Going for gold: an early autumn road trip across Finland’s sparkling lake district

Our adventure began as a mid-September road trip from Helsinki, charting a course eastward towards the vast, shimmering expanse of Lake Saimaa. The primary goal of our expedition was to witness ruska, the spectacular, fleeting display of autumn colours that paints the Finnish landscape in fiery hues for just a few precious weeks before the long, dark winter descends. However, our initial drive from Helsinki-Vantaa Airport to the Radalla resort, gracefully positioned on the shores of Lake Urajärvi, presented a landscape still stubbornly green. Thousands of trees lined the roads, their leaves a vibrant emerald, with only the very tips beginning to blush with a subtle auburn, a delicate, almost hesitant foliage balayage that hinted at the spectacle yet to come. It felt as if nature was still holding its breath, clinging to the last vestiges of summer.

“You’re too early,” the waitress informed us with a cheerful smile at Radalla, as we settled into our chic, modern waterfront cabins and devoured generous plates of crispy garlic chicken adorned with freshly picked chanterelles in the resort’s inviting dining room. Her words, though direct, were delivered with an inherent Finnish warmth. “But you might get some sun tomorrow.” Later, as we navigated our way back to our cabins through a persistent, thick drizzle that mirrored the nascent ruska, we exchanged glances, silently agreeing that her optimistic forecast was likely just a kind gesture.

The Radalla resort perfectly encapsulates the essence of southern Finland’s lakeside hospitality. It is one of dozens of such establishments, many of which offer a harmonious blend of self-catering cabins, rejuvenating sauna complexes, and gleaming metal steps that lead from rustic wooden piers directly into the invigorating, if chilly, waters of the lake. While the grey drizzle of the following morning made a lake dip less than appealing, it did not dampen our spirits. Instead, we decided to press on to our next destination, making a strategic detour to the Mustila Arboretum en route, before seeking out a suitable lunch spot.

Driving through southern Finland proved to be a uniquely serene experience, quite unlike the bustling highways of other European countries. The majority of settlements, rather than sprawling along major arteries, are discreetly tucked away down winding side roads, often fringing the numerous lakes. This means that for mile after mile, the dominant scenery consists of dense, unbroken stretches of forest – those same resolutely green trees that were yet to embrace their autumnal transformation. Gradually, imperceptibly, the fields gave way to the ubiquitous presence of water, as lake after lake began to appear, their blue-grey surfaces reflecting the shifting sky. The road, a slender ribbon of asphalt, snaked alongside these tranquil waters, occasionally stitching together the small, verdant islets that lay scattered across their vastness, creating a mesmerising panorama of land and water.

In our quest for a unique lunchtime experience, Sara’s online search unearthed the Ollinmäki winery, an unexpected and intriguing find in a country not traditionally associated with viticulture, given its northern climate. Finland, it turns out, compensates for its lack of grape-growing conditions with a thriving tradition of berry wines. Upon being seated, we were enthusiastically persuaded to embark on a flight of six different berry wines, a fascinating journey for the palate. These were expertly paired with a hearty bowl of rich elk soup – a dish that, despite its somewhat unappetising appearance, proved to be surprisingly delicious and warming – and a fresh leaf salad featuring locally sourced cheese. Among the diverse selection, the white currant and berry Myllärin Matti stood out, its crispness and tangy profile drawing an unexpected comparison to a fine Sauvignon Blanc. While the experience was undoubtedly memorable, I wisely refrained from contemplating the potential severity of a Finnish berry wine hangover.

From the winery, it was an effortless drive to Sahanlahti. By then, a remarkable transformation had occurred in the weather. The heavy clouds had dispersed, revealing pin-sharp blue skies that gleamed brilliantly above the shores of Lake Saimaa, casting a golden light over the landscape. The main house of the resort, painted a warm butterscotch-yellow, exuded a languidly old-fashioned charm. Dating back to the mid-18th century, it was once the heart of a bustling sawmill operation, its owners presiding over a crucial local industry. Despite this historical gravitas, dinner at the Koskivahti restaurant was anything but dated. The menu showcased modern Finnish cuisine with a focus on fresh, seasonal ingredients: a rich, earthy mushroom soup, delicate slivers of goose confit perfectly complemented by a tart lingonberry sauce, and wafer-thin beetroot carpaccio elevated by the creamy tang of local goat’s cheese. Each dish was a testament to the evolving culinary landscape of Finland, blending tradition with contemporary flair.

While we might have been slightly early for the full glory of the ruska, we had serendipitously arrived right in the midst of Finland’s vibrant harvest season. During this time, venturing out into the dense forests and myriad islands to forage for wild mushrooms and berries is not merely a pastime but a deeply ingrained national sport, enjoyed under the "Everyman’s Right" (Jokamiehenoikeus) – a unique legal concept allowing free access to natural areas. Finland boasts an astonishing diversity of berries, with some 35 different varieties flourishing in its wild landscapes. We had barely had time to unpack our bags at our final destination, the Järvisydän resort, before we found ourselves zipping across the pristine waters of Lake Saimaa on a small motorboat, wicker baskets tucked securely between our feet. Our mission: to hunt for golden chanterelles and, with a keen eye, spot the elusive Saimaa ringed seals and majestic ospreys that call this vast lake home.

The sky above was flawlessly blue, a perfect azure arching over the tranquil water as our boat cut a smooth path across the lake. We disembarked first to begin our mushroom hunt, eagerly scanning the green undergrowth for the tell-tale flashes of bright yellow that betrayed the presence of chanterelles. Guiding us through this ancient ritual of harvesting was Sebastian, the twelfth generation of the Heiskanen family to manage Järvisydän. He shared a captivating snippet of the resort’s rich history: “Back in 1654,” he recounted, his voice resonating with pride, “my family was granted a portion of this land by the Russian Tsar, with the specific instruction to establish a tavern along the vital trade route connecting St. Petersburg and Helsinki.” More than 350 years later, that humble tavern has evolved into a remarkable 100-room resort, a testament to enduring family legacy and innovative adaptation. Järvisydän now offers a diverse array of accommodations, from starkly modern, glass-walled cabins perched high in the forest canopy, offering panoramic views, to charming hexagonal log houses featuring bedrooms that radiate outwards from a central, fire-lit atrium, and even unique camping pods designed for a closer connection to nature.

Järvisydän is an extraordinary place, a harmonious blend of history, nature, and thoughtful design. Every element, from the vast reception area – dramatically dwarfed by a replica Viking longship hull suspended majestically above the check-in desk – to the various restaurants, the inviting bar, and the truly unique, Hobbit-like spa, is meticulously crafted entirely from locally sourced stone and timber. This commitment to indigenous materials not only creates a deeply authentic atmosphere but also reflects a strong Finnish ethos of sustainability and integration with the natural environment. A visit to the resort’s spa seemed the perfect antidote to the invigorating chill of our boat trip and mushroom foraging. The spa boasts six distinct saunas, each offering a different temperature and experience. The "sunken log" sauna, where temperatures soared to a formidable 70°C, provided a truly intense heat, giving me a vivid, if slightly exaggerated, sense of how an ice-cream might feel if left out in the sun on a sweltering day. This extreme heat, followed by the option of a cold plunge, perfectly embodies the traditional Finnish sauna experience, renowned for its health benefits and deep cultural significance.

Of the three exceptional resorts we had the pleasure of visiting, Järvisydän stood out as the undisputed highlight. Its rich, interwoven history, the spectacular, unspoiled scenery of Lake Saimaa that surrounds it, the exquisite, comforting mushroom soup served in its restaurant, and the long, sunlit walk we took on our final afternoon through the dense pine forest, where agile red squirrels skittered playfully in the branches above, all contributed to an unforgettable experience. It was a genuine wrench to depart on our last morning, but as we sped back along the quiet, tree-lined roads towards Helsinki, a sense of profound satisfaction settled upon us. We both agreed that Finland had, despite our initial "foliage fail" in finding the peak ruska, dramatically outstripped our expectations. It was more beautiful, more peaceful, and unexpectedly, more sunkissed than we could ever have imagined, leaving us with a lasting impression of its serene magic.

Ruska, the vibrant colours of autumn foliage, typically begins its spectacular display in the north of Finland in early to mid-September, gradually making its way south to reach the Lake Saimaa region by early October. For those planning a trip, timing is key to catching this breathtaking natural phenomenon.

Our memorable journey was generously provided by Discover the World. A four-night bespoke self-drive trip, including stays at the delightful Radalla, Sahanlahti, and Järvisydän resorts, starts at an approximate cost of £794 per person. This price typically includes bed and breakfast accommodation and car hire, but it is important to note that flights are not included. When planning such a trip, consider packing layers, waterproof gear, and comfortable walking shoes, regardless of the expected sunshine, to fully embrace Finland’s diverse autumn conditions and activities.