, the island undeniably feels heavenly. Rousseau was far from the only luminary to fall under its spell. Max proudly recounts other distinguished visitors: "Alexandre Dumas and Goethe stayed, too," he shares, highlighting the island’s enduring appeal to literary and intellectual giants. Dumas, known for his adventurous novels, likely found inspiration in its serene isolation, while Goethe, a polymath, would have appreciated its natural splendor. Even the illustrious Joséphine Bonaparte, Napoleon’s first wife, graced its shores. Her arrival, Max notes with a twinkle in his eye, was a spectacle of its own, with over a thousand boats reportedly sailing onto the lake to catch a glimpse of the empress, turning a peaceful retreat into a momentary stage for European high society.

This enchanting region is defined by the gentle, verdant slopes of the Jura Mountains, a striking contrast to the dramatic, jagged peaks of the High Alps, offering a landscape of accessible beauty. At its heart lie three magnificent glacial-blue lakes: Biel, Neuchâtel, and Murten. These aquatic jewels are intricately linked by the picturesque Zihl and Broye canals, forming a navigable network that allows for seamless ferry travel. This interconnectedness presents a compelling alternative to the more popular island-hopping destinations of the Greek Isles or Croatian coastlines, but with a uniquely Swiss flavor – complete with superior cheese, of course, and an exceptional, if less known, wine culture. The lakesides are meticulously fringed by tidy vineyards, and the charming small towns scattered along their shores – such as Ligerz, La Neuveville, Le Landeron, and Erlach – are home to dozens of understated, family-run wine cellars, each offering a taste of the local terroir.

The journey described here is a three-day, self-guided ferry-hopping adventure, commencing in Biel and culminating in Murten, weaving together activities like invigorating hikes, refreshing swims, peaceful birdwatching, and delightful wine tastings. This itinerary unveils a wholly different facet of Switzerland, one that eschews the grandeur and expense often associated with the country. Instead, it embraces a philosophy of "low on pomp, lower on price, but high on novelty," offering an authentic, unhurried immersion into Swiss life and nature that feels both fresh and deeply rewarding. It’s a testament to the fact that Switzerland’s allure extends far beyond its iconic Alpine postcard images.

The ferry ride to St. Peter’s Island is a brief but scenic affair, taking only 15 minutes from the mainland towns of La Neuveville or Ligerz, or a more leisurely 55 minutes from Biel, the starting point of this particular expedition. Max and the narrator find themselves almost alone on the island, enhancing the sense of discovery and intimacy. Winding paths slalom gracefully through ancient chestnut trees, leading to secluded, empty coves where the only sounds are the gentle lapping of waves and the rustling of leaves. Butterflies flit lazily through the air, their delicate wings adding splashes of color to the vibrant greenery. A local farmer cycles past, heading to tend his Angus herd, which grazes peacefully beside swans gliding on the shore and the hidden calls of reed-bed warblers. An information panel provides a glimpse into the island’s layered past, revealing that it was once inhabited by Romans, whose presence left subtle archaeological traces, before becoming home to Benedictine monks. The panel humorously alludes to local legends, suggesting that these monks, with their free rein on the island, were known to "lure in the most beautiful girls from around the lake," an anecdote that adds a touch of playful folklore to its monastic history.

Exploring the western side of the island on foot, the landscape transitions from dense forests and sandy coves to meticulously cultivated vineyards as one crosses to the eastern expanse. The night’s accommodation awaits at the historic Hotel St. Petersinsel, a remarkable establishment housed within a beautifully preserved monastery dating back to 1127. This architectural marvel boasts a charming restaurant courtyard, ancient sarcophagi, Roman-era columns seamlessly integrated into its structure, and a museum-piece bedroom famously occupied by Rousseau himself. As dusk paints the sky with hues of orange and purple, the narrator dines in solitary splendor on a perfectly cooked zander, accompanied by a zesty lemon risotto and sweet summer tomatoes paired with creamy burrata from nearby Fribourg, all complemented by a crisp, local wine. The tranquility of the evening, steeped in history and natural beauty, is profound.

The following morning dawns with a refreshing dip by the jetty, the only companions a family of ducks observing from the sand and a heron flapping majestically overhead. The Three Lakes region is replete with easily accessible swimming spots and pristine beaches, yet maintains an uncrowded serenity that is rare in popular destinations. Post-swim, a ferry journey leads to Ligerz, a picturesque wine village situated halfway along Lake Biel’s northern banks, precisely on the Franco-German linguistic border. This strategic location has historically imbued the village with a rich bicultural heritage, reflected in its architecture, cuisine, and local dialect.

Ligerz, whose name is believed to originate from an ancient Roman settler named Ligerius, truly lives up to its reputation as a village overflowing with grapes and bacchanalian bliss. Nearly every house boasts its own vineyard plot, the vines cascading down towards the shimmering lake, creating a breathtaking tableau of green terraces. This setting is particularly inviting around lunchtime, especially after an invigorating hike around the exquisitely charming St. Michael’s Chapel, a historic landmark that beckons exploration and undoubtedly works up a thirst for the local vintage.

The experience of wine drinking in Switzerland, while immensely rewarding, comes with its unique challenges. A significant portion of the country’s wine production is consumed domestically, with very little exported. This, coupled with Switzerland’s general cost of living, makes Swiss wines relatively pricier compared to their German or Italian counterparts. However, the experience at Andrey Schafis, a fifth-generation family cellar perched majestically overlooking the water, is an absolute delight. Here, patrons on the restaurant terrace can savor chilled, lemony Chasselas – a quintessential Swiss white grape variety – for a modest 15 Swiss francs (approximately £13.50) a bottle, accompanied by delectable charcuterie and artisanal cheese platters. The atmosphere is distinctly relaxed and sophisticated, evoking a sensation less of the rugged Alps and more of the sun-drenched Amalfi Coast, a fusion of Swiss precision and Mediterranean languor.

"Almost everything we make is drunk here," explains Arielle Andrey, a member of the family, as she uncorks a fresh bottle, a warm smile gracing her lips. A pleasant conversation ensues over a glass of their exquisite wine before Arielle gracefully excuses herself, disappearing into the rustic, wood-beamed cellar to procure more fresh-baked bread, an assortment of local cheeses, and another bottle of their prized vintage. The familial warmth and dedication to their craft are palpable, making the visit a truly personal and memorable encounter.

With a newfound spring in their step, the narrator embarks on the village’s unique Vinifuni, a short but remarkably steep funicular railway that ascends directly through the terraced vineyards. This engineering marvel delivers passengers through a dramatic cleft in the limestone, depositing them onto the Tessenberg plateau and into the petite village of Prêles, nestled in the shadow of Chasseral, the Jura’s highest and most prominent mountain. Chasseral, standing at 1,607 meters (5,272 feet), is not flat-topped as often described, but rather a long, undulating ridge, offering some of the most dazzling panoramic views in the region. From this vantage point, the fields below spread out like a gigantic eiderdown, a luxurious tapestry of gold and green, meticulously stitched around the three enormous patches of glacial blue that are the lakes of Biel, Neuchâtel, and Murten. On a clear day, the vista extends to the distant, snow-capped peaks of the High Alps, creating a breathtaking contrast of landscapes.

The journey continues along a lonely, winding path that leads to the highest point of Chasseral, traversing a serene forest of fragrant pine trees. Upon reaching the summit, the narrator pauses at an observation deck, standing beneath a towering 120-meter telecommunications mast. This structure, with its exposed platforms, intricate gantries, and array of satellites, presents a starkly futuristic contrast to the ancient natural beauty, reminiscent of a rocket launch pad poised for cosmic exploration. From this commanding height, the descent begins, a zigzagging path leading to the quietly unassuming village of Nods, as sleepy and tranquil as its name suggests. A short bus ride then transports the narrator back to Prêles and the family-run Hôtel de l’Ours Prêles, a charming establishment perched high above the lake. While it may not boast the celebrity status of some Alpine resorts, its genuine warmth and hospitality quickly elevate it to a personal favorite, largely due to its delightful hosts, Mélanie and Marcello Pigozzo. Marcello, with his cheerful demeanor, promptly delivers a cold BLZ beer from the nearby Orvin brewery, a local craft brew that perfectly complements the rustic setting. Mélanie, with equal grace, serves a succulent entrecôte steak and a decadent portion of profiteroles on the terrace, the meal exquisitely soundtracked by the rhythmic clang of cowbells from the contented cattle grazing in the adjacent field, a quintessential Swiss experience.

On the final morning, the journey concludes with one last, unforgettable boat ride: a three-hour expedition that seamlessly connects the three lakes. Starting on Lake Biel, the ferry glides into the tranquil Zihl canal, a man-made waterway that elegantly links to the expansive Lake Neuchâtel. From there, it transitions into the picturesque Broye canal, leading finally to Lake Murten and its crowning jewel, the remarkably preserved lakeside fortress town of Murten. The ferry putters gently past radiant fields of sunflowers, their golden heads tracking the sun, and meticulously cultivated fruit crops that thrive in the fertile lakeside soil. The canal verges are a tapestry of outdoor life, dotted with inviting campsites, well-maintained cycle paths, and crucial bird reserves. Among these is La Grande Cariçaie, Switzerland’s largest marshland and a wetland of international importance. This ecological marvel is a haven for diverse birdlife, including various species of grebes, cormorants, and numerous warblers, making it a prime spot for birdwatching and nature photography.

The medieval town of Murten itself is a veritable time capsule. Its imposing church spires pierce the vivid blue sky, while swifts dart and nest in its ancient towers. The town’s remarkably well-preserved battlements offer a unique opportunity for visitors to patrol its walls, providing a "Mary Poppins view" over a charming labyrinth of old rooftops, stone chimneys, and cobblestone alleys. Beyond the ramparts, under a hazy, distant horizon, vineyards gather on the rolling hills, a testament to the region’s rich viticultural heritage. As the narrator watches the ferry depart on its return journey to Biel, a sense of profound tranquility settles. The boat’s horn blows, a heron takes graceful flight, and a dozing fisher on the jetty stirs from his slumber. This journey through the Jura and Three Lakes region is a poignant reminder that a different Switzerland truly exists – a Switzerland less traveled, less hurried, and deeply authentic. To discover it, one simply needs to embrace the slow boat, allowing the landscapes and stories to unfold at their own gentle pace.

Practical Information for Your Journey:

This enriching trip was generously provided by Jura & Trois Lacs (j3l.ch/en/), with additional support from Switzerland Tourism (myswitzerland.com/en-gb/), both committed to promoting sustainable and authentic travel experiences in this unique region.

• Accommodation:

  • Hotel St. Petersinsel (st-petersinsel.ch/en/): Doubles are available from £128 on a bed-and-breakfast basis. This historic monastery offers a unique stay steeped in history and natural beauty.
  • Hôtel de l’Ours Prêles (alours.ch/): Doubles start from £175, including breakfast. This family-run hotel provides warm hospitality and stunning views from the Tessenberg plateau.

• Transportation:

  

  • Swiss Travel Pass (swissrailways.com/en/buy-swiss-travel-pass): A highly recommended option for seamless exploration. A three-day pass, covering all public transport including trains, buses, and the scenic lake ferries, costs approximately £238. This pass offers exceptional value and convenience for navigating the interconnected lakes and charming towns of the region.

• Local Experiences:

  • Andrey Schafis (andreyschafis.ch/): Discover this fifth-generation family cellar in Ligerz for an authentic Swiss wine-tasting experience.
  • Vinifuni (asmobil.ch/de/oeffentlicher-verkehr/mobilitaet/vinifuni.html): Take the short, steep funicular through the vineyards of Ligerz up to the Tessenberg plateau for breathtaking panoramic views.
  • La Grande Cariçaie (grande-caricaie.ch/): Explore Switzerland’s largest marshland, a vital nature reserve perfect for birdwatching and immersing yourself in diverse ecosystems.