‘I came to the Highlands to give something back to the hills’: a volunteering trip in Scotland

This journey to Wester Ross wasn’t for a typical Scottish coastal retreat, despite the allure of nearby, famously gorgeous beaches like Achmelvich or Clachtoll. Instead, I arrived with a different kind of ambition: to contribute, however humbly, to the preservation of these magnificent hills. My purpose was tied to the Outdoor Access Trust for Scotland (OATS), a vital charitable organisation that acts as a custodian for many of the Highlands’ most iconic mountains. OATS is dedicated to the arduous, yet essential, work of developing, building, and repairing mountain paths and restoring crucial habitats. I had joined a diverse group of volunteers for a two-day commitment to Stac Pollaidh, arguably the north-west Highlands’ most visited peak, a popularity exacerbated by its proximity to the renowned North Coast 500 route. The prospect of a complimentary stay at the welcoming Ullapool youth hostel, the promise of a hearty home-cooked communal meal, and an auspiciously midge-free weather forecast had made the drive north from Edinburgh the previous night a buoyant, anticipation-filled experience.

OATS’s overarching mission is to foster sustainable public access to Scotland’s wild places. In an era where traditional funding streams are increasingly strained, this goal is largely achieved through "voluntourism" – a growing global trend that combines travel with meaningful volunteer work. Participants are engaged in hands-on tasks: lifting heavy stones, resurfacing worn pathways, and filling eroded sections, all contributing to landscape-scale results that would be impossible with a small, professional team alone. The sheer scale of the challenge is evident in the list of annual priorities, which includes traffic-heavy mountains like the majestic An Teallach, the revered Lochnagar, and the towering Braeriach. Beyond these individual peaks, OATS’s remit extends across a throng of glens and estates, from the dramatic Isle of Skye to the expansive Cairngorms National Park. The impact of environmental challenges is keenly felt; for instance, due to devastating summer fires, some planned events in the northern Cairngorms might face relocation or postponement, highlighting the vulnerability of these landscapes. OATS volunteers even routinely tackle sections of the Lairig Ghru, a legendary and arguably Britain’s most unforgiving mountain pass, a testament to the dedication required.

While the description might conjure images of relentless, back-breaking toil, the reality of voluntourism with OATS is far more multifaceted. It offers a unique blend of practical learning, environmental awareness, and profound personal reward. Volunteers aren’t merely manual labourers; they gain invaluable insights into mountain path design, the intricate dynamics of erosion, and the complex interplay of factors contributing to its acceleration. These factors primarily include human misuse – the sheer volume of foot traffic compacting soil and widening paths – and the increasingly severe and unpredictable weather patterns associated with climate change, leading to more intense rainfall and subsequent washout. The learning experience unfolds within some of Scotland’s most breathtaking natural amphitheatres, where panoramic views serve as a constant, awe-inspiring backdrop. Crucially, no prior experience in path building or conservation is required. The program is designed to be inclusive, welcoming individuals from all walks of life, though a reasonable level of physical fitness and comfort with spending extended periods outdoors, coupled with the ability to safely use hand tools, are essential prerequisites.

Our first morning began at Stac Pollaidh’s car park, a space that OATS itself had meticulously redeveloped two years prior to accommodate a fourfold increase in vehicles. This expansion underscores the mountain’s surging popularity, largely driven by its accessibility from the North Coast 500 – Scotland’s iconic coastal touring route, which sweeps past just five miles east, connecting Kylesku to Ullapool. Yet, despite the varied backgrounds, every volunteer shared a common motivation: a desire to give back. As we ascended the open moorland, the surrounding Assynt region unfolded below us, a mesmerising sea of lochans (small lochs) shimmering under the strengthening sun. To the north, Stac Pollaidh’s distinctive, porcupine-like ridge appeared even more inviting, silhouetted against a sky as brilliantly blue as a newborn’s eye.

From the rugged slopes below the hilltop down to the fringing forest’s edge, our collective effort transformed sections of the path. We meticulously unclogged ditches, freeing them from accumulated debris and invasive grasses that impede natural water flow. Dredging operations removed sediment, while careful soil stabilisation techniques were employed to prevent further slippage. Stone drains were expertly repacked, ensuring efficient water runoff and path longevity. Edges were replanted with native vegetation, a crucial step in preventing further erosion and integrating the path seamlessly back into the natural environment. All the while, the mountain remained a vibrant thoroughfare. Trail runners, enthusiastic dog walkers, and hikers from across Europe steadily weaved their way up the slopes, many pausing to inquire about our work, their curiosity piqued by our purposeful activity. A boisterous French school group trooped past, their faces painted blue in playful homage to Braveheart, adding a splash of unexpected colour to the scene. A kind Dutch couple offered a welcome respite in the form of biscuits, a small gesture of solidarity. Everyone, without exception, paused to absorb the utterly stunning views, particularly of the majestic, sugar-loaf peak of Suilven dominating the northern horizon.

Our group of seven volunteers embodied a global spirit of conservation. It included two New Zealanders, three retirees hailing from Inverness, Stirling, and Forfar respectively, and an Edinburgh IT worker utilising his annual corporate volunteer days – a testament to the growing recognition by businesses of the value of environmental engagement. These diverse individuals, bound by a shared commitment, found common ground in the challenging yet rewarding work, appreciating the smiles and words of thanks from passing hikers.

To a casual observer, the intricate network of mountain paths crisscrossing the Highlands might seem like an immutable feature of the landscape, as if woven into its very DNA since time immemorial. However, as Eva Kupska, OATS’s dedicated volunteer coordinator, eloquently explained, these paths are "always evolving and always at risk from erosion, because of the influences of nature and man… and it is our job to conserve them." Her words underscore the dynamic vulnerability of these essential arteries of mountain access.

Indeed, every volunteer plays a critical role in this ongoing conservation battle. Kupska highlighted a significant challenge: post-Brexit, the cessation of crucial EU funding streams has created a drastic need for a new, robust public fund specifically dedicated to path maintenance and habitat restoration. The charity, despite its tireless efforts, simply lacks the manpower and financial resources to tackle the ever-deteriorating pathways or to undertake large-scale native tree planting initiatives alone. Adding another layer of complexity, some of the most popular and heavily used mountain paths traverse privately owned land, which often precludes access to any existing public funding, creating critical gaps in conservation efforts.

Looking ahead, OATS has scheduled a further 12 one-day events, alongside three- and five-day immersive maintenance and conservation experiences throughout the year. These include dedicated tree-planting trips, vital for rewilding and strengthening vulnerable ecosystems. The communal aspect of these events is a significant draw; it’s a joyful, shared experience. That first afternoon, amidst the scent of flowering heather and the earthy tang of the bogs, flasks of hot tea were unscrewed, and homemade fruit loaf was generously shared. These simple acts of camaraderie, combined with the profound satisfaction of time well spent in the wild, forged a unique bond among the volunteers.

That evening, back in the bustling harbour town of Ullapool, the air was alive with the sounds of tourists enjoying fish suppers, gulls circling above the returning trawlers, and the general hum of a thriving coastal community. In the sea-view kitchen of Ullapool youth hostel, our group gathered, sharing stories from our day on the mountain and snippets of our individual life journeys. While Ullapool boasts excellent dinner options, including the highly-rated The Seafood Shack and the acclaimed The Dipping Lugger, we opted for the warmth of each other’s company (which proved delightful), the comfort of local beers (a necessary indulgence after a day of physical exertion), and a giant, gurgling stockpot of Eva’s superb courgette and tomato risotto (which was terrific). Unsurprisingly, I slept exceptionally well that night, a deep, restorative slumber earned through honest labour.

The following day dawned with a gossamer mist clinging to the hills of Wester Ross, lending an ethereal quality to the landscape. We arrived earlier, picking up exactly where we had left off, our spirits undimmed. We worked largely without complaint as the sun slowly but surely broke through the clouds, gradually revealing the stunning panorama once more. But the greatest reward was the tangible progress we witnessed as we worked our way down the mountain, step by careful step. Always mindful of avoiding the fragile vegetation at the path’s edges, we meticulously reshaped and reinforced the trail, creating something demonstrably better and more sustainable for tomorrow’s generations of hikers. It was a staycation with a profound purpose – a truly enriching experience that resonated deeply and felt undeniably good.

The trip detailed in this article was generously provided by the Outdoor Access Trust for Scotland, with invaluable support from VisitScotland and Hostelling Scotland. To register as a volunteer and to sign up for upcoming events on their annual path maintenance days programme, interested individuals are encouraged to visit OATS’s dedicated volunteering portal. Participants should note that overnight accommodation in a youth hostel or a bothy, along with evening meals and transport to and from the restoration site, are typically included in these volunteer opportunities.